4" rough country lift is more like 7" ???

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I'm so tired of this crap about greasable shackles. If you had bought a quality product in the first place your shackle would not have broken. Show me one person who has broken a 4+ greasable shackle. I challenged you on this over a year ago with no response, yet you keep posting the same message like all greasable shackles have the same strength.

I have been running greaseable shackles on the rears for well over 15 years...and over 100K miles and lots of wheeling...I have non greasable on the front for the same time...and 2 bolts are worn a bit wonky with the shackle as well...the rears are undamaged :meh:
 
Five shiny new 33x10.5x15 in the back and it's starting to come down, lol. Couple inches to go and it's free!

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Once you get it out flex the heck out of it with some weight in it. It will help break in the springs.
 
a trailer would be real nice but both of mine are so perfectly balanced they have literally zero tongue weight. i've got monday off to do the front lift. the plan is to ratchet strap the rear and bag the tires down to get it out then do the front lift in the driveway and go flex it out to try and get it down some. if that fails to fix it ill drill the shackles to stock length and go from there.
 
Just load it up with a lot of 50 pound sand bags for lowes, then once it is free leave them in there and find a real rough road to drive down. That should break the springs in, not sure if it will lower it enough.

As for the releasable shackle pins, they are weaker then normal, they have a hole drilled in them. But that does not mean if you broke one, that a normal pin would not have also broken, the hole is very very small.
 
I'm pretty sure i have the same standard height garage door as you.

with FST bows using the paki top

when i was running 4" springs in front and 4" in the rear (both several years old if not more) I couldn't pull in/out of the garage without the bows scraping the door just a bit entering/leaving.

Since the front suspension was a little higher than the rear on stock shackles i ditched the front 4" springs for 2.5" ome springs on stock shackles.

Now i can get in/out without scraping as long as i back in slowly even with the top on. I know the top is thin material but i litteraly have skin of my teeth clearance.

I'm running 32x11.5 danakook (spelling?) m/t's.

air about 25psi

I'm not sure how much setteling you want to do but i have a feeling that with your shackes even with broken in shackles you'll have the clearance you want to get under the garage.

My front ome springs i guess "settled" a bit but the differnce was not noticable by the eye. This has been months ago, several wheeling trips and a SBC swap later.

if your trailer has enough area on the front of it to rest a 55gal drum set it on the Y portion right before the hitch and fill her full of water.
 
Make sure you didn't put the front springs on the rear. The fronts should be shorter if I remenber it right.
 
Would it clear the door frame? Most openings are +/- 84". If so, you can likely adjust your garage door to pull the door just a little bit further open to gain a couple of inches.
 
I've got the door adjusted as far as it goes, it's the opening that's only 82". Worst case I'll just throw a suck down winch in front and back, lol.
 
put shorter shackles on it an put about 400 extra pounds in it and they will relax. No problem. Go by the local pub an pick up some heavy hitters and take them for a ride. It worked for me. You will need to drive it around with the extra weight in order for the springs to settle.
 
Front of the lift is done, took about 4 hours for the front and 5 for the back by my self. I doubt it would have gone much quicker with help, if anyone is thinking of doing it themselves.

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Still a little tall at 5" up front and 6" in the back. I'm still about an inch too high to get it back in the garage.

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I took it offroad for about an hour trying to get it to settle, but I think it will take a while.

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I kinda like the look with no caps, kinda wish I held of on em.

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Driveway is on a slope, 40 is actually pretty level.

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PO included a full car cover with the sale, I'm going to try it out and see if it's water tight tonight. If it's dry tomorrow I'm going to keep trying to get it to settle. If it leaks the tops coming off until it drops an inch.
 
The rear end is noticeably moved forward with that list. Hmmm...

Good to see you're making progress. Deputy Swan?

I'm thinking the Sheriff's got his code book out, and he's looking up the bumper height regs in FL!:doh:

I'm with camcruiser on loading the thing up with sacks of concrete until those springs budge. I've got one of my locals who's having this problem with his front Alcans, and he's got his lifting weights on the front bumper while he's waiting for his springs to settle.

I'm trying to convince him that a few jumps at Pismo will cure it much faster!:eek:

Best

Mark A.
 
Update? I am trying to make sure I can run this lift ad gt into my parking garage

i've got a paki top with 4'' rough country and 33'' tires and pretty much stock shackles and mine fits in the two garages i have used

mine doesn't look nearly has high as his if that helps you decide
 
I have had a 4" BDS w OME greasable shackles on my cruiser for about 7 years and the shackles still don't look much better than yours! Good luck, mine have not settled at all.
 
$OR stock length shackles are in and will go on Monday. I'll reinstall the top and see if she fits, but I doubt it. I'll measure it for you with the top on and you can measure your garage opening.
 

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