1FZ Pre-Build Questions (1 Viewer)

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No, they're fine on a (strong) stand ,( Dynamic loads of a cranking engine are different/greater from static load of a sitting engine,)

Also
Verify and set valve clearance before either test though so you know a tight valve clearance isn't borking your tests.

Have the throttle body off or held open for the tests Too.
This would be for an old engine I hope to transplant (temp) without any valve train or other non-PM work. Ideally I don’t even take the head off…
 
FASTENERS?

Aside from head bolts, are there any other fasteners that should be replaced when rebuilding an engine and rehabbing the bay?

Rod bolts.
Main bearing cap bolts in the block.

Order some spare sump/oil pan bolts, rocker cover bolts, easily fubared by heavy handed PO or mechanic

The bolts that hold plug lead cradles, and covers on top of the rocker cover were in poor shape on my cruiser. They get taken in/out every time a vehicle is serviced

All these bolts are a few cents each
 
This would be for an old engine I hope to transplant (temp) without any valve train or other non-PM work. Ideally I don’t even take the head off…

You'll need a stand that lets you bolt on a bell housing so you can bolt on the starter.


I was thinking about how to compression test an engine not in the vehicle recently before I bought a used engine.
Was contemplating whether turning it over by hand with all but one plug out would be doable.

I think you'd need the engine held securely so it doesn't fall over sideways.
You'd need a sturdy Z shaped bar with a smooth or rotating handle.
You'd need to give the engine 8-12 full rotations to test each pot. That's 4-6 compression strokes.

I doubt you'd turn an engine over fast enough to get a true compression reading turning it by hand.
And there'd be a risk of the compression kicking back while cranking.
And this want to have your wheeties for brekkie and be pumped for a workout
 
What is the advisability of using the @OTRAMM / @CPACruiser crank pulley tool while the engine is on a stand? What about using a ~650# 1/2-inch impact wrench? The crank bolt in question has never been removed.

Bought the tool when I thought I would do it in-vehicle; now have a second engine and an impact wrench, and it's looking like I'll do the bolt on the second engine first...
 
What is the advisability of using the @OTRAMM / @CPACruiser crank pulley tool while the engine is on a stand? What about using a ~650# 1/2-inch impact wrench? The crank bolt in question has never been removed.

Bought the tool when I thought I would do it in-vehicle; now have a second engine and an impact wrench, and it's looking like I'll do the bolt on the second engine first...
Impact worked on mine, but I had a full 80 gallon tank @ 120 PSI. And, some luck
 
Maybe should have mentioned, mine’s battery powered.

I used a cordless impact but did it before pulling the engine. Don’t see why it wouldnt work on the engine stand.

When I reinstalled it i used a home made pulley tool and 3/4” torque wrench to get it to 304.
 
Obviously bashed somewhere in transit. What are the chances this is okay with the usual rotor-cap-oring-dust ring replacement, and how do I (can I even) test it when out of the vehicle?

E7D7EC6E-EE48-4249-80A9-F60A671AF964.jpeg
 
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Obviously bashed somewhere in transit. What are the chances this is okay with the usual rotor-cap-oring-dust ring replacement, and how do I/can I test it when out of the vehicle?

View attachment 3250925
I'd take the cap off. Pull the disto. Rotate to see if the shaft is bent, and/or is loose. But, likely it's just crunched plastic. You'd want to replace the rotor, cap and wires anyway.
 
This is a 'new' spare engine you are putting in to replace one, right?
Use the dizzy from the original if in doubt. Swap out during swap out.
Part of the refresh for the 'new' engine should be pulling the distributor to replace the o-ring anyway.

But without any damage to the rotor I'd seriously doubt anything important took a hit.
 
I get two results when looking for the PS pump P/N, both apparently still available...

Pump Assy, Vane

44320-60181 8/92-6/95
44320-60182 6/95-1/98

As luck would have it, my build date is...6/95.

What's the diff?
Does it matter?
Is the later one better and if I switch to that, what else to I have to switch?

@OGBeno?
 
Well, that was simple, thanks!
Someone should tell toyotapartsdeal, though.
 
Well, that was simple, thanks!
Someone should tell toyotapartsdeal, though.
Most of us try to stay away for Toyotapartsdeal ;)
 
Most of us try to stay away for Toyotapartsdeal ;)
I don't buy there, but I like that I can just punch in "power steering pump" or whatever, without knowing the part number. Once I have the P/N, I'm off to Partsouq...
 
I don't buy there, but I like that I can just punch in "power steering pump" or whatever, without knowing the part number. Once I have the P/N, I'm off to Partsouq...
That’s inefficient. Just put your VIN into partsouq and proceed to buying.
 
That’s inefficient. Just put your VIN into partsouq and proceed to buying.
Well it does emphasize how much cheaper Partsouq is. :) Except on the fuel filter; dunno why. Anyway--you're saying that if I put in my VIN I can then use general search terms like 'power steering pump,' and come up with P/Ns? That would be efficient.
 
Well it does emphasize how much cheaper Partsouq is. :) Except on the fuel filter; dunno why. Anyway--you're saying that if I put in my VIN I can then use general search terms like 'power steering pump,' and come up with P/Ns? That would be efficient.
There are some parts that are much more expensive on partsouq. I don’t understand it.

To a degree you can search parts like that, but I usually don’t search my parts like that. Anyway, I don’t find the search interface difficult or inefficient on partsouq.
 
1) So, the fuse box, relay box, whatever you want to call it on the FZJ DS fenderwell under the hood--what the heck does Toyota call that, because I can't find the P/N using those search terms...

2) I recall reading somewhere that three gears should always be replaced together: crank gear (does that mean timing gear?), oil pump gear (15163-66021) and power steering pump vane gear (44316-60020). That sound right?

Thanks for any help!
 
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1) So, the fuse box, relay box, whatever you want to call it on the FZJ DS fenderwell under the hood--what the heck does Toyota call that, because I can't find the P/N using those search terms...

2) I recall reading somewhere that three gears should always be replaced together: crank gear (does that mean timing gear?), oil pump gear (15163-66021) and power steering pump vane gear (44316-60020). That sound right?

Thanks for any help!
1: relay cover 82662-60050
2: never read this anywhere.
 

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