2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (14 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Reporting back a week after starting this PM.
Out with the old and in with the new. Unfortunately this job took me around 12hrs this time around, and this was my 2nd time doing this. I've said it once and I'll say it again...the hardest part of this job is getting the radiator out. The two bottom mounting bolts on the radiator were seized on the mounting tabs, so they kept spinning.
After I was finally able to get a secure grip on the tabs and start backing the bolts out, the bolts broke off. Luckily both were clean brakes and I was still able to get the radiator out.
After that part of the adventure, everything else was smooth sailing. I was however unable to get access to the drain plug on the PS side of the engine block due to the AHC bracket being in the way.
I was only able to get out a gallon and a half from the radiator, plus whatever came out when I removed the the thermostat, and water pump.
I still have 4 gallons of coolant in the garage, so I'll just drain from the radiator once I've put 1,000 miles on the new radiator.
Something else I want to share, is that this was my first time swapping out the fan bracket. Swapping that out was not as hard as it looks. Just make sure you spray a little PB oil on the 10mm bolt at the end of the coolant pipe right by the A/C compressor once you remove the radiator.
Then remove all the bolts, and hoses seen in the last picture. With all of this stuff removed, slowly wiggle the hard line back and forth and you will eventually be able to manipulate the line to get a flex head in and back out the 12mm bolt. I was also able to slip a 1/4" inch per pound torque wrench in there for the final tighten.
Final word to the wise. Make sure you use an inch per pound torque wrench when putting everything back in (water pump, fan bracket, lines, thermostat, etc.) b/c the chance of snapping a 10mm or 12mm bolt is real. Myself and other's can attest to this.

20240926_111252.jpg


20240926_111631.jpg


20240926_111744.jpg


20240926_111915.jpg


20240922_140324.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's the bracket bolt I was making reference to. And these are the replacement bolts I used to replace the two bottom radiator bolts that snapped. They worked like a charm. Just make sure you dab some anti-seize on for future jobs.

20240922_140324.jpg


20240929_090354.jpg
 
what is a good temp range for coolant?
After my radiator replacement and burping out air, coolant temp is between 185 - 195F with outside temp at 70F and needle on gauge is dead center. If anyone has some guidance on opinion on the normal operating temp range for coolant, it will help. Also my gauge needle is always dead center once engine warms up. Some say it’s little below the middle for them. (May be a gauge calibration thing)
 
what is a good temp range for coolant?
After my radiator replacement and burping out air, coolant temp is between 185 - 195F with outside temp at 70F and needle on gauge is dead center. If anyone has some guidance on opinion on the normal operating temp range for coolant, it will help. Also my gauge needle is always dead center once engine warms up. Some say it’s little below the middle for them. (May be a gauge calibration thing)
That sounds about right. I've been running at around 185 on temp all week on my Torque app with both the A/C and heat running.
 
Finally joined the club!
132k. Beat the average 🫠!

Purchased vehicle at 119k, changed out all fluids and performed services. Was going to swap radiator but the crack was very small, no leaking. Thought to myself, why spend more money if not necessary (replaced tensioner, idler, upper lower hoses, belt, etc), I'll just cross that bridge when I come to it.

Well, today was the day!
New radiator ordered from Toyota Decatur for $329.81 (free shipping), but they said it will be a number of weeks until all orders are fulfilled. Canceled the order and reordered from Toyota Parts Deal for $407.41 shipped because this is a DD.

Pictures below show the crime scene, guilty party, and temporary fix until new radiator arrives in a week.

Advice: If you're doing this pre-emptively and have time until your radiator explodes, pick this part up from Toyota Decatur. They seem to have the best prices.
This is the new radiator model (16400-50384) without the built in design flaw.

20241002_125417.jpg

20241002_125423.jpg

20241002_130946.jpg
 
what is a good temp range for coolant?
After my radiator replacement and burping out air, coolant temp is between 185 - 195F with outside temp at 70F and needle on gauge is dead center. If anyone has some guidance on opinion on the normal operating temp range for coolant, it will help. Also my gauge needle is always dead center once engine warms up. Some say it’s little below the middle for them. (May be a gauge calibration thing)
Mine is also right there at 185-195 ish.
 
Noticed the crack forming on mine at 135k. I used the JB Weld radiator kit with fiberglass and put a large patch over the area. A year and a half later (20k miles) the epoxy is just starting to crack in the same location. Going to get the replacement on order, but at this point I am curious how much longer the patch will hold.

IMG_9173.jpg


IMG_9181.jpg


IMG_7140.jpg
 
(I may be forgetting things, if so someone else please let me know)

Radiator 16400-50384
Lower hose 16572-38131
Upper hose 16571-38080
Clamps: 3x 90466-A0026 1x 90467-43002
Thermostat 16031-0S010 (includes gasket)
Water pump 16100-09491 (includes gaskets)

Belt 90916-A2033
Idler pulley 16603-38012
Tensioner and pulley 16620-0S012
Fan bearing bracket 16380-0S010

I'd strongly consider replacing the heater hose assemblies. We recently discovered that rigs built before 2013 have a more fragile plastic in the T's, and the new parts appear far less likely to fail.

Info here: Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/page-5

If you're feeling really spicy consider doing the alternator brushes while you have the front of the engine apart.


PCV valve if you haven't done it, cheap and easy.
My wife’s 2013 LX570 radiator is leaking around the tanks at the top, do you know if there is a difference between the Toyota and Lexus parts needed for replacement? Thanks for any assistance!!!🍻
 
My wife’s 2013 LX570 radiator is leaking around the tanks at the top, do you know if there is a difference between the Toyota and Lexus parts needed for replacement? Thanks for any assistance!!!🍻
No difference, exact same parts =)
 
Here's the bracket bolt I was making reference to. And these are the replacement bolts I used to replace the two bottom radiator bolts that snapped. They worked like a charm. Just make sure you dab some anti-seize on for future jobs.

View attachment 3737884

View attachment 3737885

Freshy fresh.

Question on the fan clutch - is there any consensus on how long these generally last? I'm on my original one and everything is hunky dory. Is there symptoms to identifying wear?
 
Freshy fresh.

Question on the fan clutch - is there any consensus on how long these generally last? I'm on my original one and everything is hunky dory. Is there symptoms to identifying wear?
I don't have a straight answer, but I want to say 100,000-150,000 miles/ 8 years is what Google said.
 
Question on the fan clutch - is there any consensus on how long these generally last? I'm on my original one and everything is hunky dory. Is there symptoms to identifying wear?
When they fail, do they fail engaged or open? Sound engineering would fail engaged; I'd rather have it be noisy and cooling than overheat.
 
Our fan clutches are quite robust. I changed mine at about 175k as PM and couldn't really tell a difference.

The primary mode of failure will be the fluid leaking past the shaft seal and when enough has done that the clutch won't be able to lock up as it should.. the dangerous thing about this scenario is due to the design it'll adapt and cool just fine, until it can't, and you overheat. The good news is it won't just fail outright, if you reduce the heat production of the engine (slow down) it should be sufficient to get you to somewhere to repair it. Also, as long as we are inspecting things correctly that fluid leak should be pretty evident. It will be slow, because during normal operation the fluid is held at the outside perimeter of the clutch.

Another way they may fail is the main shaft bearing wearing out, but this is really rare for toyota clutches, as far as I know.
 
FWIW. I'm assuming this is a standard design and ours operates the same. It's the opposite of what I would have expected. A fail-safe would use cold fluid to disengage and either heat or lack of fluid would fail to engagement.

1738173892560.png
 
FWIW. I'm assuming this is a standard design and ours operates the same. It's the opposite of what I would have expected. A fail-safe would use cold fluid to disengage and either heat or lack of fluid would fail to engagement.

View attachment 3827232
There are some minor differences like where the overflow reservoir is located, but yes the thermal spring, “gates” to allow or restrict movement of fluid, and drive plate/grooves are how the 80-series clutch I took apart and modified worked. I’d have to assume ours is very similar, only larger to account for the thermal demands of our engine.

I probably should have taken my old one apart for an anatomy thread. Maybe @Boston Mangler can do that since I think his is getting replaced soon, if not already.
 
There are some minor differences like where the overflow reservoir is located, but yes the thermal spring, “gates” to allow or restrict movement of fluid, and drive plate/grooves are how the 80-series clutch I took apart and modified worked. I’d have to assume ours is very similar, only larger to account for the thermal demands of our engine.

I probably should have taken my old one apart for an anatomy thread. Maybe @Boston Mangler can do that since I think his is getting replaced soon, if not already.

@bloc my radiator is one of the few things i am NOT replacing. It has already been updated to the new variant around 50k miles ago.

Looking through the records, the dealer they had do it charged a pretty obscene penny too, but didnt do the water pump or anything related....

If youre talking about the fan clutch, or related parts, yes i will be replacing all those here shortly.

If someone wants me to send the old stuff to them for science, lemme know. Will have around 220k on them when i yank it all, and as far as i can tell, its all original stuff
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top Bottom