1FZFE Head Bolt / Stud question (1 Viewer)

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Flank

Flank

American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
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My 95 has a blown head gasket after flogging it to death pulling a box trailer for a month for work while searching for a new V8 Sequoia to replace the one my daughter totaled. I'm getting ready to replace the HG in the truck, and have a good spare engine (also with a minor HG leak) to mix/ match any components I'll need. The engine in the truck was a Robbie top-end rebuilt engine previously acquired as a drop-in replacement. I kept my original engine that had a mere 192K miles on it. My dilemma was whether or not to do the top end of the 192K engine out of the truck and do the swap, or to take the easier route of the HG in the truck on the ~150K engine. In-the-truck won out.
I know that there is a lot of back and forth on the check / reuse old head bolts... I've not looked too much into what the re-use spec is, but my plan is to replace them with ARP studs, kit 209-4702 . Hence my questions:
1) The OEM head bolts are bolts (containing the head of the bolt) Correct? The ARP studs require a top nut to use, and they come with the kit, correct?
2) The ARP kit appears to come wiht 16 studs, and if I looked correctly, the head takes 14, correct?
3) Has anyone run into any issues using the ARP kit? Any advantage to using OEM over ARP or otherwise?

Thanks. I've never broken into the engine, past the intake before and EGR systems, before. I'm nervous, but looking forward to it.
 
OEM are perfectly adequate. No need for ARP on a stock engine.
Why complicate things for a simple head gasket swap.
If you were adding boost and increasing power output, ARP might be a better option.

If you stick with OEM, all your torque settings etc are per the FSM. ARP torque settings will be different, and socket size may be too

I re-used head bolts when I swapped a head gasket. I measured them all and found a few that were just out of spec. I ordered replacements, and a couple of spares.
I had a couple more yield while torquing and had to wait for more replacements.
Unless you're on a really tight budget, replace them all.

Find OTRAM head gasket videos on youtube. Really good, easy to follow, step by step guide if you haven't swapped the head on a 1fz-fe yet. I had the video loaded on laptop in the garage the first time I did this head gasket.
Literally stop start the video while you work if you need it.
 
One of the reasons for the ARP's is budget . The OEM bolts and washers cost roughly $340, whilst the ARP kit is roughly $100 less. Not huge , but not chump change either, for what is considered a superior component.
 
mudgudgeon said:
OEM are perfectly adequate. No need for ARP on a stock engine.
Why complicate things for a simple head gasket swap.
Click to expand...

My truck went into the shop for head gasket replacement a few weeks ago and ARP studs were half the cost of OEM bolts.

So why the hell not.
 
Godwin said:
A set of new head bolts from Partsouq is $160 plus shipping.
Click to expand...
Sounds about right.
It's been 2+ years since I did mine. I seem to remember ~ $11 bucks each. I think I got mine from Megazip. All mine were measured at the edge of out of spec. Bought 'em all. Thankfully, main bearing bolts were nicely IN spec.

Happy new year
 
Funny thing,

I just ordered the oem gasket set and ARP bolts last night for my newly purchased 245k 80 series. I am awaiting its arrival from Washington state via shipper. But I decided just do it.

Check the decks, check the guides, lap the valves, replace the seals, adjust the valves and put it back together. If I find guide issue, or bad seat valve contacts, or deck not straight then we go down the other road. Full machine shop work..

Previous 8 year about owner meticulous well kept, clean “not washed engine bay” reports maybe 1/2 -3/4 qt of oil replacement in 5000 miles.

He is creditable and rig well kept. I have zero reason to doubt him.

But I feel comfy not re ringing the block. Truck has zero indication of a head gasket issue now. But when is the question, he hasn’t had it done in the last 8 years. So preventative I am.

The gasket kit 10 days was 188 shipped. Vrs 288 plus tax Through Toyotapartsdeal.com
If you need it now, then that’s another story.

Amazon bolts 157 for ARP kit plus tax.

The huge difference is stretch bolts versus non stretch bolts. How ARP studs maintain torque evenly. Why if turbo , supercharged they are recommended. Oem gasket I understand is the best to buy. No 1st hand esperianxe of that myself on this 4.5 engine.

Good luck on your adventure….

Yeah I get not everyone has the valve tools and straight edge … but at a min I would change the valve seals, and adjust the valves. There is a 100 buck tool to do just what I am talking about. Makes quick work of it. Dang I can’t remember its name … I have it in my tool box and I get to my shop I will look. But make valve spring removal and install a breeze.

I use this tool changing my 4.7 v8 valve seals heads on the engine. When I removed the engine to repair oil leaks in my 379000 100 series.

Happy new year, sorry about the gasket issue.

What ever you choose, reuse , new or arp clean the threads on the block, blow out or vacuum the holes.
Lube the threads on nuts or bolts on installation to get good even torque.

His the receipt for the gasket kit

IMG_6221.png
 
obe12 said:
Funny thing,

I just ordered the oem gasket set and ARP bolts last night for my newly purchased 245k 80 series. I am awaiting its arrival from Washington state via shipper. But I decided just do it.

Check the decks, check the guides, lap the valves, replace the seals, adjust the valves and put it back together. If I find guide issue, or bad seat valve contacts, or deck not straight then we go down the other road. Full machine shop work..

Previous 8 year about owner meticulous well kept, clean “not washed engine bay” reports maybe 1/2 -3/4 qt of oil replacement in 5000 miles.

He is creditable and rig well kept. I have zero reason to doubt him.

But I feel comfy not re ringing the block. Truck has zero indication of a head gasket issue now. But when is the question, he hasn’t had it done in the last 8 years. So preventative I am.

The gasket kit 10 days was 188 shipped. Vrs 288 plus tax Through Toyotapartsdeal.com
If you need it now, then that’s another story.

Amazon bolts 157 for ARP kit plus tax.

The huge difference is stretch bolts versus non stretch bolts. How ARP studs maintain torque evenly. Why if turbo , supercharged they are recommended. Oem gasket I understand is the best to buy. No 1st hand esperianxe of that myself on this 4.5 engine.

Good luck on your adventure….

Yeah I get not everyone has the valve tools and straight edge … but at a min I would change the valve seals, and adjust the valves. There is a 100 buck tool to do just what I am talking about. Makes quick work of it. Dang I can’t remember its name … I have it in my tool box and I get to my shop I will look. But make valve spring removal and install a breeze.

I use this tool changing my 4.7 v8 valve seals heads on the engine. When I removed the engine to repair oil leaks in my 379000 100 series.

Happy new year, sorry about the gasket issue.

What ever you choose, reuse , new or arp clean the threads on the block, blow out or vacuum the holes.
Lube the threads on nuts or bolts on installation to get good even torque.

His the receipt for the gasket kit

View attachment 3521472
Click to expand...
Link to the arp studs for $157. I can not find them for tat cheep on Amazon??
 
To answers the OP questions. Stock bolts are just fine and can be bought for a little cheeper as others have mentioned than the arp studs. The arp studs come with all the hardware needed I have used the opel kit 209-4702 on the last 9 engine builds with zero issues. You do need to trim the front studs by a 1/4 inch to clear the cam gears. You will want to reuse your stock washers as the arp washers are slightly smaller and don’t fit the head holes as well.
 
This is all awesome info. I'm going with the Toyota OEM Valve grind kit that includes the HG and all the top end seals, and I have a grocery list of other seals and While I'm In There items, like the 100 series block drain plug, power steering hoses and seals, fuel filter, etc. I'm pulling the torx screws from my last engine for the oil pump housing.
Finding OEM bolts for less on Partsouq has me deciding to order them there in lieu of the ARP.
I am very interested learning more about the tool for the valve springs. I'll be watching the OTRAM head gasket videos (already started a step by step from them.)
 
Click on a product, watch the video to see how it works.

Removal and installation valve spring.
 
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