3L retrofit - boring out 3.5mm

[mudgudgeon]

I did not check the end gap. I probably should have. I have a hard time believing the light hone from the shop could cause a problem.

The maximum end gap seems extremely generous.
View attachment 3499091

On the old LCOOL forum, lots of guys rebuilding 1hd-t in Australia complain about burning oil after rebuild.
Almost invariably turns out they wrap the engine in cotton wool and baby it.

Drive the vehicle normally, use the engine through every part of its rev range. You need it to get some heat into everything for rings to bed in properly.
Do not drive it like it was made of crystal.

I'd expect it to be run in over 1500-2000 km

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I agree with that too ^^ .

And also you don't want to wait too long just running light duty only, or the rings may never seat right. If you have a trailer and some long hills nearby, I'd suggest hook up and load the engine up good for a while to help seat the rings.

This is a thing for brand new diesels too. I've read lots about diesel trucks that have only ever been used for commuting and light duty short trips in cities. The rings never seat right and they always use a bit of oil. The diesels actually put to work usually don't have that problem. (I think this was a problem for VDJ76 cruisers even?).

 

[GreenPump]

Don't worry, I'm not being kind to it. I've been driving around in the snow in 4 Low shifting through the gears and pounding on it as hard as I can. It really can rev up really high now. Getting just below 5K rpm, which is the start of redline, without so much as a stutter.
It never could do that before.

I'll try to think of something heavy to drag around this weekend. I don't have a hitch on the factory bumper so maybe I can borrow one of those industrial gravel bags or something. Actually my buddy has a junk subaru outback in front of his house maybe I'll hook up to that and drag it around in a field.

I figured out my hard starting issue. I have the "super start" glow plug system which uses a resistor in the intake manifold to step down voltage for the glowplugs. I hooked up the leads wrong. Both positive and negative go onto the resistor and I mistook it for some kind of manifold heater and ran the negative onto the block.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

How's it running now?

 

[GreenPump]

How's it running now?

I'm at around 500km and already the strong oil burning smell is gone from the exhaust. Running great still. I will be doing a long drive to visit family next week (over 1200km). Lots of hills and I'll shift between 3rd/4th/5th to keep the engine rpm variable on the trip. I don't notice any difference on the dipstick.

After hooking up the glow plug resistor correctly, still no power to the glow plugs. I'd blown the 80 amp fuse. Once replaced it starts up no problem.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I'm at around 500km and already the strong oil burning smell is gone from the exhaust. Running great still. I will be doing a long drive to visit family next week (over 1200km). Lots of hills and I'll shift between 3rd/4th/5th to keep the engine rpm variable on the trip. I don't notice any difference on the dipstick.

After hooking up the glow plug resistor correctly, still no power to the glow plugs. I'd blown the 80 amp fuse. Once replaced it starts up no problem.

Fantastic, that all sounds great! Congrats on a job well done. Thanks again for all the detailed pictures in this thread.

 

[GreenPump]

Update. 2800 kms so far.

Drove my truck from eastern Idaho to Seattle to visit family. On the third oil change and 2nd filter since rebuild. The rings appeared to have set in using dino oil, so I've switched back to Amsoil 10w30 diesel.

Kept an eye on the oil. In typical 3L fashion it gets black almost immediately. No missing oil on the dipstick and the exhaust is smelling pretty normal.

Here she is in Olympic National Park, hiking trail up to 50/50 pass and Valhalla Peak.

Still working on the two LN107s I picked up. The blue has already found a good home and will be gone the first week of January.

I got my fuel pump back from Dave at Back40 Imports. Looks great, I can't wait to put it back on.

The Australian LN106 intake manifold also showed up this week from All4xFour Spares. My first time ordering from their wrecking yard, seems to have worked out well.

The final thing I am waiting on is a Mishimoto 3 Row aluminum radiator. It came off backorder two weeks ago and is showing up soon.

In January I will be starting the turbo project on my 3L. I'm very excited.

Current plan:

-Evans Waterless coolant (@GTSSportCoupe uses Evans, I'm planning to follow in his footsteps)

-Turbo kit from Berrima Diesel. Not using the crossover pipe to airbox

-Delete stock airbox and go to a cone filter

-Install webasto thermo top C in old airbox location

-Moshimoto aluminum radiator (almost double the stock radiator coolant capacity)

-10 blade fan from HD Auto (already installed)

-Heavy Duty clutch kit from Excedy (already installed)

-Australian intake manifold, to accommodate turbo piping

-Rebuilt fuel pump

-New exhaust. I'm probably going to 2.25 inches. Currently my truck is very loud and rattley with a big exhaust leak before the muffler.


More pictures to follow during the new year! Cheers fellas. Very happy with results of rebuild!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Great update, plans and pictures!

Evan's coolant is a bit of a pain, and if you're not towing or really heating your motor a lot it might not be necessary. It transfers heat less efficiently so you'll run overall hotter coolant temps when you really load the motor. But the theory is it keeps the head temps more even which is important under repeated extreme conditions. But also, I'm not sure how cold it gets where you are, but you should read up on the gelling problem that can happen at really low temps.

 

[Miloslavich]

Awesome thread and great work! just read all 7 pages. Well done sir.

Where are you at on the turbo install? I'm also at high altitudes and on the fence about it.

 

[GreenPump]

Another update:

I've been procrastinating on the turbo install, mainly because of how cold it's been. My little wall mounted heater in the garage can't keep up when it's deep in the negatives.

Warm-ish weather this weekend. 35 degrees F during the day Friday and Saturday. So I decided to get some of the turbo project knocked out.

Brand new Moshimoto radiator.

Rebuilt injection pump from Dave at Back40.

ACSD has been deleted.

Intake manifold from an Australian LN106, frame numbers end in PRMSSQ or TRMRSQ. Versus my Japanese frame number ending PRMSS.

 

[GreenPump]

I've been running a spare pump from another 3L diesel truck (LN107 series which is parked for the winter). So the first step was to tear down my timing cover, Intake, and pull the injection pump that's on there back off.

Placed some plastic caps over the injectors to keep them clean.

Here's the two pumps on the workbench.

 

[GreenPump]

Installed the rebuilt pump. Re-did timing belt. What joy. I'm getting pretty good at doing 3L timing belts. Sheesh.

Time to fit the Australian intake manifold. Comparison of the two:

Got it put on.

With my ACSD deleted, I need to cap off the excess coolant lines. Ordered correct size caps. For now, strung up a piece of the old hose.

I was due for another oil and filter change as I just hit 6000km on the rebuilt engine. Toyota filter, and switched over to synthetic now that my rings have seated. Amsoil 10w30 signature series, diesel spec. Flows great in cold temps.

 

[GreenPump]

Moshimoto radiator installed. It fit very well. The only thing they missed was the little bracket which gives the metal lower radiator hose connector something to bolt on to.

I planned to delete my airbox for the webasto to install. Lots of space to the right of new manifold.

Unfortunately the cone filter I bought to sit on the turbo piping was too large. And I wasn't ready to install the turbo yet. So I made some janky bends out of the factory flexible intake hose. It's only temporary anyway...

Also cut a piece of hose for the crankcase breather.

Not pretty. But it will do the job until I slap on the turbo. Which will be soon.

 

[GreenPump]

After completing all of this I went to start up the truck. Pumped some fuel into the lines with the manual push plunger on the fuel filter.

Something is not right. Idle is awful. Once I get the RPMs up, drives fine. But the idle is low. Like 500rpms. And between 500-1000rpms the truck runs like crap. Shuddering, smoking, etc. When the A/C cycles and kicks on the vacuum solenoid located on the pump, the idle shoots up to 1100rpm (which is what it should be at). Previously the truck maybe sat around 800-900rpms when idling.

I took it out on the highway and drove around town a bit. Once again, fine on the road just idling super low at stoplights.

I'm guessing I need to fiddle around with the idle screw on my pump. I would've thought Dave would put everything back to the original settings. Maybe he didn't. Not sure.

I'm a bit frustrated at the moment.

I also thought air might be leaking into the system. But I followed this exact same procedure after my engine rebuild. Pulled a pump from another truck, emptied it of fuel, and put it right back on my truck. No issues.

I am also considering the possibility that the ACSD effected the idle set point, so with that gone I need to manually adjust it.

How annoying.

 

[mudgudgeon]

After completing all of this I went to start up the truck. Pumped some fuel into the lines with the manual push plunger on the fuel filter.

Something is not right. Idle is awful. Once I get the RPMs up, drives fine. But the idle is low. Like 500rpms. And between 500-1000rpms the truck runs like crap. Shuddering, smoking, etc. When the A/C cycles and kicks on the vacuum solenoid located on the pump, the idle shoots up to 1100rpm (which is what it should be at). Previously the truck maybe sat around 800-900rpms when idling.

I took it out on the highway and drove around town a bit. Once again, fine on the road just idling super low at stoplights.

I'm guessing I need to fiddle around with the idle screw on my pump. I would've thought Dave would put everything back to the original settings. Maybe he didn't. Not sure.

I'm a bit frustrated at the moment.

I also thought air might be leaking into the system. But I followed this exact same procedure after my engine rebuild. Pulled a pump from another truck, emptied it of fuel, and put it right back on my truck. No issues.

I am also considering the possibility that the ACSD effected the idle set point, so with that gone I need to manually adjust it.

How annoying.

Looks like good progress.

I would expect you would need to fine tune idle on the engine. I don't think they'd necessarily nail this on the bench.

My old 1hd-t idled great at 650rpm, or 900+rpm.
Between that, idle varied from rough, to down right horrible

 

[Miloslavich]

Nice work! I assume you need to adjust that idle and see if that helps.

why delete the ACSD if you live in a cold climate if it makes for easier cold starts?

also- are you putting in an extended range tank?

 

[GreenPump]

Today I fiddled around with my pump. I called Dave at Back40 and he suggested fiddling with the pump position relative to the mark on the block.

A few things I figured out.

Firstly, when I installed the pump, I pushed it as far counterclockwise as I could, but the mark on the pump was still below the mark on the block. The flange and two 12mm bolts which attach the back of the pump prevented further movement.

I messed around with my spare pump and I realized all four screws on the flange are used for adjustment.

When Dave rebuilt the pump, the bracket changed from the original position. After loosening the top two screws in the picture, I was able to turn the pump and line it up.

Don't mind the spilled coolant...

 

[GreenPump]

The low idle was due to removal of the ACSD system. My ACSD no longer functioned, which was the reason for removal. Plus it's additional coolant lines I could definitely do without.

I find little difference between trucks with the ACSD and those without. Maybe it worked 30 years ago, but it doesn't help now.

Above pictures show my spare pump, which still has ACSD. You can see how the ACSD has pushed forward in front of the idle screw. The air conditioning idle up is part of the same assembly, but functions exactly as normal after the removal of ACSD.

I reassembled everything, started the truck up, and adjusted my idle screws to the factory specs. 700rpm when warmed up, 950rpm for the A/C idle up.

If I really want to idle my truck higher in the morning to help it warm up, I will run the defrost.

Speaking of warming up... I got coolant Ts for my upper and lower lines out of the radiator. They will allow me to plumb in the 3/4" webasto lines. As previously mentioned the webasto thermo top C circulating heater will be sitting in the location of factory airbox. Conveniently located next to batter power, and both sides of the coolant system.

Defintely recommend this dude. I called on Monday, asking for a weird size. He had them in the mail by the end of the day. And they showed up in three days.

Truck is running better than ever now. I was planning to do the turbo this weekend but it doesn't look like it will happen. Been messing with my buddy's gas Hilux.

As for the long range fuel tank. Yes, I am planning to order one along with some other ARB stuff this summer.

 

[GreenPump]

So, I know the 3L is an extremely rattley and loud engine. I've owned three 2.8 Hiluxes and they were all noisy. Over time you learn the sounds they make... on cold mornings the 3L sounds like a bag of angry hammers. That being said this weekend I seem to have some *extra* rattle on acceleration.

Given that I've got an entirely new engine and fuel system, and its definitely top end noise, I'm wondering if there is a valve lash issue. The machine shop assembled my head - its the only part of the operation I didn't do myself. I provided all new Toyota valvetrain parts, and the factory manuals for them to look at.

I'm thinking of cracking the rocker covers and taking a look. But I'm not really sure if it's even an issue.

Anyone have a clip of what Toyota valvetrain noise sounds like?

 

[mudgudgeon]

The match marks on the pump will get you in the ball park for timing only, or maybe in the car park outside the ball park.
You still need to set pump timing, either with dial gauge, or by ear and trial and error

Get timing right, then worry about idle.