200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks

[turbo8]

*Edit* these have been sold.

For someone converting over to a Tundra front end, I have a used set of King 3.0 shocks for the Tundra that I'll let go to a member for fairly cheap.

I think these will require LC specific reservoir brackets and an aftermarket Tundra upper control arm.

 

[NoClue]

I wonder if anyone with a tundra front end has had their trucks scored on an rti ramp. I'd be curious to see if there's any difference from the stock front end in terms of articulation

 

[MTKID]

I wonder if anyone with a tundra front end has had their trucks scored on an rti ramp. I'd be curious to see if there's any difference from the stock front end in terms of articulation

There’s certainly a little improvement. How much, I’m not sure.

 

[nmfoto]

I'm getting ready to jump on the Tundra swap bandwagon. I appreciate the help from @turbo8. I've spent days on here and this is the only thread I can find on the subject. I'm sure there's more, but the search button doesn't seem to want to find it. That said, this one thread is a wealth of information.
First off, I am heavily invested in my Icon 3.0 coil overs. I not only have one pair, but two. I knew going in that I would have to rebuild them frequently. I use my vehicle for work and cannot have any downtime with it. I'm going to use the Icon coil overs.
There is a lot on here about how to do it. A couple of questions.
1. Can I gain more caster. I'm hoping so. Would love a little heavier feel on the steering wheel. I know I don't want to go too much because of CV problems.
2. Does it add anything to the quality of the ride? (I know it does add to your turning radius a bit). Not worried about that because I'm going to be able to get rid of my front wheel spacers so it's a wash.
3. The Icon coil overs have the original coils on them. I have quite a bit of weight on the front and don't know if I need to up the spring weight a bit. If so, what spring do you think would be best and would work with the 3.0?
4. The Camburg Tundra upper control arms have been recommended. I want to make sure there's plenty of room for the 3.0 coil overs. Icon's Landcruiser upper control arm (Billet aluminum), does not allow enough room and rubs on the oil hose and the springs. Crappy design that they won't do anything about.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it.

 

[bemerritt]

I'm getting ready to jump on the Tundra swap bandwagon. I appreciate the help from @turbo8. I've spent days on here and this is the only thread I can find on the subject. I'm sure there's more, but the search button doesn't seem to want to find it. That said, this one thread is a wealth of information.
First off, I am heavily invested in my Icon 3.0 coil overs. I not only have one pair, but two. I knew going in that I would have to rebuild them frequently. I use my vehicle for work and cannot have any downtime with it. I'm going to use the Icon coil overs.
There is a lot on here about how to do it. A couple of questions.
1. Can I gain more caster. I'm hoping so. Would love a little heavier feel on the steering wheel. I know I don't want to go too much because of CV problems.
2. Does it add anything to the quality of the ride? (I know it does add to your turning radius a bit). Not worried about that because I'm going to be able to get rid of my front wheel spacers so it's a wash.
3. The Icon coil overs have the original coils on them. I have quite a bit of weight on the front and don't know if I need to up the spring weight a bit. If so, what spring do you think would be best and would work with the 3.0?
4. The Camburg Tundra upper control arms have been recommended. I want to make sure there's plenty of room for the 3.0 coil overs. Icon's Landcruiser upper control arm (Billet aluminum), does not allow enough room and rubs on the oil hose and the springs. Crappy design that they won't do anything about.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it.

I used the camburg UCA's. Personally i want to switch to something adjustable like the SPC's. If you haven't looked into them, I would. If you have and still want camburgs, hit me up if you want some with 6k miles on them because I would love to use the $$$ from selling them offset an SPC purchase!

 

[nmfoto]

I used the camburg UCA's. Personally i want to switch to something adjustable like the SPC's. If you haven't looked into them, I would. If you have and still want camburgs, hit me up if you want some with 6k miles on them because I would love to use the $$$ from selling them offset an SPC purchase!

Thanks I'll let you know.

 

[FJRanger]

Wasn't sure where to place these questions and since this is probably the most compreshensive Tundra swap thread they can go here.

Has anyone considered the use of a steering rack limiter to keep the tire/rim from rubbing on the KDSS arm? I'm open to sacrificing a bit of turn radius as a layer of protection if/when others drive the 200.

Does anyone know the outside diameter of the steering rack (just inside of the inner tierod) or have the rack opened up to measure it? It'd be nice if someone already had the measurement or has their suspension/rack apart to install the tundra/200 hybrid inner tierod ends.

Picture stolen from Cowzilla's thread and partsoup.

 

[VooDoo2]

I use a totally different method for the KDSS arm. The plates that lower and move the whole arm forward cause way more issues than they solve and cause binding. I keep the center hole where it is and remove 23mm from the front of the arm and add it to the rear, effectively moving the bends 23mm forward. Can fit a 35" tyre with ZERO scrub.

 

[empty80]

I use a totally different method for the KDSS arm. The plates that lower and move the whole arm forward cause way more issues than they solve and cause binding. I keep the center hole where it is and remove 23mm from the front of the arm and add it to the rear, effectively moving the bends 23mm forward. Can fit a 35" tyre with ZERO scrub.

Is this something you be interested in sending to the US in a batch order?

 

[bloc]

I use a totally different method for the KDSS arm. The plates that lower and move the whole arm forward cause way more issues than they solve and cause binding. I keep the center hole where it is and remove 23mm from the front of the arm and add it to the rear, effectively moving the bends 23mm forward. Can fit a 35" tyre with ZERO scrub.

Pictures? I’m having trouble understanding this.. which center hole? Which arm? (KDSS or LCA?)

 

[FJRanger]

I reached out to @VooDoo2 via pm and this is what he said:
"Yes we made a jig so the arm geometry remains in place then remove 23mm from one end and weld it into the other (cut and weld) to move the section that rubs forward."

I ran out of time trying to deteremine if the KDSS arms on a RHD and LHD vehicle are the same. Partsoup wasn't allowing me to look up other markets... looks like I need VPN.

If the PNs are the same, his jig could potentially work for LHD markets. From what little research I found the KDSS arms are $400-500 and aren't available new. This said, all my research was done before a work trip over a week ago and wasn't very in depth. I'd love for some one to prove me wrong and start modding them here in the states with a core exchange to limit down time.

 

[empty80]

I reached out to @VooDoo2 via pm and this is what he said:
"Yes we made a jig so the arm geometry remains in place then remove 23mm from one end and weld it into the other (cut and weld) to move the section that rubs forward."

I ran out of time trying to deteremine if the KDSS arms on a RHD and LHD vehicle are the same. Partsoup wasn't allowing me to look up other markets... looks like I need VPN.

If the PNs are the same, his jig could potentially work for LHD markets. From what little research I found the KDSS arms are $400-500 and aren't available new. This said, all my research was done before a work trip over a week ago and wasn't very in depth. I'd love for some one to prove me wrong and start modding them here in the states with a core exchange to limit down time.

It’s the same. The KDSS system stays on the same side of the truck for left and right hand drives.

Part Number 488A060010 for the KDSS arm at $425/ea on Part Souq.

 

[Hakosuka200]

Рычаг кдсс c измененной геометрией для Land Cruiser 200

В этом разделе Вы можете купить по доступной цене фаркоп, возможна доставка в регионы России. Преимущества: Мощное крепление к раме, минимальный свес, простота съема крюка(быстросъем)

offroad-group.com

russian site

 

[FJRanger]

It’s the same. The KDSS system stays on the same side of the truck for left and right hand drives.

Part Number 488A060010 for the KDSS arm at $425/ea on Part Souq.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Hakosuka200]

I'll have a modified KDSS arm thanks VOODOO2.
Where do I apply?.
Group Buy anyone?

 

[MTKID]

Рычаг кдсс c измененной геометрией для Land Cruiser 200

В этом разделе Вы можете купить по доступной цене фаркоп, возможна доставка в регионы России. Преимущества: Мощное крепление к раме, минимальный свес, простота съема крюка(быстросъем)

offroad-group.com

russian site

View attachment 3240040

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Following that same method looks like you could create an arm that would accommodate 37's too, although the angle of the KDSS piston would have to come forward a little too

 

[linuxgod]

I don’t understand how someone on mud hasn’t just cast a replacement bar for this, but for <$200 this would be worth trying.

For 37s you could always combine this with the KDSS relo to gain another inch

 

[bemerritt]

Seems like some 1/4" stock, some heat and some leverage could get you close......may have to try

 

[Hakosuka200]

Ordered a KDSS Arm from Megazip.
Get it cut and welded 23mm as mentioned by Voodoo2.
TBA.......

 

[TimCFJ40]

Seems like some 1/4" stock, some heat and some leverage could get you close......may have to try

You'll need to do much thicker than 1/4" to handle the forces on the system. Note that the factory bar is approximately 1.25" thick in most places.