Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ

[69rambler]

Are you mating the engine and transmission outside the vehicle like the FSM says? It's good practice to start all 6 converter bolts first before tightening any of them then go around and tighten all of them- Just like any other auto application.

The first time I did the converter bolts it took a minute to figure out what tools were able to get a straight shot on starting the converter bolts. A short socket with an extension work pretty good. A deep well socket or swivel socket will probably hold the bolt cocked.

 

[cjmoon]

Are you mating the engine and transmission outside the vehicle like the FSM says? It's good practice to start all 6 converter bolts first before tightening any of them then go around and tighten all of them- Just like any other auto application.

The first time I did the converter bolts it took a minute to figure out what tools were able to get a straight shot on starting the converter bolts. A short socket with an extension work pretty good. A deep well socket or swivel socket will probably hold the bolt cocked.

i'm mating the two in the vehicle. lots of room with the short 4 cylinder probably not as easy with the 6bt.

but the FSM also states use the green bolt first and the only way that it would do anything different was if you at least snugged it up, with the shoulder that I suppose is to help center the flex plat on the convert bolt pattern.

as you stated the only way we have found that works is loose installation and then torque on the second rounds as you mentioned. once I did that it only took 20 min. you live and learn not to follow the FSM...all the time that is

 

[2fpower]

Excited to see you making progress again. Keep the updates coming.

 

[cjmoon]

Got the motor mounts in and the engine supporting itself so I could set my lower coilover mount. It sits on the tires now. The coils are pre loaded about 2 inches so it could be lowered a little once everything gets assembled and see where it settles.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You have a three link in that thing too? Sweet!

 

[js93cruiser]

You have a three link in that thing too? Sweet!

I see radius arms

 

[cjmoon]

yep stock radius arm for now with 10" travel coilovers. basically stock travel. will end up with three link at some point but focused on the diesel conversion for now and needed a lift as part of that. no point in cutting corners on the lift. i have had coilovers before and fell in love. almost put them on my 2wd with no plans of desert racing.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I didn't even look to the links. I didn't realize that it was a thing for people to install coilovers with the stock radius arms.

Either way, cool!

 

[js93cruiser]

I wish I had a cummins in my cruiser :-( I'm uber jealous, keep up the good work can't wait to see it done!!!!

 

[Douglas S]

I'm really curious to see what you think about the coilovers with the stock arms. I've been thinking about it for a while, would offer a lot of tunability over the stock setup. What did you do for bumpstops?

 

[cjmoon]

I'm really curious to see what you think about the coilovers with the stock arms. I've been thinking about it for a while, would offer a lot of tunability over the stock setup. What did you do for bumpstops?

don't have bumps on it yet. I have a set of the daystar long bump stops that I will put on for the time being at some point or extend the original with some new brackets. Would love to put air bumps at some point probably if i three link it where I can utilize travel.

it will be interesting to see how the coilovers are to start. i bought them used and rebuilt. they have flutter stack valving in them, so someone spent some time.

 

[69rambler]

i'm mating the two in the vehicle. lots of room with the short 4 cylinder probably not as easy with the 6bt.

but the FSM also states use the green bolt first and the only way that it would do anything different was if you at least snugged it up, with the shoulder that I suppose is to help center the flex plat on the convert bolt pattern.

as you stated the only way we have found that works is loose installation and then torque on the second rounds as you mentioned. once I did that it only took 20 min. you live and learn not to follow the FSM...all the time that is

These adapters were used first with 4BT's and then 6BT's. I've mated engine and tranny in the vehicle and on the ground and on the ground is a lot simpler.

If you pull the engine and trans together you can flop the entire wiring harness on the engine and remove all of it in one neat package. Do the necessary mods then drop everything back in.

I don't know if you got any advice about the turbo placement when you ordered the kit through Jonesy's, but the turbo outlet is in a poor place bolted to the stock low rear 4BT manifold. I found a 3.5" spacer fabbed from two T3 flanges works well with a commonrail turbo drain tube. This puts the turbo in a nice place for the exhaust to exit.

The last 4BT 80 I did I retained the exhaust muffler-back and ran 2.5" from the turbo to the muffler inside the frame rail and it's worked great. The engine's around 180 HP it goes great and doesn't seem to mind the 2.5" at all. The stock muffler is nice and quiet too.

 

[cjmoon]

That's some good advise on the turbo placement. I hadn't thought about moving the turbo down an keeping the stock rear low exit. I bought some flanges and was going to play with flipping the manifold for a front too exit and turning it out 90-120 deg for a high mount. Need to get the accessories bolted in to see where everything lines up to start. I like the idea o a high mount so there is room below if I ever wanted to compound. Probably not likely though. The hx30 will be plenty of power without overdoing the tranny

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I don't know if you got any advice about the turbo placement when you ordered the kit through Jonesy's, but the turbo outlet is in a poor place bolted to the stock low rear 4BT manifold. I found a 3.5" spacer fabbed from two T3 flanges works well with a commonrail turbo drain tube. This puts the turbo in a nice place for the exhaust to exit.

I did not consider that either, good idea. I cut my firewall to clearance the turbo downpipe, but didn't have to modify that much, fortunately.

 

[CRZR45]

Or take a 6 BT manifold and cut both end exhaust ports off and weld a plug in each this will center your turbo on the block and give you clearance for the down pipe in 3"...

 

[CRZR45]

Here are pics of mine..

 

[cjmoon]

Or take a 6 BT manifold and cut both end exhaust ports off and weld a plug in each this will center your turbo on the block and give you clearance for the down pipe in 3"...

I have a 6bt that is cut also so I will be checking that too. My HX30 has the longer turbine output. So it is about 2" closer to the firewall.

Is our 3" in the frame rail? I have a down pipe back 3" over the frame rail set up that I made so I only needed to make a down pipe to connect but I am thinking I am going to try in the frame. I have a 1 3/8" body lift which adds some space

 

[CRZR45]

Over the frame rail and out rear bumper thru custom hole....

 

[CRZR45]

Sorry here are the pics

 

[cjmoon]

Didn't have much of a chance to work in the cruiser but started mounting accessories and looking at turbo placement. I believe I am going to do a high front mount. But I'm going to be cutting down the manifold output putting a 90 deg elbow to kick it out and down a bit and weld a new flange on it. That will give me the best placement for easy access and some what nice down tube placement. Planning on inside the frame exhaust too. I can hug the frame and keep it about an inch from the transfer case and room for some heat shields.

I'll get some better pictures of the manifold I plan on using and placement but here was the couple configurations I didn't like as much. Didn't grab one of the one I liked. Need to get some cast elbows to start the manifold changes. Bought a few random bends none that work. Need to order some more.

Also collecting bolts for all the accessories and start plumbing and wiring