Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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Awesome work VV. My dad is a pro welder and he scoffs at my poor attempt at welding. I remind him that a good grinder can make anyone's welds look like a pro! Hope you are staying warm up there in Nashvegas. Its cold as a witches teet down here in Chatt.

Turned to winter here yesterday. 65 day before, snow yesterday morning. Heaters gonna help. I'll bet it is colder in Chatt, esp up in the hills.

I'll never be a pro welder, but boy I respect those that are - that is hard, hard, hard to do well. Good welders can weld with anything. Us amateurs need good equipment to even have a chance.

I will say that there was a huge difference in the weld quality of the S22. I giggled as it laid down those beads. It was sooo much better than the $200 Lincoln HomeDepot special.

Thanks for the props, but it's not skill, believe me.
 
RE: MIG vs TIG, for anyone reading who wants a quick primer. TIG is so much harder and requires so much more skill than MIG, that I would argue unless you just want to learn TIG (which I did) that MIG is the 99% solution. You can MIG steel, stainless, and aluminum (though you need a machine that scan specifically do AL so look for that in a welder if you plan to).

My first TIG experience was on stainless. Mistake. Stainless is a b*tch to weld. TIG requires a lot of additional equipment and is so different from MIG that you'll likely get a TIG specific machine and a MIG specific machine if you do both.

TIG uses a Tungsten electrode to melt the metal (hooked to the negative side of the machine so the electrons flow towards the workpiece, thus not eating up the tungsten). You hold a thin wire in your off hand and dip it into the weld pool IF you need extra metal. The tungsten never (ha ha) touches the work piece, it just sprays electrons to the metal like a tiny paint gun (which is one reason it's so hard). If the pieces are very close fitting, in small welds, you may not even use a rod at all - you simply fuse the pieces together. You can make very small and/or very neat welds with TIG. Bicycle frames are TIG welded.

MIG is hooked to the positive electrode, so it melts the wire feeding from a spool thru the "gun" onto the work piece (electrons flowing from the work to the wire to melt it). The wire normally touches the work piece and then melts (there is "spray transfer" if the voltage is high enough - it creates a plasma-like field between the tip of the wire and the work piece so that it vaporizes the metal before it reaches the weld pool. Kinda neat. Saw that in action last night. Not normally what you want though.) MIG is just dead easy - wire feeds out, melts, and you are done.

Stick welding is what you see clamping the welding rod and melting it against the work piece. Used for larger welds, is more messy, and is used less these days for body work and such, IMHO.

I bought a used machine that does all 3. The machine is a Miller XMT 304. New it is about $4000 :eek: I started with TIG but quickly learned that TIG would be for hobby level stuff, and MIG would be necessary for getting things done. So then I spent another $400 and some time getting the MIG attachment for the 304.

That's the extent of my welding knowledge. Typing this about doubles my welding experience.

Hoping someone with more knowledge with me pipes in about TIG - when and where it is better.

RE: Nashville.
Maybe we can grab a coffee or lunch if you get a break. Will PM you. You'll love Nashville - it's a cool town now. Perhaps we can get RainMan, VgtBeemer, ADistler1 to go too.

Hey Man, I'll be down in your neck of the woods next week for work - first time in Nashville - PM me with some locales for food/booze! Not sure how much free time I'll have but I'm hoping I can get "out on the town" at least a couple of nights. I'm also going to need to buy a welder soon - or make friends with someone up here who has one. I'm still not clear on the advantages/disadvantages to MIG vs. TIG - I understand the difference between the two systems, I just don't understand when one would choose one over the other. Your welds looks pretty good! Far better than the blobs my PO laid down on seemingly every part of my truck (remember the power steering nightmare, prior to chopping it off). Heck, even my junkyard bench seat is welded to the factory seat mounts.
 
Remind me: Is this carb adapter / manifold insulator for the stock carb and manifold? I was under the impression it is.

I had a Weber 38 on my 40 when I got it.

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Not to be a hard critic , but those welds are too cold . Try dropping down the wire speed a bit and maybe increase the base voltage a little . It also looks to be a bad angle on the gun as well . Not sure why you would buy another welder if you already have an XMT ? The XMT only requires a spool drive and mig gun to operate in the mig option ...
Not to mention , if you have the tig torch and the XMT I'd be using that instead in a heartbeat . If you want to really burn those parts together , use the XMT and 7018 3/32" rod in DC version -best overall strength and no gas needed . I've almost bought a used XMT twice now since they are a CC/CV capable machine and have a lot more output power compared to my Miller Dynasty 200DX . Not to mention they are capable of easily running a 30a aluminum spool gun at high amperage which is nice for a lot of thicker extruded aluminum stock on trailers, ect . Tig is sweet but does require a lot of practice and learning all the proper settings to do ac aluminum work correctly .

Take some time and get that mig burning correctly . Try increasing /decreasing the gun angle as well and make certain you are getting a decent gas shielding flow . If you only have a diaphram-style regulator you may want to upgrade to a flow meter style w/ball to better track output of gas in cfm - sure saves in the long run . Most units work best around 20-25cfm if your inside - outdoors it can take 35cfm + to keep shielding in place in the wind . 75/25 or tri-mix will work the best unless you have one of Miller's new units capable of running pure CO2 .

If nothing else , get some 2"x.250" flat stock and start running short stacking beads for practice/settings , it helps a lot . Also , check out Jody Collier's www.weldingtipsandtricks.com site for some of the best welding help/tutorial videos anywhere on the net ...this guy is really good at explaining and shooting videos .
Sarge
 
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Sarge - No, thanks for the coaching. I don't have much experience, and want this type of feedback. I'll tweak the settings and run some additional beads to keep practicing. I am familiar with weldingtipsandtricks.com.

What should the beads look like if they are not too cold? When welding the 10ga square tube on the corner, I was blowing thru the corner and turned down the volts to between 18-22 (or is that amps?).

So you'd do TIG on the small body stuff? It is so difficult to control (for me - king rookie). Suggested settings, nozzle, tungsten size, etc for 16ga steel?

I didn't buy another welder, the S22-A is the MIG add on for the XMT. I guess I could have bought a self contained gun.

Also, out of the box, the XMT does NOT do AL. It is DC only, unless, as you said, you get an AC spool gun.
 
Just to clarify - the 30a spool gun is DC , and they work quite well with straight argon gas on aluminum .
As to TIG on sheetmetal , not so much unless you have a pretty fair amount of experience . For fabwork , yeah the tig rocks and is pretty hard to beat . If you want to try the tig on sheetmetal you'd need to run a 1/16" electrode and around 40-50 amps with a pedal / use only what heat you must and no more . TIG can be a plus in the heat dept on thin metals but remember that it's much more concentrated than a mig and is much more sensitive overall - read easy warpage without a lot of practice .

I didn't realize the S22-A was the new wire feed unit , not used to the newer part numbering system . Nice unit , btw and should work quite well . Your beads should be deeper and not so much crowning - your piling the wire up and either not moving fast enough for the settings or just have the wire feed speed up too high . It also depends on what gas mix as to settings and every feeder type is different - just have to experiment . If it helps , it should sound very smooth and even when welding . You can run a solid straight line if you run hot on amps and get the wire speed set just right - otherwise a slight vee or cee motion usually is what most folks run . I could run some beads in 7018 on the same gauge but pics aren't much help - it's just a matter of hands-on . Wish we were closer - I'd spend a few days helping you figure it out - love teaching others (although one nephew is starting to become a pia , lol ) .
If you ever get up in the northern half of Illinois , let me know ahead of time....
Sarge
 
Just to clarify - the 30a spool gun is DC , and they work quite well with straight argon gas on aluminum . As to TIG on sheetmetal , not so much unless you have a pretty fair amount of experience . For fabwork , yeah the tig rocks and is pretty hard to beat . If you want to try the tig on sheetmetal you'd need to run a 1/16" electrode and around 40-50 amps with a pedal / use only what heat you must and no more . TIG can be a plus in the heat dept on thin metals but remember that it's much more concentrated than a mig and is much more sensitive overall - read easy warpage without a lot of practice .

I didn't realize the S22-A was the new wire feed unit , not used to the newer part numbering system . Nice unit , btw and should work quite well .

Your beads should be deeper and not so much crowning - your piling the wire up and either not moving fast enough for the settings or just have the wire feed speed up too high . It also depends on what gas mix as to settings and every feeder type is different - just have to experiment . If it helps , it should sound very smooth and even when welding . You can run a solid straight line if you run hot on amps and get the wire speed set just right - otherwise a slight vee or cee motion usually is what most folks run . I could run some beads in 7018 on the same gauge but pics aren't much help - it's just a matter of hands-on . Wish we were closer - I'd spend a few days helping you figure it out - love teaching others (although one nephew is starting to become a pia , lol ) . If you ever get up in the northern half of Illinois , let me know ahead of time.... Sarge

Is it TIG that needs AC for AL? I know I read that something does.

Yes, I am experimenting with wire speed, voltage, travel speed, angle. Ran some vertical tonight. Went up first. That was a mess. Then ran down - much nicer. Even stacked the dime a bit.

With the welds you saw, I was cee-ing but they were so hot, they didn't settle. Perhaps I was Eee-ing which was making it too not, and not angling the gun properly.

Gas is 75/25, 35 CFM. 0.35 wire. Tried some of that on some 16ga tonight. Trying to see if I could spot weld it without warping it. I could, but it left what I imagine was a lot of metal that will have to be ground off vs 0.23 (assuming I should use 0.23 on the sheet metal).

After my TIG experience on thin stainless, and the difficulty of starting the arc on the XMT unit, I'll stick with MIG for now.

I would love someone showing me welding.... Thanks for the verbal coaching though.
 
If the welds are settling down and staying crowned your travel speed is too slow . There's a fine line between too much heat , travel speed and wire feeding with mig .

AC tig is correct for aluminum . The switching of the ac between electrode hot/negative breaks up the oxide layer on the aluminum for a cleaning effect - the ac balance and ac frequency affect how much cleaning action you get on the oxide layer . The whole issue with aluminum and that oxide is that the oxide melts at a much higher temperature than the base metal - this cleaning action allows a nice fluid weld puddle without contamination .

DC mig aluminum just uses a lot of power to melt through the oxide layer and can be pretty tricky to get speed / amp settings just right . Blow a hole on ac tig is not a big deal , blow a hole on dc mig results in a really big hole .

Starting the tig arc in lift-start or scratch-start modes can be tough , just takes some practice . Not sure , but read up on the XMT's settings and see if has a 2T or 4T mode - this allows for a simple remote switch to start /end the machine's output . Our video guru Jody just made some videos recently detailing the uses/benefits of using 2T modes - great info . Otherwise , the easiest way is a high-frequency starter with foot pedal to control the amperage .

Sarge
 
Sarge, I'll have to scour the web and post photos of other welds I do. Just not sure what looks right and what doesn't. The welds I was doing Friday on some 10 ga were definitely making the right sound, and were penetrating well. I tried going fast in a straight thin line, and going slow with the cees, etc. I'm sure one of those welds was right, just not sure which.

I don't think the XMT has 2T or 4T. I do have a nice new pedal - SCC Controls makes it. The XMT is just not great about lift arc and scratch starts and of course I suck with the pedal. It has those modes, but I would always ding the tungsten when doing it.

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Pedal

Practice makes perfect.
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Worked on the Tranny tonight.

Got to this point:
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Ready for gears and shafts next.

Oh and I'm such my fathers son:

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Saved paper towels

Collecting the paper towels my 4 family members waste all day long. I'll never need a new one again for this project.
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Scratch start isn't easy even for someone experienced , practice helps . Same with the mig - just have to practice a lot , watch videos and don't be afraid to experiment with settings - you won't hurt that welder . I have been trying to find an inexpensive used XMT for myself since it has the extra power and cc/cv selection to use with several add-ons like wire feeders , suitcase , ect ....
Sarge
 
Scratch start isn't easy even for someone experienced , practice helps . Same with the mig - just have to practice a lot , watch videos and don't be afraid to experiment with settings - you won't hurt that welder . I have been trying to find an inexpensive used XMT for myself since it has the extra power and cc/cv selection to use with several add-ons like wire feeders , suitcase , ect .... Sarge

I got this one for $1600. It's pretty old and the PO replaced one of the main computer boards in it for about $800, painted the case (not sure why) so probably bought it inoperable. Young guy, owned a welding business. Thing seems to be bulletproof.

With a pedal, are you supposed to be able to start the arc without touching the work? (In general, I'm not asking about the XMT)
 
It's been a "cruiser-social" week. Got to meet Rick Berenger (RWBerenger4x4) in Nashville and talk cruisers over burritos and Queso on Monday. He was traveling for biz and had a bit of free time. I'm sorry that Rainman was laid up with a bad back, ADistler1 was out of town, and VtgBeemer was too old to join us. It was Rick's loss to not meet you guys.

Tonight, a few minutes ago in Atlanta, I got to see Chris Stark (TCSTARK), meet his lovely family, and trade some parts. I took away much more than I paid for. Thank you Chris for your generosity.

Now have new fenders, tranny hump, gas tank cover, brake and clutch pedal assembly (free), Warn hub rebuild kit (free), aprons, alternator bracket, rear heater (though I don't see the heater lines now that I think of it - oh well, plenty of other free goodies), visors, eBrake handle, gas pedal, OEM header (on loan). He even tried to give me a spare steering column in case I effed up mine in the PS conversion.

Lovely community of people.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It was great meeting you! It's always cool to hear about how everyone got into the hobby, and meet some of the folks behind the trucks I see every day on MUD.

Hopefully I'll be back in the Nashville area again eventually, to meet all the other folks!
 
Most welders in tig mode using a foot pedal will start the process by kicking in the high frequency starter , initiate the arc and the pedal's variable rheostat controls the amperage . It all depends on the model/brand of the welder - some can still use scratch-start to protect the surrounding enviroment from high-frequency interference (read- pacemakers/electronics) and still control the amperage range through the foot pedal . One note about learning tig - it takes a much deeper understanding of metal and it's properties to use a tig correctly , not to mention the expensive learning curve just in consumables .
Sarge
 
Most welders in tig mode using a foot pedal will start the process by kicking in the high frequency starter , initiate the arc and the pedal's variable rheostat controls the amperage . It all depends on the model/brand of the welder - some can still use scratch-start to protect the surrounding enviroment from high-frequency interference (read- pacemakers/electronics) and still control the amperage range through the foot pedal . One note about learning tig - it takes a much deeper understanding of metal and it's properties to use a tig correctly , not to mention the expensive learning curve just in consumables .
Sarge

No High Freq start on the 304. It has a lift start but still tough.

Here's my light reading today. Picked this up a while back.

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Working on the tranny again. Got here and stopped by a stupid snap ring. Had to get online and find a tool. Got a high quality Knipex 4510170 plier. The little pointed ones just don't cut it.

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Got the main shaft done.

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But can't get this on without a real snap ring plier.

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These don't work
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