- Thread starter
- #101
And, on the bright side, my turbo kit showed up from Berrima Diesel. It went from Australia, to Korea, to Taiwan, to Alaska then ended up in Salt Lake city on a truck to Idaho Falls. What a weird journey. But, it's here. Wahoo!!
3L retrofit - boring out 3.5mm
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The head, main and big end bolts are all re-useable, providing they pass inspection. I know there are procedures for the head bolts but don't remember if the FSM shows the same for the other bolts.
Was the broken bolt in the rod which got hot?
- Thread starter
- #103
The rod isn't the one that got really hot. (Cylinder 4). But the bolts may be. I mixed around my hardware because it's all the same. The pistons and caps are still in the original locations.
For reference here was cylinder 4 on the initial Teardown.
I can see your point because where the bolt broke is right up next to the bearing surface.
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It's the threads that stetch eventually on these bolts, so to me it's an odd failure that the head broke off, but just a guess that it might be heat fatigue.
- Thread starter
- #105
On a side note, I picked up two LN107 hiluxes last weekend. I'm working on maintainence. One is extremely clean. Even nicer than my own (SSRX trim with sports bar). It's getting fluids/timing belt/general tune up before I post it for sale but if anyone in the Eastern Idaho area is interested feel free to reach out.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think if your budget will tolerate it, change all the head, rod, main bolts, and flywheel bolts.
The few dollars they cost, I'd cheap insurance and peace of mind. I've had head bolts yield despite measuring out ok
The few dollars they cost, I'd cheap insurance and peace of mind. I've had head bolts yield despite measuring out ok
- Thread starter
- #107
I changed out head bolts, I've got a set of flywheel bolts, and I've now changed the rods as well. Mains I had trouble finding a set, and mine looked fine and torqued up perfectly.
Of those bolts the mains are also the only ones which don't require extra turns after torque spec is reached.
- Thread starter
- #108
Rod bolts replaced. All the new ones took the additional 90 degrees without a hiccup.
- Thread starter
- #109
Pictures of discoloration on the old rod bolts.
- Thread starter
- #110
Everything torqued up. Crank is turning great. Can move it by hand. Bearing clearances all in spec.
Oil sump and gasket. Poured some oil down into the pump to help when I start it the first time.
Oil dipstick holder. Got a new one, I destroyed the old getting it out. Put on some loctite 243 and tapped it in.
I got frustrated with waiting and pulled the fuel pump out of one of the two LN107s in my backyard. Now I'll have to swap the pump when Dave finishes my rebuild. But... at least I can get this thing running.
Installed.
Oil sump and gasket. Poured some oil down into the pump to help when I start it the first time.
Oil dipstick holder. Got a new one, I destroyed the old getting it out. Put on some loctite 243 and tapped it in.
I got frustrated with waiting and pulled the fuel pump out of one of the two LN107s in my backyard. Now I'll have to swap the pump when Dave finishes my rebuild. But... at least I can get this thing running.
Installed.
- Thread starter
- #111
Time everything up and put in the belt.
Put on the cover..
Put on the cover..
- Thread starter
- #112
Glow plugs, insulators and harness/ connector thing.
Slapped on the power steering pump. Now I've got an extra pair of hands coming over and I'm going to grab an engine hoist.
Slapped on the power steering pump. Now I've got an extra pair of hands coming over and I'm going to grab an engine hoist.
- Thread starter
- #113
For those curious about the turbo kit... I received, unpacked and staged the kit, and upon doing so realized I'd made a mistake.
Australian LN106 trucks have a different airbox, which is sideways and takes up the passenger side (left) battery area. Their intake manifold is also different.
I'd like to keep my dual battery setup, so I won't use that style airbox. All I really need is an Australian intake manifold. I ordered one on All4xFour Spares from their wrecking yard.
At a later date I will delete my factory airbox. In the space where the airbox was removed, I will install my Webasto Thermo Top C circulating heater. Radiator inlet and outlet tube are perfect situated to plumb it in right there.
I'll have my air intake going to the right off my turbo and then I'll use all the piping from the kit into the Australian intake manifold.
It will look kind of like this.
Except the intake manifold will be down lower.
Australian LN106 trucks have a different airbox, which is sideways and takes up the passenger side (left) battery area. Their intake manifold is also different.
I'd like to keep my dual battery setup, so I won't use that style airbox. All I really need is an Australian intake manifold. I ordered one on All4xFour Spares from their wrecking yard.
At a later date I will delete my factory airbox. In the space where the airbox was removed, I will install my Webasto Thermo Top C circulating heater. Radiator inlet and outlet tube are perfect situated to plumb it in right there.
I'll have my air intake going to the right off my turbo and then I'll use all the piping from the kit into the Australian intake manifold.
It will look kind of like this.
Except the intake manifold will be down lower.
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- Thread starter
- #114
Didn't get around to posting the pictures this weekend. But I got the engine back in on Saturday and it was running by Sunday afternoon. One of my buddies came over to give me a hand.
New harmonic balancer. Old one the rubber internal section was broken and bunched up, getting slowly forced out the little crevice.
Valve covers, some fresh semigloss black, and the new silencer pad.
Rigged it up to the engine hoist. Pulling the old pilot bearing with slide hammer.
New one.
New harmonic balancer. Old one the rubber internal section was broken and bunched up, getting slowly forced out the little crevice.
Valve covers, some fresh semigloss black, and the new silencer pad.
Rigged it up to the engine hoist. Pulling the old pilot bearing with slide hammer.
New one.
- Thread starter
- #115
Rear main seal and gasket. The seal was an absolute pain to get seated. I ended up putting it in the freezer, heating my cover with a blowtorch, and even then had to pound in the seal with a brass hammer and brass drift.
Two hiluxes waiting patiently out in the snow...
Side note... bolts on the block that I don't plan on taking out anytime soon (particularly low torque bolts like the rear plate here) I used some loctite 243. I used a couple tubes on this project. Nobody likes bolts vibrating loose. You can still get them off later if you need to. Anything that might be required to remove during routine service I leave out the loctite.
Two hiluxes waiting patiently out in the snow...
Side note... bolts on the block that I don't plan on taking out anytime soon (particularly low torque bolts like the rear plate here) I used some loctite 243. I used a couple tubes on this project. Nobody likes bolts vibrating loose. You can still get them off later if you need to. Anything that might be required to remove during routine service I leave out the loctite.
- Thread starter
- #116
Original flywheel, resurfaced. Barely had to take any off. Came out great from the local clutch shop, $40 well spent.
New flywheel bolts. Got them off Amayama, because partsouq was out. Used some loctite 243 and torqued them all up.
Putting on my Excedy HD clutch kit. I kind of stopped taking pictures at this point because I was in go mode.
But, as I previously mentioned, soft lines, slave, master cylinder, fork, release bearing, fork boot, fork pivot point, as well as the little bump stops and pins/bushings on the clutch pedal, were all replaced. The system was completely emptied and bled with new DOT 3 fluid. Components are really cheap and it's totally worth doing.
Again no pictures but I just followed the FSM and Excedy sent instructions with the kit. Bolt on the plate, loctite 243, tighten in 3-4 passes up to torque. Light coating of high temp grease on splines of pressure plate (included in kit).
New flywheel bolts. Got them off Amayama, because partsouq was out. Used some loctite 243 and torqued them all up.
Putting on my Excedy HD clutch kit. I kind of stopped taking pictures at this point because I was in go mode.
But, as I previously mentioned, soft lines, slave, master cylinder, fork, release bearing, fork boot, fork pivot point, as well as the little bump stops and pins/bushings on the clutch pedal, were all replaced. The system was completely emptied and bled with new DOT 3 fluid. Components are really cheap and it's totally worth doing.
Again no pictures but I just followed the FSM and Excedy sent instructions with the kit. Bolt on the plate, loctite 243, tighten in 3-4 passes up to torque. Light coating of high temp grease on splines of pressure plate (included in kit).
- Thread starter
- #117
Fun part...
Snowing pretty bad, moved in the garage.
Suggestions for getting the engine in:
The 3,300lb tow strap at Harbor Freight fits perfectly onto the hoist points and comes with a protective sleeve. No fiddling around with chains. Best $10 you'll spend.
Start with the engine angled down, with a two by four under your transmission to hold it up a bit. Get the input shaft close and then start tipping the front of the engine down. Have one person operate the hoist while the other lines up the dowels underneath.
If you have trouble getting the transmission and engine to slide together, raise/lower the transmission with a floor jack while you tilt the engine forward. Once you achieve the right angle, it will slide in.
You will not be able to push the last 1/2 inch or so to seat the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Get it close enough to thread in your longer bell housing bolts and tighten them in a diagonal pattern.
*CLICK* And it's in!
End of the day Saturday. Come back Sunday to hook stuff up.
Air and fuel filter.
Took about 3-4 hours to tighten up the remaining bell housing bolts, exhaust, get in the starter and hook up a dozen coolant, fuel lines, and wires.
I used little white string tags from Walmart to label everything when I pulled. So there wasn't any guesswork involved. Easy peasy. Don't forget the ground wire on the verrry back of the block!
Initial start up took a few tries. Mostly to fill up all the empty fuel lines and completely dry filter. Lots of blue oily smoke from the excess engine oil on the cylinder walls. Got oil pressure immediately. Using Rotella T4 to break it in, before I switch to Amsoil. Oil was spraying everywhere in the valve covers, good sign. Oil Filter nice and full. Refilling coolant, power steering fluid, idling a bit. Running and sounding fantastic.
Went for a drive later, absolutely sounding and feeling great. The new clutch is the most noticeable difference. A bit more power than before. Interestingly, the engine appears to "shake" more and visibility vibrates in the engine bay. But inside the cab, quieter and less vibration.
I think the new engine mounts are doing their job. The old ones were so hard it might as well have been sitting on two medium sized rocks.
Update to follow. So far, so good!
Snowing pretty bad, moved in the garage.
Suggestions for getting the engine in:
The 3,300lb tow strap at Harbor Freight fits perfectly onto the hoist points and comes with a protective sleeve. No fiddling around with chains. Best $10 you'll spend.
Start with the engine angled down, with a two by four under your transmission to hold it up a bit. Get the input shaft close and then start tipping the front of the engine down. Have one person operate the hoist while the other lines up the dowels underneath.
If you have trouble getting the transmission and engine to slide together, raise/lower the transmission with a floor jack while you tilt the engine forward. Once you achieve the right angle, it will slide in.
You will not be able to push the last 1/2 inch or so to seat the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Get it close enough to thread in your longer bell housing bolts and tighten them in a diagonal pattern.
*CLICK* And it's in!
End of the day Saturday. Come back Sunday to hook stuff up.
Air and fuel filter.
Took about 3-4 hours to tighten up the remaining bell housing bolts, exhaust, get in the starter and hook up a dozen coolant, fuel lines, and wires.
I used little white string tags from Walmart to label everything when I pulled. So there wasn't any guesswork involved. Easy peasy. Don't forget the ground wire on the verrry back of the block!
Initial start up took a few tries. Mostly to fill up all the empty fuel lines and completely dry filter. Lots of blue oily smoke from the excess engine oil on the cylinder walls. Got oil pressure immediately. Using Rotella T4 to break it in, before I switch to Amsoil. Oil was spraying everywhere in the valve covers, good sign. Oil Filter nice and full. Refilling coolant, power steering fluid, idling a bit. Running and sounding fantastic.
Went for a drive later, absolutely sounding and feeling great. The new clutch is the most noticeable difference. A bit more power than before. Interestingly, the engine appears to "shake" more and visibility vibrates in the engine bay. But inside the cab, quieter and less vibration.
I think the new engine mounts are doing their job. The old ones were so hard it might as well have been sitting on two medium sized rocks.
Update to follow. So far, so good!
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- Thread starter
- #118
Monday update. Total of 85km have been put on the rebuilt engine. Experiencing very rough cold starts (I need to check into the glow plug wiring, I suspect something wasn't grounded correctly).
I've done some highway driving at 120km and some in town driving. Drove in some deep snow in 4WD and also under light engine load.
I expect the rings are not seated yet. No blue smoke but the truck is definitely burning a bit of oil, which can be smelled strongly from the exhaust.
Rotella T4 15W40 is in there still. I haven't changed out the initial filter and oil. It slowly turned brown then black tonight.
Anyone have an idea of what kind of time frame I can expect to get my rings perfect? The machine shop only honed off the glazing. Bore was totally unchanged and the original pistons were cleaned of carbon and fitted with new rings.
As detailed on this post, factory manual was followed to the letter installing my pistons, and the original spec toyota parts were used.
I've done some highway driving at 120km and some in town driving. Drove in some deep snow in 4WD and also under light engine load.
I expect the rings are not seated yet. No blue smoke but the truck is definitely burning a bit of oil, which can be smelled strongly from the exhaust.
Rotella T4 15W40 is in there still. I haven't changed out the initial filter and oil. It slowly turned brown then black tonight.
Anyone have an idea of what kind of time frame I can expect to get my rings perfect? The machine shop only honed off the glazing. Bore was totally unchanged and the original pistons were cleaned of carbon and fitted with new rings.
As detailed on this post, factory manual was followed to the letter installing my pistons, and the original spec toyota parts were used.
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Break-in is usually in the order of 1500 km I believe, though there are many opinions on this.
Do you have an idea of how much oil the engine was using before rebuilding? That's a good benchmark to aim for. I had a 2L honed with new rings on the old pistons and it still used oil (modestly) afterwards.
When you had the block back, did you check the ring end gap in each of the bores? It's an easy way to check the bore size without expensive and fiddly bore gagues. You can also shine a light below a ring in a cylinder to look for obvious out-of-round, compare the end gaps at different levels in the cylinder to look for taper, but I assume your machine shop did these checks with tools.
You mention the engine seems to shake more than before - this will probably be down to the fuel pump you are using.
Do you have an idea of how much oil the engine was using before rebuilding? That's a good benchmark to aim for. I had a 2L honed with new rings on the old pistons and it still used oil (modestly) afterwards.
When you had the block back, did you check the ring end gap in each of the bores? It's an easy way to check the bore size without expensive and fiddly bore gagues. You can also shine a light below a ring in a cylinder to look for obvious out-of-round, compare the end gaps at different levels in the cylinder to look for taper, but I assume your machine shop did these checks with tools.
You mention the engine seems to shake more than before - this will probably be down to the fuel pump you are using.
- Thread starter
- #120
I did not check the end gap. I probably should have. I have a hard time believing the light hone from the shop could cause a problem.
The maximum end gap seems extremely generous.
The maximum end gap seems extremely generous.
