$2300 Quote from Maaco....what do you guys think? (1 Viewer)

[FMC80]

Thanks - but I’m not sure how to find a post by number.


That 80 is going to have a better than showroom finish when you’re done with it!

I really like the sanded finish of the first picture. Almost like a metallic camo.

I responded to your PM. Also, just open the hyper link and look on the upper right hand corner. You’ll see a # and a corresponding number for the post. That is the post number. Look for #433 and #434. Just scroll down after selecting my hyperlink and you’ll run right into what I’m talking about.

 

[Andrew Bluemel]

Just wanted to add my two cents now I can say I have a $2500 MAACO job. All I can say is wow. They absolutely killed it!

My original paint was worse than bad. It had a ton of deep scratches and bird crap that had been oxidized into the paint. The paint was terrible when I bought it 7 years ago and I did nothing but add to it. I originally took my truck into the Maaco down in Colorado Springs for them to repaint it around a year ago, and honestly I got cold feet just talking to the guy for five minutes. He didn’t seem interested in the cruiser or what I wanted out of it the new paint job. So I bailed. Fast forward to a month ago and I found a Maaco up in commerce city in Denver and I was scrolling through the reviews (which they were rated a 4.8) and there are two separate Google reviews with FJ60s with very satisfied customers. So I drove the 2 hours up there and got an estimate and the lady who I talked to walked around my truck for about 45 minutes and really listened to what I wanted. So I decided to go for it.

The deal was I would pull everything off and I wanted them to do as much bodywork as possible and keep me in the $2500 price range. For $2500 I was getting their mid tier paint job with a 4 year warranty.

After I dropped off the truck, I was going back and forth on having them def-flare the truck and weld up all the holes. A few days after I dropped of the truck the Maaco owner called me and said it wasn’t a good idea for them to do that sort of job and he didn’t feel comfortable with it, which I totally respected. So I did bring up the question if they would be willing to get new Toyota gaskets and clips and install the fender flares for me. I pulled them off and they were sitting in the back of the truck upon my drop off they said they were willing to do it and I’m so glad they did. They were able to get all the flares to line up like factory and they were able to get the original Toyota gasket seals, clips, and the flares look brand new.

I honestly think it’s the best $2500 I have ever spent on the truck. I really wish 5 years ago when I wanted to be the cool kid in highschool I got it repainted instead of messing with regearing it and putting bumpers on it.

Cheers

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Maybe someone will add more to my post. Apparently there is one painter at a Marco in the Dallas area that is as good as any painter. I just can’t remember who.

 

[1973Guppie]

"grind and fill"....I am guessing they are going to grind out the rust and fill those spaces with bondo, rust will come back quickly. I would take it to someone to flush well repair the metal first before getting it painted.

 

[booradley]

Tagging into this thread:

Looks like I am heading into a Maaco paint job soon. My local shop gets very good reviews and if they make me feel fuzzy when I talk to them I am going for it.

(1) is it best to remove the flares and let them paint them separately? My gaskets are shot and will be replaced. Any other spots to consider?

(2) my truck is a project truck, and is (was) Dark Emerald Pearl. Paint is totally shot, and I have replaced the rear hatch with a white one. So it is a blank canvas. The truck will never win a show but it is not a beater; the body is totally straight. Should I stay with original color due to engine bay and door sills, etc., or could I go crazy? I think Riverrock Green would be legit on one of these.

I am going to do whatever I want but opinions and advice always appreciated.

 

[Heckraiser]

Yes, remove the flares if you can do so without damaging them, replace the flare gaskets with new after the paint job. My Maaco just painted over the old cracked gaskets. I would remove anything else that's easy enough to do so also like grille, lights, handles, etc.

I personally would stick with the original color for sills and engine bay to match. Might retain a little more long-term value that way as well.

 

[jpoole]

@booradley keep us posted. Bham is close enough that if you get a great job done it could be worth the drive if I decide to do a full respray on my 80.

Color match or complimentary color does seem best to me because of door jambs, engine bay, etc. Maybe an alternate green that is close enough could work but there's some risk you won't like the contrast over time. The original dark green looks great when in good shape in my opinion so for me the color change wouldn't be worth it.

 

[FMC80]

Agreed with the above. Remove everything that is accessible. Stay with emerald green. It is such a beautiful color when taken care of.

 

[booradley]

@booradley keep us posted. Bham is close enough that if you get a great job done it could be worth the drive if I decide to do a full respray on my 80.

Color match or complimentary color does seem best to me because of door jambs, engine bay, etc. Maybe an alternate green that is close enough could work but there's some risk you won't like the contrast over time. The original dark green looks great when in good shape in my opinion so for me the color change wouldn't be worth it.

OK. When I said “soon” it may be 6-9 months (ha). I am actually super-pumped today. I bought the truck in April for $2500 with a seized motor and drove it for the first time yesterday with a new (to me) 1FZ-FE that runs great so I’m spitballing what to do next.

But the paint is so bad my HOA is going to target me so something will have to be done “soon.”

 

[CharlieS]

Tagging into this thread:

Looks like I am heading into a Maaco paint job soon. My local shop gets very good reviews and if they make me feel fuzzy when I talk to them I am going for it.

(1) is it best to remove the flares and let them paint them separately? My gaskets are shot and will be replaced. Any other spots to consider?

(2) my truck is a project truck, and is (was) Dark Emerald Pearl. Paint is totally shot, and I have replaced the rear hatch with a white one. So it is a blank canvas. The truck will never win a show but it is not a beater; the body is totally straight. Should I stay with original color due to engine bay and door sills, etc., or could I go crazy? I think Riverrock Green would be legit on one of these.

I am going to do whatever I want but opinions and advice always appreciated.

I would absolutely remove everything removable, especially the flares. Similarly with door handles - the seals aren't available separately, and it looks like crap when they get painted over and then the paint on the rubber fails over time.

Prior owners of my 80 cut all kinds of corners spraying over everything and it looks horrible.

Color change is really about how much having mismatched jambs (and potentially overspray with a place like Maaco) bothers you. If you don't care, or they are great at masking, then it is really about personal choice.

I've painted several vehicles at home and it is all about preparation and body work. Anyone can lay down passable paint.

 

[CharlieS]

OK. When I said “soon” it may be 6-9 months (ha). I am actually super-pumped today. I bought the truck in April for $2500 with a seized motor and drove it for the first time yesterday with a new (to me) 1FZ-FE that runs great so I’m spitballing what to do next.

But the paint is so bad my HOA is going to target me so something will have to be done “soon.”

I read about these HOAs (we live in a rural area in a standalone home with no HOA). They can even demand that you repaint your vehicles?

 

[booradley]

I read about these HOAs (we live in a rural area in a standalone home with no HOA). They can even demand that you repaint your vehicles?

No I was just being sarcastic they can’t make me repaint my truck. But the thing looks like a sh*tbox now and we (me included) try to keep things within reason around here.

 

[FMC80]

I read about these HOAs (we live in a rural area in a standalone home with no HOA). They can even demand that you repaint your vehicles?

No I was just being sarcastic they can’t make me repaint my truck. But the thing looks like a sh*tbox now and we (me included) try to keep things within reason around here.

Lmao, I thought you were serious about your HOA. I am unaware of what an HOA can impose on you.

Long ago, I got cited for leaving our trash can in front of our fence vs. behind it. I despised HOAs back then, but since, I’ve seen plenty of trashy neighbors wreaking havoc on a neighborhood. HOAs typically keep the riffraff out and they can serve a good purpose. They’re still annoying af.

Back to tech, good call @CharlieS about the door handle gaskets. Those are usually trashed after 25-30 years and need replacing anyway. Not good to paint over them.

If you have a roof rack, I’d remove it and ask them to weld/seal up the holes up there and ensure the rust is mitigated.

 

[Seneca]

Jumping into the fray here as well. *Considering*
a Maaco respray of the original Moonglow Pearl (1A6) in the Bellingham, Bremerton, Bellevue, yada yada Maaco shops in WA state. Looks like Bellevue and Bremerton get the best rating (online), but from what I read, the Bellingham and Bellevue shops are owned by the same people.

My paint is in okay-ish shape. The roof is fried, and there are dings, scratches, etc. with little bare metal (rust) spots exposed (like… rock chip size), but my main concern is a rusty (only superficial for now) fist size dent beneath the rear left taillight.

So I’m looking to get the respray in order to combat the risk of the rust cancer spreading.

To those in the know, would the Maaco respray (and… I assume sanding and proper priming of the rusty spots) be able to keep the rust at bay? I’m not having them repair the dents, but I just want the rust sanded out and painted over to protect from more rust (assuming I’m even correct in thinking that would work).

As for must-removes:

• fender flares
• door handles (because they have their own gaskets)
• lights
• bumpers
• roof rack
• misc. Attachments (I assume)

… did I miss anything?

 

[sedonut]

Most any paint will help prevent rust. If the rust is removed and a good base/primer the rust prevention will work better.

If you do not prepare the surface, the paint till not stick and just make a nice layer to hold the moisture against the metal thereby promoting rust. The goal is to prevent moisture and air to touch the metal and allow rust.

If you are not going to fix the dents. I would not spend money on a Maaco respray. A good sanding, primer and roll on bedliner works and is a lot cheaper.

To those in the know, would the Maaco respray (and… I assume sanding and proper priming of the rusty spots) be able to keep the rust at bay? I’m not having them repair the dents, but I just want the rust sanded out and painted over to protect from more rust (assuming I’m even correct in thinking that would work).

 

[Kernal]

FWIW had the the windshield "frame" area painted to include blending into the first few inches of roof on my 96 model while the windshield was out some years ago. It was mostly surface rust with some pitting (no holes) in the channel where the gasket sits. The shop said they "killed" the rust before painting but it's starting to come back with small rust "bubbles" appearing from under the gasket.

Point is, rust is hard to get rid of permanently and most shops may do just enough to keep the rust at bay for 3, 5, 7 years (length of any warranty) but unless it's done right the rust will come back.

Really don't want to pull the (new at that time) OEM windshield but that's the only option.

 

[booradley]

They let me go check it out before they spray it. Fingers are crossed:

 

[Kernal]

You're in Alabama so maybe no rust under the windshield and rear glass but IMHO/IME those two locations tend to have rust under the gasket, especially the windshield if it's been replaced in the past. So sometimes it may be better to remove that glass (if done by a glass shop) and then replaced after the vehicle is painted.

Can't tell from the photos if they're taped off, but the very long drip rail moldings could be (very carefully) taken off so they could paint the metal underneath, then replace the moldings.

The "roof gutter" is actually a seam where the roof panel was attached to the rest of the body and there's factory seam sealer in that gutter which cracks with age. That should be removed if cracked badly as there could be rust underneath, or at a minimum new seam sealer could be applied before painting. Not an autobody expert however.

The problem with removing the drip rail moldings IME however is that unless 2-3 people handle those nine foot long thin moldings to ensure they don't get bent, then they will get damaged. If one person removes them by himself they will bend (and kink) under their own weight, guaranteed. So maybe best to leave them alone unless it's done right.

FWIW

 

[booradley]

You're in Alabama so maybe no rust under the windshield and rear glass but IMHO/IME those two locations tend to have rust under the gasket, especially the windshield if it's been replaced in the past. So sometimes it may be better to remove that glass (if done by a glass shop) and then replaced after the vehicle is painted.

Can't tell from the photos if they're taped off, but the very long drip rail moldings could be (very carefully) taken off so they could paint the metal underneath, then replace the moldings.

The "roof gutter" is actually a seam where the roof panel was attached to the rest of the body and there's factory seam sealer in that gutter which cracks with age. That should be removed if cracked badly as there could be rust underneath, or at a minimum new seam sealer could be applied before painting. Not an autobody expert however.

The problem with removing the drip rail moldings IME however is that unless 2-3 people handle those nine foot long thin moldings to ensure they don't get bent, then they will get damaged. If one person removes them by himself they will bend (and kink) under their own weight, guaranteed. So maybe best to leave them alone unless it's done right.

FWIW

Long story short: truck spent time in Michigan and the back hatch was shot and replaced with a southern Lexus hatch. The rear window is out right now (only a spot of rust under the gasket that is getting fixed before the window goes back in). I took the roof rack off and surprisingly no rust. The rails are staying off but the ribs are staying on. I looked at the drip rails and didn't see anything horrible so I'm not messing with them.

 

[CharlieS]

They let me go check it out before they spray it. Fingers are crossed:

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I don't get why they would mask lights instead of just removing them for the time it would have taken. I guarantee masking took longer than removing them. So bizarre to me.