Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (1 Viewer)

[Odyseuss]

10mm bolts were used for the rear fasteners with a semi captive nut design that doesn’t require a wrench on the top side.

Some notches and gussets were added to the rear plate for more driveshaft and exhaust clearance and strength. (not shown)

It’s a bit sloppy, while the several coats of oil based primer and paint dry.

During some early testing, I was able to lift the vehicle a bit with a floor jack under the plate. I'm sure it will be put to the test, so we'll see how it holds up.

 

[KraziAzn]

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10mm bolts were used for the rear fasteners with a semi captive nut design that doesn’t require a wrench on the top side.
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Some notches and gussets were added to the rear plate for more driveshaft and exhaust clearance and strength. (not shown)

It’s a bit sloppy, while the several coats of oil based primer and paint dry.

During some early testing, I was able to lift the vehicle a bit with a floor jack under the plate. I'm sure it will be put to the test, so we'll see how it holds up.

I envy you. I wish I have the skills/equipment to fabricate my own skids.

 

[geanes]

@Odyseuss .... you're now my hero. Excellent job and impressive work there with that skid!

 

[krice118]

@ikarus .... you're now my hero. Excellent job and impressive work there with that skid!

I get ikarus and odyseuss mixed up too. 2 awesomely capable LX with guys who are super talented

 

[geanes]

I get ikarus and odyseuss mixed up too. 2 awesomely capable LX with guys who are super talented

Hadn't had my coffee yet Doh!

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks guys.

I wish I could take pictures like @ikarus unfortunately I have a bad track record for crashing drones.

 

[ikarus]

I get ikarus and odyseuss mixed up too. 2 awesomely capable LX with guys who are super talented

Thanks guys.

I wish I could take pictures like @ikarus unfortunately I have a bad track record for crashing drones.

Ha. And I wish I had the fab skills of @Odyseuss

 

[Odyseuss]

We'll have to get together one of these days and share a few tips.

With the skid plates off, I took the opportunity to service the rear drive shaft. I had been having a slight vibration before the Lockhart trip, and it was a bit more noticeable after. The shaft had some candy cane stripes from contact with a rock, but does not seem dented. I put a straight edge along it and didn't see any deformities aside from the scratched paint. The front U-Joint did seem to have some very slight play, so I replaced it with the Spicer 5- 1510X version. It has a grease zerk on the end of the joint that is more easily accessible, though I would not run it at the rear diff, cause it would be in harms way there. I also replaced the zerk at the slip yoke and sprayed another quick coat of paint to touch up the driveline.

I also got the tires rebalanced, yet the vibration still persists. I'm still on the case, and I'll get around to sorting it out.

 

[Odyseuss]

I replaced another set of rear brake pads, as one of them was a little more worn than the others and starting to squeal on the indicator. The caliper pins were a bit stiff, so I cleaned and lubed them well. I was in a hurry, so I threw in some cheap new pads that I had sitting around. They had an annoying squeal just before a slow stop, and I thought it might be the glazed rotors, so I had them turned and resurfaced the pads. The noise was still there, so I made another trip to my friends at Cruiser Outfitters for some of the same pads that I used before in post #250. @cruiseroutfit hooked me up with another set of the BRAD0773 Advics. This time I noticed that these pads had a different design and now included the center channel in the center of the pad. I've had issues with getting debris stuck in there in the past, but I installed them anyways and now they are quiet again.

I have had issues with the metal shield that mounts to the rear calipers. In the past, its been hit with debris and dented or even broken and often bent against the caliper. There are a lot of brake designs that do not use a metal shield like this and seem to work fine without them. I expect that they are intended to protect the slider pin boots and keep debris out of the caliper assembly. I have replaced them in the past, but I think htey are just as likely to trap debris as they are to keep it out. I don't think that they are serving much purpose in my case and I decided to remove them. I've since driven hundreds of dirt and mud miles without them with no ill effect. I'll keep an eye on things, but I think they might be more problematic than they are a benefit.

 

[Odyseuss]

All painted up with several thick coats and ready for use.

The skid plates are all mounted up and ready for another good shake down.

This is what the T-case access looks like.

The rear plate that I made fit well with the other Dissent plates from @benc . I made a few changes to the mounting hardware.
These are the new semi-captive nuts for the rear plate.

 

[Odyseuss]

I used 4- 10x1.25 bolts for the rear mounts. I reused the 7 conical head allen bolts with the low profile aluminum washers. I found several/enough OE style 8x1.25 bolts with the captive washers that allows me to use the same 12mm socket that is common on the truck and keeps the washers organized with the bolts.

We made it out to the desert for a day of shooting and I brought a remnant of the 3/16 plate for target practice. The material seems very stout as is, but as expected, doesn't stand a chance to rifle rounds. I know there are other materials and harder steels that are being used to hold up as targets and shields. And just as well, there are companies developing proprietary materials to make stronger lighter skid plates. It will be interesting to see how these develop.

 

[civil offroad]

I used 4- 10x1.25 bolts for the rear mounts. I reused the 7 conical head allen bolts with the low profile aluminum washers. I found several/enough OE style 8x1.25 bolts with the captive washers that allows me to use the same 12mm socket that is common on the truck and keeps the washers organized with the bolts.
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We made it out to the desert for a day of shooting and I brought a remnant of the 3/16 plate for target practice. The material seems very stout as is, but as expected, doesn't stand a chance to rifle rounds. I know there are other materials and harder steels that are being used to hold up as targets and shields. And just as well, there are companies developing proprietary materials to make stronger lighter skid plates. It will be interesting to see how these develop.
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My kind of fun... Although its being slowly taken away from us here in California....

 

[Odyseuss]

@civil offroad I hear you there. I enjoy getting out to go shooting when I can and would like to do it more often. I don't take our right for granted and I appreciate the responsibility.

 

[Odyseuss]

I rigged up a flag to comply with the OHV regulations that I can stow with the ARB awning and made a trip out to Sand Hollow State Park OHV Rec area. We hit a variety of trails from mellow trails to rocky technical sections and lots of Dunes.

We then went on a search down memory lane in Hurricane to find the remains of an old business and building that my father in laws grandfather once owned and sold mercantile including Studebakers and other equipment from. We found a remnant of an old sidewalk that marked the Business and made a rubbing transfer of the inscription. It was pretty cool for my son to participate in this piece of history that preceded him by 4 generations. We then explored the interior of the business that is still selling various items of interest and antique consignment. So, we did a little black Friday shopping and found some cool treasures before heading back.

 

[TheForger]

I used 4- 10x1.25 bolts for the rear mounts. I reused the 7 conical head allen bolts with the low profile aluminum washers. I found several/enough OE style 8x1.25 bolts with the captive washers that allows me to use the same 12mm socket that is common on the truck and keeps the washers organized with the bolts.
View attachment 1836812
View attachment 1836815
We made it out to the desert for a day of shooting and I brought a remnant of the 3/16 plate for target practice. The material seems very stout as is, but as expected, doesn't stand a chance to rifle rounds. I know there are other materials and harder steels that are being used to hold up as targets and shields. And just as well, there are companies developing proprietary materials to make stronger lighter skid plates. It will be interesting to see how these develop.
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Cool to see what y'all did to that target! What did y'all send at it? .308??

 

[Odyseuss]

Cool to see what y'all did to that target! What did y'all send at it? .308??

There might have been a .308 in there, but most of the holes are 223 or 300 win mag. The 40 S&W put a dent on the left side and I think there is a 22 on the right and the reverse side.

 

[Odyseuss]

Like I mentioned earlier, I had a bit of a vibration after the carnage in Lockhart Basin and the rear driveline had some candy cane striping scratches on it. It didn't appear to have any dents, though after changing the u-joint the vibe was still there. I swapped the shaft with another 100 for the trip down south to Sand Hollow and things were smooth again on my end. My friend noticed the slight shake at ~70mph on his rig though, so I knew it had to be the driveshaft. I took it to a local driveline shop for further examination. I had heard from others that due to the unique size of these shafts and the fact that they were friction welded, they were not able to get them repaired and ended up going the route of an OE replacement. The shop I used did indicate some minor damage in the area that this shaft had been hit and was able to cut off the original tube and pilot another tube of .083 to be welded on, and then balanced. The original tube as shown here was .065.

Once installed, the result was a thicker tube material, spinning smooth once again.

 

[I Lean]

Like I mentioned earlier, I had a bit of a vibration after the carnage in Lockhart Basin and the rear driveline had some candy cane striping scratches on it. It didn't appear to have any dents, though after changing the u-joint the vibe was still there. I swapped the shaft with another 100 for the trip down south to Sand Hollow and things were smooth again on my end. My friend noticed the slight shake at ~70mph on his rig though, so I knew it had to be the driveshaft. I took it to a local driveline shop for further examination. I had heard from others that due to the unique size of these shafts and the fact that they were friction welded, they were not able to get them repaired and ended up going the route of an OE replacement. The shop I used did indicate some minor damage in the area that this shaft had been hit and was able to cut off the original tube and pilot another tube of .083 to be welded on, and then balanced. The original tube as shown here was .065.

Once installed, the result was a thicker tube material, spinning smooth once again.

Nice!

What shop did the work? (since I have also been denied having the 100 driveshaft worked on due to the friction welded assembly)

 

[Odyseuss]

Nice!

What shop did the work? (since I have also been denied having the 100 driveshaft worked on due to the friction welded assembly)

Slyco Drivelines in SLC.

 

[SmoothLC]

Nice work as always @Odyseuss.

Looks like you had good weather down south too.

I need to plan a combo bike/off-road trip down there in the spring.

I love riding in that area.