Builds 1fz-fe rebuild

[satchel]

I agree that an impact wrench would be the best option from what I've read, but some of the threads I've read mention needing in the realm of 10CFM at 90 PSI to provide enough power, and I don't have a compressor (or 220) to give me anywhere near that much torque, which is why I'm going the old fashion method.

Perhaps a chunk of angle iron that two bolts can go through. Set it up in such a way that the iron contacts the stand to stop the rotation. A quick impact from an impact wrench will work better than brute force from a breaker bar, unless you can "pop" the breaker bar enough to break it loose.

 

[Wompom]

I was able to pull mine using a 20V dewalt impact. Actually did 2 different motors that way last winter.
I sprayed some acetone/ATF mix on the crank bolt about a week before hand on both. Made a huge difference.
I had another friend holding the harmonic balancer but not hard enough to do damage, just keep the motor from spinning. The impact should do the work.
I did a full rebuild last winter. Can be read on here:

Builds - Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild(It's Seized) Full Engine Rebuild

I'd done motor swaps but this was my first big rebuild. Listen to what people tell you on here, at least the older more respected members. This forum was an absolute lifesaver for me.

Will try to peek in here occasionally but feel free to PM with any questions.
Two recs:
-Get two GOOD torque wrenches. One for small stuff and one for 20-150 or whatever the range is.
-Follow the FSM. It can be confusing, but searching on here usually reveals answers.


If a bolt feels like its not torquing and keeps turning, STOP and figure out why before its too late.
I had to source a new oil cooler learning that one the hard way.

Also, use 6 point sockets! especially with an impact. Harbor freight has a set of big impact 6 points including a 30mm that can usually be picked up for <$20.
Based on what it takes to pull a crank bolt, i wouldn't be using that 12 point.

 

[satchel]

I like the idea. If the next bolt doesn't hold up I may look for something like this to fab up.

Rough but awesome sketch to convey idea:

View attachment 1841938

 

[Saito]

I’d put the flexplate back on and get a tool for holding the flexplate(much more leverage there). You can pick that tool up at your local parts store.

 

[BILT4ME]

The best tool I have ever purchased is a DeWalt 1/2" impact electric. Mine is 18V and is capable of over 300 lb-ft of torque.

It would work to break that loose......maybe.

 

[satchel]

You got it off with an electric impact? I'm not sure I would have that much luck, but maybe I'm just underestimating the power of those things. The ones I see are rated to like 150lbs of torque, which isn't close to what is needed. Would love to use the earthquake other people mention, which is like 800 lbs of torque, but that again falls back to the larger compessor.

I was able to pull mine using a 20V dewalt impact. Actually did 2 different motors that way last winter.
I sprayed some acetone/ATF mix on the crank bolt about a week before hand on both. Made a huge difference.
I had another friend holding the harmonic balancer but not hard enough to do damage, just keep the motor from spinning. The impact should do the work.
I did a full rebuild last winter. Can be read on here:

Builds - Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild(It's Seized) Full Engine Rebuild

Will try to peek in here occassionally but feel free to PM with any questions.
Two recs:
-Get two GOOD torque wrenches. One for small stuff and one for 20-150 or whatever the range is.
-Follow the FSM. It can be confusing, but searching on here usually reveals answers.


If a bolt feels like its not torquing and keeps turning, STOP and figure out why before its too late.
I had to source a new oil cooler learning that one the hard way.

Also, use 6 point sockets! especially with an impact. Harbor freight has a set of big impact 6 points including a 30mm that can usually be picked up for <$20.
Based on what it takes to pull a crank bolt, i wouldn't be using that 12 point.

 

[satchel]

Don't have a flex plate, without going to a junk yard anyway. Bought the engine as is, will use the flexplate on the engine in the truck during replacement.

I’d put the flexplate back on and get a tool for holding the flexplate(much more leverage there). You can pick that tool up at your local parts store.

 

[Wompom]

You got it off with an electric impact? I'm not sure I would have that much luck, but maybe I'm just underestimating the power of those things. The ones I see are rated to like 150lbs of torque, which isn't close to what is needed. Would love to use the earthquake other people mention, which is like 800 lbs of torque, but that again falls back to the larger compessor.

Yep! it took a few shots and a few battery charges (give it a good run at 100%, if it fails, charge it again) and use atf/acetone. It did work though, on two separate motors. One of which hadn't been touched since it was assembled in 95!
I also didn't have the space/budget for real air tools so managed to get it done that way.

also not sure if you're planning on pulling the whole trans/tcase assembly but i'd recommend it. Based on where bolts are/how difficult it was to line up on the ground i would not want to do it in the truck!

 

[satchel]

Interesting. I'll lump this in around plan C or so. Trying to exhaust the cheaper options first.

Yeah, I'll be pulling the entire engine/tranny/tcase once this engine is ready to go in. My wife is still driving the truck for the time being.

Edit - I am seeing some 20v impacts up to 700 lbs of torque now, so maybe this will be a decent option.

Yep! it took a few shots and a few battery charges (give it a good run at 100%, if it fails, charge it again) and use atf/acetone. It did work though, on two separate motors. One of which hadn't been touched since it was assembled in 95!
I also didn't have the space/budget for real air tools so managed to get it done that way.

 

[Wompom]

Interesting. I'll lump this in around plan C or so. Trying to exhaust the cheaper options first.

Yeah, I'll be pulling the entire engine/tranny/tcase once this engine is ready to go in. My wife is still driving the truck for the time being.

Edit - I am seeing some 20v impacts up to 700 lbs of torque now, so maybe this will be a decent option.

Make sure you're looking at breakaway rating too, not just peak torque.

 

[satchel]

This one appears to be adequate. We'll see.

Make sure you're looking at breakaway rating too, not just peak torque.

 

[Wompom]

This one appears to be adequate. We'll see.

That actually may be the exact one I used. I borrowed it from a buddy but it was a 20V Dewalt XR. Took 4-5 tries but eventually spun it right off.

 

[satchel]

Couldn't find any grade 8 or any other of this size bolt at home depot, but did get a nut to use on another motor mount bolt to take up some of the slack at the rear flange.

Anyway, the impact wrench is for certain the way to go. I thought I would try and see how it did fresh out of the box with a drained battery, came off in like 5 seconds. Crank bolt was no match for this guy!

 

[ZackR]

Nicely done! That tool will come in handy way more than you might imagine.

 

[AtlWagen]

This is officially the most interesting thing on the internet. Please keep posting and updating, this may be in my, and others, near future.

 

[Wompom]

rebuilding these is fun. Just make sure you use lots o' assembly lube puttin it back together!

 

[satchel]

I'm having a blast so far. Having a spare drive train to work on certainly helps, but either way, this has been more entertaining than the ls swap I did in my 60. That just seemed like a ton of experimenting with what works, this is more straightforward. Very happy to be doing it all on a stand.

 

[davidp14]

Great work so far!

My little porter cable impact is an impressive tool. I have a air impact as Well but so far I haven't needed to use it over the cordless. I actually keep it and 2 charged batteries in the back of the truck at all times.

I used the starter to take my HB off . Just cause it sounded too cool not to try. . I bet the cordless could have done it though.

 

[Rock40]

Nicely done, keep at it!

 

[satchel]

Alright, pretty much got it naked. I'll talk with the machine shop tomorrow and see how far I need to go into the pistons and crank shaft removal, and go from there. I'm assuming they don't need to see those but who knows. @beno I'll be calling you shortly to start getting things ordered up.

As for other issues I encountered, the top #1 oil pan took me a bit to get off. I didn't see all the bolts I needed, and luckily the fsm tells you exactly how many you should have, so I finally found the one in the far rear I missed. I also included a picture of where the gap is between the pan and the block for the screwdriver to wedge them apart.

Wasn't sure how hard it would be to remove the harmonic balancer, but some light taps with a rubber mallet and it slid right off. All the other gears behind the timing cover came off easily without any tools.

Next issue I had was that when the engine was put on the stand, 2 of the arms were screwed into the holes in the oil pan. I would suggest mounting the engine to the stand only using bolts in the engine block so you don't have to move them later. I ended up having to get another bolt and nut to bolt up one of the arms to the starter hole, which does not have threads. After that I was able to remove the #1 oil pan.

Current stand setup.

Gap at passenger side rear of #1 oil pan for screw driver.

Sure looks rusty in that water passage, right?

Never hurts to have a helper! Pull your pants up, boy...

Naked.