2000 LX470 ATF Fluid Exchange (2 Viewers)

[maxwoodland]

I'm new here. Hi.

I've owned 4 Toyota's over the last 15 years and currently have 2 in my driveway. My wife's 2000 LX470 (195k miles) and my 2019 Tundra Limited (73k miles). I have vowed to never take my cars to a mechanic again. I feel competent on the basics (fluid changes/brakes/spark plugs/general maintenance) but obviously have gaps in knowledge.

I just replaced all the fluids in the wife's LX470. The ATF is the last thing to check off the list.

I've searched hi and low on this forum for the "definitive" step by step procedure for exchanging the ATF using the cooler hose method. I have found all the information I need from a few different threads and I'm about ready to tackle this job.

Here's my main contemplation:

It seems to me, please correct me if I'm wrong, that there's no real reason to drop the pan. It's in good shape and still has a healthy factory seal, doesn't leak and the screen inside seems like it doesn't really need to be replaced. Why open a can of worms and worry about re-sealing with the FIPG (form in place gasket) and I trust the magnets inside are still doing their job.

My thought is,

STEP 1: Drain the approximate 2 quarts from the ATF drain plug.
STEP 2: Use my siphon pump to extract the rest of the ATF from the pan through the drain plug hole.
STEP 3: Refill fresh fluid through the dipstick the same amount I took out.
STEP 4: Perform the "cooler hose" exchange method until ATF is running clean (about 14-16 qts).

I feel like this method will get me 90-95% new fluid which is good enough for me.

Do I really need to drop the pan?

 

[dbleon]

I’m no expert but ..
IMO don’t drop the pan unless leaking.

Should be a simple chore on that rig. You got the right idea. FYI Many people like to use a synthetic fluid. Mine is an 05 so I stuck with the Toy WS $$ ouch

Have fun

 

[maxwoodland]

I’m no expert but ..
IMO don’t drop the pan unless leaking.

Should be a simple chore on that rig. You got the right idea. FYI Many people like to use a synthetic fluid. Mine is an 05 so I stuck with the Toy WS $$ ouch

Have fun

Perfect! Thanks for your reply!

 

[SteveH]

How long do you plan to keep the vehicle? At 75K miles, I would not drop the pan. At 200K, I would. Trucks that make it to 300, 400, and 500K miles have usually had stronger maintenance work. No shops (IMO) are competent to rebuild Toyota automatics, so you'll be looking at a used one, or a 'factory reman' that is between $3500-$7000 (per the trans. shops that I talked to).

While the pan is off, you can replace/clean the 'filter/screen', clean the pan and magnets and look for things that shouldn't be in the pan (roller bearing bits, shavings, etc.) If it's all good, you'll sleep better. Yes, it's a messy, time-consuming job, but cheaper and easier than replacing the transmission. You'll learn a little bit, too, while doing this. Your wife won't care, however.

 

[maxwoodland]

How long do you plan to keep the vehicle? At 75K miles, I would not drop the pan. At 200K, I would. Trucks that make it to 300, 400, and 500K miles have usually had stronger maintenance work. No shops (IMO) are competent to rebuild Toyota automatics, so you'll be looking at a used one, or a 'factory reman' that is between $3500-$7000 (per the trans. shops that I talked to).

While the pan is off, you can replace/clean the 'filter/screen', clean the pan and magnets and look for things that shouldn't be in the pan (roller bearing bits, shavings, etc.) If it's all good, you'll sleep better. Yes, it's a messy, time-consuming job, but cheaper and easier than replacing the transmission. You'll learn a little bit, too, while doing this. Your wife won't care, however.

Very good comment. I do hear you on the stronger maintenance being that the truck has $195k. That said, it does drive like it's new and shifts just fine. If I dropped the pan, what's your. thought on the FIPG vs a gasket that I buy. I have read a lot about amateurs like me messing up the seal. The surfaces have to be perfectly clean and dry. Too little sealant and it will eventually leak. Too much and some could get into the trans pan. Am I over thinking it?

 

[SteveH]

I would always run a gasket if possible, and put a thin coating of FIPG on both sides before install. Tighten to spec (very low) and run with it.

Is the trans gasket a true Toyota service item, or just an aftermarket gasket for shops that can't manage FIPG? I have not done my '99 trans filter yet (330K miles) because the PO did it before I got it.

Related: My brother just found a plugged filter on a '00 V6 Camry (317K) and replaced the filter, and found that a whine (due to restricted trans fluid flow) went away. I don't think this '99 had ever had the pan pulled and filter replaced and it was clearly overdue.

 

[maxwoodland]

I would always run a gasket if possible, and put a thin coating of FIPG on both sides before install. Tighten to spec (very low) and run with it.

Is the trans gasket a true Toyota service item, or just an aftermarket gasket for shops that can't manage FIPG? I have not done my '99 trans filter yet (330K miles) because the PO did it before I got it.

Related: My brother just found a plugged filter on a '00 V6 Camry (317K) and replaced the filter, and found that a whine (due to restricted trans fluid flow) went away. I don't think this '99 had ever had the pan pulled and filter replaced and it was clearly overdue.

On the 4 speed (trans with dipstick) there is no OEM gasket. The pan calls for FIPG (part # 00295-01281). There are some aftermarket gaskets available for the 4 speed. On the 5 speed (no trans dipstick), there is a true Toyota OEM gasket.

I think I feel pretty good about not dropping the pan on this service. I'm going to do the cooler fluid exchange method. If things start whining or it's not shifting right I'll drop the pan at that point and assess the situation.

Thanks guys for all help and info!

 

[fjc-man]

I have read where a series (say 1200 miles) of 2-3 qt drain and fills will get you the same results.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I have read where a series (say 1200 miles) of 2-3 qt drain and fills will get you the same results.

This is what I have been doing. its like 4 qts i think? just put the same amount back. its not as efficient but it's easy and works well.

 

[TequilaMechanic]

This is what I have been doing. its like 4 qts i think? just put the same amount back. its not as efficient but it's easy and works well.

Yeah probably 3.5 qts. Once I start hearing it overflow, I reinstall the plug and then drop in the last 1/2 qt. Then I run the engine and drain the overflow once temp reached.

 

[BnvS]

How long do you plan to keep the vehicle? At 75K miles, I would not drop the pan. At 200K, I would. Trucks that make it to 300, 400, and 500K miles have usually had stronger maintenance work. No shops (IMO) are competent to rebuild Toyota automatics, so you'll be looking at a used one, or a 'factory reman' that is between $3500-$7000 (per the trans. shops that I talked to).

While the pan is off, you can replace/clean the 'filter/screen', clean the pan and magnets and look for things that shouldn't be in the pan (roller bearing bits, shavings, etc.) If it's all good, you'll sleep better. Yes, it's a messy, time-consuming job, but cheaper and easier than replacing the transmission. You'll learn a little bit, too, while doing this. Your wife won't care, however.

Hmm at 200k miles if the Toyo was taken care of by doing transmission fluid changes ever 50-60k or so I would not recommend doing a Pan drop. At 200k if maintained well and not driven by a Banshee the Toyota transmission are still in very good shape. At 300-400k mile mark I would do a Pan drop with filter change. IMHO the pan drop with filter change for Toyota transmissions when maintained well, should only be done once in the transmission's lifetime. Other than that just do a fluid change every 30k-40k for older high milage tranny's i.e. over 250k.

 

[2001LC]

I stopped dropping A/T pan, long ago. To little benefits for to much labor.

I drain pan for about 10 minutes, measuring ever drop that comes out.
Install drain plug with new washer (gasket) and torque to 13ft-lbf.
Then add back what came out, plus ~1/2 qt. through dipstick (98-03)
Then use engine to pump out of, A/T cooler return metal pipe niple to catch can. As I add through dipstick. Measuring even drop out and in.

I underfill until later, during topping procedure at 156 to 176f A/T #1 temp. Since easy to add more through dipstick (98-03).

In non dipstick (04-up). I overfill by ~1/2, than drain off excesses during topping procedure at 96f to 115f A/T #1 temp.

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

Differentials and transfer case gear lube. I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose...

forum.ih8mud.com

I use only Mobil 1 MV ATF in 98-02.
I'm now using Mobil full synthetic in 04-up (note this is not the same as Mobil 1)

 

[Africaster]

I stopped dropping A/T pan, long ago. To little benefits for to much labor.

I drain pan for about 10 minutes, measuring ever drop that comes out.
Install drain plug with new washer (gasket) and torque to 13ft-lbf.
Then add back what came out, plus ~1/2 qt. through dipstick (98-03)
Then use engine to pump out of, A/T cooler return metal pipe niple to catch can. As I add through dipstick. Measuring even drop out and in.

I underfill until later, during topping procedure at 156 to 176f A/T #1 temp. Since easy to add more through dipstick (98-03).

Thanks for this guidance LC100 … if you wouldn’t mind, please expand a bit on the 2 steps highlighted in RED above, I’ve lost the plot a bit. Appreciated

 

[donco]

I purchased our 2000 with 31k miles. It now has 247k miles. I have been doing periodic 4 qt +/- drain and fills with Amsoil ATF and it still drives and shifts flawlessly, even with occasional heavy towing. I have had previous Ford and BMW transmissions with high mileage fail when changing all of the fluid at once. I like to start with a couple 2 qt. drain & fills about 50 miles apart, then proceed with draining and filling more amounts later on. My theory is new ATF is highly detergent and aggressively cleans crud embedded in the clutch plates, to the extent of attacking the clutch material and adhesive and removing some of it as well on high mileage transmissions (say with 100k+ miles) that have never had the fluid changed before -- best to leave them alone and live out the rest of their natural life.

I wrote a simple Qbasic program to calculate the percentage of new vs. old ATF when doing partial drain & fills. It takes about 22 to 23 quarts to approach 98% new fluid when doing it that way. The executable was written for 32-bit computers and may not run on newer 64-bit machines unless one diddles with running it in compatibility mode, but you can do the same thing manually with a calculator knowing the total capacity and the amount of new/old quantities with each successive drain/fill cycle:

Percent new fluid calculator

 

[Rpreme]

Although I can't find a service interval for transmission fluid, I'm thinking I'm about due for the transmission drain and fill. I have a 98 LC and the history shows that Toyota did a "Transmission Fluid Flush" 60k miles ago. Should I just do a drain and fill of what comes out? Or just inspect the fluid first and if it's still red, just keep going? Also, if a drain and fill is needed, am I good to use Toyota ATF WS auto transmission fluid?

Also, does anyone know the PN for the crush washer for the trans plug?

Thanks in advanced.

 

[Land Shark]

should be 35178-30010

 

[donco]

The last time I drained it, I had a hard time removing the drain plug since I over-tightened it the time before. The drain plug is pretty soft and stretches if not careful. In addition to the crush washer above, the part number for the drain plug is 90341-10011. New OEM drain plug and crush washer on ebay for about $10

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for this guidance LC100 … if you wouldn’t mind, please expand a bit on the 2 steps highlighted in RED above, I’ve lost the plot a bit. Appreciated

I measure what comes out. First from AT pan drain plug, then from hose attached to cooler return niple going to catch can. My 3 gallon catch can, I marked at each qts level (1qt,2,3,4,5,6,7 and 8). I also keep track of every drop I add. 12 in 12 out.

See link I provide in post #12.

 

[2001LC]

I flush all 12qts of AT as a baseline ,always! In all 100 and 200 series.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

I have a 1999 LX470 with 292,000 miles which over 25 years had ATF done by Lexus 6 times per records before I bought it. I sent in my transmission fluid to blackstone labs couple months ago and it came back in great shape but i don't know the age of it and I know the last guy several years ago put in synthethic MV Valvoline though I called the shop and they had no record, only had of them doing it for power steering. Anyway back to the topic. I want the toyota (usually made my mobile 1) dexron 3 in there, conventional.

Back to ATF topic of drain and fills - I am doing 3-4 drain in fills spread over 2 months.
Now i have two friends who are master tech in toyota and lexus and have about 50 years experience between them. Both said for me to do 3-4 drain and fills over 1-2 months. Meaning 1 drain and fill and then drive it for 1-2 weeks and then another drain and fill. My car has no rust anywhere but they did not want me to at all move the clips off the cooler lines. Said its also easier on the tranmission to do it the way they both suggested and since my tranmission is already in good shape per the test results and borescope we put in to check it out...sure drop pan could have told us more but this has had 6 times fluid changes prior by Lexus we should be fine inside. So I've done now 2 drain and fills out of the 3-4 I am doing over course of 2 months and each time I get about 4 liters plus from my pan. About 4.5 liters. I have it also on ramps in the front. And let it drain 1 hour or so. I just leave it like that and can do other things and come back to it. Same with my engine oil. I let it drip much longer than a shop would. Why rush it. I want more out for each fluid and have the time and can do other things in between. I don't get 2-3liters like other suggested. Even within 30-40 mins I have about 4 liters in the drain pan which has measurements. Maybe ramps help me get more than others quickly?

I also replace crush washer at each drain and fill. Order a ton from Partsouq in Dubai as its like pennies there compared to $5 canadian here per each. Drain plug i'll replace every 2 years. Just put in a new one last month. Going to try the full fluid exchange method a bit later.