40/40 Vision

[Delancy]

Is the new head NOS?

Yes, but I can't make the argument that, beyond logistics, it's any benefit considering the known life cycle of F and early, dome top head castings.

There's also a NOS 3F short block on eBay which I'm sure you have seen which would power a 40 quite well.

I have, but can debate the merits of a 3FE versus 1FZ-FE swap, all day.

I have said I'd never rebuild a vintage F/2F on numerous occasions, but will be eating my words on this, simply because I feel she's of a condition that warrants remaining true to the era.

My opinion, based solely on the "built" 2F drivetrain in the Pig, is the 1FZ-F or FE is the best vintage swap option, that stays true to the I6 petrol roots, from every perspective, including expense.

Granted, only 1/3 the way through the drivetrain so it may be too early to claim a success, but if using an MT 1FZ-FE ECU and harness, along with an H151F/HF1A, the swap is simplified to that of a 3F/3FE and it's the pinnacle engine of the Land Cruiser F series.

We'll see how it turns out. On the back burner, for now.

 

[cruisermatt]

I mean a 3F block + 2F head, certainly possible if using an 85-87 head because that would be an overseas 3F right? That's what I'm planning on using my old FJ62 motor for, in a 40.

 

[Delancy]

I mean a 3F block + 2F head, certainly possible if using an 85-87 head because that would be an overseas 3F right?

Essentially, yes.

3F(E) short block, late 2F(3F) head, 3F manifolds, and 3F carb and you've got a 3F.

One thing to note, though, if dissecting and for whatever this may be worth.

A US 2F block is ~1" taller than a 3F(E), as noticed with the distance between the PS brackets, as well the height in pushrods on the Redheaded 2F**.

This is merely an Internet educated, with no experience beyond my endeavors, those in an observatory position of a true F guru, but this height difference may be indicative of Mr T rounding out the oversquare (for lack of better) design of preceding Fs.

What does that mean?

I dunno, but somehow displacement values remained similar, yet the stroke changed and think stroke bears more on torque than displacement.

Beyond SA, the 3F seemed primarily destined for low octane markets, since the inception of the HZ paralled production years and popularity of soared until the introduction of the 1FZ-F(E) (in honesty, long after, but for purposes of this conversation).

Will say the 3F manifolds are a work of art and Toyota finally got it right, only to cease production of a few short years later.

Carb shares the luster.

Regardless, if you continue on your endeavor, I have new, cryo'd 3F(E) pushrods I'd make you a helluva a deal on.

** Redheaded 2F = '76 2F block, late 2F (flattop) pistons, 2F(3) head (Freeborn Red), 3F manifolds and carb.......a hard lesson in idealism, one I wouldn't repeat, favoring 1FZ-FE/H151F/HF1A instead, with less time and money invested.

 

[cruisermatt]

I was going to buy your 3fe pushrods and lifters because you were selling them as I was assembling my engine but couldn't justify the extra cost when the pushrods and lifters I had in hand looked new. If I break one I'll let you know but that doesn't happen on F's.

I am never rebuilding another F motor. In the future I will buy low-mileage engines and just clean them up, the extra couple ponies of a fresh motor doesn't do anything for me as its irrelevant to my intended purpose for Cruisers.

Are 2F rods 2" longer than 3F or are they the same length? If they are the same length then a 2F is truly the "stroker" version of the 3F.
You got your oversquare/undersquare backwards, F engines and L6 engines in general are undersquare, larger stroke then piston bore.

 

[G-Cat]

Land Cruiser Money Saving Plan (Not Savings...Saving)

Register on IH8MUD.com

Subscribe to all threads started by Delancy.

Live vicariously.

 

[Delancy]

I am never rebuilding another F motor.

Have said the same, yet idealism is winning by a nose on this one.

--------

If you opt to swap your pushrods in the future, or if anyone else needs, hit me up. May surprise on the deal, since I want to unload the hoard of crap I've accumulated.

--------

2F pushrods are longer.
By how much, I won't swear, because it was a "huh....I'll be damned! These are too short!!" kinda deal, same as the PS motor mount and brackets that were equally insufficient.

-------

If the square is all I'm backward on, I'll consider that a milestone.

Live vicariously.

Have to subscribe to a lot more than threads here to get a full picture, one not as rosey as it's appears on the digital screen.

In the real world, peers snicker at the modest lifestyle, modest home, and that, besides my wife's car, I don't own a personal vehicle newer than '97.

None seem to understand my enthusiasm, interpreting the Poverty Pack 80 as a representative sample of financial health, even snickering about.....to which I give no chits.

Way I view it is, I get the last laugh, because mine are all paid for, not straddled with insurmountable personal debt, and I've never experienced facial soreness the day after driving any of the Jones' Rovers or Benzs, nor do I have a hard time picking out which of the thirteen leased black BMWs is mine in the parking lot.

My point is, it's all a matter of perspective....

From mine, the daily traverses in the 80 are maintenance therapy and the few hours a week in this 40 afford opportunity to dump the professional stress that I can only equate to that of a pressure cooker, a fact that anyone in the community that personally knows will attest.

All a necessary diversion from reality.

 

[DSRTRDR]

the LX is our newest vehicle among 5 - selling the '61 Buick reduced our mean vehicle age from 32 to only 27.6 - now the 40 is the oldest

I have a hard time getting used to drive-by-wire cars - every time after driving a rental car, I am glad I can go back to the real thing

"money is something to have, not to talk about"

 

[Delancy]

".....is something to have, not to talk about"

I've heard a similar utterance, albeit a different, touchy topic, from Mrs. D.

Doesn't matter that I can make the case for discussing, nor is the hard evidence presented that, one way to not talk about is to have it, often met without rebuttal......

ANYHOW....

On topic.

I have two squirters, neither of which work, the hood mounted due to the paint over.

Line is blocked, about to redo harness, so curious which is accurate or better.....since one has to go.

 

[cruisermatt]

Soak them in lacquer thinner?

 

[Mace]

hood squirter should be a blank.. Windshield squirter line is easy to replace with a piece of 1/4" drip mist line.

 

[joyRidaz]

I agree with @cruisermatt if it's spraypaint at least.

I'm physically stripping a full rattle can paint job off of my truck using lacquer thinner and a boatload of rags and a whole lot of patience and regret

 

[Delancy]

hood squirter should be a blank..

I knew I should've taken the bet...

 

[Mace]

bet?

http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=194&part.number=194-19&tabpage=TAB3

 

[Delancy]

bet?

Buddy at a locally owned, high end P&B shop posed....

He's the third or fourth to say it was an over sprayed squirter and that either the hood or frame wasn't correct.

My opinion differed, but I stopped short of putting a Benji on gut feeling, never thinking there'd be a blank.

Couple of notables questioned, and they're "in the business", in self-defense.

Thanks for the detail.

I'm trying to determine what I should mention/ask Coolerman on a harness rebuild and that came to mind, since integrated to in.

On that note:

I'm uncertain to what extent to alter the harness configuration.

I've a single 12V IGN to carb and don't see need for carb cooling fan (although I am listening if any disagree) so thinking it'd be the cleanest to eliminate, now.

Have OE AC harness (and all bits but the evaporator unit, if anyone is looking to liquidate one) and intentions to add, and think that requires a 55A alternator.

60 Alts are available, 55A and internally regulated, so don't know if it mimic or remain.

 

[Delancy]

One thing I forgot to add to both the reasoning behind head work here, as well as asking machine shop to do, is tapping for PS mount, too.

 

[Mace]

You do not tap the head for power steering. Your block already should have the correct holes

 

[Delancy]

You do not tap the head for power steering.

I misunderstood.

Thought it had to be to use the later mount, but it appears a garage built concoction on the early head, anyway.

 

[Delancy]

How in the sam hell does one remove the olives from the fuel lines?

 

[Weber Sarge]

You cannot remove them , once tightened they are crimped to the fuel line and have to be replaced if they leak by cutting the line off or making a new one . They are still available from Toyota pretty cheap .
Sarge

 

[Delancy]

They are still available from Toyota pretty cheap .
Sarge

Ordered nuts and olives to simply remove the vice grip scars from the nuts and thinking I'd read where they were "serviceable".

Don't "need" beyond aesthetics and as part of the fueling PM, thought it'd be a good time for. Guess I need to learn how to bend fuel lines, now....

Replaced fuel pump, filter, soft lines, clamps and removed carb fan, charcoal canister, leaving the hard lines to go, along with figuring out how to vent tank, then remove the hard lines from the firewall to tank.

Coolerman has been reworking a donor harness that's cleaned up for the desmogged set up, connectors for later lights, H55 reverse switch, and a few other modifications.