1FZFE Head Bolt / Stud question (2 Viewers)

[obe12]

I didn’t think, just now… if you want to leave me a deposit , you can just use mine.. if it will work?
When you’re done bring it back.

I live in Haslet, north ft worth and work a lot in North DFW area off 635 some days….

If you don’t do this kind of work, no real need to buy a tool just for that.

If mine doesn’t work, if you get one, I buy it from your for what you paid for it. I have lots of tools and will need it myself for my 80.

Either way I am sure something can be worked out.

Tex

 

[alabamatoy]

Suggestion....from just having done the HG replacement: keep 2 of the original studs, and carefully cut the heads off, then grind the cut smooth and rounded off. When you get ready to put the head back on, put one of each of these studs (now headless) in the deck at opposite corners, just a turn or two threaded in. This makes setting the head on the deck and gasket alignment dowels MUUUUUCH easier. The head is heavy and, for me as old guy with weak back, holding it in the correct position and setting it on the new gasket without scraping things that you dont want to scrape is very difficult. Having 2 alignment pins makes it much easier. When the head is in position, you can easily unscrew the 2 headless bolts and proceed.

 

[Wompom]

It seems the consensus is either

1. Opel kit - trim front 2 1/4"
2. Supra Kit - trim?

Likely going to a cometic gasket and ARP studs with my refresh turbo'd motor. I fried some valves it appears and the motor is back out...

 

[NKP Garage]

ARP Head studs - "torque to yield"
Toyota head bolts - "stretch to yield"

ARP head studs sometimes require retorque after a few hundred miles. Depends on the type of gasket used, whether stud lube is used during torquing, and some other variables.

If you are not turbo'ing your 1FZ, just stick to OEM head bolts.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

ARP Head studs - "torque to yield"
Toyota head bolts - "stretch to yield"

ARP head studs sometimes require retorque after a few hundred miles. Depends on the type of gasket used, whether stud lube is used during torquing, and some other variables.

If you are not turbo'ing your 1FZ, just stick to OEM head bolts.

Did my head gasket 6 years ago with arp still going strong

 

[NKP Garage]

Did my head gasket 6 years ago with arp still going strong

They're awesome when installed properly. Have seen many installed incorrectly leading to HG failure.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

They're awesome when installed properly. Have seen many installed incorrectly leading to HG failure.

Supra studs and followed arp instructions to the T also oem head gasket water pump tstat radiator new hoses toyota red coolant all oem parts besides the studs. Been around race cars mud trucks monster trucks always use arp for the engines mostly 1500hp engines.

 

[audi2nr]

I used the supra studs but felt they were slightly too short when you bottom out the stud. I installed my studs with locktite but backed out enough so the stud protrudes fully through the washer and nut. I also am on a a cometic mls hg. Every thing is working perfect as of now. I'd go mls but you really should get the head and block surfaces prepped for it, however I've rebuilt many many audi 2.0 turbo engines under warranty when I was working at the dealership without doing this prep work as they wouldn't pay for it.. so take that for what you want.. if it's my engine and I have a say im getting it machined especially if it's under substantial boost.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Suggestion....from just having done the HG replacement: keep 2 of the original studs, and carefully cut the heads off, then grind the cut smooth and rounded off. When you get ready to put the head back on, put one of each of these studs (now headless) in the deck at opposite corners, just a turn or two threaded in. This makes setting the head on the deck and gasket alignment dowels MUUUUUCH easier. The head is heavy and, for me as old guy with weak back, holding it in the correct position and setting it on the new gasket without scraping things that you dont want to scrape is very difficult. Having 2 alignment pins makes it much easier. When the head is in position, you can easily unscrew the 2 headless bolts and proceed.

Great suggestion.

Another suggestion for an old head bolt, grind a couple of groooves parallel to the shank ( or with a slight helical twist) with 5" grinder so you have a sharp shoulder. This works as a thread cleaning tap.