7.5" wide rims are considered 8" when calculating BS aren't they? Trying to figure out if the raised axle panhard bracket is worth a shot.
35's vs. 37's
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7.5" wide rims are considered 8" when calculating BS aren't they? Trying to figure out if the raised axle panhard bracket is worth a shot.
FJBen
SILVER Star
thats how I"m going to try and do my rear panhard. Raise it on the axle side.
The truck is really performing nice right now with the drop bracket on the frame. I just need to justify the need if I want to run a tire that basically only gives me another inch.
FJBen
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when do we 80 owners ever need that 
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Don't know on how it's calculated? When I got the rims, measured the stockers, then mounted a Tundra and IIRC the mounted tire center line on the tundra rim was ~1/2" more inset. So my 1.25" spacers are about equal to 3/4" spacers on stock rims.
I have the hardware and metal to make a bolt on bracket, planning on raising it 4-5". Probably wont get it done till after Moab, but looking forward to seeing how much improvement it makes.
Like I said earlier, I drew up the axle with a 4" raise for the panhard and saw an increase of 2" before the tire would scrub the inner well. Since you are 3/4" out from stock it would probably work perfect with stock offset.
Space it up (axle) the same distance as your lift and you will be fine. I will likely only temporarily retain the panhard so I will probably make a bolt on drop bracket since for the frame side since I have more room and places to brace it too.
In the long run I will probably angle both the upper and lower rear control arms in opposite directions. There are some trade offs to the upper Y link.. It is the simplest way to gain low speed articulation and great lateral axle location. I think I have more options as far as setting roll center, anti-squat and keeping the axle square with the frame under acceleration and cornering with the triangluated 4 link.
In the long run I will probably angle both the upper and lower rear control arms in opposite directions. There are some trade offs to the upper Y link.. It is the simplest way to gain low speed articulation and great lateral axle location. I think I have more options as far as setting roll center, anti-squat and keeping the axle square with the frame under acceleration and cornering with the triangluated 4 link.
have you actually done this on an 80?
No I just paid attention in geometry class a couple decades ago.
If the panhard rod is the same length (stock) and the truck is lifted the movement of the axle laterally across the suspensions range of motion is changed.
Put the panhard angle back then the lateral axle movement will be the same as stock. You want it centered on the truck at normal ride height so you dont go down the road dog tracking like some hick in a ford with big lift and stock panhards..
If you have not lowered the bumpstops the same distance as the lift you have gained uptravel and the axle will move laterally more than stock on bump. If you have long travel shocks and great droop the axle will shift more than stock on full extension.
However both scenarios are also present when you dont put the height difference between the panhards back to stock. Its even worse with a adjustable panhard with stock mounting locations.
http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/pictures/80lift-rpb.jpg
http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/pictures/rrpanhardbrcket.jpg
4+ panhard drop.
Looks like I'll forgo a fabing a bolt on. Might just weld on a drop. Then after I eliminate the need for a panhard cut the whole panhard mount off the frame to make room for a dual rate chasis mounted sway bar like on a desert truck. With remote stiff, soft and off settings..
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that would be a NO I guess.
Be careful in assessing raising the axle mount. While this is a superior solution in pretty much every regard, you may not have 4" of clearance on compression, especially on a suspension geared to up travel. I was going to do this, but didn't think I had enough room to do it because you get that mount up into the crossmember in a hurry if you raise it several inches and I'm only on 3.5" of lift.
The more lift you have, the easier this becomes, assuming you also space down the suspension travel to fit those tires properly (which is the solution to running those 37's).
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Funny you mention that Nay. I know that where the panhard is mounted to the axle will have less overall travel than the tire itself but I just took some measurements. My tire has 11" of uptravel before it makes contact with the inner wheelwell. This doesn't account for tire compression once it makes contact and then goes a little further.
If the axle side panhard mount moved 11", it would hit the frame. I can see that geometry class will not provide the answer to this question. I will need to get my rig up on the forklift again and take some measurements. It doesn't look as if modifying the axle side side mount is an option (at least as long as I'm still on 35's).
P.S. Kevin, nice patina on the bumper. You know that powder coat isn't that much don't you? I'll have to perform that same measurement and see what I come up with.
If the axle side panhard mount moved 11", it would hit the frame. I can see that geometry class will not provide the answer to this question. I will need to get my rig up on the forklift again and take some measurements. It doesn't look as if modifying the axle side side mount is an option (at least as long as I'm still on 35's).
P.S. Kevin, nice patina on the bumper. You know that powder coat isn't that much don't you? I'll have to perform that same measurement and see what I come up with.
Kevin, is that a 3" bump stop block?
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Thanks, I worked hard on that!
I can get it powder coated for free, but I hate the stuff and the oxide coating is self healing!Yes.
OK, you have plenty of room to raise that panhard. Here is how I would do this:
1) Figure out the extended length of the Slee coils, and measure the distance between shock mounts with the spring fully extended;
2) With eye adapters costing you 3" of mount distance, choose a high end shock (7100's, Fox, whatever you like) that is fully extended mounted to the eye adapters just before the spring is fully extended. You may stay at a 10" shock, which is plenty to match to a stock front suspension;
3) Calculate the up travel to the shock fully compressed, and see how much less that is than your current L shocks;
4) Compress the suspension only to the point that the new shocks (you haven't bought them yet, just mocking this up) would limit travel;
5) How much room do you have with those 35's to all contact points? That will determine how 37's will fit with spaced down suspension travel. You would adjust bumpstops to protect the shocks once you have them installed. Ignore panhard issues as you can correct with a raised axle end.
To illustrate (I am making up these numbers):
Slee 6" coils fully extended provide 28" shock mount to shock mount. Eye adapters reduce this by 3", so you will have 25" eye to eye.
A 10" 7100 is 26" fully extended, 16" compressed (you have an issue of coil retention). At static ride height, this shock would have 5" of up travel and 5" down (I'm making this up, you need to do the measurements).
Mark your OME L shock and compress the suspension 5". How do those 35's fit? How would 1" to each side extra diameter fit?
With 5" up travel, you know you can raise the axle end panhard mount as you have 6" of clearance. I think with a forklift you can easily make this assessment and know what you are dealing with before spending a dime.
The question I have is not lift to tire size, it's how much the Slee coils will extend to allow spacing down of the suspension travel, and that's what you need to figure out. Make sense? I figure if you reduce up travel by 3" by moving the suspension travel down (your shocks must be at least 7.5-8" up travel right now), you may well find your 37's fit better than your 35's do today. Question is how much spacing down you can achieve.
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I would say, by the time you allow 30mm of crush on the bump stop [std practice in the suspoension world for toyotas] you have around 4.5" of room left.
Now, the ideal place for the panhard rod generally, is to be horizontal at ride height, so the amount of lateral movement of the axle is minimal on the road.
The next step if an A frame isnt your go, would be a watts link.
We have had coils made that stay captive with up to 14" stroke shocks for the rear, so the travel wont see the coils become unseated, and not held captive. These coils have a 80mm taller free height than a normal lift spring of the same height. The vehicle below with A frame has 16" stroke shocks, and the slinky springs we had made for it "rattle" in the seat, almost become non captive. My 80 has 3-4 " coils that stay captive with a 29" shock on the rear.
If you want the a frame, then design like below fits in the standard bush holes on the chassis, and you can remove it and bolt the standard arms back on if required.
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Hypothetically speaking, running a 3" spacer with 37's should net the same results as running a 2" spacer with 35's (concerning the point at which the tire contacts the upper/inner wheel well surface). I had thought I was running 2 1/2" but it turns out that it's only 2".
I just went out and took some pics and measurements and it does look like like raising the axle side panhard mount is a viable option, as it does in Kevin's pics. I have about 5 3/4" until I make contact with the bumpstop and about 10" before the axle would contact the frame. Leaving 3 1/2" of safely usable height. obviously Kevin's pic indicates that there is more than this, but it definately looks do-able.
I just went out and took some pics and measurements and it does look like like raising the axle side panhard mount is a viable option, as it does in Kevin's pics. I have about 5 3/4" until I make contact with the bumpstop and about 10" before the axle would contact the frame. Leaving 3 1/2" of safely usable height. obviously Kevin's pic indicates that there is more than this, but it definately looks do-able.
