2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

[bloc]

nice! Another technique I use is to crack all four loose with the screwdriver counterhold technique and don't remove any of them until all are turning easily.

This. As long as they are still not backed out appreciably the shank of the bolt won’t bend and no damage is being done.

 

[grinchy]

This. As long as they are still not backed out appreciably the shank of the bolt won’t bend and no damage is being done.

yeah, I was worried the screwdriver would skate off the bolt heads and crack my knuckles. I’m replacing the pump anyhow, so wasn’t worried about thread damage.

 

[grinchy]

Got the water housing, water pump and fan bracket off.
I didn’t take the lowest bolt on the hard pipes all the way out, I didn’t see how I could get it back in.
I did take off the two bolts on the hard pipe that goes up and along the right side of the engine. That gave slack for the short elbow on the water housing.
The fan bracket bottom bolt behind the hard lines barely came out as I left that lower hard line bolt partly in.
Around 6 1/2 hours for slow me to disassemble.
I did all the fsm steps. I’m not good enough to freelance.

 

[CharlieS]

Sounds textbook so far!

Reassembly is the quick easy part!

 

[AnyMal]

I know its late but this has been real nice to have as of late;

Also nice work!

 

[grinchy]

Yeah I was in the local Ace and auto supply looking for one of these. They didn’t have it. Had to drop the coin on the long wrenches. Which I actually used pretty often on the rest of the disassembly. Not sad to have shiny new wrenches.

I’m sure HF has them for less, but it’s 40 min to the nearest HF.

I know its late but this has been real nice to have as of late;

View attachment 3276403


Also nice work!

 

[grinchy]

Install straight forward took 3.5hrs. I never did find the torque setting for the nuts to connect the fan to the fluid coupler, I went with tight, but not super tight.

I made this SST to install the lower radiator bolts, which are blind due to my aftermarket bumper shell. When the bolt is flush with the back nut extract the tool and rubber bands. I used a hook to pull out any wayward rubber bands that came off during extraction. There are two rubber bands, one each side. Then tighten to torque spec or until 3 to 4 threads protrude.

Got almost two gallons of coolant in, and thinking of clever ways to force the tranny fluid out of the old core to see what I might want to put back into the tranny for replacement fluid there.

 

[bloc]

Install straight forward took 3.5hrs. I never did find the torque setting for the nuts to connect the fan to the fluid coupler, I went with tight, but not super tight.

I made this SST to install the lower radiator bolts, which are blind due to my aftermarket bumper shell. When the bolt is flush with the back nut extract the tool and rubber bands. I used a hook to pull out any wayward rubber bands that came off during extraction. There are two rubber bands, one each side.

Got almost two gallons of coolant in, and thinking of clever ways to force the tranny fluid out of the old core to see what I might want to put back into the tranny for replacement fluid there.

View attachment 3276981

Fan to bearing nuts are 15ft-lbf, in the Engine > Cooling > Radiator > Components section of the FSM.

IMO out of 12 qts in the transmission the amount in the fluid/fluid cooler is inconsequential.

 

[grinchy]

Compiling a parts list for future replacement... anyone have the Thermostat housing gasket part number?

Or... is that not being replaced when doing the water pump/thermostat?

Here's a table you can copy/paste from...

Item	PN
Radiator	16400-50384
Upper hose	16571-38080
Lower hose	16572-38131
Thermostat	16031-0S010
Water pump	16100-09491
Serp tensioner	16620-0S012
Idler pulley	16603-38012
Water P Gasket (Apparently not needed... WP comes with a gasket...)	16271-38020 (Comes w WP)
Serp belt	90916-A2033
Thermostat housing gasket	Comes with T-Stat
Fan support bearing	16380-0S010

Updated the list as I just found out the WP comes with a WP gasket... Anyone need a WP gasket, let me know

In addition to above, I replaced these at the same time:

Fan Clutch - 16210-38071
Pulley, Fan - 16371-38010

In addition to this list I'd suggest adding #1 and #3 water by-pass hoses.

#1 - 16261-0S030 (removed to replace water pump and access thermostat)

#3 - 16267-0S030 (removed to replace water pump, technically just 'detached', but it's way easier to loosen the heater T hard pipe to get slack and just pull this little elbow off)

 

[ATwoZ]

So I finally got bit by this one @~145k mi. Saw a strange fluid under the car, and found some pink splatter. Thankfully appears to just be a small crack, and some JB Weld is 'helping', but probably need to reapply as wasn't able to let fully set. Have needed to drive a couple miles and just keeping low rpms and babying it in between.

I'm ordering a radiator, but had questions on other parts...

1. I see the parts lists for replacing water pump, belts, pulleys etc. When I talked to my local indy shop, they said don't touch them unless there is something wrong...is there really a concern with those other parts failing and should be done proactively, or does it generally align with higher mileage too? I feel like I'm getting a mix of "If it's not broke don't fix it" and "while you're in there why not" thoughts?
2. I'm thinking I probably need to top off coolant for whatever came out...is there a specific one to use as a stop gap? How do I check levels for how much to put in?

 

[bloc]

So I finally got bit by this one @~145k mi. Saw a strange fluid under the car, and found some pink splatter. Thankfully appears to just be a small crack, and some JB Weld is 'helping', but probably need to reapply as wasn't able to let fully set. Have needed to drive a couple miles and just keeping low rpms and babying it in between.

I'm ordering a radiator, but had questions on other parts...

1. I see the parts lists for replacing water pump, belts, pulleys etc. When I talked to my local indy shop, they said don't touch them unless there is something wrong...is there really a concern with those other parts failing and should be done proactively, or does it generally align with higher mileage too? I feel like I'm getting a mix of "If it's not broke don't fix it" and "while you're in there why not" thoughts?
2. I'm thinking I probably need to top off coolant for whatever came out...is there a specific one to use as a stop gap? How do I check levels for how much to put in?

Toyota “pink” SLLC (super long life coolant) only. If you are going to dump it for the radiator swap you can add a small amount of distilled water, but I’d rather get coolant at a Toyota dealer and do it right, even if that’s the one thing you must pay full price for.

At your mileage you should dump and replace the coolant anyway.. so I’d open the block drains and do more than just what’s required for the rad.

Other parts are optional but at your mileage things will be getting tired. If you can afford to have the vehicle down you can get the radiator out and evaluate the other parts. Otherwise it’s mostly people doing the work while they are in there.. much easier to do a water pump or fan bearing bracket when the radiator is out of the way, as well as prevent damage to a good radiator.

I’d consider checking the heater T’s also. It’s random. Some like mine are factory perfect at 185k miles, others have disintegrated by 150.

 

[ATwoZ]

Toyota “pink” SLLC (super long life coolant) only. If you are going to dump it for the radiator swap you can add a small amount of distilled water, but I’d rather get coolant at a Toyota dealer and do it right, even if that’s the one thing you must pay full price for.

At your mileage you should dump and replace the coolant anyway.. so I’d open the block drains and do more than just what’s required for the rad.

Other parts are optional but at your mileage things will be getting tired. If you can afford to have the vehicle down you can get the radiator out and evaluate the other parts. Otherwise it’s mostly people doing the work while they are in there.. much easier to do a water pump or fan bearing bracket when the radiator is out of the way, as well as prevent damage to a good radiator.

I’d consider checking the heater T’s also. It’s random. Some like mine are factory perfect at 185k miles, others have disintegrated by 150.

Thanks that helps a lot - I think I may actually still have some SLLC...will need to check...if I do, I know it would have been opened, how rough is the shelf life on that? I'm guessing it may be a year or more past when it was opened, would that matter in this scenario for just topping off a little?

Thanks for the added perspective on it. I don't think the parts cost is crazy for the other pieces, I just may end up with some funny looks from the shop for 'why are we doing this?'

 

[bloc]

Thanks that helps a lot - I think I may actually still have some SLLC...will need to check...if I do, I know it would have been opened, how rough is the shelf life on that? I'm guessing it may be a year or more past when it was opened, would that matter in this scenario for just topping off a little?

Thanks for the added perspective on it. I don't think the parts cost is crazy for the other pieces, I just may end up with some funny looks from the shop for 'why are we doing this?'

Not sure about shelf life, you’d need to research it. I don’t think it is hygroscopic like brake fluid.

If you are having a shop do the work don’t let them “flush” the cooling system. Not even with straight water. Just drain and fill. The rear heat is difficult to fully drain and there isn’t a great way to get all of whatever they put in there out so your final coolant fill will be diluted. If it’s diluted by a little old coolant that isn’t a problem.

Definitely avoid letting the shop install aftermarket parts. A few specific ones are OE supplier.. aisin for the pump, dayco for the tensioner and belt I believe.. but for the most part if you don’t specify genuine Toyota or supply your own stuff they’ll install whatever they can find the cheapest and that’s not a good strategy.

 

[ATwoZ]

Not sure about shelf life, you’d need to research it. I don’t think it is hygroscopic like brake fluid.

If you are having a shop do the work don’t let them “flush” the cooling system. Not even with straight water. Just drain and fill. The rear heat is difficult to fully drain and there isn’t a great way to get all of whatever they put in there out so your final coolant fill will be diluted. If it’s diluted by a little old coolant that isn’t a problem.

Definitely avoid letting the shop install aftermarket parts. A few specific ones are OE supplier.. aisin for the pump, dayco for the tensioner and belt I believe.. but for the most part if you don’t specify genuine Toyota or supply your own stuff they’ll install whatever they can find the cheapest and that’s not a good strategy.

Thanks - for right now for 'topping' off the coolant as I limp along, do I just pour directly into the radiator? what if anything needs to be done with the reservoir?

 

[bloc]

Thanks - for right now for 'topping' off the coolant as I limp along, do I just pour directly into the radiator? what if anything needs to be done with the reservoir?

Yes directly into the rad. With the crack in the upper tank the radiator can’t make a vacuum to draw coolant from the reservoir back into itself.

 

[ATwoZ]

Yes directly into the rad. With the crack in the upper tank the radiator can’t make a vacuum to draw coolant from the reservoir back into itself.

Got it...so somewhat patched with JB Weld which hopefully helps the vacuum ...the reservoir to the left of the radiator appears to be completely empty...should I be adding any coolant directly to the reservoir too if it's empty?

 

[bloc]

Got it...so somewhat patched with JB Weld which hopefully helps the vacuum ...the reservoir to the left of the radiator appears to be completely empty...should I be adding any coolant directly to the reservoir too if it's empty?

Yes it definitely won’t hurt. I forgot about the JBW.. might allow a vacuum, but still add it to the core first.

 

[ATwoZ]

Yes it definitely won’t hurt. I forgot about the JBW.. might allow a vacuum, but still add it to the core first.

Yup - did the core, only seemed to take a few ounces, will add to reservoir too, hopefully between the two it let's me limp for a few days until parts are here and shop time is scheduled.

 

[paulunm]

In addition to this list I'd suggest adding #1 and #3 water by-pass hoses.

#1 - 16261-0S030 (removed to replace water pump and access thermostat)

#3 - 16267-0S030 (removed to replace water pump, technically just 'detached', but it's way easier to loosen the heater T hard pipe to get slack and just pull this little elbow off)

Thanks, I just updated my post with your parts and fan clutch parts... Should be pretty comprehensive now.

 

[ekolpack]

Install straight forward took 3.5hrs. I never did find the torque setting for the nuts to connect the fan to the fluid coupler, I went with tight, but not super tight.

I made this SST to install the lower radiator bolts, which are blind due to my aftermarket bumper shell. When the bolt is flush with the back nut extract the tool and rubber bands. I used a hook to pull out any wayward rubber bands that came off during extraction. There are two rubber bands, one each side. Then tighten to torque spec or until 3 to 4 threads protrude.

Got almost two gallons of coolant in, and thinking of clever ways to force the tranny fluid out of the old core to see what I might want to put back into the tranny for replacement fluid there.

View attachment 3276981

For tranny fluid I'd highly recommend Amsoil. Also not sure what ya mean by force tranny fluid out, but in an AT vehicle, I wouldn't recommend a transmission flush (fine for most MT vehicles, not for AT). Just drain the old fluid and top off with Amsoil. I'm sure you're already in the know, but anything having to do with oils, the experts are at bobistheoilguy forum....lotsa industry folks and oldschool oil guys there. They know they shizz. Aloha!