2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (15 Viewers)

[unclemat]

Apparently there was a sudden failure, per post #1,751.

 

[pvchaitanya]

Ordered radiator and hoses/clips from toyota decantur AL and heater hose Ts from IMPEX japan (costs 55$ including shipping for both hoses).

 

[jbyrd78]

Got all the parts in today to start my second 200 series radiator replacement. This time it will be on a 2015 LX570 with 123,773 miles on the ODO. Nothing failed, I just decided to get er done since I just started a 2 week "staycation." Between the dealership hooking me up, and Rock Auto I'm about $1,200.00 in parts-wise.

 

[silver tuna]

Wasn’t aware of the radiator issue until I started following the CCN post on head gasket failure. Looks like it’s cracked. Is this the old style and should be replaced ASAP even if I keep a close eye on it? Is the denso unit the same as OEM or should I just go with the Toyota one?

Also, could someone be so kind and provide a shortcut to the section of this thread where the discussion seems to go into other items that should be replaced while I’m in there. Thanks, appreciate any help.

 

[bloc]

Wasn’t aware of the radiator issue until I started following the CCN post on head gasket failure. Looks like it’s cracked. Is this the old style and should be replaced ASAP even if I keep a close eye on it? Is the denso unit the same as OEM or should I just go with the Toyota one?

Also, could someone be so kind and provide a shortcut to the section of this thread where the discussion seems to go into other items that should be replaced while I’m in there. Thanks, appreciate any help.

View attachment 3731761

That is the old style, hard to say how long you have but I’d get it done sooner than later.

Genuine Toyota (aka OEM) is “TRad” not Denso, and that is the best design as it stands now.

This post has the full parts list for everything, it’s up to you what to do based on your mileage and comfort level. At a minimum the radiator and a few gallons of Toyota company, consider the big hoses and clamps, many people tack on thermostat and water pump, and the list can grow from there.

2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

Had my rad fail on me today. I had this on my radar to complete anyway. Looking for some assistance with part numbers. If this has already been posted before, I apologize in advance as I spent half the day trying to locate the part numbers in previous threads or posts for all the items above for...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ultimately you’ll need to do the research to see what is appropriate for your mileage and budget.

 

[jbyrd78]

That is the old style, hard to say how long you have but I’d get it done sooner than later.

Genuine Toyota (aka OEM) is “TRad” not Denso, and that is the best design as it stands now.

I'm in the garage busting this out. If you have time today. Could you post the torque specs for the:

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt
- 4 throttle body bolts
- 3 thermostat bolts

 

[jbyrd78]

Wasn’t aware of the radiator issue until I started following the CCN post on head gasket failure. Looks like it’s cracked. Is this the old style and should be replaced ASAP even if I keep a close eye on it? Is the denso unit the same as OEM or should I just go with the Toyota one?

Also, could someone be so kind and provide a shortcut to the section of this thread where the discussion seems to go into other items that should be replaced while I’m in there. Thanks, appreciate any help.

View attachment 3731761

Here's my list of parts I bought from RockAuto & and my local Toyota dealership, minus coolant. I did local pickup at my dealership, shipping is $60. If you like the pricing PM and I'll give you the individuals info who does online orders.

 

[silver tuna]

Good effort. It would work even better if the patch was done prior to an actual leak. Then it works less to seal the leak, and more to relieve the stress riser at the corner. I firmly believe done that way, it would be fixed indefinitely.

Still holding?

 

[pvchaitanya]

.

 

[TeCKis300]

Still holding?

I changed my radiator proactively as part of water pump and other maintenance well before my radiator was an issue and the idea was developed. I wouldn't hesitate to use a patch reinforcement on any example of the bad version as it's a design defect. The defect geometry lends itself to become stress riser, then a crack, then a leak. Fixing the root issue in its earlier phases is the name of the game.

 

[bloc]

I'm in the garage busting this out. If you have time today. Could you post the torque specs for the:

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt
- 4 throttle body bolts
- 3 thermostat bolts

I’m on my way home from Colorado so can’t get to this until tomorrow, but will try to remember to look them up if no one has by then.

 

[teejnut]

I'm in the garage busting this out. If you have time today. Could you post the torque specs for the:

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt
- 4 throttle body bolts
- 3 thermostat bolts

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt = 13 ft/lb
- 4 throttle body bolts = 7 ft/lb
- 3 thermostat bolts = 7 ft/lb

Why you removing the throttle body? Looks like there's a "non-reusuable" gasket for the throttle body as well. JFYI.

 

[silver tuna]

That is the old style, hard to say how long you have but I’d get it done sooner than later.

Genuine Toyota (aka OEM) is “TRad” not Denso, and that is the best design as it stands now.

This post has the full parts list for everything, it’s up to you what to do based on your mileage and comfort level. At a minimum the radiator and a few gallons of Toyota company, consider the big hoses and clamps, many people tack on thermostat and water pump, and the list can grow from there.

2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

Had my rad fail on me today. I had this on my radar to complete anyway. Looking for some assistance with part numbers. If this has already been posted before, I apologize in advance as I spent half the day trying to locate the part numbers in previous threads or posts for all the items above for...

forum.ih8mud.com

Ultimately you’ll need to do the research to see what is appropriate for your mileage and budget.

I just changed my coolant, would there be anything wrong with catching it in a clean container and reusing it?

 

[pvchaitanya]

I just changed my coolant, would there be anything wrong with catching it in a clean container and reusing it?

my 2 cents. Its nothing wrong, especially if you change all the 3-4 gallons from the engine block just 6 months ago and want to reuse it. But if that's not the case, its better to put new coolant as you want to keep the coolant as fresh and to the spec as possible. rather than having old coolant with silicate accumulation or the white stuff. I found this white waxy stuff around the upper and lower radiator hoses and also small white lumps in bottom of bottle from my sealed half used coolant I bought from last year.

 

[bloc]

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt = 13 ft/lb
- 4 throttle body bolts = 7 ft/lb
- 3 thermostat bolts = 7 ft/lb

Why you removing the throttle body? Looks like there's a "non-reusuable" gasket for the throttle body as well. JFYI.

It's not only a gasket, it is the screen that catches solid objects that may go through the throttle body. Induction gasses condense on it and eventually leave a bit of a soft brown goo on the mesh.. if you are getting up there in miles not a bad idea to either clean really well (my gasket had enough spring to be reusable, though I did replace it when I had the TB off again) or replace. IIRC it's not terribly expensive. I would absolutely reuse a low-mileage one, personally.

and thanks for the assist on the torque values.

my 2 cents. Its nothing wrong, especially if you change all the 3-4 gallons from the engine block just 6 months ago and want to reuse it. But if that's not the case, its better to put new coolant as you want to keep the coolant as fresh and to the spec as possible.

I agree with this. Just depends on the circumstances.

 

[pvchaitanya]

I would strongly suggest topping off the transmission fluid in the radiator bottom two tubes as it takes almost a half quart of fluid. If that much of fluid is not replenished back, your transmission fluid will definitely be low after this radiator swap. (Even with top off), you will loose a little bit fluid as we detach and attach lines but that should be minimal.

 

[pvchaitanya]

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt = 13 ft/lb
- 4 throttle body bolts = 7 ft/lb
- 3 thermostat bolts = 7 ft/lb

Why you removing the throttle body? Looks like there's a "non-reusuable" gasket for the throttle body as well. JFYI.

thank you for these values.

can someone post the torque for engine block 10mm drain nut?

 

[teejnut]

thank you for these values.

can someone post the torque for engine block 10mm drain nut?

There are two cylinder block drain cock plugs and both are 10 ft/lb.

The radiator drain cock has no spec and just says "plug by hand".

 

[bloc]

thank you for these values.

can someone post the torque for engine block 10mm drain nut?

Looks like 10ft-lbf

 

[jbyrd78]

- 4 12mm radiator bracket bolt = 13 ft/lb
- 4 throttle body bolts = 7 ft/lb
- 3 thermostat bolts = 7 ft/lb

Why you removing the throttle body? Looks like there's a "non-reusuable" gasket for the throttle body as well. JFYI.

I removed it for better access, and to also clean the build up on the inside.

I would strongly suggest topping off the transmission fluid in the radiator bottom two tubes as it takes almost a half quart of fluid. If that much of fluid is not replenished back, your transmission fluid will definitely be low after this radiator swap. (Even with top off), you will loose a little bit fluid as we detach and attach lines but that should be minimal.

I guess my transmission fluid was low to begin with b/c I was only able to drain about 3 ounces out of my cooler. To make things better, the fluid was also nice and brown when it came out. So I guess I can add a ATF fluid exchange or drain and fill to the list of PM's I need to finish up in the next week or two lol.