1993 FZJ80 Cooling System Overhaul

[Dave 2000]

Contaminated trans oil is not the only downside of the thru rad cooler, but I personally prefer to keep this system if your in a colder environment. In severely hot climates then it adds load to the cooling system, and fitting a stat on the trans cooler lines starts to move outside preventative maintenance.

Unfortunately we cannot rely on design decisions made by Mr T back in the 1980's to keep our 80's reliable.

Automatic transmission overheating is not uncommon in the 80, Toyota even fitted a light to let you know the original design may not be sufficient to keep it cool when the going gets tough.

Similarly the stock engine cooling whilst not quite marginal, does have issues, a non modified temperature gauge will not show problems until it is often much too late.

To this end, I think as individuals we need to look at what we personally do with our vehicles, (and where we do it), is where the decision to modify or not is made.

Regards

Dave

 

[baldilocks]

Contaminated trans oil is not the only downside of the thru rad cooler, but I personally prefer to keep this system if your in a colder environment. In severely hot climates then it adds load to the cooling system, and fitting a stat on the trans cooler lines starts to move outside preventative maintenance.

Unfortunately we cannot rely on design decisions made by Mr T back in the 1980's to keep our 80's reliable.

Automatic transmission overheating is not uncommon in the 80, Toyota even fitted a light to let you know the original design may not be sufficient to keep it cool when the going gets tough.

Similarly the stock engine cooling whilst not quite marginal, does have issues, a non modified temperature gauge will not show problems until it is often much too late.

To this end, I think as individuals we need to look at what we personally do with our vehicles, (and where we do it), is where the decision to modify or not is made.

Regards

Dave

I have never heard or read reports of the 80 series trans running hot. All info I have read indicates quite the opposite and to see my own trans temp gauge above 150-160F is rare and it usually runs 140F.

Any auto trans can get hot which is why they all have a temp warning light circuit.

Running the trans fluid through the engine cooling system isn’t just for quicker trans fluid warm up. This fluid routing helps to adjust the fluid temp to and temperature that is more of a known constant and which the fluid to air cooler is capable of then adjusting to what the engineers wanted. Trans fluid to water cooling is much more rapid and effective than fluid to air.

I don’t really believe that the air to fluid cooler could do the job as a stand alone unit when the trans is being taxed extremely, due to the fact that the torque converter is capable of heating trans fluid to much higher temps than the engine normally runs.

In summation: I believe that routing the trans fluid through the radiator plays an important roll in controlling trans fluid temps at both extremes of the operating range.

@Will Van - it’s not that silicone hoses leak in the traditional sense, it’s that water will actually penetrate the wall of a silicone hose and water (not glycol) content in the system will be reduced. For this reason, fleet owners/operators do not use silicone hoses.

For us, this is probably not a significant issue, I just can’t think of or remember one reason to pay the premium to have silicon hoses.

 

[Dave 2000]

I have never heard or read reports of the 80 series trans running hot. All info I have read indicates quite the opposite and to see my own trans temp gauge above 150-160F is rare and it usually runs 140F.

Any auto trans can get hot which is why they all have a temp warning light circuit.

Running the trans fluid through the engine cooling system isn’t just for quicker trans fluid warm up. This fluid routing helps to adjust the fluid temp to and temperature that is more of a known constant and which the fluid to air cooler is capable of then adjusting to what the engineers wanted. Trans fluid to water cooling is much more rapid and effective than fluid to air.

I don’t really believe that the air to fluid cooler could do the job as a stand alone unit when the trans is being taxed extremely, due to the fact that the torque converter is capable of heating trans fluid to much higher temps than the engine normally runs.

In summation: I believe that routing the trans fluid through the radiator plays an important roll in controlling trans fluid temps at both extremes of the operating range.

@Will Van - it’s not that silicone hoses leak in the traditional sense, it’s that water will actually penetrate the wall of a silicone hose and water (not glycol) content in the system will be reduced. For this reason, fleet owners/operators do not use silicone hoses.

For us, this is probably not a significant issue, I just can’t think of or remember one reason to pay the premium to have silicon hoses.

I agree the trans oil going through the cooler/heater is a great way to regulate the temp but they do overheat.

Going back to my previous post, it depends WHAT your doing and WHERE your using your 80, and guess there are no problems for the typical user.

Regards

Dave

 

[Will Van]

Just curious but why? Other than Texas which is an ok answer but lots of good results with an OEM rad at about 1/3 the cost ..... plus it comes with the foam you were inquiring about as well.

Also your pic heavy posts make you a great candidate for a silver star membership

I have coveted a Ron Davis Racing radiator for a long time. Albeit, in a different application. When I found out they made a drop-in replacement for the 80, I decided to splurge. I definitely don't need an RDR radiator, any more than I need a Land Cruiser (or any other big-boy toys). I bought it because it's an engineering work-of-art, and is hopefully the last radiator I will ever buy. It's total overkill and overbuilt, and that's why I like it.

Hell, just look at some of their other work.

Assuming that I take care of the other cooling system components (water pump, radiator hoses, fan/clutch, shroud, thermostat, etc.), the cooling system should be extremely capable, regardless of the conditions.

I use lots of pics because I think people pay more attention to posts with pictures. I'm trying to get the benefit of some of the experience other members have here, and pics are an easy way to get people looking. Plus, I think threads with pictures are entertaining.

I'm not sure what a silver membership is, but I'm happy to give back to Mud and upgrade!

Contaminated trans oil is not the only downside of the thru rad cooler, but I personally prefer to keep this system if your in a colder environment. In severely hot climates then it adds load to the cooling system, and fitting a stat on the trans cooler lines starts to move outside preventative maintenance.

Unfortunately we cannot rely on design decisions made by Mr T back in the 1980's to keep our 80's reliable.

Automatic transmission overheating is not uncommon in the 80, Toyota even fitted a light to let you know the original design may not be sufficient to keep it cool when the going gets tough.

Similarly the stock engine cooling whilst not quite marginal, does have issues, a non modified temperature gauge will not show problems until it is often much too late.

To this end, I think as individuals we need to look at what we personally do with our vehicles, (and where we do it), is where the decision to modify or not is made.

Regards

Dave

I specifically asked Ron Davis about the additional load on the cooling system from the OEM design (transmission fluid through the radiator) vs. deleting the trans fluid through the radiator and running ATF straight to the liquid to air cooler on the front of the truck (non-OEM design). They said the difference in heat load on the cooling system was negligible.

I think if the thread was, "My plastic radiator end tank cracked. I'm replacing it with a new Toyota OEM radiator. Should I delete the ATF coolant lines to the OEM radiator at the same time?", the answer would be a resounding, "No." That response shouldn't change just because I've purchased a Ron Davis.

It's really interesting, my other project is a 1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo. All of the guys on TT.net really want a state-of-the-art McCulloch radiator ($$$$$$) with a built in engine oil heat exchanger. The touted benefits are that the engine oil comes up to temperature more quickly with the radiator fluid acting as a thermal bath, and the temp of the oil is more stable. No big spikes or drops in temp due weather conditions. Because there is so much radiator fluid volume, it would take a massive amount of heat energy to change either the oil temp or the water temp. Potential contamination and heat load was just a calculated risk for an overall greater benefit at the track.

Fast-forward to Mud, and guys are suggesting to delete the trans fluid in the radiator, because it might get contaminated or place too much heat load on the radiator. They're deleting the Toyota technology that the Nissan guys are paying a premium for. Hahaha!

Overall I think the ATF fluid through the radiator is a good idea. It brings the trans fluid up to temp more quickly, and keeps the temp more stable. Plus, that's the way Toyota designed it, and even if it's old technology, it seems to work well. I'm going to add a water temp gauge, drive the truck, and go from there.

I have never heard or read reports of the 80 series trans running hot. All info I have read indicates quite the opposite and to see my own trans temp gauge above 150-160F is rare and it usually runs 140F.

Any auto trans can get hot which is why they all have a temp warning light circuit.

Running the trans fluid through the engine cooling system isn’t just for quicker trans fluid warm up. This fluid routing helps to adjust the fluid temp to and temperature that is more of a known constant and which the fluid to air cooler is capable of then adjusting to what the engineers wanted. Trans fluid to water cooling is much more rapid and effective than fluid to air.

I don’t really believe that the air to fluid cooler could do the job as a stand alone unit when the trans is being taxed extremely, due to the fact that the torque converter is capable of heating trans fluid to much higher temps than the engine normally runs.

In summation: I believe that routing the trans fluid through the radiator plays an important roll in controlling trans fluid temps at both extremes of the operating range.

@Will Van - it’s not that silicone hoses leak in the traditional sense, it’s that water will actually penetrate the wall of a silicone hose and water (not glycol) content in the system will be reduced. For this reason, fleet owners/operators do not use silicone hoses.

For us, this is probably not a significant issue, I just can’t think of or remember one reason to pay the premium to have silicon hoses.

I agree, I'm keeping the trans plumbing through the radiator.

I had silicone hoses on my 300ZX. The radiator hoses would never weep, but I could just never get them to seal properly at the clamps. I had forgotten about it until you warned against using them. I've never seen them weep before. Either way, I'm using OEM rubber.

I agree the trans oil going through the cooler/heater is a great way to regulate the temp but they do overheat.

Going back to my previous post, it depends WHAT your doing and WHERE your using your 80, and guess there are no problems for the typical user.

Regards

Dave

What overheats? The transmission fluid or the water temp?

I plan to use the truck as my Sunday driver for day trips around Central Texas. I have a place on the lake that has a very serious trail. My 4WD Tacoma won't make it.

I also plan to drive it across the country and perhaps tow a trailer - Cruise Moab, FJ Summit in Ouray, Grand Teton NP, Big Sur, Grand Canyon, etc. The truck will see some 4WD time for sure. But probably nothing more serious than a 5 or 6. I don't want to tear it up or damage the bodywork.

Thanks for all of the help guys!!!

 

[offroadvegan]

I saw an HPS silicone hose set on Amazon. The feedback earlier in this thread was to stick with OEM rubber because the aftermarket silicone kits tend to leak.

How has your experience been with the kit? Any leaks?

So far, so good! Only been about 1k miles on the rebuild.

 

[Dave 2000]

I notice the comment "that's the way Toyota designed it" perhaps more than once? Toyota specced plastic header tanks, the metal used in the BEB's used in the diesel, a fan clutch that needs modifying, probably the crappiest handbrake I have ever encountered on a large vehicle ever ....and....and...and....I am the first to defend the 80, they are brilliant but, they do have weaknesses, like it or not.

So if there is a plan to use, a modified fan clutch, modified radiator and so forth then great I think paying out the extra may be worth the coin.

My opinion to not run the trans cooler pipes through the radiator if possible, is based on the amount of cross contaminated gearboxes that come through my business due to failed internal coolers, not just 80's, Jeep Cherokee's seem to have issues with the stock trans cooler? I have customers that can be on a hot beach working their cars hard, a couple of hours later they are up mountains covered in snow, so the need for some temperature regulation is needed, it is always a compromise unless an external cooler with a transmission thermostat is used.

A fact is that if you work your vehicle hard then temperatures both engine and transmission start to climb, so everything has to work together to keep the heat under control. If heat load from transmission to cooling system is not significant then why use a cooler in the first place? Pretty much even the most basic automatic uses the radiator internal cooler, so they must work if......and only if, the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff.

The 80 is a big heavy machine before the armour, RTT, bigger wheel and tyre combos, and now camping supplies are added, the 80 does not have an abundance of surplus power so the motor will be working hard.

As I have said a number of times, if and how you modify your 80 (or any other vehicle for that matter), depends entirely on usage YMMV.

Regards

Dave

 

[baldilocks]

I agree the trans oil going through the cooler/heater is a great way to regulate the temp but they do overheat.

Going back to my previous post, it depends WHAT your doing and WHERE your using your 80, and guess there are no problems for the typical user.

Regards

Dave

I notice the comment "that's the way Toyota designed it" perhaps more than once? Toyota specced plastic header tanks, the metal used in the BEB's used in the diesel, a fan clutch that needs modifying, probably the crappiest handbrake I have ever encountered on a large vehicle ever ....and....and...and....I am the first to defend the 80, they are brilliant but, they do have weaknesses, like it or not.

So if there is a plan to use, a modified fan clutch, modified radiator and so forth then great I think paying out the extra may be worth the coin.

My opinion to not run the trans cooler pipes through the radiator if possible, is based on the amount of cross contaminated gearboxes that come through my business due to failed internal coolers, not just 80's, Jeep Cherokee's seem to have issues with the stock trans cooler? I have customers that can be on a hot beach working their cars hard, a couple of hours later they are up mountains covered in snow, so the need for some temperature regulation is needed, it is always a compromise unless an external cooler with a transmission thermostat is used.

A fact is that if you work your vehicle hard then temperatures both engine and transmission start to climb, so everything has to work together to keep the heat under control. If heat load from transmission to cooling system is not significant then why use a cooler in the first place? Pretty much even the most basic automatic uses the radiator internal cooler, so they must work if......and only if, the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff.

The 80 is a big heavy machine before the armour, RTT, bigger wheel and tyre combos, and now camping supplies are added, the 80 does not have an abundance of surplus power so the motor will be working hard.

As I have said a number of times, if and how you modify your 80 (or any other vehicle for that matter), depends entirely on usage YMMV.

Regards

Dave

This is very interesting. My Dodge/Cummins also runs the trans fluid directly from the converter into a small, dedicated water cooler/warmer before the fluid proceeds on to the fluid to air cooler up front which does have a thermostat on it.

I can’t think of a vehicle whose power train I have worked harder nor have I owned a vehicle that was designed with harder work in mind yet, the trans fluid runs through its own water cooler directly off the converter.

Indeed, this will increase load on the engine cooling system but this is the best way to warm cold fluid up more quickly and the best way to drop HOT fluid from the convert down quickly to a temp that the less efficient fluid to air cooler can manage.

I would like to see this waterless cooling system set up on an 80 in real world use. How large must the cooling unit be?

 

[Dave 2000]

I think the dual system such as your Dodge with a thermostat gives the best of both worlds, there are quite a afewftermarket trans coolers out there, the ability to hold a large volume of oil, and be placed in a position as to not add to engine heat is their advantage .

Regards

Dave

 

[Red Merle]

@Will Van, I assume this is all in preparation for your upcoming diesel swap, right? Or have you come around to the 1FZ-FE?

So as for this discussion of internal vs. external trans coolers, how much plumbing and wiring needs to take place if you decide to split the system? I looked into this idea to help a buddy with his 4Runner to avoid the "pink milkshake" problem that a lot of people have experienced and I had a buddy ruin a perfectly good Tundra when his did the same thing. It seems like as long as all the stock type components work properly, there really isn't much of an advantage to splitting the system, especially if you are a good enough mechanic to do it. I can use the FSM to replace anything on the 80 and I already have replaced most of it. What is the likelihood of a a well maintained cooling system randomly bursting internally in the radiator on an otherwise good running truck?

 

[Will Van]

@Will Van, I assume this is all in preparation for your upcoming diesel swap, right? Or have you come around to the 1FZ-FE?

Yeah, I'm not doing a diesel swap anytime soon. I paid a premium for a 140k miles truck. It doesn't make any sense to pull the engine and throw away all that value of a relatively low mile Cruiser.

So as for this discussion of internal vs. external trans coolers, how much plumbing and wiring needs to take place if you decide to split the system? I looked into this idea to help a buddy with his 4Runner to avoid the "pink milkshake" problem that a lot of people have experienced and I had a buddy ruin a perfectly good Tundra when his did the same thing. It seems like as long as all the stock type components work properly, there really isn't much of an advantage to splitting the system, especially if you are a good enough mechanic to do it. I can use the FSM to replace anything on the 80 and I already have replaced most of it. What is the likelihood of a a well maintained cooling system randomly bursting internally in the radiator on an otherwise good running truck?

Agreed. I'm not sure how we got so sidetracked on deleting the ATF lines in the radiator. I'm just trying to do some basic maintenance and install an aftermarket radiator. These guys are talking about deleting entire temperature control systems.

 

[baldilocks]

Yeah, I'm not doing a diesel swap anytime soon. I paid a premium for a 140k miles truck. It doesn't make any sense to pull the engine and throw away all that value of a relatively low mile Cruiser.



Agreed. I'm not sure how we got so sidetracked on deleting the ATF lines in the radiator. I'm just trying to do some basic maintenance and install an aftermarket radiator. These guys are talking about deleting entire temperature control systems.

Unless your engine was neglected or abused in the past, you will be waiting a very long time to do a diesel swap if wearing out the 1fz has to happen first. You found a young one.
That radiator is much more beautiful than the CSF I chose to install. What's the price tag on that beauty?

 

[RFB]

sw

I am putting together a parts-list for my eventual cooling system maintenance/overhaul. I realize there is always some discretion on the best route for maintaining the cooling system, so I'm not really trying to start a debate or argument. Perhaps on some of the parts you might choose an alternate solution, but overall the plan is sound and the system will work. It's also a place to consolidate some of the various threads on the cooling system.


Suggestions and part numbers are welcome!

• Radiator (Toyota OEM or Ron Davis Racing)
• Water Pump (Toyota OEM PN:16100-69325)
• LandTank Modified Fan Clutch (80 Series 1FZ-FE Modified OEM Toyota Blue Fan Clutch)
• Toyota Fan Blade (PN: 16361-66020)
• Toyota Thermostat (Toyota PN: 90916-03117)
• Toyota Thermostat O-Ring (Toyota OEM PN: 16346-66020)
• Toyota Radiator Cap (Toyota OEM PN: 16401-15210)
• Toyota Upper Hose (Toyota OEM PN: 16571-66030)
• Toyota Lower Hose (Toyota OEM PN: 16573-66010 and 16572-66021)
• Retain OEM Toyota Fan Shroud (Toyota OEM PN: 16711-66031)
• Breeze Clamps
• Hi-Temp Foam Seal (Suggestions welcome here)
• Toyota Red Coolant (Toyota OEM PN: ???)
• Grounding kit (???)
• Aftermarket water temp gauge
• OEM Heater Control Valve (Toyota OEM PN: 87240-60140)

Helpful Links:

• Blue fan clutch mod
• Dual Gauge Pod - Install
• Koso slim water temp gauge install
• Heater pipe delete or not?
• Cooling System Overhaul Pieces and Parts?
• 93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification

Thanks for the help!!!

Edit: Thread is a work in progress. I'll continue to update PNs, links, and pics.

sweet list I literally just did ALL of these, in my opinion its worth it.

 

[Will Van]

Unless your engine was neglected or abused in the past, you will be waiting a very long time to do a diesel swap if wearing out the 1fz has to happen first. You found a young one.

Thanks! Plus it has the A442F transmission. I'm just going to drive it and enjoy it (and stop worrying about a diesel swap for the time being).

That radiator is much more beautiful than the CSF I chose to install. What's the price tag on that beauty?

You know what they say: "If you have to ask..." Haha!

It's north of $1k. But if you want an exact quote, call Ron Davis. They're really helpful and answered all of my questions. There are certainly cheaper options out there for the more budget-conscious enthusiast, but IMHO it's worth the premium. I'll post more pics when I receive it from Ron Davis.

sweet list I literally just did ALL of these, in my opinion its worth it.

Thanks! I have a few other maintenance items I need to tackle, but then I'll dive into the coolant system!

 

[Red Merle]

I do lose sleep over the radiator that my PO installed. I might need to upgrade. I am going to be doing a bunch of stuff with the AC system this spring and I will have most of it off already. I am going with the Denso condenser, but I could rig up fans at that time if need be, but what it really seems to come down to is that as long as the stuff if working right and you are swapping the fluids and checking them, you are going to notice an issue before it becomes a death rattle. I consider any of that type of work as "going off the reservation" or otherwise following rabbits that don't know where they are going down a hole. If you stay with a stock type configuration, the manual is useful. The more you change, the more you have to rely on your own skills as an engineer. I need the book, but I am just a common man. Somebody smarter than me could probably make money fixing these trucks if enough of them were still around.

 

[Will Van]

I consider any of that type of work as "going off the reservation"

Haha! Well said!!!

 

[Red Merle]

Haha! Well said!!!

I would live on a Toyota reservation if that is what it would come down to. I could imagine all of us trundling up our rigs and just taking over operations for at least the first week or so. After that, I would probably get hustled out of my truck and somebody else would use it as a tank for a while. He would probably lose interest in it though and I would go drag it back to make it functional again.

Lots of old Previas and 4WD Vans and station wagons with well thought out interiors and coolers. Once in a while jump in a Camry or a Corolla just to remember your roots.

I wonder what sort of mini navy we would need to protect parts shipments from Japan without rising a concern? I bet there is a way to thread the needle on that.

 

[jaymar]

Thanks! Plus it has the A442F transmission. I'm just going to drive it and enjoy it (and stop worrying about a diesel swap for the time being).



You know what they say: "If you have to ask..." Haha!

It's north of $1k. But if you want an exact quote, call Ron Davis. They're really helpful and answered all of my questions. There are certainly cheaper options out there for the more budget-conscious enthusiast, but IMHO it's worth the premium. I'll post more pics when I receive it from Ron Davis.


Thanks! I have a few other maintenance items I need to tackle, but then I'll dive into the coolant system!

I've been working a very similar list to yours--RD radiator included--and wonder if you've done the work yet, or encountered any issues during install or since? Also what you did about metal compatibility...

My list (so far) is here:

Front Main Seal While-I'm-In-There - REVISED with P/Ns...

 

[jaymar]

sw

sweet list I literally just did ALL of these, in my opinion its worth it.

I've been working a very similar list to this--RD radiator included--and wonder whether you encountered any issues during install or since? Also what you did about metal compatibility...

My list (so far) is here:

Front Main Seal While-I'm-In-There - REVISED with P/Ns...

 

[Will Van]

I've been working a very similar list to this--RD radiator included--and wonder whether you encountered any issues during install or since? Also what you did about metal compatibility...

My list (so far) is here:

Front Main Seal While-I'm-In-There - REVISED with P/Ns...

I apologize, I should have updated this thread sooner. There are a few items that need to be addressed with the Ron Davis radiator.

First, there are no issues with metal compatibility. I can't recall if it was discussed previously in the thread, but I assume you're talking about electrolysis between the aluminum radiator and the brass fittings for the transmission cooler lines?

For other reasons that I'll get into below, this isn't an issue. But most importantly, electrolysis occurs between dissimilar metals bathed in coolant. The OEM female brass fittings and male aluminum fittings for the transmission lines are transporting ATF. Coolant never touches the dissimilar fittings, so electrolysis can't occur. They're literally bathed in oil and won't rust. All other areas of the radiator are connected by rubber radiator hoses or rubber isolators. So it's a non-issue.

However, there were other issues with the Ron Davis radiator. I ultimately had to send my first radiator back to RD and get a replacement. This was at no expense to me and RD was fantastic to work with. Overall, I think I got a better-designed product because of it and I am very happy with the results. I'll outline the modifications below:

1. JIS Transmission Line Fittings: The OEM Toyota radiator uses Japanese JIS fittings for the OEM brass transmission cooler fittings. JIS fittings are pretty standard for Japanese industrial equipment, but are unusual for USA-built stuff. When RD sent me my initial radiator, these fittings were incorrect. When I first installed it, ATF leaked everywhere and I could not get the OEM brass trans lines to tighten on the RD radiator or seal. This is what initially led me to seek a replacement radiator from RD, and the other modifications below were just design refinements that we did along the way.

Rather than try to source the correct male JIS fittings for the RD radiator, I decided to convert the whole setup to -6AN fittings. This worked flawlessly. When I sent my 1st RD radiator back, I had them weld male -6AN fittings onto the transmission cooler instead of the JIS fittings.

Then I installed Fragola push lock fittings for the Toyota OEM rubber transmission lines.

DS = Fragola 206006-BL

PS = Fragola 200106-BL

The OEM Toyota rubber transmission lines work great with the Fragola push-lock fittings and haven't leaked a drop. Since the Fragola fittings are aluminum, this eliminates any dissimilar metal contact on the radiator.

2. Fan Shroud Tabs: I didn't think the fan shroud tabs on the first radiator engaged enough of the plastic Toyota shroud, so I had them extend them while they were fabricating the new radiator. This worked really well but unfortunately I don't have any "after" photos.

3. Channel Width at Lower Isolators: It may have been unique to my truck, but the 1st radiator was slightly too wide on the "cold air" side to fit into the chassis at the lower mounts. Before I realized the fittings were incorrect, I notched the channel on my 1st radiator to get it to seat properly.

Since we were doing a second version to correct the trans fittings anyway, I had RD adjust the channel dimensions at the same time. This may be unique to my truck, because I think at some point my 80 had been "kissed" in a front-end collision.

Either way I would measure the chassis width at the lower brackets to confirm the dimensions.

I don't know if RD is making all of the adjustments above to his "off the shelf" 80 series radiators moving forward. I'm happy to contact RD and get a "build number" so you can just request my updated design. I'll post the reference number as soon as I have it.

Since RD install, my coolant temps have stayed rock-solid based on my aftermarket digital temp gauge. This upcoming Texas summer will be the real test though. Like I said, I am very pleased with the final outcome of the RD radiator. I will probably purchase another RD radiator for my 6BT/NV4500 build.

Hope this helps!

 

[jaymar]

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the info and pix! Got mine before yours, actually; been sitting in garage waiting on me to get tired of bleeding Amsoil and do the main seal. Will have to haul it out and measure. Mine's going into a '95 FZJ, presumably the same spacing on everything? I referenced Joey's when I had them build it, and he's a '96 I think. PROBABLY identical to his.

Q: Do we need the foam, and if so what temp does it need to withstand without melting? UPDATE: I see Joey used a/c weatherstripping, so I guess temp isn't much of an issue...

A/C Weatherstripping around RD radiator

Anything to note on Ron Davis FZJ80 fittings or fitment or misc @NLXTACY ?