2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (2 Viewers)

[bloc]

For tranny fluid I'd highly recommend Amsoil. Also not sure what ya mean by force tranny fluid out, but in an AT vehicle, I wouldn't recommend a transmission flush (fine for most MT vehicles, not for AT). Just drain the old fluid and top off with Amsoil. I'm sure you're already in the know, but anything having to do with oils, the experts are at bobistheoilguy forum....lotsa industry folks and oldschool oil guys there. They know they shizz. Aloha!

I took it as just trying to get all the fluid out of the cooler located in the radiator tank for measurement so they could add that amount back to the transmission.

 

[grinchy]

For tranny fluid I'd highly recommend Amsoil. Also not sure what ya mean by force tranny fluid out, but in an AT vehicle, I wouldn't recommend a transmission flush (fine for most MT vehicles, not for AT). Just drain the old fluid and top off with Amsoil. I'm sure you're already in the know, but anything having to do with oils, the experts are at bobistheoilguy forum....lotsa industry folks and oldschool oil guys there. They know they shizz. Aloha!

I took it as just trying to get all the fluid out of the cooler located in the radiator tank for measurement so they could add that amount back to the transmission.

Yeah, I just didn’t want to create a Transmission temp or gear issue by running it low on fluid.
I’ve got a drain/fill (pan on) on the spring plan and will top it up then.
I’m running bog standard compatible tranny fluid and just plan to do a drain fill every couple oil changes.

 

[mceagle555]

After 4 radiators, I finally have mine fixed!

#1 - 2008 OEM w/ infamous crack
#2 - Damaged in shipping
#3 - Damaged in shipping
#4 - Good to go (Requested dealership to double-box it)

While I was in there, replaced:

1. Radiator
2. New upper & lower radiator hoses
3. Serpentine belt
4. Tensioner pulley
5. Fan Bracket
6. Fan clutch
7. Water Pump
8. Idler Pulley
9. Thermostat

 

[MHFJ]

I can confirm that. Mines an 18 bought in March of 18 and has the old radiator style. Only 55k so far but no sign of a crack yet. Trying to prepare myself best I can for self replacement sometime in the next 50k when it inevitably blows the lid. I've never done that level of car wrenching before so this thread with all the writeups is awesome.

I just bought an 18 built 12/17 and it is the old style. I looked at an 18 built 5/18 and it was the new style.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I just bought an 18 built 12/17 and it is the old style. I looked at an 18 built 5/18 and it was the new style.

Mine is 01/18 and has the old style radiator. I'm pondering doing the JB-Weld fix proactively.

 

[AnyMal]

After 4 radiators, I finally have mine fixed!

#1 - 2008 OEM w/ infamous crack
#2 - Damaged in shipping
#3 - Damaged in shipping
#4 - Good to go (Requested dealership to double-box it)

While I was in there, replaced:

1. Radiator
2. New upper & lower radiator hoses
3. Serpentine belt
4. Tensioner pulley
5. Fan Bracket
6. Fan clutch
7. Water Pump
8. Idler Pulley
9. Thermostat

View attachment 3294049
View attachment 3294051

View attachment 3294052

Nice! Total time?

 

[FxFormat]

2013 with 160K miles, I don’t see any cracks in the usual spot, but this looks to be the old style radiator not the updated one. Maybe previous owner replaced it with the older version or could be original

 

[mceagle555]

Nice! Total time?

If you don't factor in having to wait for new radiators and random stuck bolts, about 8 hours taking your time. I tend to be a perfectionist.

A few tips that helped me:

1. Use a long flat blade screwdriver wedged between the fan bolts to hold the assembly in place when removing the other bolts.
2. Make sure to connect the lower radiator hose BEFORE installing the new radiator
3. When installing the new radiator, detach the passenger side bracket and install the bracket to the LC/LX first. Then install the radiator with the driver's side bracket still installed.
4. When installing the new radiator and it is halfway in, carefully spin the fan blade to allow the radiator hose attachments to slip past
5. Once you've installed the new radiator 90% of the way, climb under the rig to push up on the fan shroud to get it past the hose attachment points.
6. Long needle nose pliers are your friend

 

[Blackford Oakes]

Well, fudge.

2013 80k.

The eternal question lingers…. To JB weld or to order a radiator? Local Toyota dealership wants MSRP ($436?). Lagrange Toyota has it for under $300 but over $100 to ship. Toyota Parts Deal is at $303 plus $43 shipping but I’d rather not have one shipped from that far away. It’ll likely get damaged in transit.

I know I have some time before she blows, but…. ugh

 

[NKP Garage]

Well, fudge.

2013 80k.

The eternal question lingers…. To JB weld or to order a radiator? Local Toyota dealership wants MSRP ($436?). Lagrange Toyota has it for under $300 but over $100 to ship. Toyota Parts Deal is at $303 plus $43 shipping but I’d rather not have one shipped from that far away. It’ll likely get damaged in transit.

I know I have some time before she blows, but…. ugh

Get one ordered from your source of choice and use some JBWeld 8297 in the meantime to keep it safe. This is the specific one you want o use. It's the high heat putty, works great on just about everything and rock solid.
-

https://amzn.to/3I3ymOF

Good luck!

 

[TheForger]

Get one ordered from your source of choice and use some JBWeld 8297 in the meantime to keep it safe. This is the specific one you want o use. It's the high heat putty, works great on just about everything and rock solid.

Wish I would've known about this stuff when the radiator in my 100 series cracked along the top. I used regular JB weld as well as some high pressure gasket maker but they both failed.

 

[NKP Garage]

Wish I would've known about this stuff when the radiator in my 100 series cracked along the top. I used regular JB weld as well as some high pressure gasket maker but they both failed.

I always have 2 tubes of that stuff, 1 in the toolbox, and 1 in my "oh sh*t" box in the trunk. Super handy to get you out of an emergency situation. And have even seen it last years on some backyard fixed.

 

[grinchy]

I found my local Toyota parts counter would negotiate on large orders if I provided them a price to target / competitor price. Especially if it was another local Toyota dealer. Can usually get 20-30%.

 

[AnyMal]

Well, fudge.

2013 80k.

The eternal question lingers…. To JB weld or to order a radiator? Local Toyota dealership wants MSRP ($436?). Lagrange Toyota has it for under $300 but over $100 to ship. Toyota Parts Deal is at $303 plus $43 shipping but I’d rather not have one shipped from that far away. It’ll likely get damaged in transit.

I know I have some time before she blows, but…. ugh


View attachment 3320306

Easy. Get the redesigned rad for $400 and never ever have to think about it again.

 

[mceagle555]

Well, fudge.

2013 80k.

The eternal question lingers…. To JB weld or to order a radiator? Local Toyota dealership wants MSRP ($436?). Lagrange Toyota has it for under $300 but over $100 to ship. Toyota Parts Deal is at $303 plus $43 shipping but I’d rather not have one shipped from that far away. It’ll likely get damaged in transit.

I know I have some time before she blows, but…. ugh


View attachment 3320306

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Cheapest shipping & price I've found.

Put in the notes to ask them to double-box it.

 

[t4r2lx570]

Easy. Get the redesigned rad for $400 and never ever have to think about it again.

I agree that replacing the radiator is the best course of action, but in researching how to do it myself I could never get a good answer as to how much transmission fluid I would lose and need to replace during the project. So in the interim, since my crack was not through the wall yet, I meticulously applied a JB weld patch that has held very well. I actually used the plastic bond that is good up to 250°.

 

[AnyMal]

I agree that replacing the radiator is the best course of action, but in researching how to do it myself I could never get a good answer as to how much transmission fluid I would lose and need to replace during the project. So in the interim, since my crack was not through the wall yet, I meticulously applied a JB weld patch that has held very well. I actually used the plastic bond that is good up to 250°.View attachment 3320379

View attachment 3320378

I really should be doing that too since it looks like ill never get around to tearing it apart.

 

[arock]

I’ve read through the post in its entirety once and thought I saw pics of old vs new radiators but wasn’t able to find it again when I skimmed back through. Anyone know if this is an updated model?

 

[Matthew810]

I’ve read through the post in its entirety once and thought I saw pics of old vs new radiators but wasn’t able to find it again when I skimmed back through. Anyone know if this is an updated model?
View attachment 3320796

That looks like the old design to me. I think the new design softened those hard edges on the bottom corners which is where the weak spots are.

 

[bloc]

That looks like the old design to me. I think the new design softened those hard edges on the bottom corners which is where the weak spots are.

I agree.