Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (1 Viewer)

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I started with replacing the front door speakers. The DB6501 were a choice selection based on their overall reputation of quality and durability and price. They were consistent with the specs that I was looking for. They also include liquid cooled silk tweeters and I figured that if they meet a standard to be marine certified, then that couldn't hurt either as the marine use is generally pretty hard on equipment.

Choosing Car Speakers and Components - Polk Audio

The 6.5" woofer is larger than the 5.25" stock speaker so I modified the enclosures to mount them. The LX470 uses complete enclosures on all 4 of the door woofers and the same modifications made them all fit very well.

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After I removed the factory speaker and test fit the new Polks, I found that the 4 legs of the main support cage were the only area that would contact the enclosure to keep the speaker from sitting inside. So I marked the cage position on a supplied gasket that I did not use and transferred the markings to the enclosure locating the mounting screws in place where they would not interfere with anything else. Then I used a dremel to clearance the enclosures and the speakers fit right inside.

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Here is a picture of the dremel bit that I used. This is a wand type dremel that connects to a separate motor assembly so that I can have more precise handling and not hold a vibrating motor in my hand. The bit easily removes material from the side.

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Instead of using the supplied gasket, I applied some Toyota adhesive foam to the speaker cage where it contacts the enclosure. Ensuring an excellent seal that would not interfere with the mounting.

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For the tweeters, I removed the mounting bracket from the stock tweet and used an extreme duty double sided tape to apply the polk tweeter to the mounting bracket. I connected the wires to the stock wiring tail and connector. Its a bit of a tight fit, but the tweeters fit snug inside the factory cover with all its mounting tabs and clips in place.

For the doors, I applied Stinger Road Kill expert mat to the lower portion of the doors. I first removed the factory plastic to get access to the area. The butyl adhesive is easily cut with a sharp razor preventing any damage to the plastic moisture barrier and it is easily re applied. I performed all work with the windows all the way up so that I would not have issues with them. I made a quick template of the inside of the doors marking the locations of all the cladding clips. then I transferred that to the sound deadening and cut the piece in two to aid in installation as one piece seemed too big to work with.

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I then removed a previously applied coating of fluid film from the inside of the doors along with any other surface contaminants. I placed the Road Kill material in the door and pressed/ rolled it on, then I re applied fluid film to the bottom section of the door.

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I installed the crossover to the door under the armrest rearward of the window switch assembly. This location should be high enough to avoid moisture and is easy to access with the door panel on through the window switch hole for adjustment. It was also the only good spot that I could find.

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Next I replaced the old dirty, worn speaker grill cloth. I selected a dark grey material that matches the exterior cladding and some other trim parts to add to the 2 tone appearance of the vehicle. I also marked and cut the door panel to accommodate the larger speaker size.

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The cloth was easily removed from the old cover. I also removed any old adhesive before applying new spray fabric adhesive. Then the new grill cloth was stretched slightly over the cover to prevent any wrinkles and pressed tightly to the adhesive around the back side as excess was trimmed off. I reinstalled the covers to the door panel without the bottom 2 screws. I was not able to reuse the bottom screws as the material that they would mount to was removed to make room for the larger speakers and I did not want the heads of the screws interfering either. Fortunately, the covers sit plenty tight in the door panels as is.

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Copy and paste the process with the woofer to the rear door 2 way speaker and it looks something like this.

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I directed the tweeter portion upward as they are adjustable,and I applied the sound deadening material to the rear doors as well.
 
For the Subwoofer, I used the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10. More info on it here

Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-10

I decided that the stock sub was not going to satisfy my needs and neither was the stock enclosure or the space for that matter. This was one of the last decisions that I made, cause I really wanted to save space as much as possible and I didn't want a big box taking up valuable real estate. I wasn't excited about removing fridge, drawers etc. to access the stock sub either so I left it there for now, until I think of something worth wile to do with that space. Fortunately I found this compact quality sub woofer and a nice box to go with it. This sub has a unique design that works well and saves a ton of space. Instead of the magnet sitting on the back of the speaker, it actually wraps around it. The speaker requires as little as .4 cf in a sealed enclosure. I found the box at a local car audio shop and it was compact, sturdy and versatile. I mounted the sub between the fridge and the left rear window. I used climbing anchors and turnbuckles to secure it to the drawer platform. Its out of the way, yet still accessible. I can easily re position it in a variety of ways or even remove it entirely. It helps to keep items from falling behind the fridge, hits more than hard enough and sounds excellent.

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For the reverse camera I used the Esky EC170-09

This unit is a waterproof wide angle camera integrated into a complete license plate frame. It is an adjustable unit that appears to be quite sturdy.

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What radio (CB?) and mount is shown in the last photo above?

Also, thanks for the reference for the sub. I still need to get one and have some of the same constraints (e.g. space, etc.).
 
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Thanks @Odyseuss - very clean work as always.
 
@SmoothLC np, I appreciate the comments.

For the DVD player headrest monitors, I used an older pair of 7" Vizual Logic units that I picked up for an amazing deal from a friend with a 100 series that no longer needed them. Fortunately, they are the same interior color with the same adjustable range (so they can raise/lower and tilt) and came with 3 sets of IR wireless headphones. Their wiring routes down through the center of the posts so I installed them with enough wiring free in the seat back so that the headrests can still be removed and set on the front seat in the event that a rear passenger does not want to look at the headrest when there is not a front passenger. There was enough room under the front passenger seat for the amplifier and the monitor control unit, so both components and the majority of the wiring and connections were placed there.

In this configuration, rear passengers can view 2 separate video sources and listen to their own audio. Meanwhile, the driver can play a DVD from the head unit to the rear monitors and can also use the head unit for navigation/display and audio. This versatility of operation makes it easy for the driver to change a DVD for the rear monitors from the drivers seat with minimal distraction.

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For the power behind this system I used an Alpine PDX-V9 amplifier. It has a compact design that packs more than enough clean power in a comprehensive design that should be able to run an entire system. It has voltage and temperature controls that will detect high temps or low voltage and smoothly turn down the output if necessary to keep within the approved range. For me, those are 2 less things that I need to worry about. It appears that these things are built to handle the heat and don't need a lot of airspace for cooling as they are designed to be stacked in the event that you can't have just one.

I have put several hundred miles and hours of continuous operation on mine, but I can't post a long term review. For now, I am very satisfied that this unit meets my needs. It does seem to run hot which is probably well within the reasonable limits for a unit like this, however I will continue to keep an eye on it.

After the factory amplifier was removed, I used sound deadening material and dynamat foam to build a flat level surface to place this amp on. Surprisingly, it nest so well that it doesn't move. I installed a rubber foam spacer underneath another factory bracket to ensure that it stays in place.

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That's a great amp... It fits easily under the seat. If you need two amps, the Alpine design is stackable, which is a nice feature.
 
Its always nice to hear good things about stuff that you have spent hard earned $ on. I don't think that I'll ever need more than one as I selected this because at 900W its shouldn't need to work hard to run my speakers and shouldn't be too much for them either. In either case, form over 4+ hours on the highway and days on the trail, it generates some heat which I would expect, but the idea that they can be stacked would significantly reduce the airflow around them so they must be able to withstand a lot of heat.
 
Its always nice to hear good things about stuff that you have spent hard earned $ on. I don't think that I'll ever need more than one as I selected this because at 900W its shouldn't need to work hard to run my speakers and shouldn't be too much for them either. In either case, form over 4+ hours on the highway and days on the trail, it generates some heat which I would expect, but the idea that they can be stacked would significantly reduce the airflow around them so they must be able to withstand a lot of heat.

I've got the older PDX-5 model, and have had it for about 4 years without any issues... I'm sure the newer Alpines are great quality as well. To your point, The PDX-5 does more than enough amplification for my needs as well.
 
For the driver interface, I used a Pioneer AVH4200-NEX head unit. It has taken me a bit of time to run through the features and I still haven't explored them all. Its a vast improvement over the stock unit that was not able to perform the demands of modern media.

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I used a DKMUS trim kit to fit the head unit into the dash bezel.

http://www.amazon.com/DKMUS-Double-...DKMUS LX470&qid=1465442679&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I used Silicone adhesive to secure the trim piece to the bezel and it provides an excellent fit.

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I also installed a small toggle switch to run the antenna motor power. I rarely listen to AM/FM radio and I don't want the antenna motor receiving power every time the head unit turns on. If I flip the switch then the antenna motor functions normally or not at all.
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This new unit gives me a diverse range of media content versatility and customization. It is connected to provide access to 2 USB ports, an Aux (3.5mm that I routed to the center console next to the 12v outlet with various extension options), SD card, DVD/CD, Bluetooth, and rear AV in/out. I can use Android Auto to operate applications on my phone through the head unit monitor so that I don't need to access my phone, and many options are compatible with voice commands. Some of the applications do not function the same way that they do on the phone which is a bit of an issue. I am hopeful and optimistic that phone application and head unit firmware updates will improve this functionality. Features like text messages can be heard and spoken along with phone functions. There was no need for a NAV unit, as google maps works very well,(though it would be nice if there was more color contrast to the maps for easier viewing in light conditions). The Bluetooth function is very convenient compared to other units that I have used. Once I turn the audio on with my device, I can leave it alone. track information and selection is available on the screen and it can be paused as well. When I turn the vehicle off it pauses the device and when I turn the vehicle back on all I need to do is press play on the head unit screen to resume listening.

There are a several security functions including an optional code that once entered will need to be re entered if the stereo is disconnected. The face plate is also removable.

Various screen lighting colors and themes can be changed or even loaded to the device. I just tried to select one that matches the factory setting.

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Man that looks nice! I have the older version of that head unit in my 80, and I really like it.

If you leave the blue antenna control wire from the aftermarket head unit disconnected, wouldn't the stock switch still let you raise/lower the antenna at will? Just wondering why the extra switch was required.
 
Man that looks nice! I have the older version of that head unit in my 80, and I really like it.

If you leave the blue antenna control wire from the aftermarket head unit disconnected, wouldn't the stock switch still let you raise/lower the antenna at will? Just wondering why the extra switch was required.

If you leave the antenna control wire form the head unit disconnected then the antenna will not operate, even with the up/down switch.

The blue/white antenna control wire(from the aftermarket unit) needs to be connected to the factory black/red wire to provide power to the Auto Antenna Control Relay(A30- located behind the glove box) in order for the antenna to function. The relay allows the alternating power and ground so that the switch can control the up/down. Running a switch on that power wire appears to be the least complicated way to override control of the antenna motor and still maintain complete function (unless you use a head unit that only supplies antenna power when the radio is selected).
 
We took a trip down to Washington county to visit with some family and to get out and about to see some of the area. While exploring the area out by Toquerville falls, we stopped to let the kids play in the water. As we moved on past the crowded falls to more difficult terrain, we found solitude in a variety of scenic settings. There were several water crossings, some steep loose and rocky hills, and some elevated views at the ridge by the TV towers.

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We also went out to Sand Hollow reservoir and set up on the beach. Whenever I set the awning up, I'm much more concerned about the wind. I think Murphy's law states that "If you set up an awning, the wind will kick up." As much as I appreciate the shade (especially for my family) its kind of a drag to be constantly concerned about when a gnarly gust of wind is going to come outta nowhere and wreak havoc. If it is already windy, I don't think that I would bother with it unless I really need protection from the rain (and in that case, I would use 2 people to set it up). These things need to be secured down very well with the guy ropes using stakes or rocks etc as anchors, to provide peace of mind and prevent risk of damage to the poles, truck, people etc.


I have found a few things that might help provide a more secure and less concerning setup, Ill be putting them to use as I build some more confidence with its stability. This is a nice and solid awning, but the wind can be a serious force to recon with. I don't feel like I am trying to make something work when it isn't up to the task, but rather improving on its versatility and reliability. The main issue that I come across is being able to secure it to the ground , even when stakes aren't an option to reduce the tendency for wind to lift the vertical poles.

- The first change that I wanted to make is in relation to the guy rope tensioner and attachment. I found that the Nite Ize Cam Jam was an easy cheap option for providing a much more secure adjustment at the guy ropes. I used some small carabiners to quickly attach these to the awning instead of tying them on. I changed the ropes to a paracord that fits great in the Cam Jams.
CamJam

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- Using carabiners at the awning attachment point for the guy ropes allows for the hanging of other accessories or bags that can also help to put weight on the vertical poles to keep them in place. I may also use the extra paracord to tie a prussic and take up any slack at the stake securing the bottom of the pole.

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- In some situations, I want to be able to set this awning up where I am not able to get a stake in the ground in every place that I want to. So I am using a couple sturdy cloth bags that can be filled with rocks or sand/dirt and set out as anchor points. These seem to hold rather well, and if they move a bit, their weight still keeps them in place as they can easily be adjusted tight. On the other hand, if a stake pulls out even a few inches, it is much less secure.

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- I added a few spare parts and extra stakes to the accessory kit including military stakes that work well in softer ground. It all packs into the anchor sacks easily.
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I have seen wind gust come through and wreck the standard square awnings in short order, where I have been able to steady mine with one hand and wait it out. I have had poles get slightly bent to where they don't want to slide in the assembly smoothly. I was relieved to find out that a local retailer @cruiseroutfit had replacement poles in stock for a very reasonable price. As an added bonus, the poles come as an assembly with extra parts that can be used as spares if you don't already need them.

The awning cover also has a bit of free space in it that can be used to hold a spare pole or other items like a fishing pole.
 
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My son and I took a trip out to visit friends at the cabin that they built off the grid.

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Three rivers cross through their property that is surrounded by tall cliffs, so we decided to explore some trails to get a view of the area from above. My friend suggested that there was a trail that might provide a great view. He mentioned that it might be accessible in a vehicle, but he was not sure as it was more challenging than he preferred to travel in an ATV and it was just too hot out. Legusy was the perfect vehicle for exploring in air conditioned comfort with a smooth ride on uneven terrain.

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