3L retrofit - boring out 3.5mm

[GreenPump]

Time for new rings. Bottom oil ring can go either way, but the first two rings have a top side marked with a T or N. Hard to see but its there.

After assembling the new rings, I soaked the pistons in engine oil. (They've been boiled, decreased, scrubbed, and brake cleaned to get the moisture out).

I put them in a dish and poured oil filling each Piston up, and let the oil slowly drip out the passageways on the oil ring.

This also gave the very dry wrist pins a good oily soak.

 

[GreenPump]

Next, push the pistons through.
Followed FSM for aligning the rings. Tricky but important.

I used a harbor freight $10 pistons ring compressor and the wooden handle of my hammer to knock them carefully through the block.

Didn't get many pictures of this part. It takes both hands. I turned the block on its side to make things easier.

 

[GreenPump]

Repeat the oil clearance check on the conrods... conrods were ground 0.5mm.

Conrods were in spec! Reassemble, light coat of oil, torque to spec.

 

[GreenPump]

Bottom end is done and turning nicely. Time to fit on the head.

Machine shop rebuilt the whole valvetrain. Parts were cheap, not worth reusing the old stuff. Seats, guides, springs, valves, seals. The whole deal. Camshaft was in perfect shape so it got new STD bearings.

Head gasket is Type F from toyota (1.65mm thickness). Old one measured 1.56mm, but that's after it was compressed a bit.

 

[GreenPump]

New head bolts!

Following the FSM, bolts are brought up to torque spec, in the correct order, and then turned 90 degrees two additional times.

Light coating of oil to the bolts...

Torque them up to spec.

 

[GreenPump]

Used paint pen to mark the bolts after bringing them all up to torque spec in order.

Head is now on!

 

[GreenPump]

Rebuilt my oil pump with new rotors. I also replaced all the little springs and oil valves.

 

[GreenPump]

Cam and crank seals.

I coat mine in engine oil, seat them by hand, and then use a brass drift to carefully tap them in until fully seated.

 

[GreenPump]

Since I am still waiting on my fuel pump, I can't time it up yet. Left the cam and crank at top dead center.

Installing oil cooler... rebuilt with new gaskets, and just like the oil pump I replaced all the springs and valves inside the internal passageways.

 

[GreenPump]

Replacing little bits and bobs on the block. All the plugs I took out went back on...

 

[GreenPump]

New injectors!

Annnd.... thats all for tonight folks. Hope you enjoyed the pictures. More to come later.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Next, main bearings. Machine shop ground the crank 0.25mm. I ordered the corresponding undersize.
View attachment 3489891
View attachment 3489892
They go in perfectly, with one side protruding slightly. Back clearance looks good, but we'll find out soon enough.
View attachment 3489893
View attachment 3489894
Making sure to keep the back surfaces of the bearings clean...

Now wipe a thin film of engine oil onto the inner face of the bearing, where it contacts the crank, per the factory service manual (FSM).
View attachment 3489895

I'd be using a purpose made assembly lube, not engine oil.
It's designed to stick and stay lubricious for longer than oil. It'll stay there longer if it takes you a while to assemble everything.

And, I can tell you from experience, it'll keep things lubed and turning over nicely while you wait for oil pressure to come up on first start up.
I had oil pressure relief valve jam open in a rebuilt engine just after start up.
After initially seeing oil pressure, the valve stuck open, and the engine ran like a Swiss watch for 20+ minutes with no oil circulating while i brought it to temp, and set timing etc.
Ultimately destroyed the crank and some bearings, but on tear down, a film of assembly lube was still visible on majority of bearing surfaces.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I guess you're past using assembly lube now
Looking good. Nice and clean and new

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Wow, fantastic work! You don't mess around do you, haha. Looks great!

 

[GreenPump]

Did some more today. Still waiting on fuel pump otherwise I'd probably finish up this evening.

Did some painting on the valve covers. Just black semigloss engine enamel out of spray can. New gasket too.

Rebuilt thermostat housing.

 

[GreenPump]

New engine mount on the alternator bracket. Then I installed it and hooked up the hoses and wires running to the block.

New engine mount is very soft and can be manipulated by hand. The old one has the rigidity of a brick. Deep-sixed it.

Started replacing some of my old heater hose with the new Terrain Tamer kit.

It was sunny and not snowing so I went outside and replaced some clutch parts on the truck. With no engine in there I can just hop in there and fiddle with the bell housing.

I didn't take any pictures.

Replaced:
Master cylinder (with much cussing and fiddling under the dash with springs)
Slave Cylinder
Soft connecting hose between hardlines
Release bearing
Clutch fork
Clutch fork boot
Clutch fork pivot point

Took my flywheel down to the machine shop and had it resurfaced. They didn't have to take much off. Now I am ready to install the new excedy HD Clutch plate, disc, and spigot bearing when I put the engine in.

 

[GreenPump]

Rebuilt and cleaned intake manifold.

Also polished up my timing cover and replaced the two rubber gaskets.

 

[GreenPump]

Exhaust headers. Putting on the original ones for now. Until the turbo headers show up.

Heat shield.

And that's it for tonight.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks on behalf of the community for this great picture reference. And again, good work!

 

[GreenPump]

So, a few minor developments since I last posted. Mostly I was waiting on parts. As with before my fuel pump is at Back 40. Dave let me know it came in with pretty low pressure. Glad to get it rebuilt.

I had a bit of a situation on the lower end. I went back to double check torque on all the bottom end hardware. Everything was still tight and up to spec. That's when I noticed this:

All my conrods were at 40 ft-lbs. But the manual calls for an additional 90 degree turn. Now this raises the question. Are these torque-to-yield? FSM does say that "if any bolts crack or deform, replace them". Similar to with the head bolts. Strangely the mains have no such instruction and are simply brought to 76 ft-lbs. Torque to yield bolts, such as flywheel and head bolts, typically require the additional step to set the bolts after bringing up to torque.

Well, I tried the additional 90 degrees.

Crap.

So, the old bolts couldn't handle the additional 90 degrees called for in the FSM. I ordered 8 new ones. My experience seems to confirm that these bolts aren't meant to be reused. I'm confounded.

Good news is, I can easily swap out and re-torque those conrod bolts without tearing anything back down.

As of posting this, I already ordered 8 new conrod bolts from the UAE, $2.00 a pop. They showed up in three days. Planning to put them in this weekend.