2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Had my rad fail on me today. I had this on my radar to complete anyway. Looking for some assistance with part numbers. If this has already been posted before, I apologize in advance as I spent half the day trying to locate the part numbers in previous threads or posts for all the items above for a 2009 LX 570. I also did my own search in the parts manual but looking for confirmation.

Also, having done a lot of work on my 80 with the help of this community, I am not shy about tackling some of these items. My question is…is there any part here that I may need to take into shop for repair or are all the replacement parts listed straight forward to replace?

View attachment 3710191
At a minimum, obviously you’ll need the new radiator. All the rest of the stuff is optional but considered “while you’re in there.”

Belt, idler/tensioner, water pump, hoses and spring clamps, fan bearing bracket.. people do many different combinations of parts for this job.

How far do you want to go?
 
Does anyone make a quality all-metal aftermarket replacement radiator for the 200 Series?
 
Does anyone make a quality all-metal aftermarket replacement radiator for the 200 Series?
Not that I’ve seen, and realistically it probably wouldn’t be as good as the updated design from Toyota.
 
At a minimum, obviously you’ll need the new radiator. All the rest of the stuff is optional but considered “while you’re in there.”

Belt, idler/tensioner, water pump, hoses and spring clamps, fan bearing bracket.. people do many different combinations of parts for this job.

How far do you want to go?
Was planning on doing it all ‘while I am in there’.
 
Was planning on doing it all ‘while I am in there’.
(I may be forgetting things, if so someone else please let me know)

Radiator 16400-50384
Lower hose 16572-38131
Upper hose 16571-38080
Clamps: 3x 90466-A0026 1x 90467-43002
Thermostat 16031-0S010 (includes gasket)
Water pump 16100-09491 (includes gaskets)

Belt 90916-A2033
Idler pulley 16603-38012
Tensioner and pulley 16620-0S012
Fan bearing bracket 16380-0S010

I'd strongly consider replacing the heater hose assemblies. We recently discovered that rigs built before 2013 have a more fragile plastic in the T's, and the new parts appear far less likely to fail.

Info here: Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/page-5

If you're feeling really spicy consider doing the alternator brushes while you have the front of the engine apart.


PCV valve if you haven't done it, cheap and easy.
 
Here's a followup post I made after doing the rad replacement which quotes a couple parts lists and adds a couple more minor hoses

 
(I may be forgetting things, if so someone else please let me know)

Radiator 16400-50384
Lower hose 16572-38131
Upper hose 16571-38080
Clamps: 3x 90466-A0026 1x 90467-43002
Thermostat 16031-0S010 (includes gasket)
Water pump 16100-09491 (includes gaskets)

Belt 90916-A2033
Idler pulley 16603-38012
Tensioner and pulley 16620-0S012
Fan bearing bracket 16380-0S010

I'd strongly consider replacing the heater hose assemblies. We recently discovered that rigs built before 2013 have a more fragile plastic in the T's, and the new parts appear far less likely to fail.

Info here: Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/page-5

If you're feeling really spicy consider doing the alternator brushes while you have the front of the engine apart.


PCV valve if you haven't done it, cheap and easy.
took a few when cross referencing other threads and write ups but thinking I got everything in there.

IMG_1497.png
IMG_1496.png
IMG_1495.png
 
I am just going to replace radiator. Full time job and full time student make time a commodity.

one question…searched but couldn’t find a clear answer if the transmission cooler reservoir in the radiator needs to be prefilled and if the loss of atf when plugged the hoses will need to be replaced.
 
took a few when cross referencing other threads and write ups but thinking I got everything in there.

View attachment 3710828View attachment 3710830View attachment 3710831
6-7 hour job if this is your first time. Hardest part of the job is draining the radiator lol.
I'm actually getting ready to do this job for the second time on my 2015 LX570.

Let me help save you some money.
The water pump, fan clutch, fan bracket, and thermostat are all made for Toyota by AISIN. You can buy those parts from Rock Auto. Not only will those parts be cheaper, but they will show up with the "Toyota" logo ground off, but they will have a AISIN logo over where the "Toyota " logo was. The AISIN water pump will show up with the water pump gasket and O-ring. If you buy this part from Toyota, you will have to pay for those parts separately. The idler pully, and tensioner are made by Dayco, and you can buy those from Advanced Auto along with a Dayco, or Gates belt and use an online 20% off coupon that they are currently promoting for Labor Day. Dayco also offers a better warranty over their parts if they fail than Toyota will. The serpentine belt will also come with a 3 year warranty.
Something else to keep in mind and you should ask before you purchase these Toyota parts. Ask them what the actual warranty over the parts are. Some Toyota places will only honor the warranty if the parts were actually installed by Toyota.

20210822_172121.jpg


20210822_154133.jpg


20210912_111828.jpg


20210912_114553.jpg


20210912_112018.jpg
 
I am just going to replace radiator. Full time job and full time student make time a commodity.

one question…searched but couldn’t find a clear answer if the transmission cooler reservoir in the radiator needs to be prefilled and if the loss of atf when plugged the hoses will need to be replaced.
I just drained what I could of the old fluid from the cooler and put it back in when I reinstalled the radiator. I think there was only 2-3 syringes full as seen in the pic posted. Once I filled the cooler, I put the plastic caps back on until the radiator was installed to avoid spillage.

20210916_221504.jpg
 
I just drained what I could of the old fluid from the cooler and put it back in when I reinstalled the radiator. I think there was only 2-3 syringes full as seen in the pic posted. Once I filled the cooler, I put the plastic caps back on until the radiator was installed to avoid spillage.

View attachment 3716666
This is great info…seems logical after the fact.

I haven’t seen these pics or your posts on this topic after much reading/searching…so thanks for the additional info.

Couple questions:
Did you previously do anything with the starter or alternator?
How was the bolts on the parts disassembly? With my 80 series, I always felts like I was one bolt away from a weekend to week job.
 
So I am ordering the radiator from serra decantur and they are running a good discount. What are the other bare minimum parts required for this job?
Currently ordering the radiator, upper/lower hose and clips.
I remember reading that some clips are one time use only and should be replaced, can someone post the part number?
Is 3 gallons good enough coolant for refilling?
 
Last edited:
Serra Toyota (https://serratoyota.com) or Serra Toyota of Decatur (https://www.toyotaofdecatur.com)?

These are two distinct locations with a slight differences in pricing.

Ah, didn't know serratoyota is its own site. This is serra toyota of decantur and I am getting the price shipped (Free) for around $280
I was thinking they both are the same and this is the same serra which ships out these radiators intact.

Just checked serra toyota as well, its the same price $285 shipped.
 
Last edited:
another question, are heater T replacements any easier with the radiator replacement job? otherwise I dont want to snowball this into a larger fix all job. I definitely intend to replace heater Ts, but thinking of pushing it further out if it doesn't make it easier to do it with this job. (Not about money, its more about time required on the car).
The water pump, thermostat etc, are working fine and I am less inclined to touch them as I already did the serpentine belt and two tensioner and idle pulleys before. Unless they are generally know to fail in the next 20-30k miles, I am thinking of pushing it out as there are too many things like fan clutch, bearing etc etc, which can and will fail eventually but I think I can kick it out further.
Any thoughts?
 
Serra Toyota (https://serratoyota.com) or Serra Toyota of Decatur (https://www.toyotaofdecatur.com)?

These are two distinct locations with slight differences in pricing.

Answering myself. I called the later, Serra Toyota of Decatur, and they guy told me they double box. Also five bucks less.... ;)

Now other question: did anyone experience sudden blow out of the radiator without the telltale crack forming?
 
Answering myself. I called the later, Serra Toyota of Decatur, and they guy told me they double box. Also five bucks less.... ;)

Now other question: did anyone experience sudden blow out of the radiator without the telltale crack forming?

I can tell you my experience. I had a crack develop on mine 1 year ago. Drove it with crack for 1000 mile trips, with just a half quart loosing in the trip.
Did a jbweld patch and it started leaking again after few hundred miles. Now I am loosing a half quart for each oil change (5000 miles). In all these, I dont feel the radiator will burst out, but lets heard from others on their experience. So it total, I drove my truck 10,000 miles since it started leaking slowly.

I have loaded my cart with just radiator, hoses, clamps and heater Ts, and transmission drain and check washers and fill o-ring. (to top off the transmission fluid if required).

The whole fan/thermostat, waterpump etc, is doubling the whole work as I estimated it.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom