3L retrofit - boring out 3.5mm

[GreenPump]

Does anyone make new hardened cranks for the 3L?

I don't know of any.

I'm at around 6,000 feet above sea level and when I'm out and about on the weekends most of my heavy driving is 7,000ft+.

I run pretty rich already. I won't be running more than 9lbs of boost, and I won't be turning my fuel up. I don't need a racecar.

 

[AirheadNut]

For a lot of these older NA diesels I like to think of adding a turbo as a form of altitude compensation. I drove an LN106 from Vancouver BC home to Montana, it was amazing how good it felt cruising along the coast at 115km/h compared to climbing through the mountains at 5000'.

 

[mudgudgeon]

FWIW AllFourx4 spares have a pretty decent reputation in Australia.
They've been a go to for decades for cruiser stuff

 

[GreenPump]

For a lot of these older NA diesels I like to think of adding a turbo as a form of altitude compensation.

I expect I'll get better fuel economy as well. At sea level I was getting close to 400 miles out of a tank. Now, I struggle to get 300 at altitude.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

One of the oil passages was completely gummed up. This one specifically. Along with the oil banjo on cylinder 4 seen below.
View attachment 3478078
View attachment 3478079
Oil that was in there was completely gone to s***. Here's a picture from an earlier post. This is taken during my first oil change after driving across the country on 20 year old oil. I bought the truck in Atlanta and drove it back to Idaho.
View attachment 3478085
All the bearings took a beating but they all took it like a champ. Only one that spun was cylinder 4 rod. So, the cause was chunky funky early 2000s engine oil and about 2500 miles of highway driving.

When I got it back I did all the routine stuff. Filters, engine oil, transmission xfer and diff oil. Grease the fittings. Etc. Then I put another couple thousand miles on it. Started making noise and I kept driving til it got alarming.

Ah, very good work to go through that and find the reason for failure.

As you're not looking for big boost numbers, why not look for a 2L-T turbo setup?

 

[GreenPump]

Around here, 2LTs are hard to come by. Occasionally whole engines turn up.

I'd have to buy a used one from an overseas dismantler. I payed 3000 for the kit from Berrima and 600 bucks of that is shipping.

 

[Dougal]

I don't know of any.

I'm at around 6,000 feet above sea level and when I'm out and about on the weekends most of my heavy driving is 7,000ft+.

I run pretty rich already. I won't be running more than 9lbs of boost, and I won't be turning my fuel up. I don't need a racecar.

Will definitely help and that's a sane boost number. What sort of turbo does it come with? At 6000ft you've got ~20% thinner air than sea-level and you will need an active turbo.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Wow. Looks like you had a rebuild coming anyway. I don't think anything you could have done would have escaped it.

Does anyone make new hardened cranks for the 3L? I've heard stories of turbocharged ones with high boost wearing out the cranks.

I wonder if that generalized crank problem has more to do with tuning? Maybe they've left timing advance for n/a application? I've often wondered if that is why turbo 3b's break cranks.

In any case, the 2lte/2lt-ii have heat treated cranks (hardened?). I assumed 3l would also.

Picture of my 2LTE crank; note blue color from heat treatment where rods connect. ( @GreenPump , when your crank was cleaned did it have that color? I can't tell from your pictures.

 

[GreenPump]

when your crank was cleaned did it have that color? I can't tell from your pictures.

I don't remember. I'll have to grab a picture for you when I pick it up from the shop on Friday.

There's a few new developments. Dave at Back 40 has my fuel pump, so rebuild is pending on that.

I was going to have him do my injectors, but new ones cost the same as freshening up the old ones. Partsouq to the rescue yet again. I paid $145.09 per Injector.

I can't say enough good things about Partsouq. A lot of parts or this project have come from them. How they operate so fast is beyond me. The latest order was two days to fulfill and four days to ship from Dubai to my doorstep.

Faster than the local dealer can get parts from two states away!

You will all be happy to know I ordered a type F genuine Toyota head gasket from partsouq as well as my remaining engine gaskets and seals. All Toyota.

For conrod and main bearings, I have a set I ordered from one of the Australian offroad shops. The brand is NDC, made in Japan. Unsure of the quality but it looks like NDC us the OEM supplier for some other Japanese vehicles.

Partsouq lists three different options for main and conrod bearings but I have no idea what the difference is between the part numbers.

Thoughts?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I don't remember. I'll have to grab a picture for you when I pick it up from the shop on Friday.

There's a few new developments. Dave at Back 40 has my fuel pump, so rebuild is pending on that.

I was going to have him do my injectors, but new ones cost the same as freshening up the old ones. Partsouq to the rescue yet again. I paid $145.09 per Injector.

View attachment 3482448

I can't say enough good things about Partsouq. A lot of parts or this project have come from them. How they operate so fast is beyond me. The latest order was two days to fulfill and four days to ship from Dubai to my doorstep.

View attachment 3482495

Faster than the local dealer can get parts from two states away!

You will all be happy to know I ordered a type F genuine Toyota head gasket from partsouq as well as my remaining engine gaskets and seals. All Toyota.

For conrod and main bearings, I have a set I ordered from one of the Australian offroad shops. The brand is NDC, made in Japan. Unsure of the quality but it looks like NDC us the OEM supplier for some other Japanese vehicles.

Partsouq lists three different options for main and conrod bearings but I have no idea what the difference is between the part numbers.

View attachment 3482491

Thoughts?

The different 'Mark' numbers represent very tiny differences in diameter for crank journals out of the factory. Not apllicable if the journal has been ground. The numbers for the original conrod (I think - check the FSM) bearings are stamped in the block on the sump pan sealing surface, near the back.

For undersized bearings you need to click on the bearing set picture in the EPC.

Taiho are the OEM supplier for this engine, I doubt the other bearings are much different, but don't know.

 

[Elbee]

Appreciate the reply.

I've come to the same conclusion that boring out my current engine is not an option. Additionally a 5L with mech injection is not worth finding/importing for marginally better performance.

My plan as of right now, I am planning to rebuild the 3L and put on a turbo kit. Northwest Toys out of Oregon sells a lot of stuff, but they charge an arm and a leg. I'd be in like 9 grand to rebuild, modify my pump, and use their valve and turbo kit. That's if I do everything myself.

I'm going to call HD Automotive in Brisbane this afternoon. They have a great reputation with their kits, and they sell a rebuild as well. For about half the price.

Hopefully they will be willing to ship internationally. Their website says they will ship via DHL.

Planning to pull my engine Friday. I'll post pictures.

Did you get a rebuild kit from Brisbane? Or everything from parts souq?

 

[GreenPump]

Everything that went into the rebuild I got genuine Toyota parts from partsouq. The only thing I couldn't find was the weird Fiberglass molded valve cover noise damper. I ordered that from Amayama. Surprisingly, they found one. Took four weeks though.

I got some miscellaneous stuff from down under. Like the HD 10 blade fan. Terrain tamer rad/heater hoses. Excedy HD clutch kit. And my turbo kit from Berrima Diesel. (Now finally is en route).

The gasket kit All4xFourSpares sent me was complete crap. Everything else they sent was good. But the gaskets were garbage. I ended up individually ordering everything from partsouq.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The gasket kit All4xFourSpares sent me was complete crap

That sucks

 

[Elbee]

Everything that went into the rebuild I got genuine Toyota parts from partsouq. The only thing I couldn't find was the weird Fiberglass molded valve cover noise damper. I ordered that from Amayama. Surprisingly, they found one. Took four weeks though.
View attachment 3487371
I got some miscellaneous stuff from down under. Like the HD 10 blade fan. Terrain tamer rad/heater hoses. Excedy HD clutch kit. And my turbo kit from Berrima Diesel. (Now finally is en route).

The gasket kit All4xFourSpares sent me was complete crap. Everything else they sent was good. But the gaskets were garbage. I ended up individually ordering everything from partsouq.

good to know. i'm looking to having to rebuild my 5L

 

[GreenPump]

I have picked up the last bits from the machine shop. My fuel pump is still up at Back40. So I won't finish completely this weekend. But, it's finally time. I plan to take pictures and document the rebuild as I go.

And away we go....

 

[GreenPump]

Back on the stand!
First thing, oil banjos. I bought a new center bolts.

Pop them in, torque them up.

 

[GreenPump]

Next, main bearings. Machine shop ground the crank 0.25mm. I ordered the corresponding undersize.

They go in perfectly, with one side protruding slightly. Back clearance looks good, but we'll find out soon enough.

Making sure to keep the back surfaces of the bearings clean...

Now wipe a thin film of engine oil onto the inner face of the bearing, where it contacts the crank, per the factory service manual (FSM).

 

[GreenPump]

Next, pop in the crank. Looking nice and shiny. Time to check oil clearance on the mains.

Torque it up!
Then pop the cap back off.

 

[GreenPump]

In spec! Great news. Time to repeat for each main bearing cap.

They were all around 0.063mm.

Clean up the plastigauge... wipe some oil on the top side of the bearings. And torque them up for good.

 

[GreenPump]

Time to give the pistons some attention.
I bought new rings, as well as wristpin bushings. I suspected the wrist pin bushings were fine, but because of the lubrication issues on the big ends, I decided to pop one apart and make sure.

FSM recommends heating up the Piston and tapping out the bushing.

After boiling the Piston in a pot for a few minutes, it easily came apart. Consistent with FSM which says bushing should move by hand at 140 degrees.

Wrist pins are completely fine. Reassembled while still hot.

Next I used degreaser and a brush to clean up carbon in the grooves and top of the pistons.

They came out pretty good!