2000 LX470 ATF Fluid Exchange (1 Viewer)

[Rednexus]

It takes 10 minutes to drop the pan on a Toyota automatic. Zip off all of the 10 mm bolts with an impact driver (be careful if it's a super rusty rig), pry the pan off, clean out the gunk on the inside with paper towels and brake cleaner, replace with a new filter, then re-install. Lightly zip the 10mm bolts back in with the impact, then hand tighten for a few rounds. 30 minute job total from start to finish when the rig is already up in the air and you have the skids off. Add in another 15 minutes for cleaning FIPG off on a 4-speed rig. I did this job on a '02 Tundra with the 4-speed and we used a filter kit with a rubber gasket (same as the later 5-speed rigs) and it's been sealing totally fine. I've done the job at least 4 times on my A750F GX for various reasons (2 fluid exchanges, Nomad valve body install, and trans harness replacement).

If you're already getting messy and doing a full fluid replacement from the front of the vehicle, I don't see why wouldn't wouldn't drop the pan to get the gunk out. Otherwise the gunk is in there and will contaminate your new fluid. You'll be surprised how much you find. If the pan is full of metal shavings etc. it will also give you a forewarning that you have a trans issue.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

It takes 10 minutes to drop the pan on a Toyota automatic. Zip off all of the 10 mm bolts with an impact driver (be careful if it's a super rusty rig), pry the pan off, clean out the gunk on the inside with paper towels and brake cleaner, replace with a new filter, then re-install. Lightly zip the 10mm bolts back in with the impact, then hand tighten for a few rounds. 30 minute job total from start to finish when the rig is already up in the air and you have the skids off. Add in another 15 minutes for cleaning FIPG off on a 4-speed rig. I did this job on a '02 Tundra with the 4-speed and we used a filter kit with a rubber gasket (same as the later 5-speed rigs) and it's been sealing totally fine. I've done the job at least 4 times on my A750F GX for various reasons (2 fluid exchanges, Nomad valve body install, and trans harness replacement).

If you're already getting messy and doing a full fluid replacement from the front of the vehicle, I don't see why wouldn't wouldn't drop the pan to get the gunk out. Otherwise the gunk is in there and will contaminate your new fluid. You'll be surprised how much you find. If the pan is full of metal shavings etc. it will also give you a forewarning that you have a trans issue.

And that is when Car Care Nut stated you should do it. Or if experiencing leaks. But you'll have evidence also in the fluid and on the drain plug if you have a magnetic one and if you also have not had fluid done in a long time he recommended to check out the inside. Or if you find a large chunk or have proof that something has broken/ poor performance. The way the toyota filters are and their positions it is not necessary to do it as often compared to other manufacturers. Mine fortunately was done about 7 years ago. Pan drop, with a new toyota filter and new bolts put on. I am totally fine with concentrating on doing my 3-4 drain in fills over these two months and then doing d/f every 2 years and not doing the pan for another 10 years or so. And that is because of the condition of my transmission fluid via testing. Of course something major goes wrong, I'm dropping it then and taking a look.

 

[Rednexus]

Here is mine at a pan drop from April. It had been just 2 under years since the previous pan drop (for a Nomad valve body installation). Not too bad, but definitely some gunk in it (clutch friction material). I think that after 5+ years, these would get gunky, especially considering my Nomad valve body is likely reducing clutch wear relative to a stock trans. I probably won't drop the pan again until 2027.

I do agree that the actual filter replacement is almost unnecessary. I replace it anyway as it comes with the pan gasket and requires only 2 bolts to remove. But there are usually just a few specs of metal in it.

My fundamental opinion is that it's super-easy to pan drop and I'm conservative with fluids in general. I don't agree with the Car Care Nut on everything, but do agree on fluid intervals. 5K on the oil, yearly on the diffs (I drive through lots of water), 30-45K on the trans (I tow a lot), 30K on the PS fluid, 50K on the coolant. I also do all my own maintenance and repair on my vehicles and have been doing so for nearly 25 years at this point, so I have the tools and experience to quickly knock things like this out.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

Here is mine at a pan drop from April. It had been just 2 under years since the previous pan drop (for a Nomad valve body installation). Not too bad, but definitely some gunk in it (clutch friction material). I think that after 5+ years, these would get gunky, especially considering my Nomad valve body is likely reducing clutch wear relative to a stock trans. I probably won't drop the pan again until 2027.

View attachment 3697473
I do agree that the actual filter replacement is almost unnecessary. I replace it anyway as it comes with the pan gasket and requires only 2 bolts to remove. But there are usually just a few specs of metal in it.

My fundamental opinion is that it's super-easy to pan drop and I'm conservative with fluids in general. I don't agree with the Car Care Nut on everything, but do agree on fluid intervals. 5K on the oil, yearly on the diffs (I drive through lots of water), 30-45K on the trans (I tow a lot), 30K on the PS fluid, 50K on the coolant. I also do all my own maintenance and repair on my vehicles and have been doing so for nearly 25 years at this point, so I have the tools and experience to quickly knock things like this out.

Yup that makes sense! And ya mine is basically highway and some city. Won’t be building this for offloading until I get the 200 series in the next year. So right now it’s not taking really a beating and I don’t tow. But ya definitely not that hard of a job to drop the pan. And I agree I’d just change the filter if I dropped the pan. Original new pan and filter parts not that expensive from impex Japan and Partsouq. If I wanted new pan also. Yup I’m basically doing same intervals as you except coolant I am doing at 30k. Well this last time was 22k as last guy towed a bunch over his 20k ownership and hence I also wanted the atf out even though lab numbers came back great.

 

[maxwoodland]

On the 4 speed (trans with dipstick) there is no OEM gasket. The pan calls for FIPG (part # 00295-01281). There are some aftermarket gaskets available for the 4 speed. On the 5 speed (no trans dipstick), there is a true Toyota OEM gasket.

I think I feel pretty good about not dropping the pan on this service. I'm going to do the cooler fluid exchange method. If things start whining or it's not shifting right I'll drop the pan at that point and assess the situation.

Thanks guys for all help and info!

I stopped dropping A/T pan, long ago. To little benefits for to much labor.

I drain pan for about 10 minutes, measuring ever drop that comes out.
Install drain plug with new washer (gasket) and torque to 13ft-lbf.
Then add back what came out, plus ~1/2 qt. through dipstick (98-03)
Then use engine to pump out of, A/T cooler return metal pipe niple to catch can. As I add through dipstick. Measuring even drop out and in.

I underfill until later, during topping procedure at 156 to 176f A/T #1 temp. Since easy to add more through dipstick (98-03).

In non dipstick (04-up). I overfill by ~1/2, than drain off excesses during topping procedure at 96f to 115f A/T #1 temp.

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

Differentials and transfer case gear lube. I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose...

forum.ih8mud.com

I use only Mobil 1 MV ATF in 98-02.
I'm now using Mobil full synthetic in 04-up (note this is not the same as Mobil 1)

Amazing! This is pretty much my plan. What size hose do I need to connect on to the cooler nipple? Do you have pics or a write up of exactly which nipple you are extracting from? Thanks!!

 

[dbleon]

Amazing! This is pretty much my plan. What size hose do I need to connect on to the cooler nipple? Do you have pics or a write up of exactly which nipple you are extracting from? Thanks!!

3/8 ID

 

[2001LC]

I going to repeat myself.

Number one reason to do a full 12 qt flush at one time. I don't know what fluids have been added in vehicle A/T over its history. Mixing modern fluids is a bad idea. You think all fluid, ares the same, because D&F done at Dealership. Thing again! Many use bulk. I, also have no way to knowing, what some PO may have added.

The hose I disconnect from A/T oil cooler return hard line pipe. I've never had leak afterwards. If it did, I'd replace with OEM hose.

Over the years, I've done full 12 qt flush at least 400 times in 100 and 200 series. I've had only good results.

My feeling is, if one ever did fail afterwards. It was a bad transmission. May as well find out during PM, than 200 miles from nowhere.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

I going to repeat myself.

Number one reason to do a full 12 qt flush at one time. I don't know what fluids have been added in vehicle A/T over its history. Mixing modern fluids is a bad idea. You think all fluid, ares the same, because D&F done at Dealership. Thing again! Many use bulk. I, also have no way to knowing, what some PO may have added.

The hose I disconnect from A/T oil cooler return hard line pipe. I've never had leak afterwards. If it did, I'd replace with OEM hose.

Over the years, I've done full 12 qt flush at least 400 times in 100 and 200 series. I've had only good results.

My feeling is, if one ever did fail afterwards. It was a bad transmission. May as well find out during PM, than 200 miles from nowhere.

I agree with all that. Absolutely. And love your expertise and all the help you provide on here. Your write ups have helped many!

 

[Rednexus]

I going to repeat myself.

Number one reason to do a full 12 qt flush at one time. I don't know what fluids have been added in vehicle A/T over its history. Mixing modern fluids is a bad idea. You think all fluid, ares the same, because D&F done at Dealership. Thing again! Many use bulk. I, also have no way to knowing, what some PO may have added.

The hose I disconnect from A/T oil cooler return hard line pipe. I've never had leak afterwards. If it did, I'd replace with OEM hose.

Over the years, I've done full 12 qt flush at least 400 times in 100 and 200 series. I've had only good results.

My feeling is, if one ever did fail afterwards. It was a bad transmission. May as well find out during PM, than 200 miles from nowhere.

Agreed. When changing oil, we don't drain out 3 quarts and add 4 in at every oil change. We change all of it. The full flush is not a hard job with a helper and the rig on jackstands. Two hours of work or so with a pan drop. It's really, really easy with a Motive Power Fill.

The hardest part - on the later sealed transmissions - is re-filling through the plug on the back of the transmission (which is why I usually over-fill a bit from the front cooler hose to avoid having to open and use that plug). It's pretty darn easy for the models with a dipstick and the PowerFill is not even needed.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

Agreed. When changing oil, we don't drain out 3 quarts and add 4 in at every oil change. We change all of it. The full flush is not a hard job with a helper and the rig on jackstands. Two hours of work or so with a pan drop. It's really, really easy with a Motive Power Fill.

The hardest part - on the later sealed transmissions - is re-filling through the plug on the back of the transmission (which is why I usually over-fill a bit from the front cooler hose to avoid having to open and use that plug). It's pretty darn easy for the models with a dipstick and the PowerFill is not even needed.

View attachment 3697922

It absolutely isn't. And i do agree its good to get out all you can. Though not everyone may have all the equipment or space and if they don't, them still doing drain and fills is better than not doing it. Also, everyone just finding out if their transmission will break down now or 200 miles down the road, it won't if they have no records and approach things a bit calmly and do drain and fills. It's what's written in the FSM also. Drain and fills not this. I myself am totally fine with your approach.

 

[Rednexus]

Drain and fills when you've done a full flush in the past do seem to make sense as well. My comments was more on the "mix and match" - for a used rig with questionable history you'd want to get everything and replace with a known fluid. After that, it would seem to be more of a preference issue on doing regular drain and fills with the same fluid brand, or a full exchange.

My exchanges coincide with 3-year/~30-40K Fluid Film/Woolwax treatments, when the rig is already up in the air with all the tires and skid plates removed, so I'll keep going the exchange route. It would be more work for me to do drain-and-fills due to repeatedly dropping the trans skid and futzing with the 24 mm fill plug on the back of the A750F.

 

[WanderingWarrior]

Drain and fills when you've done a full flush in the past do seem to make sense as well. My comments was more on the "mix and match" - for a used rig with questionable history you'd want to get everything and replace with a known fluid. After that, it would seem to be more of a preference issue on doing regular drain and fills with the same fluid brand, or a full exchange.

My exchanges coincide with 3-year/~30-40K Fluid Film/Woolwax treatments, when the rig is already up in the air with all the tires and skid plates removed, so I'll keep going the exchange route. It would be more work for me to do drain-and-fills due to repeatedly dropping the trans skid and futzing with the 24 mm fill plug on the back of the A750F.

True true.

 

[2001LC]

Toyota bottles say or said, Exxon Mobil. Mobil 1 is division Exxon Mobil, that make only synthetic lubes. Mobil 1, has nothing to do with Toyota.

It's my understanding. Toyota and Exxon Mobil, built a joint plant, to refine lubes for Toyota. Seems, I heard that plant was sold. So Toyota WS ATF, may not have Exxon on, it may have a new name now.

In all A/T that call for Toyota II or III (Dexron II or III). I've always use Mobil 1 MV ATF. Mobil 1 states: it can be mixed with Deronn II or III. But I avoid doing so, expect short term for topping.

I stopped using Toyota IV and WS ATF a few years ago. I switched to Mobil (not the same as Mobil 1) full synthetic MV ATF. It is rated from Toyota III, IV and WS.

Some feel Toyota WS is a full synthetic, I don't. Toyota is to proud when it comes to pricing. They'd surely say Full synthetic and charge more.
I don't have anything against Toyota fluid. I just like full synthetics better.

Outside of the USA, Mobil 1 has a fluid rated for WS ATF, but not in USA. I"d used in all A/T, if they did.

 

[Rednexus]

Toyota bottles say or said, Exxon Mobil. Mobil 1 is division Exxon Mobil, that make only synthetic lubes. Mobil 1, has nothing to do with Toyota.

It's my understanding. Toyota and Exxon Mobil, built a joint plant, to refine lubes for Toyota. Seems, I heard that plant was sold. So Toyota WS ATF, may not have a new name now.

In all A/T that call for Toyota II or III (Dexron II or III). I've always use Mobil 1 MV ATF. Mobil 1 states: it can be mixed with Deronn II or III. But I avoid doing so, expect short term for topping.

I stopped using Toyota IV and WS ATF a few years ago. I switched to Mobil (not the same as Mobil 1) full synthetic MV ATF. It is rated from Toyota III, IV and WS.
Some feel Toyota WS is a full synthetic, I don't. Toyota is to proud when it comes to pricing. They'd surely say Full synthetic and charge more.
I don't have anything against Toyota fluid. I just like full synthetics better.

Outside of the USA, Mobil 1 has a fluid rated for WS ATF, but not in USA. I"d used in all A/T, if they did.

I would consider using Mobil MV ATF, but it's not available anywhere locally. MaxLife ATF is super-easy to find and also listed as WS compatible as well. It's about the only non-Mobil fluid that i use in my rig.

 

[2001LC]

I would consider using Mobil MV ATF, but it's not available anywhere locally. MaxLife ATF is super-easy to find and also listed as WS compatible as well. It's about the only non-Mobil fluid that i use in my rig.

Availability is important.

I've only been able to get Mobil MV, online. Sometimes waiting months.

 

[Les Summer]

I stopped dropping A/T pan, long ago. To little benefits for to much labor.

I drain pan for about 10 minutes, measuring ever drop that comes out.
Install drain plug with new washer (gasket) and torque to 13ft-lbf.
Then add back what came out, plus ~1/2 qt. through dipstick (98-03)
Then use engine to pump out of, A/T cooler return metal pipe niple to catch can. As I add through dipstick. Measuring even drop out and in.

I underfill until later, during topping procedure at 156 to 176f A/T #1 temp. Since easy to add more through dipstick (98-03).

In non dipstick (04-up). I overfill by ~1/2, than drain off excesses during topping procedure at 96f to 115f A/T #1 temp.

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

Differentials and transfer case gear lube. I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose...

forum.ih8mud.com

I use only Mobil 1 MV ATF in 98-02.
I'm now using Mobil full synthetic in 04-up (note this is not the same as Mobil 1)

So replace transmission filter never?

 

[BnvS]

So replace transmission filter never?

Only if you need to absolutely drop the tranmission pan for a reason. Imho.

 

[2001LC]

So replace transmission filter never?

It's a metal pick-up screen, not what we think of a filter. So I do not replacing screen. Which to do so, would be a waste of time and money, even if dropping pan.

 

[GerLC100]

Some background before commenting:
bought my van with 200k+ miles. pulled transmission, fully disassembled and overhauled it, upgraded parts. put it back in, pump and TQ shot as I forgot the spacer. my bad...
So round two after fully disassembling/ high pressure clean/ ... it. Mechanically all good, but the pump gasket wasn't correctly in place, blocking one path which I found on the first few miles.
Pulled a third time and everything worked.
--> just want to say I'm not afraid of transmissions. Yep, it's a very precise Tetris game once you get into the internals.

I don't fully get why not pull the cover and replace it once open.
I bought my LC with 270k miles, I would really like to know what the internals look like, if it has ever been cleaned, .... It's a few more (yeah, kind of risky if corroded) bolts, pull it off, seal it, put it back in. Leaking? ok, do it again. 10bucks for more gasket maker.

So is there really any disadvantage beside the money for a screen and possibly a broken bolt? Any other risk when swapping it?!

When I read "DON'T PULL THE COVER" I have the feeling it makes people more afraid than needed. Broken bolt I get... seal properly: check. But the rest is not self explanatory to me....

 

[2001LC]

Not sure what VAN, or why you broke it's A/T down.

There's nothing wrong with pulling the A/T pan (cover). In the 98-02, they're sealed with FIPG. In the 03-up, they uses a gasket. Gasket is easier to deal with, hand down. The screen (filter) never needs replacing. But if one removes screen to clean. It's gasket, then should be replaced.

The only benefits to pulling A/T pan. Is the magnets can be cleaned of particles.

Will we notice any difference in performance, if pan pulled. No!
Will it help to increase life of A/T. Not likely. Why? Because, particles on magnets tend to stay on the magnets for ever.

If DIY, go for it if.
If paying to have pan pulled. Save the money! Use cash savings, for full 12 qt flush, every 60K. Rather than a drain and fill.