mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I believe stock gearbox, but he's talked about putting in straigh cut gears
1FZ-FE Stroker Build (5.5L - 102mm Bore - 115mm Stroke)
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I believe stock gearbox, but he's talked about putting in straigh cut gears
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- #82
I am not aware of the name or part number of the stock Toyota manual transmissions, but if when you guys say H151 you mean the manual transmission that we (locals & middle east) got on all our 100 series land cruisers from 1998-2007 then yes they are extremally durable.
To put it into perspective, if it managed to handle the past 9 or so months of constant abuse without a single issue with the significantly increased engine output, on top of the fact that its 24 years old! Then it must be pretty beefy. The locals here, and I am going by anecdotal claims here, claim that the 100 series manual transmission is able to handle 750 WHP reliably, beyond that the third gear is prone to breaking.
And remember that this is not my first land cruiser with that manual transmission, I have owned seven over the past 10 years, and I have beaten the crap out of all of them. It really is overbuilt/overengineered, no doubt.
As for the drivetrain, I have seen 1000whp+ builds here that have straight cut gears and a straight cut counter shaft installed but with the stock transfer case and drivetrain (stock driveshafts and differentials). So yeah the rest of the drivetrain must be pretty beefy as well considering that.
I have never broken or damaged a stock 100 series manual transmission.
I have never broken any drivetrain components before other than only once, broke a transfer case a few years ago simply because it had no oil in it due to a leak.
As for a acceleration video outside the vehicle, I dont have one, but I do have this burnout video of when it was built but N/A. I will record more off road footage of it in action soon.
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- #83
Yes, and I am planning to install straight cut gears and a straight cut counter shaft.
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- #84
Ladies and gentlemen I am flabbergasted. I decided to try VP Racing's Q16 gas, let the images below explain the whole story.
Can you tell us if your stroker crank is using smaller than stock Rod journals and rods please?
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- #86
I’ll have to ask the garage owner who builds my engines. I have no idea but he installs them regularly so he’ll probably have the answer.
This guy has a 132mm stroker crank in stock!! Imagine that with a 103mm bore piston, it’s gonna be 6.5L! I might try this, so much displacement with only 6 cylinders.
Quick update while I’m here:
Btw guys it’s been a year and this engine is still going strong even with hard use. I’m quite surprised the pistons and crankshaft are still in tact, other than that one time were debris entered and damaged one of the valves everything is still in one piece, this happened while it was naturally aspirated when I had the open air scoop in front of the head light.
It still has the turbo on it but I switched back to pump gas (93 octane) from Q16, and I installed the the smaller wastegate spring that I was planning on using.
Now the boost peaks at around 3 PSI without using boost control. Since I started using it off-road every weekend, and the dunes especially can be grueling, so wanted it to be safe while using pump gas. Since Q16 is way too expensive to be using all the time. That lowered boost coupled with safety strategies to prevent knock in my tune like:
1. Retarding timing when inlet air temp OR coolant gets hot
2. Adding additional fuel and offsetting the AFR target at WOT or under boost when coolant temps get hot
3. Retarding timing slightly at peak torque for reduced cylinder pressure to prevent blowing head gaskets
4. Reduced rev limit when the coolant temps starts climbing (this serves as an alert in case I was not keeping an eye on the gauge)
5. And off course targeting a fat air fuel ratio like 10.55 under boost to keep those cylinders cool during prolonged use under boost like climbing large dunes. At first it targets 10.88 then it tapers down based on time under boost. Keep in mind that one wideband sensor after the turbo at the header collector provides the average lambda/AFR for all 6 cylinders so targeting something like 11.5 means one or more cylinders could be 12.2+ so best to keep it nice and rich.
It honestly still feels pretty powerful with just 3 PSI, it feels like it’s around 440-470 HP (butt dyno), which is expected since its a fully built stroker with a big cam and high compression.
I also reinstalled the factory throttle body so I can get the ISC solenoid working (idle control) which is awesome, now I don’t have to keep my foot on the pedal when it’s cold since it’s a big cam, I have it set so it idles at 1600 RPM when cold then it drops to 1000 RPM when hot, also connected the oem A/C request switch to the ECU so now the idle kicks up 300 RPM when the A/C clutch engages, no more bogging! I kept perfecting the tune throughout the past few months and it drives like a dream.
More 1FZ content soon.
Can you ask where they are getting crankshafts and other internal parts from? Is this a source with a website etc? Thanks and keep the interesting content coming!
A lot of the middle east shops will not give their suppliers. I know that at one point the middle east garage Subzero Motorsports was having ATI build them Harmonic Balancers for the 1FZ, I contacted ATI several times and was told that it was an exclusive product to Subzero Motorsports and they wouldn't sell them.
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- #89
Most welcome, will do.
From what I know currently, some of the parts that are available locally are ordered from the UAE and are not available or 'listed' online from what I have seen, stroker kits (pistons, rod and crankshaft combo), certain camshaft combos (some grinds that work really well for a target powerband are tailored to a certain workshop as requested by the customer/owner), headers, clutch kits like the McLeod MagForce and RST, etc. Which makes sense since the demand is so ridiculously high here, 1FZ-FE's are used for everything, drift, roll race, dune climb competitions, you name it. Our flag, the Qatar flag should contain a 1FZ-FE in it.
Here is a website of a store located in the UAE that has an extensive list of 1FZ-FE parts, I forgot to share this with you guys. They have a ton of stuff including stroker crankshafts of varying sizes, rods (steel I-Beam H-Beam, aluminum), pistons of varying sizes to suit stock stroke or larger from the top brands like JE, CP, etc. Dished pistons for low compression safe turbo builds, flat pistons for high compression N/A builds.
I purchased several sets of CP pistons from this website.
www.deepperformance.com
Type 1FZ in the search box and behold all the performance parts.
From what I know currently, some of the parts that are available locally are ordered from the UAE and are not available or 'listed' online from what I have seen, stroker kits (pistons, rod and crankshaft combo), certain camshaft combos (some grinds that work really well for a target powerband are tailored to a certain workshop as requested by the customer/owner), headers, clutch kits like the McLeod MagForce and RST, etc. Which makes sense since the demand is so ridiculously high here, 1FZ-FE's are used for everything, drift, roll race, dune climb competitions, you name it. Our flag, the Qatar flag should contain a 1FZ-FE in it.
Here is a website of a store located in the UAE that has an extensive list of 1FZ-FE parts, I forgot to share this with you guys. They have a ton of stuff including stroker crankshafts of varying sizes, rods (steel I-Beam H-Beam, aluminum), pistons of varying sizes to suit stock stroke or larger from the top brands like JE, CP, etc. Dished pistons for low compression safe turbo builds, flat pistons for high compression N/A builds.
I purchased several sets of CP pistons from this website.
Home | Deep Performance
Type 1FZ in the search box and behold all the performance parts.
I can confirm that also. I tried to get a custom 1FZ crank from Bryant Cranks in USA but they would not make as they were under license from someone in Saudi. Shame.
Thanks for the website, post more please, hard to even Google those websites from here. Love your build!Most welcome, will do.
From what I know currently, some of the parts that are available locally are ordered from the UAE and are not available or 'listed' online from what I have seen, stroker kits (pistons, rod and crankshaft combo), certain camshaft combos (some grinds that work really well for a target powerband are tailored to a certain workshop as requested by the customer/owner), headers, clutch kits like the McLeod MagForce and RST, etc. Which makes sense since the demand is so ridiculously high here, 1FZ-FE's are used for everything, drift, roll race, dune climb competitions, you name it. Our flag, the Qatar flag should contain a 1FZ-FE in it.
Here is a website of a store located in the UAE that has an extensive list of 1FZ-FE parts, I forgot to share this with you guys. They have a ton of stuff including stroker crankshafts of varying sizes, rods (steel I-Beam H-Beam, aluminum), pistons of varying sizes to suit stock stroke or larger from the top brands like JE, CP, etc. Dished pistons for low compression safe turbo builds, flat pistons for high compression N/A builds.
I purchased several sets of CP pistons from this website.
Home | Deep Performance
Type 1FZ in the search box and behold all the performance parts.
I joined as I have seen you ask several times. I have experience with the 116mm cast iron deep performance precision crankshaft.
The rod journal diamter is 49.990 out the box and has been casted to fit RB30 STD length connecting rods. The rod to stroke ratio is very low at 1.31. The clearances of the block is not much as you have done. Barley 3mm cut required.
Thank you so much for replying. I have sent you a message so I don't hijack this thread.
Please come back and tell us what you learn. haha
will do, or I will mention here and move to my threads
From memory a 1FZ crank has a rod journal of 56.990mm. So like I have said the extreme strokes are made by downsizing the Rod journal and likely the wrist pin sizes.
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- #97
@Qxz902 @scottryana
Thank you for sharing. I am grateful to be surrounded by knowledgeable gentlemen on this forum.
Thank you for sharing. I am grateful to be surrounded by knowledgeable gentlemen on this forum.
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- #98
I just read this and laughed
this is spot on. Even more so now that I have more 1FZ-FEs to work on.Even if a certain change worked out well and noticeably improved power my mind just never stops. It’s always onto the next thing. Addiction. No responsibilities no wife to worry about wake up check on my university assignments and on to the workshop! This is gonna be short lived so I have to make the most of it.
I want to try individual throttle bodies (one throttle body per cylinder) with a short path to the cylinder, I want to try playing around with headers as well, shortenining the primary pipe length and enlarging the diameter to move peak torque even further up to see how that does with a big cam, the further you move the peak torque up the higher the HP since (HP = torque * RPM / 5252) with this in mind how far can we push it to gain the best peak HP? Even though that would mean the low end and mid range is going to suck.
On the flip side, I want to try a dual throttle body setup with a hybrid intake manifold and a flapper actuated by the ECU. Where a longer path is used at low RPM and a shorter path is used at high RPM inspired by Nissans intake on the TB48. To give a really broad powerband as far as the intakes concerned. Really curious to see how this one goes and whether it will actually deliver the kind of performance I’m expecting. The flapper would be connected to the ECU as an auxiliary output and would be controlled with a table where it alternates at a certain RPM range and manifold pressure.
We will see how all this goes in the future.
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Is there a way to share a "conversation"? I learned a bit regarding what they are using. Good conversation on what bearings to use etc. 116 mm cranks with small journals, special rods and pistons. You can actually buy the whole package from deepperformance.com . Good website just to see what they are doing by looking at parts. For example they sell 103mm pistons, so now I don't feel so bad going 102.
Have you ever heard of Rotrax superchargers? I learned about them fro the UAE website. I think that is what I would try if I was going for a boost.
Centrifugal Superchargers +1200 HP Bolt-On Power
1200+ HP. No boost lag. Bolt on Centrifugal Superchargers for cars, motorcycles, and off-road.
rotrex.com
