1FZ Pre-Build Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jaymar
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Can you physically check it out?
The generic Chyna one I bought has way too much slop in the folding legs.
It's because the pins and hole placement is loose for easy assembly, but that looseness makes things a bit of a pain while using it
And castors are s***, even after greasing them
Otherwise, it's all good.
I agree on the over buy idea. Get one with a heavier rating, and longer legs.
The Toyota engine is heavy, and being an Inline 6, the weight is offset further than if you were lifting a big V8 because the block is quite a bit longer. It pushes the COG right to the end of the legs if you're lifting with the arm at max length.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I use the HF 2 ton and like @mudgudgeon said it’s not a quality unit I have same problems with legs but it gets the job Done. You need it completely extended to the 1/2 ton raring to get your motor all the way in without hitting your front core support. For the money it’s hard to beat. I would look on offer up, Craigslist and marketplace for a used one lots of people selling them around my area. The nice thing about it is the folding legs it really takes up less space folded up. Also I bought the 2 ton stand and it’s a pain because the legs hit the hoist legs and make it hard to marry up. I bought another 1 ton stand from them for $100 that works good. Again though I would look for used ones they are usually 40-60 bucks around here.
- Thread starter
- #84
If I wind up with HF, I'm not gonna be able to check that until it's home and out of the box. I'd buy something triple the price if I could but...priorities; it won't see a lot of use. (And for all I know the name brands are the same damned thing these days.) There are some rehab candidates on craigslist, but most don't fold, and who knows what kind of weight they've had on them. Old wrench, fine. Old something-I'm-gonna-hang-500-1,000 lbs on, not so much (unless its ridiculously overbuilt). Thanks for the CG tip; guess that's why I saw a cement bag on the crane base in one of these threads...
Man, we all got priorities that get in the way of cruiser toys/tools etc.
With mine, I got around the sloppiness of the legs by putting some 6mm plastic construction shims between the base and folding leg. It helped a lot.
I can deal with the sloppiness in exchange for having it fold up.
You definitely need to use care when you've got the engine swinging on the end of the jib
- Thread starter
- #86
How hard? Any tips? One-ton doesn't fold, has smaller safety margin; will go with two-ton if that'll work. Don't plan to be doing this often...
That's exactly what worked for me. I tried the smaller one from HF and it wouldn't go far enough into the engine bay. You'll also need a load leveler. get the best one you can afford. Mine is from HF and was barely up to the task. I basically had to shoot grease on the threads multiple times and suffer with a handle that was too wimpy.
Too bad you're not in my neck of the woods, I'd let you use mine.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I bought a OTC 2 Ton load leveler and if it has worked great.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Sorry 1 Ton stand. Then I put purchased the 1/2
Ton Stand and it worked fine it flexes a little just don’t go crazy and it’s plenty stable.
- Thread starter
- #90
I've still got a Trans-Dapt leveler from my Ford 460 days; should do the trick.
As much as I hate buying made in China... The 2 ton didn't have sloppy legs at all. But you will need to extend the boom, in fact I went and hung the chain out past the pin to get an extra inch of reach. Now I use it to move heavy stuff into the bed of my Taco, on occasion.
Don't tell my wife... But, I enjoyed the rebuild so much I'd kinda like to do another one
- Thread starter
- #92
The two-ton stand has two long legs. I never thought about interference with the crane legs...
I found the same thing with my gear too.
It made things a bit awkward, but not impossible.
I had to brace my engine stand, and will brace the rotating top portion before using it again.
The I6 is too long, to much leverage.
I don't have any advice on the lifts I have a forklift, but I will say bigger and stronger is better, it's a tall and.long reach to get that engine in and.out.
I do have the 2 ton HF folding engine stand and I wouldn't use a 1 ton as I have seen others do as the ones I've seen flex too much and have bent with the 1hdfts I build, similar weight to the 1fz.
I use a much longer handle to rotate it, or just grab the engine, as the handle is useless. And I greased the rotating interface. Still a bear to rotate. Always use a locking pin. I've done a.bunch of engines with it.
Don't look at these tools as a sunk cost as you can resell the for 50% or more of what you paid when you're done. Also keep looking for sellers doing the same.
I do have the 2 ton HF folding engine stand and I wouldn't use a 1 ton as I have seen others do as the ones I've seen flex too much and have bent with the 1hdfts I build, similar weight to the 1fz.
I use a much longer handle to rotate it, or just grab the engine, as the handle is useless. And I greased the rotating interface. Still a bear to rotate. Always use a locking pin. I've done a.bunch of engines with it.
Don't look at these tools as a sunk cost as you can resell the for 50% or more of what you paid when you're done. Also keep looking for sellers doing the same.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks for the illustrated reply! That’s quite a droop for <500# on a double-braced two-ton stand. Would you trust it without the braces, or were you pushing the limit with something else?
I braced the post because the movement in the bolted joint combined with droop at the top was a bit unsettling.
I don't think it was going to collapse, just made it awkward to work on
- Thread starter
- #99
Any reason compression and leakdown tests shouldn't be done with the engine out of the vehicle? Less accurate results if not recently run, maybe? Damage from repeated cranking and without oil Lack of mechanical resistance? Excessive stress on engine stand etc.?
Last edited:
No, they're fine on a (strong) stand ,( Dynamic loads of a cranking engine are different/greater from static load of a sitting engine,)
Also
Verify and set valve clearance before either test though so you know a tight valve clearance isn't borking your tests.
Have the throttle body off or held open for the tests Too.
Also
Verify and set valve clearance before either test though so you know a tight valve clearance isn't borking your tests.
Have the throttle body off or held open for the tests Too.
