GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I hope you're right about the head. I can't tell from the photo for sure either way, but I agree that is an odd spot for a crack.
3L retrofit - boring out 3.5mm
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I hope you're right about the head. I can't tell from the photo for sure either way, but I agree that is an odd spot for a crack.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yep, no cracks in the head luckily. Just some liquid drooling out of it.
I am going to pull apart the bottom end tonight. It can't be too bad, all the pistons come up nice and flush to the block. I'm sure it's minor damage to a rod bearing.
Current plan is to have the machine shop measure everything, make sure my block is perfect, clean everything up and then throw in some new bearings. Depending on what I find. Machine shop will help me order correct bearings.
I also want to rebuild my valvetrain. Seems like the parts are cheap and it looks like some of the valves are leaking a bit... see how one looks clean.
I'm not sure yet whether I want to re-use my pistons. I think they are probably fine. I'll find out tonight...
As I already mentioned Dave at Back40 is doing my pump and injectors.
Machine shop will also look at my camshaft and crank and hone if needed. Will clean up the head too, get it perfect and make sure no minor cracks/warps that I haven't noticed.
More pictures tonight.
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- #23
What are you using? I've considered doing this. I was also considering the 10-blade radiator fan and maybe an upgraded aluminum radiator.
If I do end up running a turbo it will be the kit from Berrima Diesel. I'm at very high altitude- frequently 8,000ft plus. So it runs smokey. 9 or 10 PSI will really help it run better. I won't be turning my fuel up at all. There is no need.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I use Evans Waterless coolant. I overheat my truck every summer a few times while towing my camper trailer up big hills (OEM temp gauge kisses red). I've done that for 10 years, and still my engine runs great. So I think it works.
There are downsides though. One, it doesn't transfer heat as efficiently as water, so you will run higher overall temps under load. In theory though, the temps should be more even and thus prevent head metal stress issues. The other downside, is I think it gels in super cold ambient temperatures; like -40C (-40F). It doesn't get that cold where I live though.
Also make sure you run the newer 82C t-stat. Make sure your fan clutch is in good shape. A good radiator really helps.
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Glad the head is not cracked. I definitely think you are right to bebuild this engine - from the other side of the internet that knocking sound gave the impression that serious engine failure was imminent. Seeing the sludge in the engine, I imagined that it would be a case of oil starvation, but looking at the camshaft lobes it does not seem to have had low oil pressure in general (the camshaft being the 'end of the line' for oil pressure and usually the first place to lose pressure). I suppose it could be very localised oil starvation at the bottom end, or maybe a freak bearing failure but otherwise it is very puzzling. I would not rule out a red herring like a broken dual mass flywheel (does it have one?), cracked exhaust manifold etc. My 2L had over 400,000 km on it when I tore it down, no trace of honing left on the cylinder walls, but the crank journals are like new. Your pistons look fine to re-use and unless there is ring land wear, you might even use the same rings as they are nicely mated to the cylinder walls.
Aluminium radiators are weak and a cheap replacement. I would not regard them as an upgrade to the original brass unit. Better spend the money having the original radiator rodded out from one end by an old-school radiator shop.
In certain markets the L engines got a 'high-altitude compensator' but all these can do is reduce fuelling as air pressure reduces. A turbo would indeed be good for this.
I had my 2L up to 5350 m in northern India (17,550 ft in old money) - it must have had 35 or 40 hp at the flywheel and could only manage 1st and 2nd gear on any incline before black smoke plumed out.
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- #26
This thermostat?
As for the radiator, Mishimoto makes a radiator for my hilux. It's a 3-row construction and almost twice the capacity of the stock unit. Unlike the cheap parts store ones, they are actually pretty durable and get welded up nicely. There's a lot of cheap garbage ones out there though.
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I would go genuine on the thermostat. Although HKT are Japanese, they are not, I believe an OEM Toyota supplier and their quality is not the same in my experience (junk glowplugs). I think there is also fake Taiwanese HKT stuff out there.
Look out for the temperature ranges though. In warm climates like here, vehicles get 82º C thermostats so the coolant system opens as soon as possible. In colder climates, like Japan, 88º C thermostats are fitted so that the coolant runs hotter and heat transfer from the heater matrix in the cabin is improved. I'll try to get the part number for an 82º C L-series thermostat later.
As was mentioned above, pay close attention to the fan clutch. They are silent engine killers. I'm not sure how to really tell if it works correctly but if you shut down a hot engine and see the fan free-wheeling, then the clutch is junk (or needs re-oiling if you want to get into that).
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- #28
No cracked exhaust, no dual mass flywheel. Harmonic balancers have been known to make similar noises (they split over time) but mine looks ok.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Yes, that is the right T-stat part number. OEM Toyota one is $17CAD on Partsouq, so not a bad option.
I did used to run the 88C one in winter and 82C one in summer. Didn't see any real benefit to be honest. So I just stick with the 82C one now year round.
I ran an aluminum rad (52mm core I think) for a while and other than poor fitment it was ok. Eventually I had the original re-cored to 60mm thick core (four core). Did not make much cooling difference honestly from a previous 54mm thick one. I also ran a 48mm thick one at one point, and it was definitely worse at cooling!
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- #30
I am very glad I tore this down. The sound has been found.
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- #31
A piece of the "tab" can be seen still stuck in the bottom of the rod. Good rod bearings on cylinder 3 shown for reference
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- #32
Scoring on the crankshaft. Looks worse in the picture. But its definitely not good. Can be felt with the fingernail. Only cylinder 4. Cylinders 1-3 look pristine
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Wow, that's nuts. I'm glad you tore it down too. Sorry to see the crank damage though. 
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Thanks for sharing your work here, good for catching that. Interested to see if you find any obstructions in the No.4 oil passage in the block or the passage through the crank. Is there any sign of wear on the No. 4 piston compared with others?
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
Wow yeah the bores are in very good condition. I remember pulling my head and seeing indents on the bore from the wrist pin rattling around, I have very high hope for this engine. Hopefully it's just the bearings the took the brunt of the wear.
My Canadian market 2L came with the altitude compensator, I have it sitting on a shelf somewhere after my turbo install. It.... worked as intended I guess. Up in the mountains I noticed it smoke less than in town. My biggest gripe with it was depending on the weather, I'd get a little more fuel or a little less fuel, not a big difference, but as someone with a very sensitive butt, I could tell every so often the fueling was different.
I look forward to following along with your progress.
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I'd never considered that it could be so sensitive, but it makes sense. A bit like a ship's barometer, you have a diesel engine that can tell you when bad weather is coming and has more pep when it's a nice clear sunny day
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- #37
Look how nice the rings sit in there!
All the bearings were starting to go. Pitting. But only cylinder 4 had gone. Crank feels like about 10 thousandths will need to come off. Not too bad.
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- #38
Here's pictures of the rod and keeper on cylinder 4. I think I will just replace them. And grind my crank. It won't need much.
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
Yes it is a barometric coil that presses on this spring, which limits the throw of the throttle.I'd never considered that it could be so sensitive, but it makes sense. A bit like a ship's barometer, you have a diesel engine that can tell you when bad weather is coming and has more pep when it's a nice clear sunny day
It is basically the same as a boost compensator, but the pin groove is reversed.
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I guess there was more than just oil and carbon in that sludge. Have you checked the camshaft bearings?
