35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (3 Viewers)

[afgman786]

Who's LC is on 35s without the front factory strut spacers? Got my 200 in the shop getting front end work done and contemplating asking them to remove the spacer since I'm getting new LCA and steering rack.
Shock hits frame at full droop and definitely pushing those CVs and the boots to wear premature.
Looking for photos of how it'll look and hub to fender measurements please. I'm currently sitting around 25" hub to fender

 

[Markuson]

Who's LC is on 35s without the front factory strut spacers? Got my 200 in the shop getting front end work done and contemplating asking them to remove the spacer since I'm getting new LCA and steering rack.
Shock hits frame at full droop and definitely pushing those CVs and the boots to wear premature.
Looking for photos of how it'll look and hub to fender measurements please. I'm currently sitting around 25" hub to fender

My 1.5 cents…and no claim of expertise… Just thoughts—

I’ve never used strut spacers…neither with stock shocks, nor to level with my aftermarket set. Not arguing they are bad. But there are some reasons to avoid in my opinion, with a couple exception (and also a nod to aesthetics… which some folks just prefer. Nothing wrong with that if tgats just what you’re after).

You’ll often maintain better over-all handling with a bit of forward lean, so in my personal opinion, aside from a popular aesthetic preference many have for leveling the front with the back…I think its usually a good performance move to skip strut spacers anyway.

The one reason I could get behind for rhem would be a where you want to reduce coilo er preload for a more compliant/soft ride…but orevent tge lowering that happens when oreload is reduced. In other words, strut spacers are a way to maintain height in feont when reducing preload for a softer compression.

As always, deont end suspension Q almost never have an obvious answer. So many variables and personal preferences for what = the “perfect balance.”

 

[TeCKis300]

Who's LC is on 35s without the front factory strut spacers? Got my 200 in the shop getting front end work done and contemplating asking them to remove the spacer since I'm getting new LCA and steering rack.
Shock hits frame at full droop and definitely pushing those CVs and the boots to wear premature.
Looking for photos of how it'll look and hub to fender measurements please. I'm currently sitting around 25" hub to fender

Not all spacers work the same. Depends if it's a coil spacer or shock spacer. Shock spacers, that are the factory spacer does not add preload. It just changes ride height. On factory shocks, it works great to change ride height without preload. Another huge benefit is that it increases droop travel and overall suspension travel. ~10" total to match the rear suspension stroke.

That said, I would remove the spacer with aftermarket shocks. The complication there is that aftermarket shocks assume no spacers. They typically already have designed in extra travel and droop. And most have adjustable perches.

This is a great video on the subject

 

[Spinedoc44]

315/70r17 Ridge Grapplers. Sensor lift. Straightforward mudflap trimming. Blown away at how easy it is to fit dirty fives on the LX!

 

[Spinedoc44]

Couple action shots from Tahoe National Forest and BLM land east of Reno from last weekend.

 

[jeep2cruiser]

315/70 17

 

[Rpreme]

315/70 17

View attachment 3024083

Beautiful!

How big of a spacer are you running? KDSS arm rub?

 

[jeep2cruiser]

Beautiful!

How big of a spacer are you running? KDSS arm rub?

1.25in spacer and slight KDSS rub! I have the relocation brackets that I’ll put on soon. I’m very impressed how the truck handles the tires with no regear.

 

[Gary200akaJimmy]

275/60R20 KO2s to 295/65R20 Ridge Grapplers. Gotta do some more trimming and then play around with the levels, probably bump N up a half inch or so.
View attachment 2921537
View attachment 2921546

Looks like the San Antonio area. I grew up there but live in Dallas now. One of my good friends has a black LX and is SAPD. Great guy

 

[Idaho Savage]

I went back to 34's and I'm pretty happy about it. That is NOT to say 35's didn't work...they did. But you can count me as one of those folks who feel like our rigs are happiest at the magic 34". She feels a little more peppy and and a little better centered.

I'll keep the Kenda/Icon set for winter driving but bird hunting is now taking me to some pretty muddy deserts, so the MTs are in season.

285/75 R17 Toyo M/T with Fifteen 52 wheels. KDSS relo and some trimming/pressing done previously for the Kendas.

 

[highfructose]

I don’t know if I’ve posted here but I recently did 35’s on a swing away and decided the hassle of messing w the tire on the swing away wasn’t worth it.

I ended up doing what teckis300 did and put a 275 65 r20 in the spare tire location.

I measured that spare tire are under the car repeatedly and it looks like 34.1” (actual tire size on the wheel) is about as big as you can fit under there without hitting the panhard bar.

A worn slightly worn cooper discoverer 275 65 r20 measured in at 33.9” on the rim and easily fit. The kenda 35x10.5r17’s measured 34.75” on the wheel (34.5” on the wheel under weight of the vehicle).

Photo of a mounted brand new kenda and a mounted 275 65 r20 for comparison.

For anyone trying to do the 35’s, it’s not very likely the spare will fit under the car.

On long road trips I plan to bring the full size spare either on the swing away or on a trailer…but for normal driving, I’m hoping a 33.9” tire, inflated to 65 psi…and a few 34.75” tires inflated to 27-30 psi…should get me home to my full size spare.

 

[YellowJacket]

I’m running 35x12.50R17 Nittos.

 

[linuxgod]

I chunked up my 34s (285/75r17) Nitto RGs in Moab, so time to figure out how to fit 35s. My 34s on +25 offset fit with zero rubbing. All the usual minor adjustments done plus KDSS relo.

For those who have gone to 35x12.5 on my offset (or really close), a few questions for you:

1. Did you extend the bump stops? If so by how much? I have durobumps (active stops like Timbren) but to my knowledge they still full compress so I’m going to presumably need a tiny spacer/washer.

2. Do you still have KDSS rubbing even with the relo kit? I have some aluminum bar stock that I may use to make my own sway bar spacers which are another 1/2” further to help with clearance, but I’m curious how many of you rub

3. lop off the bottom of that seat belt bolt which sticks into the rear wheel well?

4. Has anyone needed a body mount chop?

5. How do 35x12.5 tires stuff in the rear when going straight? I’m not worried about when flexing one side, but with the trailer attached I’m concerned a good highway bounce will push them squarely into the rear fenders

Pretty sure if I go 35x11.5 that #5 won’t apply but there are limited tire options in that size

 

[YellowJacket]

Great questions and ideas @linuxgod.

As you know, I am (now) running 315/70R17 BFG A/T KO2s. I have NOT done anything with the seat belt bolt, the KDSS, or the bump stops. I DID however do the body mount chop, but that’s really it.

 

[YellowJacket]

Upon full stuff, it does kiss the rear body.

Maybe I got lucky. Maybe it’s too soon. But I now feel 35s should be the norm for the 200.

 

[Heckraiser]

BFGs also run a little smaller in most sizes, which is probably handy for borderline fitment.

 

[TeCKis300]

I chunked up my 34s (285/75r17) Nitto RGs in Moab, so time to figure out how to fit 35s. My 34s on +25 offset fit with zero rubbing. All the usual minor adjustments done plus KDSS relo.

For those who have gone to 35x12.5 on my offset (or really close), a few questions for you:

1. Did you extend the bump stops? If so by how much? I have durobumps (active stops like Timbren) but to my knowledge they still full compress so I’m going to presumably need a tiny spacer/washer.

2. Do you still have KDSS rubbing even with the relo kit? I have some aluminum bar stock that I may use to make my own sway bar spacers which are another 1/2” further to help with clearance, but I’m curious how many of you rub

3. lop off the bottom of that seat belt bolt which sticks into the rear wheel well?

4. Has anyone needed a body mount chop?

5. How do 35x12.5 tires stuff in the rear when going straight? I’m not worried about when flexing one side, but with the trailer attached I’m concerned a good highway bounce will push them squarely into the rear fenders

Pretty sure if I go 35x11.5 that #5 won’t apply but there are limited tire options in that size

Hope I can be an enabler as I want to see the beast wear 35s! It'll put all that gearing to good use.

1) Bump stops IMO are a separate consideration. Where they conflate is with too aggressive an offset that you'll need limit compression travel to keep the tires off the fenders. The way I'm seeing most builds use bump stops are for the latter and I know you'd like to preserve as much travel. +25 offset is normalized in LC builds as they commonly use narrower 275/285 tires, but with full width meats, higher offsets can really help to make almost 1/2" more clearance against the fender. I also prioritize travel and even with +35 offset, I've had to incrementally roll the fender lips to clear 35x12.5s for full uptravel. On the inside +35 It'll require narrower profile UCAs which I think you have?

2) Will let LC owners comment

3) Yes, I did this early based on other comments and looks to be a non-issue

4) Do this. It's really trivial having done it a few times now. Find a Toyota shop that mods Tacos/4Rs/Tundras and it's as regular as an oil change. Don't use alignment to avoid this as that could create CV binding unnecessarily. Lower offset can also exasperate the need for more BMC.

5) See answer to #1

 

[linuxgod]

Hope I can be an enabler as I want to see the beast wear 35s! It'll put all that gearing to good use.

1) Bump stops IMO are a separate consideration. Where they conflate is with too aggressive an offset that you'll need limit compression travel to keep the tires off the fenders. The way I'm seeing most builds use bump stops are for the latter and I know you'd like to preserve as much travel. +25 offset is normalized in LC builds as they commonly use narrower 275/285 tires, but with full width meats, higher offsets can really help to make almost 1/2" more clearance against the fender. I also prioritize travel and even with +35 offset, I've had to incrementally roll the fender lips to clear 35x12.5s for full uptravel. On the inside +35 It'll require narrower profile UCAs which I think you have?

2) Will let LC owners comment

3) Yes, I did this early based on other comments and looks to be a non-issue

4) Do this. It's really trivial having done it a few times now. Find a Toyota shop that mods Tacos/4Rs/Tundras and it's as regular as an oil change. Don't use alignment to avoid this as that could create CV binding unnecessarily. Lower offset can also exasperate the need for more BMC.

5) See answer to #1

Yeah I’m concerned you had to make space at +35 offset. I’m a full 10mm further out. I’m not replacing my wheels, so that might mean I have to deal with the limited 10.5 and 11.5” width options… which probably means buying Nitto RGs again.

 

[TLC2013]

I'll cast my vote for the kenda klever RT in 35x10.5xr17. The klever RTs measure wide for their respective size so don't be scared by the 10.5 advertised width. My experience with their 275 width RTs had them measuring the same width as my 285 yokohama MTs. They are a super tough tire and held up way better to chunking and sidewall damage then what I am seeing out of the yokohama G003 MTs. A little dissapointed in the durability of the Yokos.

The 35x10.5xr17 measure over 11 inches in width and are only 1/4" narrower then your 285 nittos.
First image are the specs for the kendas and the second is the nittos.

You can find the kendas too for between $260 and $300 a tire.

 

[bryson]

I'll cast my vote for the kenda klever RT in 35x10.5xr17. The klever RTs measure wide for their respective size so don't be scared by the 10.5 advertised width. My experience with their 275 width RTs had them measuring the same width as my 285 yokohama MTs. They are a super tough tire and held up way better to chunking and sidewall damage then what I am seeing out of the yokohama G003 MTs. A little dissapointed in the durability of the Yokos.

The 35x10.5xr17 measure over 11 inches in width and are only 1/4" narrower then your 285 nittos.
First image are the specs for the kendas and the second is the nittos.

You can find the kendas too for between $260 and $300 a tire.

View attachment 3381568

View attachment 3381569

Those Kendas in the 35x10.50r17 measure a disappointingly tiny 33.4" tall in my experience. Stick with the Nittos if you want something closer to advertised size. It bothers the hell out of me that many tire manufacturers can't stick closer to advertised sizes (I'm looking at you BFG...)

But on the plus side, if all you're after is the "35" on the sidewall, the Kendas or BFGs are the easiest way to accomplish that.