- Thread starter
- #121
I went with the small window size. It should be selected in the link.
Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (3 Viewers)
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I went with the small window size. It should be selected in the link.
Cool thanks. It was selected but didn't know if that just went to default and a large one was needed.
- Thread starter
- #123
It has taken me a while to get this updated, so I'm a bit behind on the events.
I went out with some friends from Wasatch Cruisers and Expedition Utah to scout out some Service projects in American Fork canyon.
We camped and I spent the night in my truck using the sleeping platform. It uses a panel of wood that I usually keep secured to the top of my ARB drawers to protect them from all of the objects that I slide in and out of the truck. Basically, I fold down the middle row, then remove the 4 bolts securing the panel and place it upside down over the seats. The panel sits against the back of the drawer box and is leveled solid by another piece of wood and a pvc leg or 2. the panel is very sturdy and slightly incline elevated towards the front seats. I sleep with my feet towards the back of the truck.
We scouted out several potential service projects for National Public Lands Day. One of the projects involved rebuilding a fence around the grave site of George Tyng, a beloved miner and businessman that died in an avalanche on Miller hill in 1906. The fence was in a deteriorated condition of disrepair, so we assessed the necessary materials required to rebuild the fence to its original design.
I went out with some friends from Wasatch Cruisers and Expedition Utah to scout out some Service projects in American Fork canyon.
We camped and I spent the night in my truck using the sleeping platform. It uses a panel of wood that I usually keep secured to the top of my ARB drawers to protect them from all of the objects that I slide in and out of the truck. Basically, I fold down the middle row, then remove the 4 bolts securing the panel and place it upside down over the seats. The panel sits against the back of the drawer box and is leveled solid by another piece of wood and a pvc leg or 2. the panel is very sturdy and slightly incline elevated towards the front seats. I sleep with my feet towards the back of the truck.
We scouted out several potential service projects for National Public Lands Day. One of the projects involved rebuilding a fence around the grave site of George Tyng, a beloved miner and businessman that died in an avalanche on Miller hill in 1906. The fence was in a deteriorated condition of disrepair, so we assessed the necessary materials required to rebuild the fence to its original design.
keep those update coming really enjoy your updates
- Thread starter
- #125
Thanks.
After returning home, I noticed that the 12 connector to my ARB fridge power cord developed a bad connection and melted the plug. I believe that this was a result of vibration movement from the travel on rough roads.
I decided to modify the design with a more permanent solution that eliminates vibration at the power cord connector. I cut out the damaged connector from the cord and replaced it with fused wiring and a weather pack connector. The wiring is a much heavier gauge that is routed directly from the fuse block for my Auxiliary battery. This connector locks in place so there is no movement of the connection.
Since this fridge spends the majority of its time in my truck, I don't need to unplug it very often, and I can still do so. Another ARB cord can be easily sourced to use the fridge with a conventional 12 volt port.
We returned the following weekend for some nice camping and for National Public Lands Day to carry out the service projects with the support of other members of the 4WD community, Expedition Utah, and Wasatch Cruisers.
You can find more details of the projects here.
2015 NPLD Project Report - Tyng's Grave - AFC - Expedition Utah
We rebuilt a new fence around Tyngs grave with the same specifications as the original intending to restore it to its former glory. Its no wonder Tyng wanted to rest in this beautiful place.
We hope to repair the sign as part of a future project.
After returning home, I noticed that the 12 connector to my ARB fridge power cord developed a bad connection and melted the plug. I believe that this was a result of vibration movement from the travel on rough roads.
I decided to modify the design with a more permanent solution that eliminates vibration at the power cord connector. I cut out the damaged connector from the cord and replaced it with fused wiring and a weather pack connector. The wiring is a much heavier gauge that is routed directly from the fuse block for my Auxiliary battery. This connector locks in place so there is no movement of the connection.
Since this fridge spends the majority of its time in my truck, I don't need to unplug it very often, and I can still do so. Another ARB cord can be easily sourced to use the fridge with a conventional 12 volt port.
We returned the following weekend for some nice camping and for National Public Lands Day to carry out the service projects with the support of other members of the 4WD community, Expedition Utah, and Wasatch Cruisers.
You can find more details of the projects here.
2015 NPLD Project Report - Tyng's Grave - AFC - Expedition Utah
We rebuilt a new fence around Tyngs grave with the same specifications as the original intending to restore it to its former glory. Its no wonder Tyng wanted to rest in this beautiful place.
We hope to repair the sign as part of a future project.
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Had a similar issue with my Merit type plug on my ARB cord and remedied it by purchasing a screw in type. Much better way than the standard push in type.
- Thread starter
- #127
That looks like a nice solution for the plug and mounting panel.
I haven't checked up on this thread in a bit as I have been busy with some other large projects. Legusy has been seeing some more use lately with a recent trip to Little Sahara Recreation Area with Wasatch Cruisers.
We took a tour around Sand Mountain.
We are looking forward to some more trips in the near future and I will be working to catch up and make some progress on a few things in the works.
I haven't checked up on this thread in a bit as I have been busy with some other large projects. Legusy has been seeing some more use lately with a recent trip to Little Sahara Recreation Area with Wasatch Cruisers.
We took a tour around Sand Mountain.
We are looking forward to some more trips in the near future and I will be working to catch up and make some progress on a few things in the works.
- Thread starter
- #128
As you can see in my last picture, Legusy is sporting a new Trasharoo and my water jerry can is MIA. Well I guess some savage decided that they needed them more than I did, as I noticed them missing with the strap cut just before a previous trip to Golden Spike Historical Monument. I am glad that more items were not missing. I like to utilize external storage systems like my bumper/ carrier and roof rack for certain items while saving interior space for other things including passengers and their effects. I also feel a need to be more vigilant in securing or removing items while not in use.
My first step was to replace the Trasharoo and water can as I consider them essential equipment. I have used a couple water cans modified with a spout for several years on different vehicles as I really appreciate the convenient access to water.
Since I have had reliable success with this setup, I thought that I would document it here. Its pretty simple to figure out yourself, though I have a few ideas that might help.
In this case, I started with a 5 gallon plastic can that I got from Amazon. Its BPA free and MIL spec which does the trick. I have used Scepters in the past too. I use a 1/2" 1/4 turn ball valve that is angled at 45 degrees. You can probably find this at your local hardware store easily enough. I really like the 1/4 turn ball valve over a screw type cause its easier to use, fast and smooth. I use 1/2" PVC pipe with a double male thread about 1-1.5" long. It wont rust or corrode and should fit nicely. I used a galvanized 3/4 washer on the outside with a rubber washer on either side of the can and a plastic washer nut on the inside. I try to avoid any metal in the can. Then I mark the desired location of my spout and drill a 13/16 hole in the Jerry can. Its a pretty snug fit all around and the washers, threads and nut hold it all together. I haven't had any leaks with this setup in around 10 years of use.
My first step was to replace the Trasharoo and water can as I consider them essential equipment. I have used a couple water cans modified with a spout for several years on different vehicles as I really appreciate the convenient access to water.
Since I have had reliable success with this setup, I thought that I would document it here. Its pretty simple to figure out yourself, though I have a few ideas that might help.
In this case, I started with a 5 gallon plastic can that I got from Amazon. Its BPA free and MIL spec which does the trick. I have used Scepters in the past too. I use a 1/2" 1/4 turn ball valve that is angled at 45 degrees. You can probably find this at your local hardware store easily enough. I really like the 1/4 turn ball valve over a screw type cause its easier to use, fast and smooth. I use 1/2" PVC pipe with a double male thread about 1-1.5" long. It wont rust or corrode and should fit nicely. I used a galvanized 3/4 washer on the outside with a rubber washer on either side of the can and a plastic washer nut on the inside. I try to avoid any metal in the can. Then I mark the desired location of my spout and drill a 13/16 hole in the Jerry can. Its a pretty snug fit all around and the washers, threads and nut hold it all together. I haven't had any leaks with this setup in around 10 years of use.
I love having a spout on my MWC. This is the one I used off amazon. Its probably not as robust as what you've used but like you I haven't had any leaks with it which is nice.
Scott, can you post the link the your fire extinguisher? I forgot to ask for it after talking to you about them at the dunes.
Scott, can you post the link the your fire extinguisher? I forgot to ask for it after talking to you about them at the dunes.
- Thread starter
- #130
That looks like a decent spout that comes with all the hardware, so its probably an easier option. Sometimes I just do things the hard way. 
As for the extinguisher, based on interest, I added content to an earlier post#5 to keep this thread organized. HTH
2001 LX470 build LEGUSY
As for the extinguisher, based on interest, I added content to an earlier post#5 to keep this thread organized. HTH
2001 LX470 build LEGUSY
Thanks for that link, those extinguishers are cheaper than I thought which is GOOD.
I think I saw someone link to that spout on expo which is why I went with it. I remember trying to get it installed at the last minute last year before the club swell run and after I drilled it out I tried to stick my arm in there to thread on the back side nut but couldn't get my fat forearm through the spout. I had my mom do it for me lol. Robust is good though, mine will break way before yours will.
I think I saw someone link to that spout on expo which is why I went with it. I remember trying to get it installed at the last minute last year before the club swell run and after I drilled it out I tried to stick my arm in there to thread on the back side nut but couldn't get my fat forearm through the spout. I had my mom do it for me lol. Robust is good though, mine will break way before yours will.
- Thread starter
- #132
I have made a bit of progress to add security and accountability to some of the items stored on the exterior of my vehicle.
When not in use, I plan to remove items, but often times I want to store equipment on the exterior of my vehicle so I would like to try a few things that are relatively simple yet may help to deter theft. I am open to suggestions, but here are a few of my approaches and ideas. I realize that if someone wants it bad enough, they can probably find a way to get it, though I hope that some of these measures will help to discourage thieves from pursuing my property.
- I plan to label as many items as reasonably possible whether engraved or painted etc. I have made a Kustm Bilt stencil as that is a name that represents an entity that I own.
- Numbered tracking labels help me identify containers so I can keep track of their contents and again point out that such items are likely and inventoried property.
- Locking containers and cables with similarly keyed locks that can be routed through items.
Here are a few basic pictures.
For accessibility, I plan to use this rampage jerry can to store some recovery gear and a few tools. The idea is to carry equipment that I will most likely only need for trail rides so that I can leave it at home for other travel and that it can be easily accessible and transportable in the event of a recovery situation where it may not be convenient to remove from inside of the vehicle.
These are some hardened locks that I was able to buy in a pack similarly keyed. I have been using these on a trailer that is kept outside for a few years, and they have recently started to develop corrosion issues. I don't know if there is a much better option for the price/use. Maybe I should have found a lock with covers, but I don't plan on leaving these out exposed to the elements all the time, beyond when I have accessories mounted.
I also have some of the front runner jerry can pads and some weatherstripping to keep the cans from banging around. I am also considering using a 2" strap for the jerry cans for various reasons.
When not in use, I plan to remove items, but often times I want to store equipment on the exterior of my vehicle so I would like to try a few things that are relatively simple yet may help to deter theft. I am open to suggestions, but here are a few of my approaches and ideas. I realize that if someone wants it bad enough, they can probably find a way to get it, though I hope that some of these measures will help to discourage thieves from pursuing my property.
- I plan to label as many items as reasonably possible whether engraved or painted etc. I have made a Kustm Bilt stencil as that is a name that represents an entity that I own.
- Numbered tracking labels help me identify containers so I can keep track of their contents and again point out that such items are likely and inventoried property.
- Locking containers and cables with similarly keyed locks that can be routed through items.
Here are a few basic pictures.
For accessibility, I plan to use this rampage jerry can to store some recovery gear and a few tools. The idea is to carry equipment that I will most likely only need for trail rides so that I can leave it at home for other travel and that it can be easily accessible and transportable in the event of a recovery situation where it may not be convenient to remove from inside of the vehicle.
These are some hardened locks that I was able to buy in a pack similarly keyed. I have been using these on a trailer that is kept outside for a few years, and they have recently started to develop corrosion issues. I don't know if there is a much better option for the price/use. Maybe I should have found a lock with covers, but I don't plan on leaving these out exposed to the elements all the time, beyond when I have accessories mounted.
I also have some of the front runner jerry can pads and some weatherstripping to keep the cans from banging around. I am also considering using a 2" strap for the jerry cans for various reasons.
- Thread starter
- #133
Alternator and circuit protection upgrade.
I had been experiencing some lower charging voltages that were at times below 13 volts. I decided to upgrade to the 150 amp Sequoia version over the stock 100A. Fortunately, it was a great fit and I did not need to remove the extra mounting tab. I selected a Duralast unit based on the price, availability and warranty. I obtained the OE connector and changed it out.
I removed the alternator from the top by moving the power steering pump over near the air cleaner. I needed to remove the power steering reservoir and disconnect the low pressure hoses to address a loose hose clamp, change the fluid and allow for the pump movement so it was an easy hat trick. It also allowed for the best access to the wiring.
Here are a couple photos that show the difference between the 2 units.
The extra mounting tab sits right in front of a bolt. The hole did not line up even with the bolt. It was a bit close at .045 inches but it doesn't contact and isn't going anywhere. The alternator needs to be removed anyway to access the front cover, and that seems to be fine for my purposes.
I moved the wires to the appropriate locations in the new connector. I also installed another OE style pin in the unused connector space and taped it off to keep the wiring weather tight (not shown).
I had been experiencing some lower charging voltages that were at times below 13 volts. I decided to upgrade to the 150 amp Sequoia version over the stock 100A. Fortunately, it was a great fit and I did not need to remove the extra mounting tab. I selected a Duralast unit based on the price, availability and warranty. I obtained the OE connector and changed it out.
I removed the alternator from the top by moving the power steering pump over near the air cleaner. I needed to remove the power steering reservoir and disconnect the low pressure hoses to address a loose hose clamp, change the fluid and allow for the pump movement so it was an easy hat trick. It also allowed for the best access to the wiring.
Here are a couple photos that show the difference between the 2 units.
The extra mounting tab sits right in front of a bolt. The hole did not line up even with the bolt. It was a bit close at .045 inches but it doesn't contact and isn't going anywhere. The alternator needs to be removed anyway to access the front cover, and that seems to be fine for my purposes.
I moved the wires to the appropriate locations in the new connector. I also installed another OE style pin in the unused connector space and taped it off to keep the wiring weather tight (not shown).
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- Thread starter
- #134
Now, as far as circuit protection goes I went overkill. I realize this, as I am taking precautions and I would rather side on the safe side. So here is a bit of my thought process.
I figure that though the new alternator is rated at 150A, it is quite possibly capable of more if the draw is there. I think that my circuit protection needs to exceed the highest possible load unless there is a short which will blow most fuses in short order. So, all I'm really protecting from is a short to ground. I could only anticipate my load at this time, but I figured, that if there was a chance during heavy winching (or welding), with both batteries connected and possibly depleted, that I could draw a lot from my alternator. So I decided to increase the fuse rating. I wasn't able to find an OE style fuse of more that 140A (which I'm told is what the Sequoia comes with, and is probably enough considering how many fuses come off the alternator circuit) So I decided to run a separate ANL 180A fuse for the alternator to battery. I realize that there are several other fuses coming from this circuit protecting the other vehicle loads, so I have the option to easily revert to the factory fuse and use this space for another load like an amplifier (If I decide that its unnecessary).
EDIT: I later decided to revert back to the stock alternator fusing. This was done after some testing did not seem to require more protection. I decided that the fuse holder was put to better use with a 100A fuse to supply the audio system amplifier.
In either case I had the intention to add protection for the winch and the dual battery so I did this all at the same time. I installed a separate 250A fuse for the dual battery solenoid and a cutoff switch for the winch. Since the winch is not fused, I can disconnect it when not in use, or connect it to both batteries from one switch rated at 500A.
When I installed the Alternator, I also ran a new 4 gauge B+ wire. I thought about the capacity and the voltage drop, and though this seemed like plenty, I wasn't about to remove the stock wire, so I connected them both as heavier wire will allow the current to flow with less voltage drop.
Here are a couple photos to show the wiring diagram and changes as well as the fuse and switch mounting.
I figure that though the new alternator is rated at 150A, it is quite possibly capable of more if the draw is there. I think that my circuit protection needs to exceed the highest possible load unless there is a short which will blow most fuses in short order. So, all I'm really protecting from is a short to ground. I could only anticipate my load at this time, but I figured, that if there was a chance during heavy winching (or welding), with both batteries connected and possibly depleted, that I could draw a lot from my alternator. So I decided to increase the fuse rating. I wasn't able to find an OE style fuse of more that 140A (which I'm told is what the Sequoia comes with, and is probably enough considering how many fuses come off the alternator circuit) So I decided to run a separate ANL 180A fuse for the alternator to battery. I realize that there are several other fuses coming from this circuit protecting the other vehicle loads, so I have the option to easily revert to the factory fuse and use this space for another load like an amplifier (If I decide that its unnecessary).
EDIT: I later decided to revert back to the stock alternator fusing. This was done after some testing did not seem to require more protection. I decided that the fuse holder was put to better use with a 100A fuse to supply the audio system amplifier.
In either case I had the intention to add protection for the winch and the dual battery so I did this all at the same time. I installed a separate 250A fuse for the dual battery solenoid and a cutoff switch for the winch. Since the winch is not fused, I can disconnect it when not in use, or connect it to both batteries from one switch rated at 500A.
When I installed the Alternator, I also ran a new 4 gauge B+ wire. I thought about the capacity and the voltage drop, and though this seemed like plenty, I wasn't about to remove the stock wire, so I connected them both as heavier wire will allow the current to flow with less voltage drop.
Here are a couple photos to show the wiring diagram and changes as well as the fuse and switch mounting.
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- Thread starter
- #135
I replaced the boots on the Drivers side CV axle, as a small crack was starting to leak. When doing so, I had that moment of foresight that the inner and outer cage and 6 steel balls could all come falling apart. Though I already marked them prior to disassembly, I though I would try going one step further. I wrapped them tightly with Caution tape that stretched around the assembly and a bit of duct tape held it in place. I was able to keep them from coming apart as I removed and installed them. so, I though that tip might help save someone else a bit of grief.
As you might have noticed, I left the engine cover off for now. I'm seriously contemplating leaving it off as it really just gets in the way. Any thoughts as to why I should put it back on?
The winch cutoff switch sits a bit high in the engine compartment. It looked like the clearance might be tight, but after 500 miles and about 100 of it on dirt, there are no signs of contact with the hood liner. I am surprised by now much room there really is in there.
As you might have noticed, I left the engine cover off for now. I'm seriously contemplating leaving it off as it really just gets in the way. Any thoughts as to why I should put it back on?
The winch cutoff switch sits a bit high in the engine compartment. It looked like the clearance might be tight, but after 500 miles and about 100 of it on dirt, there are no signs of contact with the hood liner. I am surprised by now much room there really is in there.
This is an awesome build! I really love your LX. I'm in the infant stages of building mine and have a question. I really like the frontrunner rail/bars but cant seem to find them on their site for the 100. Did your friend custom order them? Also, is the faring from them too? I really want the same setup but can't seem to find what you have.
Thanks for the awesome read!
Thanks for the awesome read!
- Thread starter
- #137
Thanks for the positive encouragement.
The Front Runner roof rack cross bars that I a am using are 1400mm. They did come with the vehicle from the Previous owner, but I'm not sure how he ordered them. Like you mentioned, I do not see them listed for the 100 series on their site, though they do have a variety of options that can be ordered in different configurations.
http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/load-bars/roof-load-bar-kits.html
You should be able to call them and get what you need. My crossbars utilize the shorter 50mm legs and they are adjustable. I made several adjustments to this rack and Front Runner support was very helpful in obtaining replacement hardware. The fairing that I am using is not made by Front Runner, it came with the vehicle and there are lots of options out there.
I also have one of the stainless camp tables that I am currently working on installing, so look for that post here soon.
The Front Runner roof rack cross bars that I a am using are 1400mm. They did come with the vehicle from the Previous owner, but I'm not sure how he ordered them. Like you mentioned, I do not see them listed for the 100 series on their site, though they do have a variety of options that can be ordered in different configurations.
http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/load-bars/roof-load-bar-kits.html
You should be able to call them and get what you need. My crossbars utilize the shorter 50mm legs and they are adjustable. I made several adjustments to this rack and Front Runner support was very helpful in obtaining replacement hardware. The fairing that I am using is not made by Front Runner, it came with the vehicle and there are lots of options out there.
I also have one of the stainless camp tables that I am currently working on installing, so look for that post here soon.
WOW! Great build. I really like a lot of your ideas and wish I had half your fab skills for my own build!
- Thread starter
- #140
Much thanks for the kind words. Its so nice to get positive feedback and encouragement. I also appreciate all the ideas that I get from this forum. I have done several other builds, but this is the first one that I have really documented in a thread. Some of the stuff probably doesn't make a post, But I try to get the notable things in here in hopes that it helps to give others ideas. Its also nice to look back and have the documentation to see how things progress. Like many, I have several other projects going on at the same time, so its nice to get things done here as I hope to put them to use ASAP.
