The FSM does a fantastic job of detailing out an engine rebuild so pay close attention to it. If you take it slow and steady, you'll gain confidence with each minor milestone you achieve. Enjoy the process, I thought it was fun. It was winter, so I had nothing else going on when I did mine.
Finally got the head off to inspect the block. Looks like some vertical scarring in the cylinders and a #6 HG issue perhaps, but I'll admit that I'm not used to inspecting these things so please chime in if you see something that needs attention. As I'm planning to bore the cylinders anyway, the condition of them doesn't bother me, unless there's something I'm not seeing.
Alright, getting to the part I've been nervous about this whole time. The crank bolt....
I bought this spare motor already on the stand as it sits, so I'm not sure what my options are for trying to hold onto the rear while working on the crank. Is there a tool for holding down the rear?
Do you plan to replace the harmonic balancer? If so then you can just use a strap wrench on it.but it can very much damage the pully so i would only do that if you plan on replacing it
Do you plan to replace the harmonic balancer? If so then you can just use a strap wrench on it.but it can very much damage the pully so i would only do that if you plan on replacing it
That or something similar will go into the two service bolt holes and hold the pulley in place while you torque on the nut. I also used a wall and another helper to hold the engine down as well as some cheater bars. You also don't have to torque the crankshaft hard by doing it that way.
Yeah this was my first thought but wasn't sure if I would be messing anything up back there putting that much pressure on it. I'll probably go this route and hope I don't have to spend a fortune on compressors and air tools, not that I would mind the addition.
Got my new tools set up to break this bad boy off, but I'm just breaking other items instead.
3/4 breaker bar with 12 pt 30mm socket. 6 ft pipe on the end of that. I used a motor mount bolt in the rear flange, it just sheared the bolt off like it was butter. The problem is most likely that the bolt has to stick out a ways to reach the stand, which makes it bend and shear off.
Ouch. The bright side is it shouldnt be hard to grind that flatter, drill a hole and use an ez-out. It would probably reverse out with a left hand bit and slow high torque setting on the drill.
I was able to get it out. I think I'll go to home depot and see if I can find a stronger bolt and a bunch of washers to take up the gap and give it one last go before plan B.
Ouch. The bright side is it shouldnt be hard to grind that flatter, drill a hole and use an ez-out. It would probably reverse out with a left hand bit and slow high torque setting on the drill.
Since you're doing a full rebuild, I'd also try some heat on the crankshaft bolt also. If Loctite was used during assembly at some point, you'll need to heat that to about 250 degrees to break the bond. Yes, you'll likely burn/melt the crankshaft seal but it really doesn't matter since you're going to replace everything. And I'll second the vote for air tools and a large impact gun. I use a Chicago Pneumatic 1" drive impact for this sort of thing and it works like a charm.
Perhaps a chunk of angle iron that two bolts can go through. Set it up in such a way that the iron contacts the stand to stop the rotation. A quick impact from an impact wrench will work better than brute force from a breaker bar, unless you can "pop" the breaker bar enough to break it loose.
