1FZ Pre-Build Questions (2 Viewers)

[jaymar]

Ok, I have to chime in here.
I am the guy that removed the engine from the donor, those pics are in my garage.
It is not my truck and I did not sell the engine, I only removed it (and I am putting in the 1hdft that is replacing it for the owner)

A few things you should know:
- All electrical connectors were unplugged cleanly from the engine. Do the same when you remove yours and it will all plug back in. You will likely break the 6 fuel injector connectors on your harness when you disconnect them, so be ready for that with replacements. This is also why the upper intake manifold and TB are only loosely bolted on, as they have to be removed to run your harness back through and make all the connections.
- The only thing "cut" was the exhaust pipes.
- All the "stuff" that runs to the trans is: dipstick tube, 2 vent hoses (that attach to the dipstick tube), 2 trans cooler lines., Kickdown cable and electrical harness. All of which are part of the (your) trans assembly and you reuse. They are not on the trans-less engine you are receiving.

- this engine ran great and quiet before removal, based on the short time I saw it.

That said, having done a head gasket and timing chain in the car on another one of these, and also being OCD about quality and reliability, I would personally do the following while I had it in front of me in a stand:

- install a new head gasket and bolts and have the head/valves checked at a machine shop and at a minimum install new stem seals.
- replace at least the timing chain guides, as they fail with age and it's a huge pita to do in the car. This will force you to reseal the oil pan which is another must do.
- oil pump reseal
- front and rear main seals
- water pump and hoses
- VC and spark plug gaskets
- PHH (already has the Good constant pressure clamps)
- rebuild injectors (easy to do now and not that expensive and great peace of mind)
- all new gaskets and seals (Toyota head gasket kit mentioned above)
- replace all vacuum hoses and test components under the upper intake manifold before reassembly.
- new fuel filter

I wouldn't worry about the bottom end and rotating assembly at this mileage.
Clean the piston tops of carbon when the head is off and inpect the block deck at the water passages for signs of corrosion.

It is a lot of work you have ahead to do this swap.
Put the extra time in while the new engine is on a stand in front of you to eliminate potential future likely problems or you are rolling the dice and leaving unknowns that could have been solved easily.
Regardless of how great it ran or how low mile it was, it's still a 1997 engine....

Thanks for the suggestions; I'm going to use them as a 'base list' and then do whatever else I can afford at this point. If you have suggestions for things to do in the engine bay while the block is out, I'm all eyes...

Sorry I just assumed the tranny stuff had been cut away and was kicking myself for not thinking of that beforehand. So, thanks for the attention to detail as well. P.S. -- Tranny is coming my way a few months down the road.

 

[jaymar]

And the crank. To hone with the crank in CAN be done, but not advisable. The amount of engine killing microscopic debris from a proper hone(ultimately it should only be a deglaze) is pretty hard to get cleaned out after, with crank installed.

Honing follows a bore job to get it to correct specs. Honing creates less heat than boring so it is more precise than boring.

Deglazing occurs when bores are within spec and installing new rings.

Engine block, to be done correctly, should be completely disassembled.

IMOP, install the used engine after all typical seals and gaskets are replaced as it’s easier out of the engine bay.

Yes, if you want peace of mind do the head gasket.

But tear down is not necessary. If you are going that far why not just do the original engine

Original engine (236k vs 170k) is going to need a compete rebuild; more time, more money. If I can get another 100-200k out of the new one, with considerably less expense, I can spread the cost of the OCD rebuild over several years. Assuming I don't fall into a pile of money in the meantime (in which case, I think I'll put @SNLC on speed-dial and OCD the whole damned truck).

 

[Augustiron]

My tips

- Power wash and degrease the engine and engine bay as best you can before starting disassembly.
-clean engine bay and front axle again more thoroughly when engine is out.
- be super organized, have a good area for storage and stage parts in order (first off go to the rear, last off in front, so when reassembling, you just work your way towards the back of the pile)
- label every wire when disconnecting
- bag and label bolts and any parts removed as they are removed, don't wait and let them pile up as they can get mixed up or forgotten
- Take loads of pictures before disassembly of each section
- remember or write down sequences of disassembly as some things get done in specific orders
- Pay attention and remember disassembly as it will help reassembly. If possible, reassemble.as soon as possible after disassembly to keep it fresh.
- make notes on what comes off that will need replacing so you can order new in the downtime
- clean and paint the new engine while it's out/apart
- clean and paint all takeoff parts that will be reused, I clean every nut and bolt.
- replace all cooling hoses while apart (heater control valve, phh and rear heater hoses)

Taking your time and having attention to detail is paramount.
Also, get the factory service manual.

 

[Augustiron]

From what I heard, your old engine has a knock?
That's probably one of the most expensive issues to rebuild (crank/rod damage)

 

[jaymar]

From what I heard, your old engine has a knock?
That's probably one of the most expensive issues to rebuild (crank/rod damage)

No knock; gas in the radiator, some overheating from blown rad. Truck not well-tended in general by PO (original hoses, cracked spindle, bubble rust over windshield and cetera) and is nearly 250k, so that engine will be a full-on rebuild regardless. The engine you pulled should hold fewer surprises. Engine bay and drivetrain up next. Once things are reliable, I'll get into the old engine--though I'm told it's cheaper to buy a new short block and go from there. Others say a good machinist can get tighter tolerances from an old block. I don't know enough right now to know which is (aside from price) the better option, or whether it's six of one, half a dozen of the other...

 

[Broski]

Just because the motor has 250k on it doesn’t mean it needs a full rebuild.
Mine blew the head gasket at 260k the head was pulled The original hashmarks were still there in the cylinders there was no lip at the top of the cylinders, head was sent out and found to still be flat within factory specs.
Valve seals were replaced but no valve job done
It was put back together that was in 2015 it still runs like a top and burns no oil.
It’s not a DD But it’s Uber reliable starts every time and has never let me down.
I drive it Deep into the back country with confidence, And if you’ve seen any of my videos you know it’s not babied.
I’m always impressed with how reliable The motor is.

 

[jaymar]

Just because the motor has 250k on it doesn’t mean it needs a full rebuild.
Mine blew the head gasket at 260k the head was pulled The original hashmarks were still there in the cylinders there was no lip at the top of the cylinders, head was sent out and found to still be flat within factory specs.
Valve seals were replaced but no valve job done
It was put back together that was in 2015 it still runs like a top and burns no oil.
It’s not a DD But it’s Uber reliable starts every time and has never let me down.
I drive it Deep into the back country with confidence, And if you’ve seen any of my videos you know it’s not babied.
I’m always impressed with how reliable The motor is.

Duly noted. What's your current mileage? I'll see what I see when it comes out. Given the premature push for EVs and the eventual and inevitable NLA parts status and whatever costly inconveniences the pols decide to throw our way, I'm strongly inclined to have one and preferably two of these in like-new condition, if I can afford it.

 

[on the rocks]

My question: What the h*ll are all those lines snaking over the tranny. Anyone happen to have a parts list handy for lines and connectors etc.?

Did this get answered? You talking hoses or wiring? The hoses are likely the TC(certainly fried and leaking due to heat) and tranny breathers. Low cost 1/4" fuel line replacement for sure. If wiring, pull off all the old loom and look at the wires and replace all connectors(if needed). Pretty sure all are available from Toyota if not Mouser. Replace and tape up all loom at a very low cost.
Looking at this:

I would suggest looking beyond the motor, I see A LOT of things here NOT OEM. Clean this sucker up with a tooth brush, relocate everything possible back to OEM while you can and clean up and replace everything in site while you can. @TYM4FUN has a great build I would suggest reading through. The guy has major OCD and while not a full motor pull, did it right. Rethink your budget and go through the brakes completely, clean up the frame, pull the steering box and check everything in the area and clean/ paint while you can easily now! Better to find problems now then later when your broke and out of money.
Good luck!

 

[Augustiron]

Lol, that engine bay pic is from the donor that has like 50 auxillary wiring items.

 

[jaymar]

Did this get answered? You talking hoses or wiring? The hoses are likely the TC(certainly fried and leaking due to heat) and tranny breathers. Low cost 1/4" fuel line replacement for sure. If wiring, pull off all the old loom and look at the wires and replace all connectors(if needed). Pretty sure all are available from Toyota if not Mouser. Replace and tape up all loom at a very low cost.
Looking at this:
View attachment 3193775
I would suggest looking beyond the motor, I see A LOT of things here NOT OEM. Clean this sucker up with a tooth brush, relocate everything possible back to OEM while you can and clean up and replace everything in site while you can. @TYM4FUN has a great build I would suggest reading through. The guy has major OCD and while not a full motor pull, did it right. Rethink your budget and go through the brakes completely, clean up the frame, pull the steering box and check everything in the area and clean/ paint while you can easily now! Better to find problems now then later when your broke and out of money.
Good luck!

I hear you on the lines. The other stuff--that's the rig the engine/tranny came from, not mine. I'm thinking the washer reservoir relocation is to make room for a second battery.

First thing I did to mine was change out all brake components at the wheels, and replace every engine hose I could reach (along with the HCV)...

 

[jaymar]

Hot tip: When dealing with a freight company, do not expect the item to show up on any particular day. They will not call ahead, they will not text. I was scheduled for Friday, they showed up (unannounced) on Wednesday, after hours. Rescheduled for Friday, sat here from 10-10 and (of course) they never showed. I'm told this is not uncommon. Maybe I'll see it next year. Expect the unexpected. Merry Christmas! (Are we still allowed to say that?)

 

[fjbj40]

Hot tip: When dealing with a freight company, do not expect the item to show up on any particular day. They will not call ahead, they will not text. I was scheduled for Friday, they showed up (unannounced) on Wednesday, after hours. Rescheduled for Friday, sat here from 10-10 and (of course) they never showed. I'm told this is not uncommon. Maybe I'll see it next year. Expect the unexpected. Merry Christmas! (Are we still allowed to say that?)

Merry Christmas

Edited by Moderator. No politics from either side

 

[Broski]

Merry Christmas and whoever says we are not allowed to say that anymore can go f*** themselves , I’m tired of the wokes and liberal righteous crowds

Christmas is for KIDs

 

[fjbj40]

Christmas is for KIDs

I’m a kid then cause I got Cruiser parts

 

[jaymar]

Has anyone ever thought about getting an engine off the floor (or a shop cart) and up on a stand without using a crane? I'm tight on garage space, won't need a crane for months--but will need to get this engine on a stand in the near future. I have a 4-ton floor jack with a high reach, but can't see that being stable. No overhead beams I'd rely on. I suppose I could use four bottle jacks under a shop cart, maybe with cross-beams, prop and repeat with elevated jacks--but I'm about four bottle jacks short for that. Any other ideas? Weighs maybe 600 lbs at the moment.

 

[Augustiron]

You can rube Goldberg anything with enough creativity, but getting a HF engine hoist ,(and stand) now will make your life a lot easier.

Or rent one for a day to get the new engine on the stand and work on, then rent it again for the weekend when you pull yours and stab this one in.

Harbor freight stuff is pretty cheap, and you can always sell it when you're done

 

[mudgudgeon]

Has anyone ever thought about getting an engine off the floor (or a shop cart) and up on a stand without using a crane? I'm tight on garage space, won't need a crane for months--but will need to get this engine on a stand in the near future. I have a 4-ton floor jack with a high reach, but can't see that being stable. No overhead beams I'd rely on. I suppose I could use four bottle jacks under a shop cart, maybe with cross-beams, prop and repeat with elevated jacks--but I'm about four bottle jacks short for that. Any other ideas? Weighs maybe 600 lbs at the moment.

Without a lifting point above the stand, you're shìt out of luck.

Buy, borrow or hire a crane.

 

[DrDuc]

Without a lifting point above the stand, you're shìt out of luck.

Buy, borrow or hire a crane.

My nephew can deadlift something like 750 pounds. Maybe he could lend a hand.

 

[mudgudgeon]

My nephew can deadlift something like 750 pounds. Maybe he could lend a hand.

In the past I lifted complete small block Chevy in and out of the back of a ute on more than one occasion

 

[jaymar]

In the past I lifted complete small block Chevy in and out of the back of a ute on more than one occasion

So if I can rustle up a time machine, we’re good?