40/40 Vision

[greenbeast]

Oh those are some memories!! Lexie pretty much pissed off entire trip since the seat in haul not as big as she was use to when riding in car!!

I got so disenchanted with driving that damn uhaul that I left my debit card at Braums in Salina, With wind blowing like crazy and only 11 miles west of there when they called to tell me, I just told them to keep it! Little did I realize how I would pay for gas the rest of the way home, thank goodness I had old credit card for my business deep in my wallet.

Memories for sure!

 

[cruisermatt]

How long will you be in town? If flying in to Tampa Executive I'm an hour and a half away in normal time, in cruiser time that's maybe an extra 15 minutes, I4 can be finicky.

By the way I was referencing the seller of the sky blue 78 you almost purchased instead of this one. Wasn't familiar with three 70's but I'd go see three 70's any day. Haven't seen one in person yet.

 

[Delancy]

By the way I was referencing the seller of the sky blue 78...

I knew.

I haven't forgotten about the Florida affair, yet....

Doubt that the aforementioned deal would transpire, since he might've been saying that tongue in cheek.

 

[cruisermatt]

If he's serious the date lines up perfectly, and I know a great place to store three cruisers....

I'm scheduling to pull the motor out of my 62 June 1st so I'll need a DD for a while...
I'll be glad to keep those VMJ's running while you arrange transportation

(Tongue in cheek here as well)

 

[greenbeast]

Got another sky blue possibly lined up? What the heck am I saying, I don't need another. Maybe send me a little info???

Chris
If you click on my avatar or make it bigger you will my close friend staring at me! She is a good one for sure!

Pm me little info regarding that H55, cost, ease of installation and any recommendations

 

[Delancy]

Got another sky blue possibly lined up? What the heck am I saying, I don't need another. Maybe send me a little info???

BAHAHAHAHA.

Right there with you!!

It's an addiction, worse than crack, I'm tellin' ya'.

If you click on my avatar or make it bigger you will my close friend staring at me! She is a good one for sure!

No doubt, the smartest breed and she was exceptional.

Pm me little info regarding that H55, cost, ease of installation and any recommendations

I lack the capability to condense into a "little" info.....but I'll try!!

Tell you what you need, instead of.

Standalone 1FZ-FE/H151F/HF1A.

Drop off a rig in Boulder and I'll make it happen!!

I'll be glad to keep those VMJ's running while you arrange transportation

They're relatively easy.

With duct tape and thick shop towels, you can repair any of the individual cracked heads. Ha.

No joke, the PO had several shop rags crammed between two heads and when removed, can hear evidence of compression lost.

No less than seven JB Welded repairs and it (did, until recently) still runs and drives.

I'm not holding my breath, since communications have been ongoing for months, when first listed on eBay.

 

[fj401978]

D, I received the package Wednesday...thank you SOOO much!!! Man, that part is in such great shape, you are an awesome Mud member and fellow Cruiser Brother!!

I hope that karma comes back on you somehow! If there is ever any way I can help you, please let me know!

Thanks again,

Skip

 

[Delancy]

What a couple of days, it's been....with the effort expended and blood loss, you'd think I'd rebuilt the engine.....but failed at two relatively mundane tasks, and asking for guidance on one, since I've incapacitated the vehicle.

First.....

Three hours and two quarts of blood to change oil, front and rear diffs, and overfilled tranny (yes, I'm aware of why that may be, but...).

Why not the TC, you ask?

Because the socket that's now permanently affixed to the drain plug, two broke ratchets and an 24" cheater can't get the damn thing loose.

Fought every damn one of 'em, even the oil filter, but the TC drain is not coming out.

Nonetheless, the tranny is ten times quieter, now, but gonna accelerate the swap, since I'm assuming the TC is/has dumped all fluid.

I digress...

It's a helluva lot different opening an FSM and knowing that everything in it is accurate to the current state of whatever it may be.

I don't claim to be even a hair in a gnats ass in a shop bay, two doors down from a REAL mechanic, but sure as hell thought I could accomplish the simple task of swapping a carb.

Didn't. Next box for those that may be able to provide assistance and can't stand my diatribe.

 

[Delancy]

Having capped all known vacuum leaks, but still having flat spots throughout the throttle range, suspected and tested for any kind of leak at the insulator/carb base, and it did stumble.

The desmog was a hack job, so sourced a non-US '78 carb and a newer insulator (which I butchered, cutting for a manifokd apparatus.....that I don't even need....I think) set about swapping.

Think I found the leak....

As I was removing the nuts, I thought it odd that I had to lift the carb to finish out the last few threads, then nothing else about it, UNTIL setting new carb an insulator on and realizing the studs are too tall to even allow the carb to sit on the insulator, nor would there be enough thread to tighten, if I cut them off.

Yes, I know I contradicted everything I've done by not ordering new carb studs, but manifold and head are being swapped in the future, and this was all a temp measure.

So, my question is, since it's gonna be Sunday and only the box stores will be open:

Anyone know a specific Dorman or other readily available part number for 4 carb studs and nuts?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Check out Jim C's post# 9 HERE

 

[Delancy]

Now the truly ignorant questions, cuss me as you like:

Desmogged, via non-US carb and, in the future, non US head and worked over manis to suit.

I dunno what this is, but does appear to be used with the non-US carb.


Can anyone confirm that it is, in fact, necessary?

(^^Evidence of carb stud and chitty cut on the insulator. Not sure what the best way was to do, but may cut it all off, instead of that crap glaring each time opening hood.)

Next...

I see nothing that will impact completely removing the any of this...

And best I can tell, the charcoal canister has already been rendered useless, but will be now, for sure.

Does that sound correct?

 

[Delancy]

Check out Jim C's post# 9 HERE

Thank you, sir.

For posterity:

I've heard it's a little under $300; rebuilt, tweaked, tested and returned to you.

If a Cruiser has been fully "weberized" and the vendor sold the PO the full boat conversion, then some other parts are needed to make it right again.

Specifically:
- Fuel filter
- 5/16" (8mm) fuel hose
- Mechanical fuel pump, gasket(s) and spacer
- Metal fuel feed line, pump to carb
- Aisan 2 bbl Carburetor
- Carb base plate/heat shield
- 8mmx1.25 carb mounting studs & nuts
- Throttle linkage & pedal & mounting bolts
- Choke cable
- Air cleaner assembly & short mounting bolts
- Air cleaner/carb seal ring
- Molded VC/air cleaner breather hose
- Air cleaner snorkel & rubber hose
- Assorted vacuum hose

HTH.

Good info and should be enough to confuse the crap out of whatever hungover kid is fortunate enough to show to work with me waiting at the door in the morning!!

This very well may have been Weberized, but sometime in the past, it was returned to OE....kinda.

Capping these added 2.1HP.

 

[Delancy]

The replacement.

I know I'm gonna forget how the linkage goes back together, by morning....not to mention the now incorrect notes scratched onto masking tape

 

[Delancy]

Furthering the reveal of how deep I'm in it....but answering my own previous question...I think.

One of these:

Attached here on the old carb:

Can't figure out why, yet.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Maybe you can figure out (from Jim C's sizes) and your measurements, just what studs you need - HERE are some Mr Gasket studs and nuts

I wouldn't remove the charcoal canister (there's a purge procedure in the FSM) or the VCV (or the evapo, behind the passenger seat ) - I kept those and have no gas fumes.

EDIT: Of course, with a non-US carb, the canister, VCV and evapo may not have anything to connect to... in that case... I would suggest you ask FJ40Jim...

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Checkout the '78 desmog layout in post 1 - maybe that will help.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

What a couple of days, it's been....with the effort expended and blood loss, you'd think I'd rebuilt the engine.....but failed at two relatively mundane tasks, and asking for guidance on one, since I've incapacitated the vehicle.

First.....

Three hours and two quarts of blood to change oil, front and rear diffs, and overfilled tranny (yes, I'm aware of why that may be, but...).

Why not the TC, you ask?

Because the socket that's now permanently affixed to the drain plug, two broke ratchets and an 24" cheater can't get the damn thing loose.

Fought every damn one of 'em, even the oil filter, but the TC drain is not coming out.

Chris,

I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight 12V impact driver and found that it has helped me tremendously in breaking loose frozen nuts and bolts. Each time you squeeze the tribber it has to 'build up' it's power them 'slam' the bolt or nut... the 'slam' is an exaggeration... it has never produced enough 'impact' to actually break a bolt... but, repeated 'slams' have always resulted in breaking the culprit loose.

The only broken bolt, I have had, came with my 40...

HTH

 

[DSRTRDR]

your old carb needs at least a new accelerator pump and boot - rebuilding is not that hard

 

[Delancy]

I would suggest you ask FJ40Jim...

It never fails that I wind up on the phone with Jim when he's an hour delayed from eating lunch, having spent the time discussing the insanely mundane with other idiots.....like me and he's hungry.

That said, talked to him last week and my friend, Alberto, is dropping off a NOS non-US head for Jim to do dark and mysterious things to, along with matching manis up, so maybe a call is an option, if all else fails.

I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight 12V impact driver and found that it has helped me tremendously in breaking loose frozen nuts and bolts.

I've got an old school DeWalt, pre-China, that'll snap a wrist if you're not hanging on for dear life, and it won't budge it.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's never been removed....

One question I have, possibly a preventative measure during the month it'll take to get the H55/BF1A prepped, is this:

With the bypass hose installed, can the TC fluid level be effectively maintained via the tranny?

Meaning, if I put the bypass on, can I fill the TC, then drain the transmission to correct the fluid level?

Time to read.

carb rebuilding is not that hard

Pinhead just makes it look easy...

I'm not a good mechanic.

If I can bolt off/bolt on and have the necessary data to do so, then it's no problem, but when it comes to starting forty paces behind the line (hack jobs) it's easy for me to screw up.

This desmog left a lot to be desired and my intentions were to clean it up in an OE manner, hence the non-US carb. I thought, based on pics and research, it'd be a bolt off/bolt on affair, but the more I read the more I realize that I don't want to replicate what was on it, but don't know the first thing about how to have corrected it.

 

[Delancy]

There are some days it pays to be a hoarder.

Thinking F but the appear (no way to measure at storage bay) to be correct.