Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (1 Viewer)

[shocktower]

We’ll after finally letting it sink in that my trip to the Rocky’s would be cruiser less, I put it on the back burner. Finally got back on this horse.
View attachment 1761917 View attachment 1761918
At least the external flywheel pilot is long enough so a spacer and flex plate should be good.

My plan is a 4130 plate thickness TBD??? options .08” same as this original plate
.09”
.125”

Planning on some holes to allow better flex like every other flex plate in the world. Plate will be water jetted out to reduce any stresses. Thought about laser and having it machined. With out doing post anneling/normalizing water seems like best route.

That sucks, do you run the 343 ?

 

[cjmoon]

Man that thing is trashed. Did you ever hear back from Dustin?

Yes just that he doesn’t have the tooling, he didn’t answer any off set questions and spacing. But we’ve had heated words in the past so I can’t blame him. I’m going to start a thread documenting failure and my fix. I’m making 2 so I’ll have a fix if it happens to any one else.

That sucks, do you run the 343 ?

Yes the a343f. I have been playing with pretty early lockup 2-4th gears that could be a contributor to this failure. Not going my to push that anymore. I have a spare stock converter going to put it in without stall adjustment. Original is .08 going with .09 with releaf flex holes and spacers.

 

[shocktower]

Yes just that he doesn’t have the tooling, he didn’t answer any off set questions and spacing. But we’ve had heated words in the past so I can’t blame him. I’m going to start a thread documenting failure and my fix. I’m making 2 so I’ll have a fix if it happens to any one else.



Yes the a343f. I have been playing with pretty early lockup 2-4th gears that could be a contributor to this failure. Not going my to push that anymore. I have a spare stock converter going to put it in without stall adjustment. Original is .08 going with .09 with releaf flex holes and spacers.

I am running the 343 in my 5.9 cummins swapped cruiser, I have tried to break it, and nothing has yet, I have almost 30k miles on it, but I use the Dodge flex plate and a different stand alone . I helped tow a 10 wheeler out of some mud, I had put my tranny and everything else to a test hopping smoking all 4 tires and nothing broke .

 

[cjmoon]

Starting to reassemble... we’ll see how it goes.

 

[cjmoon]

After having to change my spacers around for crank bolt head to converter clearance it’s back together and driving.

A tip for any users out there with this style adaption cut the bottom of the adapter off as shown. It gives easier access to converter bolts and pan bolts if you ever want to pull the pan. I’ve done this for an engine refresh

And switch as many bolts to JIS style for the smaller hex flanged head design just easier to work with.

 

[cjmoon]

This heater core thing really makes me rethink Toyota owner ship... the first repair where I question what drug Toyota engineers where on. That’s why they are not avalible.... they’re totaled out for this repair. I’ve done this on old 90’s fords. A 20 min job, 5-10 fasteners.

On the plus side since I’m in this bleep adding remote start, touch screen stereo, and cleaning up wiring a lot with all the added assecories.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Good god

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I feel your pain. I did that job on mine and my 96 F350. 80 I think was a full weekend of labor spread over a week waiting part. It wasn’t the heater core itself but one of the pipes . I had ordered the core but chose to install anyway instead of returning it. Ford 30 minutes maybe 7 bolts/screws.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

One thing I wish I did was add more sound deadening high up on the firewall that you get to with the dash in.

 

[Dubbinchris]

My only relatable experience was the heater core in a VW Fox wagon. Everything down to the firewall needed to be removed. Now my first car, a 1980 mustang the heater core simply slid out through an access panel in the glove box. Pretty sure it took more time to get all the crap out of the glove box than it did to remove the heater core.

 

[turbophil]

ya'll sure there isn't a modular way to pull the dash out of it? Pretty much every assembly line vehicle since the 70s has a modular dash. Now the trick to most of these cars is know how the assembly line installed the dash assembly. A friend here at the shop found on a car he was working on that the heater core was a 6 hour job or 16 hour job--- depending on if you pulled the dash out in the opposite way it was installed or took it apart piece by piece...

I dunno on the 80, but surely it was not assembled in the cabin one piece at a time, but rather as a largely preassembled piece????

 

[2fpower]

I just pulled one out too Phil, and I don’t know how it could be modular. Plus, Jess is a pretty smart banana....

 

[cjmoon]

Possibility with the glass out and special tools, maybe but every step had hidden fasteners behind each peice. I’m sure I’ll notice different things putting it back together that could have made it slightly easier. Maybe a little different method to save minutes. but I’m not seeing it. All along the way I spent to much time trying to evaluate which prolonged the enevitable explosion of pieces. As many of these projects go I’ll find a more efficient way of putting it back together where less parts and less screws are used....