1FZ-FE Stroker Build (5.5L - 102mm Bore - 115mm Stroke) (2 Viewers)

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New Plans:

This build got some local attention, I may possibly be challenging more and more people with powerful 1FZ-FE builds, have to step it up. Lets see how far I can take it.

1. Camshaft Replacement (Bigger Camshaft, More Lift, More Duration, Same LSA):

The current Kelford stage 3 camshaft is great however, it lacks duration and lift. I need much more duration and lift in order to get the best high RPM power and peak power.

I talked to a sales rep from Brian Crower, I am going to get a custom grind, one that is based on their off the shelf stage 6 camshaft but instead of a 114 LSA it will have a 106 LSA.

With that narrow LSA plus all that duration, I bet it is going to have an extremally choppy idle and terrible low RPM drivability, much more so than now. But hopefully a much beefier top end.

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2. Exhaust (Less Backpressure):

Just like I mentioned before, I was already planning to go with a larger header and a larger exhaust pipe.

This will have an even larger impact with this larger new camshaft.

Upon the arrival of the new camshaft, I decided I am going remove the electronic valve muffler and to go with a Magnaflow straight throw muffler with a 4 inch inlet and 4 inch outlet. This should substantially reduce back pressure.

So the plan is a larger 6-1 header with 2 inch primaries and a 4 inch collector from American Racing (identical to there off the shelf design but larger piping), a collector extension after the header, straight through Magna flow muffler, then dump. This should save a good amount of weight too since I will be removing the factory tail pipe muffler and the electronic muffler is quite large and heavy (since it is essentially two mufflers in one).

Muffler Link:
3. Ignition (More Spark Energy):

I found performance ignition coils that were originally designed for the 3UR-FE engine, they claim a 10x increase in spark energy. Decided ill try them out, hopefully they do something.

Product Link: IP Performance Coil Set (8) - Toyota 3UR-FE 1UR 2UR V8 - https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/ip-performance-coil-set-8-toyota-3ur-fe-1ur-2ur-v8/

4. Solid Motor Mounts + Solid Transmission Mounts + Short Throw Shifter (More Power To The Wheels, More Consistent & Faster Shifting)

I found a local fabricator who can create solid motor and transmission mounts.

This should help with power via less energy lost through motor movement. Noticeable improvement? Hopefully.

Transmission mounts should help with via more consistent shifting, since it will keep the transmission locked in place.

Cons, lots of vibration in the cab! Possibility off cracking the block too?

Additionally, I also ordered a short throw shifter from PDI, this should help me shift faster (less distance between shifts).

They claim a 60% reduction in throw travel.

Short Throw Shifter Link: PDI H150/H151/H152 Short Shifter - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products/pdi-h150h151h152-short-shifter

5. Lighter Pullies + A/C Delete + Clutch Fan Delete + Electric Water Pump (Less Parasitic Loss/Inertia):

I will cancel the entire A/C system, removing the condenser should provide better cooling since the air will go straight through the radiator.

The clutch fan will be swapped with dual puller fans mounted on a custom aluminum shroud.

I will swap the engine crank pully with a lighter one.

No A/C compressor and no mechanical water pump means I will only have a single belt.

The higher the RPM the higher the inertia and the more difference these mods will make.
 
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Kudos on all the engine work but what have you done to the transmission??? I can't believe how well it changes gears under that sort of torque :oops:
 
I assume the transmission is a H151, it shouldn't have any issues at that sort of power
 
Kudos on all the engine work but what have you done to the transmission??? I can't believe how well it changes gears under that sort of torque :oops:
Stock manual transmission that comes with all manual 100 series land cruisers 1998-2007. Local sources claim this transmission handles up to 700 whp. From that point people often go for ALBENZ straight cut or Precision Generation #1 or #2, all of which are capable of going beyond 1000whp. Not an issue now unless I decide to turbocharge this engine.
 
I assume the transmission is a H151, it shouldn't have any issues at that sort of power
Yeah, never doubted it could handle the torque, more impressed by how quickly it can be shifted between gears. I've had three 151s and they all baulked at high RPM gearchanges. But that might be more down to the clutches than the trans.
 
It has been a while.

I installed a turbo on the stroker!

Just 6 PSI of boost and the thing is an absolute rocket ship, the G force on second gear is exhilarating and addictive.

I kept the air fuel ratio adequately rich whenever boost kicks in around 10.88 AFR to keep the combustion temps as cool as I can to prevent knock, I also have conservative ignition timing since I do not have knock sensors so I wont be able to optimizing the timing without risking detonation.

I will need a smaller wastegate spring or something since I dont want full boost like this all the time, since its a bit too much, I want to have control over the maximum boost so I will install the softest wastegate spring possible (which is around 2 PSI) and will use the boost control feature in the ECU to control the wastegate actuator and increase boost from there.

But the boost does seem to take time to build up, the turbo might be too large or the wastegate or something, I do not have much experience with turbos so I am not sure what other factors contribute to lag other than the turbo size (larger more lag), I know that it needs exhaust energy to spool up, and that is also dependent on the power band off course. I will see what I can do to optimize that.

There is no way the stock manual transmission will be able to put up with this, I am expecting third gear to blow up soon, and I already ordered a straight cut gear set (1-2-3-4) + a straight cut counter shaft. And I will need to move to a tipple plate clutch.

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Yes you can have too much power, lol.

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wow a 2.1 60ft on the street
 
> There is no way the stock manual transmission will be able to put up with this

Yup. 4L80e ftw. Quicker shifts, truck stays in boost.
 
I've had three 151s and they all baulked at high RPM gearchanges.

You’re not pulling on the stick hard enough. 😀

Let the kid drive the lx450 w/1hd-fte (PDI FMIC & airbox, gturbo red wheel, +70% injectors, Unichip piggyback, h152f, Manta exhaust, HD clutch, 4.56:1s, 37s,…). It’s armored (slee f/r, ipor sliders, arb drawers, tools, frontrsnge rack, 42 gal LRA aux tank,…). Big heavy truck.

He stalled it 4x in the lot, (TBF, the clutch is quite grabby) got it out on the street, stabbed the throttle, spun it to 3000 rpm, and yanked the 1-2 shift so hard the tires chirped when he all but sidestepped the clutch.

We had a talk about that. I was gentle.

(Truck has a blue wheel, bigger tune, crossover delete, fresh head job, ARP head studs now. It’s nuts. Not as nuts as the truck in this thread, but I get 16mph doing 80-85mph.)
 
Preparing it for dune season!

Cant wait to see how it performs off road.

Finally installed the magnaflow straight through muffler with a 4 inch inlet and 4 inch outlet, dumps straight out, no tail pipe muffler/resonator.

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Raised the front height by 2.5 inches and the rear by 3 inches. (Front via torsion bar, rear via coil and spacer)

Installed 2.5 king shocks (revalved them, added significantly more compression upfront), and total chaos upper control arms for some extra droop and to get the alignment fixed at the raised ride height.

Installed 16 inch Toyota steelies and Maxxis sand tyres (34.5 inch).

Replaced all body mounts, and bushings.

Reinstalled the front differential, driveshaft, and axels. Originally removed for weight reduction.




I enjoy listening to it struggle to breath at 1000 RPM, and the lambda sensor reads 1.5 lambda due to all the extra oxygen from the overlap caused by the 105.5 LSA camshaft, ECU GOING HAYWIRE! have to turn off close loop fueling below 1200 RPM since its being mislead. The brakes are stiff as hell due to the lack of vacuum, the map reading is at 70-75 KPA at idle and the headlights dim like an old dodge charger, cant imagine the motor mounts are having a good time with the engine shaking like that. The lightweight flywheel chatter is really nice as well.

Its interesting the reactions I get when a local asks about my engine build, since I am going against everyone's (locals) rules apparently since my turbo build is using a 1.2mm head gasket instead of everyone else that runs boost which is 2.0mm (2.0mm less compression, 1.2 more compression) + my deck is honed, and I am running flat pistons for more compression instead of everyone else that I have met who use dished, all without meth injection or race gas (93 octane pump gas), but off course this requires me to retard the timing by quite a bit when boost kicks in. On top of that I am using a narrow LSA camshaft, instead of a 114+, most people here claim that this is forbidden in turbo builds due to the narrow powerband. But I am glad I experimented since its running great.

Its gonna be fun trying out VP Racing's Q16 race gas just to see performance potential, 116 octane!, in addition to a 5% increase in fuel flow which also adds to the detonation protection due to the cylinder cooling, this will give me a ton of head room to raise the timing and boost, Ill try that once I install the straight cut gears and the tipple plate clutch.

I already upgraded to 2000 EMTRON injectors (2200 CC @40PSI fuel pressure) and doubled the fuel pump (two 525 LPH fuel pumps), surplus fueling setup for insurance.
 
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Sounds unruly!


Dang I hate this thread!

Got a 1fz-fe at the machine shop now getting quoted. Needs a new crank 😤

So tempted to dump money on a 4.8 litre stroker kit, but know its the tip of the iceberg, and an engine build and everything that comes with it would be double the value of the 80 as it sits now!
 
This is awesome no doubt.
But like another said, there's no way we'd be running 7krpm in 4LO.
So...I'm curious how this sort of thing can be done for low rpm torque.
And would it be worth it compared to simpler off the shelf stuff?
That thing sounds like a tuned Supra. And I'm quite keen on those.
 
This is awesome no doubt.
But like another said, there's no way we'd be running 7krpm in 4LO.
So...I'm curious how this sort of thing can be done for low rpm torque.
And would it be worth it compared to simpler off the shelf stuff?
That thing sounds like a tuned Supra. And I'm quite keen on those.
Displacement increases torque you’d do the same thing for 4LO you just wouldn’t put a big cam in it.
 
This is awesome no doubt.
But like another said, there's no way we'd be running 7krpm in 4LO.
So...I'm curious how this sort of thing can be done for low rpm torque.
And would it be worth it compared to simpler off the shelf stuff?
That thing sounds like a tuned Supra. And I'm quite keen on those.
Please consider looking at the first page of this thread. You will find the peak torque numbers of the stroker build when it was N/A with a mild cam.

Not only was the peak torque significantly higher than stock, it came in much earlier as well.
 
This is absolutely insane. Please get a buddy to do a recording of you flooring it from a standing start on the street. Seeing behind the wheel is awesome, but I'd love to see what the car itself looks like to an observer as it launches itself down the road at hyperspeed.
 
Can I also say how impressed I am that the H151 was able to handle this insane torque. Maybe I missed it, but did you have to change anything on the drivetrain to make this work, or are we talking stock gearbox, axles, diffs, drievshafts?
 

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