Builds 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Small update - My ARB front bumper has integrated turn signals. ARB includes these cheesy taps to wire the signals. When I installed the bumper, I didn’t bother to use the taps because I wanted to do something cleaner. ‘Finally got around to it this afternoon.

I spliced the pigtail from the stock turn signal assembly and wired Metri-Pack connectors. Took longer than I expected, but it looks good.

7-A7-DEC99-DE9-E-4203-BB0-E-C625184-AAAE1.jpg


50-A56-C6-D-8-EC3-44-AC-91-CD-0-EC0-EE3028-C3.jpg


64-ABFFD7-9194-47-F9-8-CDA-A09-E6-A15-CC3-C.jpg


Signals work!

4762-B4-C6-0-F02-400-E-8-BC9-64-CD6-A67-EAC1.jpg
I have been needing to do the same thing with mine. How did you tap into the factory harness?
 
I have been needing to do the same thing with mine. How did you tap into the factory harness?
I just cut and spliced in extra leads on the turn signal pigtail using those combo solder/heat shrink connectors.

Summit Racing Self-Solder Splice

Basically, pull the turn signal from the fender. Remove the black insulator tubing so you can see the wires. Trace power and ground wires from turn signal. Cut, strip insulation, add your ARB leads, place bare wires in solder/heat shrink tubes, add heat, viola.

If I ever replace my turn signals (they’re pretty sun-baked) I will probably just make a new sub-harness with extra plugs. So everything would be plug-and-play from the chassis connector to the two turn signal connectors.
 
Last edited:
Apologies Edmond, I meant no offense.

35,632 km is 22,140 miles. That's nothing! A 22k mile Toyota Land Cruiser is barely broken in. It's practically brand new!

But some of the components on the truck indicate that many more miles had been seen. Not due to age or heat, but due to use.

For example, at 22k miles, the factory coolant from Toyota should look brand new. On this truck, it didn't have factory coolant, it had tap water. It would be a great deal of work for anyone to drain the factory coolant and add back tap water. Especially on such a low-mileage truck. And why would anyone do that at 22k miles? That doesn't really make sense.

Also, the radiator fell apart in my hands when I pulled it. The coolant hardlines were rusted. The transmission was leaking from the front seal. The hood release cable was frayed. None of those items would deteriorate so quickly at 22k miles, even in the heat of the Middle East.
9-C6-AA13-C-972-F-452-D-8-CA6-E213-A430602-A.jpg

FB8-B7-FA1-2849-4-EF2-A586-B4-DC6517-FB9-D.jpg

DEE398-CF-8-B75-4-D4-F-BF56-7-E32-EC4-A04-F9.jpg

57343705-D022-4-E32-9-FC0-89835-FCB9-E0-E.jpg


As I mentioned above, I mean no offense. I am VERY pleased with the truck. If I had to do it over, I would buy it again, no questions asked. But I have to go by what I am seeing when I work on the truck. And I could be wrong. Who knows?

Overall I am going to continue to work on and enjoy the truck. I love it!

Thank you, my friend.

All signs point to the fact that this truck has over 100K on the clock. The dead giveaway for me is the missing clutch and brake pedal pads when you received it. Trucks with only 22k miles would have intact pedal pads. That aside, nice truck!
 
I have been working on the bed/frame of the truck, trying to get all of the frozen, broken, or rusted fasteners loose so that I can repair or replace them. It's a lot of tedious work and none of it photographs well.

So here are some pics of the tailgate graphics install.

10098-A90-50-E2-44-B3-BC0-E-FAAF310356-F0.jpg




DB8141-AA-0-AAA-4-F84-801-C-67-BE2-EB246-C4.jpg


A871-B0-F9-4-BB2-4-E14-A14-A-C52-EBA1-E4-E9-B.jpg


E6-D742-A6-8313-47-CF-BA05-6-C85-A2-B76-DB8.jpg
 
Many of you may have never noticed, but the driver's side bed step was missing from the truck when I first purchased it.
BFC26583-1252-4-E7-E-9-B54-FCE4725-FB996.jpg


567-AF96-D-4-D10-4169-9-D3-E-D8-FA94467-E8-F.jpg


Seller was kind enough to provide a replacement bed step (which I had painted when I painted the hood), but it wasn't until I went to install that I realized the steps were different. The replacement step must be for a 79 series, because the brackets were the wrong layout.
0-F8-B85-EB-DE88-4-E54-84-E2-CD84-BD3-E7598.jpg


Rather than try to source another replacement bed step (and have it painted again), I decided to see if I could make mine work. I took it to my local fabricator, and he did a fantastic job adjusting the bracket and preserving the "visible" paint work. I threw some rattle can paint on the new bracket portion and installed yesterday.
B7-F3-CBB6-CD26-4-A73-B900-D753-BD3-B0-E81.jpg


D87-CA9-B4-EA93-4-E2-F-96-E7-9-F5014-D40-C61.jpg


3440-B012-6-BBE-4-D80-B6-F8-340-F4-DA16-F07.jpg


37-F46-B1-C-1984-4-E20-8509-62178912-A3-CD.jpg
 
I was supposed to go to Katemcy Rocks for Land Cruiser Roundup in Mason, Tx. I had planned to spend the whole weekend, but unfortunately, work stuff got in the way and I was only able to stay for about 30 min on Friday evening. We left Austin in the Pickup late Friday afternoon.

CD10-CD86-0-C06-4-FB4-92-D9-8-CD1-A0072-FD1.jpg


I brought my father, who wanted to visit Mason anyway. And I also managed to take ZERO photos while I was at Katemcy. :frown:

The good news is that I finally got to meet the man, the myth, the legend - @orangefj45 - Georg Esterer! I picked an axle up from Georg, and he and his buddies were super-friendly and helpful. Georg was able to check out my Land Cruiser and it was very rewarding to have my work on the Pickup validated by a Cruiser icon.

Also, cool story - My father used to own an import auto parts business in central Texas - Van’s Auto Parts. After visiting with Georg, Dad realized Van’s used to do business with Valley Hybrids. Small world!

Anyway, we loaded the axle, grabbed dinner, and headed back to Austin.

FFEC3-ED0-51-ED-4835-A4-F2-EF5095-F67964.jpg


FJ60 front axle and 9.5” rear 3rd member with 3.7 diff gears. The plan is to retrofit the FJ60 stuff into my 1988 BJ70 axle. I think all I need is a long-side axle shaft.

85677-E21-A4-FC-4651-90-AC-DC84-AA7-CE37-D.jpg


96-A97-D03-305-C-40-DB-92-D3-6-BD2-BC278846.jpg
 
Last edited:
Great to finally meet you and your HZJ75!!!

Maybe we’ll get to do some wheeling together next time.

😎🍻

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
 
Started the A/C install and various wiring projects. Step 1 was to get a distribution block setup going so I could have a single point for all the wiring. I used this spot on the firewall where PO had mounted something with machine screws. Added some stainless M6 rivnuts to cover the old holes and threw some paint on it.




9396738-B-A647-4-BDB-A889-466-D84777454.jpg
 
Also, where is a good source for 12-volt ignition on for switched power? I could always run a relay, but I would prefer to pick a HD source and run direct to the Blue Sea distribution block.

Cigarette Lighter? Alternator?
 
Looking good... Not sure of a good switched power, but you could run a relay off the washer bottle -- If i recall it is ground activated, so always hot... Actually I am surprised that there was not a factory block by the battery with power options.


Yup. Had to deal with that when I shortened the 79 bed for my 75.
Yup, me three.
 
Looking good... Not sure of a good switched power, but you could run a relay off the washer bottle -- If i recall it is ground activated, so always hot... Actually I am surprised that there was not a factory block by the battery with power options.
There may be a fuse box in the engine bay. I have done zero research! :rofl:
 
look for something like this.... bolted to airbox if I recall. If it is not there, look for a big juntion plug, proabably about 6-10 wires going to it with some decent gauge power wires right below where this picture is.

1648146136860.webp
 
There should be a Power Outlet Box in the front right corner of the engine bay, under the cover there will be three fuses and four screw terminals. This would be a great place to pull power.
Power Outlet Location.webp


Power Outlet Diagram.webp
 
267-BB768-0777-44-AB-A566-2-ACD41-D5089-F.jpg


A178-C2-CE-4-F4-D-4-F64-82-E1-69-BE783-AE692.jpg


FECBF24-B-02-ED-4072-B340-D870316-B5-C65.jpg


2-B0-FB5-E2-66-B2-4852-A204-D18-A8-D776-E6-F.jpg


Huge shout out to @ChaserFJ60 for the OEM locker dial blank. He has great customer service, makes awesome parts, and is great to work with. I would highly recommend. Thanks Chase!
 
Last edited:
Well you be installing OEM lockers ?
 
Last edited:
267-BB768-0777-44-AB-A566-2-ACD41-D5089-F.jpg


A178-C2-CE-4-F4-D-4-F64-82-E1-69-BE783-AE692.jpg


FECBF24-B-02-ED-4072-B340-D870316-B5-C65.jpg


2-B0-FB5-E2-66-B2-4852-A204-D18-A8-D776-E6-F.jpg


Huge shout out to @ChaserFJ60 for the OEM locker dial blank. He has great customer service, makes awesome parts, and is great to work with. I would highly recommend. Thanks Chase!
Glad to help! Im glad it fits well having redesigned the part without being able to test fit here at home.

 
Glad to help! Im glad it fits well having redesigned the part without being able to test fit here at home.


What parts are you currently making (or plan to) for the 70 series other than the locker dial blank?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom