Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (3 Viewers)

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Scott,

Just read your entire thread. You are really detailed in your work and document everything methodically while asking all the right questions. :cheers:

Keep up the fantastic work!

Stuart
:popcorn::beer:

PS Good question Sarge!
 
With that in mind , have you ever actually driven one of these things ? Sarge

Scott, I'n back in town with my 40. Gotta fix the turn signal switch and run it through emissions. Let me know when you have some free time and we can take it for a spin.

JimC took me out for a spin in it when I picked it up. I had to peel myself off the seat. He said "that's what your engine is supposed to do." It was awesome.
 
Scott, I'n back in town with my 40. Gotta fix the turn signal switch and run it through emissions. Let me know when you have some free time and we can take it for a spin. JimC took me out for a spin in it when I picked it up. I had to peel myself off the seat. He said "that's what your engine is supposed to do." It was awesome.

Aaron,
Sounds great. Let's connect Saturday or Monday!

If i do this, then I can tell Sarge I've ridden in one.
 
Scott, Just read your entire thread. You are really detailed in your work and document everything methodically while asking all the right questions. :cheers: Keep up the fantastic work! Stuart :popcorn::beer: PS Good question Sarge!

Thanks. I'm hoping this helps others at some point. I should have worked tonight but I plan to return to the tranny in the M.
 
Worked on the tranny this weekend. Discovered TPI's Tranny Rebuild Kit has wrong bearing in it, so now I will either find one cheap locally, or reuse the old one. They were nearly perfect anyway.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/758634-h42-transmission-rebuild-76-fj40.html

So this begs the questions:

1. Did TPI provide you with ANY correct parts for the rebuild

and

2. Are you getting your money back?

Also - Picked up my 60-series parts from Stumpalama this weekend. He even provided the Birfs packed, and clipped to the exle shafts, so I just have to load them in, when the time comes. The rebuild kit shipped from Kurt last week as well (I'm assuming yours did too?). Looking forward to degunking all this stuff and getting it bolted up!

Now, I just need to find some money to spend on the actual degunkers...and something strong enough to tackle the job! All this Christmas shopping is really cramping my style!
 
So this begs the questions:

1. Did TPI provide you with ANY correct parts for the rebuild

and

2. Are you getting your money back?

Also - Picked up my 60-series parts from Stumpalama this weekend. He even provided the Birfs packed, and clipped to the exle shafts, so I just have to load them in, when the time comes. The rebuild kit shipped from Kurt last week as well (I'm assuming yours did too?). Looking forward to degunking all this stuff and getting it bolted up!

Now, I just need to find some money to spend on the actual degunkers...and something strong enough to tackle the job! All this Christmas shopping is really cramping my style!

1. Yes, TPI provided all the right parts for the tranny so far, though I've not gone thru all the gaskets yet. The only issue was the wrong bearing (missing the snap ring so it was a KOYO 63/32 instead of what should have been a 63/32/NR).

2. No, I doubt it. Not wasting my time. I ordered it locally from BDI just now, $12 here tom or Wed. I can deal with that. Just hate the feeling that I get from Bob when I try to speak with him. It's always my fault, and he never follows up.

For example:
- U Joint was missing a needle bearing. He said I lost it. Never responded to my emails (multiple) about helping with a solution.
- Needed several out of stock parts. Told me he would order them for me. Never responded (2 separate orders).
- Said he would sell me the 3rd members out of the FJ55 in his driveway. I asked him several times, 2-3 months apart if he would go ahead and sell me those, and he never responded after saying to me on the phone and in person that he would do so.


When you talk about a degunker - are you getting a parts washer? I just have a big rubbermaid tub and some diesel fuel. Works well enough. Kerosene is better as it is heavier and evaporates more slowly (less volatile). Not perfect, and not easy, but it is CHEAP. Don't light a match in my shed, the fumes in there from the diesel evaporating out of my tub make it a bomb ready to go off.

I have some long rubber gloves from HD, and some brushes. Drop the greasy part in, scrub away. Use a scoop to pour the fluid over the parts.

I did get my parts last week, late. Opened them up and gave a cursory glance. Put them on a shelf for when I get this tranny wrapped up.

I also have that electrolysis tub setup and working on parts. It cleaned the tranny case very well. I have a thread on that somewhere - I plan to clean any of the rusty axle parts that way after degreasing if they are going to get painted.

Good luck!
 
When you talk about a degunker - are you getting a parts washer? I just have a big rubbermaid tub and some diesel fuel. Works well enough. Kerosene is better as it is heavier and evaporates more slowly (less volatile). Not perfect, and not easy, but it is CHEAP. Don't light a match in my shed, the fumes in there from the diesel evaporating out of my tub make it a bomb ready to go off.

I have some long rubber gloves from HD, and some brushes. Drop the greasy part in, scrub away. Use a scoop to pour the fluid over the parts.

I did get my parts last week, late. Opened them up and gave a cursory glance. Put them on a shelf for when I get this tranny wrapped up.

I also have that electrolysis tub setup and working on parts. It cleaned the tranny case very well. I have a thread on that somewhere - I plan to clean any of the rusty axle parts that way after degreasing if they are going to get painted.

Good luck!

I don't think I'm going to buy a parts washer. While it would be awesome, working in borrowed garages, etc. means I try to keep my tools to a minimum and not take up too much space. I will probably take the "large paint bucket/rubbermaid bin" approach.

I had heard fuel works well - but I'm hoping to go with something a little less explosive. I may scoop as much grease out as I can, then try something like Simple Green Degreaser to start. If that doesn't do the trick, I may break out the big, smelly, explosive, guns...

Rust is going to be dealt with using an angle grinder and wire brush attachment. Down the road, I'll most likely go with electrolysis - but right now, good old abrasives do the trick!
 
I don't think I'm going to buy a parts washer. While it would be awesome, working in borrowed garages, etc. means I try to keep my tools to a minimum and not take up too much space. I will probably take the "large paint bucket/rubbermaid bin" approach.

I had heard fuel works well - but I'm hoping to go with something a little less explosive. I may scoop as much grease out as I can, then try something like Simple Green Degreaser to start. If that doesn't do the trick, I may break out the big, smelly, explosive, guns...

Rust is going to be dealt with using an angle grinder and wire brush attachment. Down the road, I'll most likely go with electrolysis - but right now, good old abrasives do the trick!

Diesel and kerosene aren't very explosive. Actually hard to light (glow plugs). Smelly though. I have simple green - doesn't cut it.

Someone in this thread told me that wire wheeling simply folds metal over the rust at a microscopic level, so the rust is still eating away at the part, under the paint. Yuck. If you have a car battery you aren't using or a battery charger, some wire, and a large tub, you can do electrolysis.
 
Mineral spirits works very well as a degreaser. I use it in my parts washer. They even have odorless which is nice. I recycle it by distilling it and pouring it back in to the parts washer with some new. It works very well.

I've had good luck with the wire wheel and rust bullet. You can also treat parts after wire wheeling with zinc phosphate, available from Eastwood and others. Metal ready from POR-15 works well, though they don't seem to sell the powder any more. No rust break through after 10+ years.
 
Mineral spirits works very well as a degreaser. I use it in my parts washer. They even have odorless which is nice. I recycle it by distilling it and pouring it back in to the parts washer with some new. It works very well.

I've had good luck with the wire wheel and rust bullet. You can also treat parts after wire wheeling with zinc phosphate, available from Eastwood and others. Metal ready from POR-15 works well, though they don't seem to sell the powder any more. No rust break through after 10+ years.

Stump - exactly what I had in mind. Wire wheel off the loose stuff, the treat, prime, and paint.

VV - if I had a garage and a battery charger, I'd be more inclined to set up an electrolysis bath. It is definitely something id like to do in the future! As it stands, it is not in my meager budget...Christmas/life interfering with 40 budget!

How quickly do mineral spirits evaporate? Could I use that in an open system (aka large bucket) or is it better suited to something sealed off?
 
Sorry for the hijack, but this does relate to restoration.

It evaps slowly. A 5gal bucket with a lid would be fine for those knuckle parts. But, I would scrape the goop into a heavy duty trash bag and scrape/wire brush the caked up grease/dirt into the same bag, then hit them all with EZ off oven cleaner, let it soak in, then wire brush (get a couple small steel ones as well) until clean. It is by far the best and actually less messy than a bucket of mineral spirits. If you do mineral spirits, a basket or colander or grate to keep the parts out of the grease at the bottom is a good idea.
 
Mineral spirits works very well as a degreaser. I use it in my parts washer. They even have odorless which is nice. I recycle it by distilling it and pouring it back in to the parts washer with some new. It works very well. I've had good luck with the wire wheel and rust bullet. You can also treat parts after wire wheeling with zinc phosphate, available from Eastwood and others. Metal ready from POR-15 works well, though they don't seem to sell the powder any more. No rust break through after 10+ years.

Good info. Sounds like a good combination if you've kept the rust at bay.
 
It's stinkin' cold out there. You working on your truck? Looking forward to the 18th... I sure hope it's much warmer then.........
 
Working on the tranny a little. It's being difficult. PinHead, VtgBeemer and others are trying to get me straight.

Got the propane heater going when I'm out in the garage, so it helps.

I have the 18th on the calendar. Looking forward to helping the ol' gimp out.
 
You know... I'm willing to help out too. You've been nice enough to come out here. And besides, you don't live far down the street from the house I lived in through high school.
 
You know... I'm willing to help out too. You've been nice enough to come out here. And besides, you don't live far down the street from the house I lived in through high school.

I know at some point I'll need some hands to help align something.

Where'd you live?
 

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