Took me a bit but I put mine here. Note I have the Delta shifter and center console so making sure I was under there was a priority .
Builds 1994 BUILD OUT and LS swap! Let's Go! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TLC94LS
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- #142
Wow that looks great.
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- #143
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- #144
I have to go look at mine again. Did you just thread a hole to mount a bracket to the shifter. That looks awesome. I’d rather do that for sure.
I did. The hole was a bit low so I had to grind the bottom of the arm on the left side. Also had to make a lower hole on the arm on the left side as well.
There is a secondary boot that fits on top of the arcade shifter. It’s very tight. I’ll shoot you a pic tomm. But I was able to get the Delta shifter on with no issues.
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- #146
Thanks! Got it installed. It’s not rigged but this is 90% of the battle!
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- #147
Got some questions on how to hook up the Dakota digital boxes. Hope this helps.
I have been commenting on your YT vids. These are great. Looking at how you followed me on the shifter part for the DD box. Just make sure that you can move the shifter through all of the gears and the arm doesn't lock up. I am sure you did, but should anyone else follow this...that geometry is important.
Do you mind sharing the settings you used? Before I put the jumper in I could get the test signal to show 2k. But nothing once started.
Then I jumped it. I got it to move once. But the test signal now bounces.
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- #150
Also try using the different outputs on the actual terminals between hi/norm. I also recommend calling their tech support. I gave them all my info. But they’ll have you check your inputs as well. With nothing connected to the outputs, measure the what your input source is on the terminal. If it is coming from the PCM, it’ll be an AC voltage. VAC. You’ll need to know this value to determine your outputs.
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- #151
Well we are 98% done!! Rinsed her off, headed to muffler shop for an exhaust. Then a fresh set of tires! So close to being done. Small power steering leak from the sector shaft adjustment screw. I think it’s just too loose. Going to tighten it up and jam nut. Hoping it’ll stop. I did rebuild it and put on a new washer.
There is a special sealing washer on that adjusting screw. It will need to be replaced.
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- #153
I did put a new one on when I did the re build. I only had it on finger tight. Guess I said I’ll get to it later a year ago!! She’s all good!
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- #154
Big day!
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- #155
Now I need tire brand recommendations! K02s or New Mickey Thompson Baja AT? Getting 35s keeping stock rims.
Maybe consider running the stock tires on for a little while? They are probably really quiet tires. Might help so you can hear any issues as you test out your swap.
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- #157
Tires that are on it are completely rotted and unsafe. Can not be used. It was in a barn on all flats when I got it. And I’m not buying street tires to replace in a month.
FMC80
SILVER Star
I have 33” KO2s on my cruiser and they are good. Quiet. Good traction. Vanilla. Boring. I wouldn’t do it again though. So I thought. I have KO2s on my F350 that I just bought about a month ago and I wouldn’t do it again. Why? They’re boring and expensive. They take a s*** load of weights to balance. They vibrate at 71mph and I had to get swapped out or road force balanced or, or, or, others have this issue too and others don’t. They are a good tire but I don’t think they’re all that for what people claim. They vanilla and expensive for what they are.
Get yourself the mickeys.
Also, I bought my tires at the height of Covid and the KO2s were the only ones available where I was located. As soon as I moved back stateside, I bought 37” Toyos and won’t look at BFGs again for a while.
Get yourself the mickeys.
Also, I bought my tires at the height of Covid and the KO2s were the only ones available where I was located. As soon as I moved back stateside, I bought 37” Toyos and won’t look at BFGs again for a while.
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- #159
Looking at the Nitro Recon Grapplers. I think they will be good for what I want to do. Having issues finding MT in R16 size.
Are you installing cats?
