76 FJ40 hood rib (1 Viewer)

[South Texas 97]

Cleaning up the hood, the center rib looks like it is glued on? As I see no evidence of spot welds. Would seam caulking material be appropriate, after cleaning and derusting?

 

[cruiserkev]

I used this Loctite product on my 76 hood a year ago and it's holding up well. Center rib on mine was pretty loose and would vibrate sometimes. This stuff fixed that issue and was only around $6 at Lowes.

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks for that, mine is totally loose. Will find some of this and get started cleaning up the rib and joint.

 

[Pierps]

I suspect the idea is that they wanted the hood to crumple in an accident rather than acting as a guillotine. That, or they didn't want welds to distort the hood since you'd see the spot welds on the top side.

The thought about safety didn't occur to me when I had to remove the rib during my resto to hammer out dents caused by a prior owner not latching the hood down while driving. So I welded it back on rather than using an adhesive- a decision I wish I could redo.

 

[SteveH]

Suggestion: pry open the gap between this bar and the hood sheet metal, squirt in some PL-series urethane construction adhesive (the nastier, the better) in the gap, and then close the hood half-way onto a 2x4 (end-wise) atop the engine. The weight of the hood resting on the 2x4 (which is sitting on this loose support) will help squeeze the support bar tightly against the hood sheet metal. If you own an FJ55 or 60, you'll see the same delamination problem.

However you do it, get gentle weight on the hood against the support bar to squeeze out the excess bonding agent.

 

[pb4ugo]

I suspect the idea is that they wanted the hood to crumple in an accident rather than acting as a guillotine. That, or they didn't want welds to distort the hood since you'd see the spot welds on the top side.

The thought about safety didn't occur to me when I had to remove the rib during my resto to hammer out dents caused by a prior owner not latching the hood down while driving. So I welded it back on rather than using an adhesive- a decision I wish I could redo.

I think its the latter, I doubt a crumple zone was even in the conversation. I'm sure they were concerned with the possibility of distortion with the welds or the relationship between the hood and the brace, or both. I think I used the ultimate glue, 3m 5200 or 4200 as the adhesive.

 

[cruiserkev]

Suggestion: pry open the gap between this bar and the hood sheet metal, squirt in some PL-series urethane construction adhesive (the nastier, the better) in the gap, and then close the hood half-way onto a 2x4 (end-wise) atop the engine. The weight of the hood resting on the 2x4 (which is sitting on this loose support) will help squeeze the support bar tightly against the hood sheet metal. If you own an FJ55 or 60, you'll see the same delamination problem.

However you do it, get gentle weight on the hood against the support bar to squeeze out the excess bonding agent.

Excellent advice! This is exactly what I did. Used several small wedges to open the gap then squirted as much PL adhesive in as possible. Then removed the wedges and shut the hood on a couple 2x4s. After day or two it completely cured, rib was locked in place again and my hood was much more stable. Dries a light beige color so it should blend in well with your paint @South Texas 97 , I had to get creative with a colored sharpie to make it less noticeable on my green inner
hood.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I suspect the idea is that they wanted the hood to crumple in an accident rather than acting as a guillotine. That, or they didn't want welds to distort the hood since you'd see the spot welds on the top side.

The thought about safety didn't occur to me when I had to remove the rib during my resto to hammer out dents caused by a prior owner not latching the hood down while driving. So I welded it back on rather than using an adhesive- a decision I wish I could redo.

The hood does crumple. I folded mine up on the rear duals on a F350 in '91.

 

[Clutchee]

Simply find a polyurethane and spread the rib and hood, apply small drops to allow shock to be absorbed.

The material there is acting as mastic only, for vibration.

 

[South Texas 97]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I have used the 3M black urethane window sealant in other projects for “gluing“ flexible things together , and had some left, so have done exactly what has been suggested above. Photos will follow to

 

[POPO AGIE]

The hood does crumple. I folded mine up on the rear duals on a F350 in '91.

Yes the hood crumpled and my FJ40 was totaled but so was the 1991 F350. Mine had mostly body damage of the front clip. The Ford had the rear spring pack and shock removed from the axle on the DS and was laying on its side. My FJ40 was still on all four wheels.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I am rebuilding it now but I am a long way from the body work.

 

[knuckle47]

@South Texas 97 , I too say thank you for your posting this. My ‘75 FJ40 has a mild lifting/loosening on the driver edge midway and I wondered what I can to to lock it back down. This seems perfect. Adding it to my list

Has there been any feedback regarding which product may provide the best performance?

 

[South Texas 97]

Seems like any urathane type sealant will work, something that will not dry hard and crack when flexing. 3M and permatex both make window sealant urathane, I used the 3M product available at the parts store, held the rib open with a flat blade screwdriver and slathered it in the gap on both sides. Then a block of wood on the valve cover and lower the hood to close the gap. It is rock solid, no noise or drumming. I would think the automotive seam sealer would be equally effective.

 

[South Texas 97]