AB4F and AB5R. Note the rear are the long travel part #s
35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (3 Viewers)
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AB4F and AB5R. Note the rear are the long travel part #s
Thanks Geoff... possibly a 285/75-17 is the way to go Toyo RT @ 11.3" wide, is what I am thinking but really I need to try one and articulate it.. I would like to keep the RW's since it is a forged wheel, and well what else is? not to mention I have 2 sets of them.. But possibly a change to methods is in my future. +25 may be the ticket, but +0.. is possible with a skinny, maybe.. I will be doing 2.5-3" of lift with OME mat likely once I weight the truck fully..
right now I have zero clearance issues with a RW and 285/70-17 Cooper AT3 XLT.. At 11.4" wide.. but it is 1" smaller (32.83") than the same 285/75-17 (33.82" but also 11.5" wide so not much different in width)...
right now I have zero clearance issues with a RW and 285/70-17 Cooper AT3 XLT.. At 11.4" wide.. but it is 1" smaller (32.83") than the same 285/75-17 (33.82" but also 11.5" wide so not much different in width)...
18’s have better aesthetics imo..17’s are lighter, allow for more sidewall, and allow for lighter tires.
You can have lighter tires or lighter wheels (everything being the same models and/or diameters), not both. Either the wheel is bigger, hence heavier, but the tire sidewall is smaller (makes it lighter) or the wheel is smaller (lighter), but the tire sidewall is taller which makes it heavier.
I don't know what the logic is behind it, but many tires of the same width and diameter (at least as listed by the manufacturers) are heavier in an 18" wheel vs a 17" wheel.
For instance, a Toyo R/T in a 35x12.5R17 is 3lbs lighter (74lbs) than the 35x12.5R18 (77lbs) per Toyo. This is common (but certainly not consistent) for several brands and models after some quick Google-Fu.
So in many cases, the 17" wheel/tire combo will be lighter than the 18" for the same tire size.
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True.
Plus a 1/2" of rubber sidewall does not weigh as much as a 1/2" of metal wheel rim. The drum of the wheel is also larger in a 18" wheel by an amount that I can't remember enough high school math to figure out right now
You'll also find most 18" tires have a higher load rating (very hard to find a C or D 18" tire), so they tend to be heavier just based on the construction of the tire. This is probably the main cause for @bryson observation that a 35x17 is lighter than a 35x18 tire. Hence it's often possible to get a lighter overall package with a 17" wheel. Even within the same tire load categories (e.g. E-load) a 121 E is typically lighter than a 128 E of the same size.
Plus, all other factors being equal, the 17" rim sits 1/2" closer to the hub, reducing the rotating inertia of the wheel rim and drum (easier to accelerate/brake the further inbound the weight is located). Of course, that's purely from a physics standpoint and I'm sure the difference could not possibly be detected by seat-of-the-pants
Plus a 1/2" of rubber sidewall does not weigh as much as a 1/2" of metal wheel rim. The drum of the wheel is also larger in a 18" wheel by an amount that I can't remember enough high school math to figure out right now
You'll also find most 18" tires have a higher load rating (very hard to find a C or D 18" tire), so they tend to be heavier just based on the construction of the tire. This is probably the main cause for @bryson observation that a 35x17 is lighter than a 35x18 tire. Hence it's often possible to get a lighter overall package with a 17" wheel. Even within the same tire load categories (e.g. E-load) a 121 E is typically lighter than a 128 E of the same size.
Plus, all other factors being equal, the 17" rim sits 1/2" closer to the hub, reducing the rotating inertia of the wheel rim and drum (easier to accelerate/brake the further inbound the weight is located). Of course, that's purely from a physics standpoint and I'm sure the difference could not possibly be detected by seat-of-the-pants
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Regarding weight of tire vs rim:
You can look up and compare and contrast…
-size for size the 18” wheel will tend to be heavier. Other than unobtanium/questional load rating volk’s, 28 lbs is as light as it goes w 18’s, vs 24-25 for 17’s unless you go ringless rock warrior, then as low as 21, though they are known to crack.
-size for size the 18” tires will generally be heavier than the 17’s too even though, technically, there may be less rubber. Why? My guess is: If you might visualize the metallic cord of the bead of the tire, that metal part is a circle with an 18” diameter with the 18” tire…and 17” with the 17…which means more metal/weight in the bead of an 18”…and there’s two of those increased metal beads on each tire…and because they’re stretched along a larger area, they likely have to be more stout than the smaller/tighter 17.
Either way, you can look the weights up. 17” tires tend to be lighter, as with wheels.
Wheel/tire weight isn’t the biggest deal, though manufacturers do make a big deal of reducing unsprung weight so it’s not nothing.
18’s to gain aesthetic…and, I forgot to mention, slight rigidity for high speed handling…but 17’s win everywhere else imo.
You can look up and compare and contrast…
-size for size the 18” wheel will tend to be heavier. Other than unobtanium/questional load rating volk’s, 28 lbs is as light as it goes w 18’s, vs 24-25 for 17’s unless you go ringless rock warrior, then as low as 21, though they are known to crack.
-size for size the 18” tires will generally be heavier than the 17’s too even though, technically, there may be less rubber. Why? My guess is: If you might visualize the metallic cord of the bead of the tire, that metal part is a circle with an 18” diameter with the 18” tire…and 17” with the 17…which means more metal/weight in the bead of an 18”…and there’s two of those increased metal beads on each tire…and because they’re stretched along a larger area, they likely have to be more stout than the smaller/tighter 17.
Either way, you can look the weights up. 17” tires tend to be lighter, as with wheels.
Wheel/tire weight isn’t the biggest deal, though manufacturers do make a big deal of reducing unsprung weight so it’s not nothing.
18’s to gain aesthetic…and, I forgot to mention, slight rigidity for high speed handling…but 17’s win everywhere else imo.
By my research, mostly of teckis300’s threads, 35 is actually the optimum offset for fitting fat tall tires.
25 just happens to be more common and available.
If I had to completely redo my wheel and tire package I would be running the 17” method mr705’s on 35 offset. They’re 25 lbs, have bead grip technology, and can be had for relatively low prices when they run sales.
im about to pull trigger on 706 17 with 35 off set, they only have 4 but its 200 a wheel
Not bad.
It has the bead grip, $200 is a relatively low price, 28 lbs is considered by some to be a lightweight wheel (definitely not overly heavy), offset is right, styling isn’t bad
Too bad you can’t get a 5th and have a fully rotatable spare.
I’m getting a matte black spare same wheel just different color. Wife wants bronze and they have 4
Over the life of your tires, they’ll often lose about 16/32nds of tread on each side…meaning they’ll shrink by 32/32nds…or an inch.
So unless you’re rotating your spare, by the end, you’ll have 4 33.5” tires…and a spare 34.5” tire.
If you plan on not having a spare you rotate, you might be better served with a slightly worn 34.1” tire…a used 275 65 20 would be a good option, especially if you’ve already got a 20” oem wheel.
I have the stock 20" wheels with new tires. I planned to only use the methods while going on adventures. I could do 5 matte black wheels not sure how I feel about that with the Silver lx i have.
Matte black whees look good on any colored vehicle imo.
I think gold/bronze wheels look good on most any too.
Another option might be to go ahead and order the off color wheel and put a half worn 35” tire on it.
It wouldn’t rotate (unless you wanted an off color wheel on there) but The upside to this is it would actually fit under the vehicle in the spare location-a full brand new 35” tire will not.
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Yes, the load rating will make a difference in weight on a tire. That is why I mentioned if all else is the same the 17 should be heavier than an 18. Comparing 2 different load rated tires should not be compared.
As far as braking and inertia goes, the outside of the tire itself is where most of the weight and rotating mass is. 17 or 18 rims would be inconsequential.
As far as braking and inertia goes, the outside of the tire itself is where most of the weight and rotating mass is. 17 or 18 rims would be inconsequential.
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Markuson
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I run 285/75/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on Rock Warriors with 1.25” hub-centri spacers. Have run these spacers for year with no issue. When to this tire after running 12.5” 35’s for several years. Dropping let me get rid of my KDSS relo kit (which leads to tweaked end links without some other custom tweaks).
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