Front Main Seal While-I'm-In-There REVISED with P/Ns... (1 Viewer)

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
So, 1995 rig, not much done by PO to judge from all-original hoses (replaced what I could reach), cracked spindle (replaced), blown wheel bearings (replaced w/seals). Already did plugs/wires/dizzy cap/rotor/o-ring/seals, VC gasket, PCV valve & grommet, HCV.

Going to replace front main seal b/c of oil leak, and replace radiator just because (it's been there since 2006 I think) What else should I be doing while I'm in there?

Adding to list as new answers come in so this can serve as future reference source. @Mad4Rnr got me started on the P/Ns...

TO-DO LIST:

Front main seal (90311-52022 / Seal Type T Oil)
Radiator (Ron Davis / built to order)
Water pump (16100-69325 / Water Pump Assembly) [Using AISIN part from Rock Auto]
Thermostat (90916-03117 / Thermostat)
Any newly-reachable hoses (unknown at this point)
Oil pump cover o-ring (15188-66020 / Gasket)
Oil pump cover screws (15183-66020 x7 / Screw)
-Replace cover screws with hex-heads? (Need spec.
More likely to over-tighten and crack housing?)
Blue fan clutch (BFC-1 / Wits' End P/N)
Fan clutch hardware (BFC-2 / Wits' End P/N)
Fan (16361-66020 / Fan blade) [insurance against old one grenading into radiator]
Install supercharger pulley (to keep my options open)?
Idler pulley/bearing
A/C idler pulley/bearing
New tranny cooler lines
New power steering lines
New coolant lines
New belts
Panhard bushings (DS eaten by leaking oil; both original)
Fuel filter?

SPECIAL TOOLS
3/4" breaker bar
30mm socket
Rope or wire-core plastic line for breaker bar tie-down
2" PVC coupling to press main seal into place (per TexasKnowHow)
Impact wrench for oil pump cover screws (if can't get off with JIS or #3 bit and socket wrench or breaker bar; try heating screws up with torch if need be)
Screw extractor kit in case screws break off
305 ft-lb torque wrench or equivalent for crank pulley bolt


...
A/C not working; smelled PAG oil for a while. Anything on that easier to do with this other stuff out of the way?
...
What else should I be looking at?
 
Last edited:

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
...while I'm in there?

Water pump and thermostat > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Any newly-reachable hoses > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Oil pump cover o-ring > YES!!!
Blue fan clutch > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Install supercharger pulley (to keep my options open) > Really? While you're in there?
Fan blades? (I'm told they eventually crack and grenade?) > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Fuel filter? > No - not nearby.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
86
Location
Penngrove, CA
Oil & Water Pump
15188-66020 Gasket, Oil Pump
1​
15183-66020 SCREW
7​
15134-17010 Gasket, Oil Pump Relief Valve
1​
16100-69325 Pump Assy, Engine Water
1​
16271-66020 Gasket, Water Pump
1​
16210-66020 Fan Clutch (Blue)
1​
90311-52022 Seal, Oil (For Timing Chain Or Belt Cover)
1​
90916-02353Belt, V(For Fan & Alternator)
1​
99332-60910 Belt, V (Cooler Compressor To Crankshaft Pulley), NO.1 L=910
1​
 

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
...while I'm in there?

Water pump and thermostat > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Any newly-reachable hoses > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Oil pump cover o-ring > YES!!!
Blue fan clutch > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Install supercharger pulley (to keep my options open) > Really? While you're in there?
Fan blades? (I'm told they eventually crack and grenade?) > Can wait until needed. Easy access.
Fuel filter? > No - not nearby.
Appreciate the comments. The wait-until-needed approach was taken by the PO, though, and I'm paying the price. Accordingly, I've resolved to do-before-needed going forward. :) If it ain't broke, fix it I say. Long trip planned.
 
Last edited:

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
Oil & Water Pump
15188-66020Gasket, Oil Pump
1​
15183-66020SCREW
7​
15134-17010Gasket, Oil Pump Relief Valve
1​
16100-69325Pump Assy, Engine Water
1​
16271-66020Gasket, Water Pump
1​
16210-66020Fan Clutch (Blue)
1​
90311-52022Seal, Oil (For Timing Chain Or Belt Cover)
1​
90916-02353Belt, V(For Fan & Alternator)
1​
99332-60910Belt, V (Cooler Compressor To Crankshaft Pulley), NO.1 L=910
1​
P/N's too, perfect. Already replaced the belts; added to list. Anything else...?
 
Last edited:

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
In case you hadn't seen this already.
Need 3/4" breaker bar and 30mm socket to remove harmonic damper / main pulley, starter bump technique.
300lb torque wrench to re-install, but who has one of those?
Here's one path, I used. a-low-cost-300-ft-lb-torque-wrench-diy-shop-built
Or - just reef on it, as someone said. :hillbilly:
tap-tap-tap (correct #, tight fit!) phillips bit, then electric impact to remove oil pump cover screws.
 

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
In case you hadn't seen this already.
Need 3/4" breaker bar and 30mm socket to remove harmonic damper / main pulley, starter bump technique.
300lb torque wrench to re-install, but who has one of those?
Here's one path, I used. a-low-cost-300-ft-lb-torque-wrench-diy-shop-built
Or - just reef on it, as someone said. :hillbilly:
tap-tap-tap (correct #, tight fit!) phillips bit, then electric impact to remove oil pump cover screws.
Thanks! Yeah, I seem to remember 305 lbs. Someone who presumably knows what they're doing once told me that sometimes the bolt head snaps off when using the engine to loosen the bolt. Anyone here seen that--or care to guess the odds on it?
 
Last edited:

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
First time I've ever heard of snapping that big ass bolt head by any means.
But I read over and over here of using that method. Many recommended it.
Worked beautifully for me. Quick starter bump. Loose in an instant.
Just the one time, my only experience.
Lash breaker bar to bottom of passenger side frame.
Some have snapped 1/2" breaker bars, however.
> Do disable ignition :eek:
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
3,739
Location
Nahant Ma.
Ive done it also with no issues but for the nervous folk @OTRAMM does sell a tool he crafted that allows one to remove crankshaft bolt without the use of the starter.
 

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
In case you hadn't seen this already.
Need 3/4" breaker bar and 30mm socket to remove harmonic damper / main pulley, starter bump technique.
300lb torque wrench to re-install, but who has one of those?
Here's one path, I used. a-low-cost-300-ft-lb-torque-wrench-diy-shop-built
Or - just reef on it, as someone said. :hillbilly:
tap-tap-tap (correct #, tight fit!) phillips bit, then electric impact to remove oil pump cover screws.
Quite a solution there! I'd be afraid of throwing the torque wrench calibration out of whack. Q: Am I REALLY going to need an impact wrench for the oil pump cover screws, even when I have a straight shot at them with the radiator out? Daily driver, so I want no surprises along the way...
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
10,543
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
Quite a solution there! I'd be afraid of throwing the torque wrench calibration out of whack. Q: Am I REALLY going to need an impact wrench for the oil pump cover screws, even when I have a straight shot at them with the radiator out? Daily driver, so I want no surprises along the way...

I tried a regular screwdriver, then a hammer-assisted screwdriver, all to no avail. Then I went and bought a Craftsman impact screwdriver (electric screw gun kind of thing) an it zipped them out in a heartbeat. It was well worth the $65 I paid for the tool as saved in time and frustration.

And, even though you THINK you have a straight shot with the radiator out, it's not.

I also chose to change my transmission cooler hoses and my PS hoses and the paperclip.
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
335
Location
Durango, CO
Regarding the crank pulley bolt removal, I prefer using a 3/4" breaker bar with a 14mm (?) impact socket on a flywheel bolt. That's how you're going to torque it back on, so why not remove it that way? Just my opinion...

An impact driver is definitely the best way to remove the oil pump cover screws. Even following all of the recommended prep (clean out the phillips heads, use penetrating oil, use a JIS bit, tap on the bit before loosening, etc), I still stripped one screw. Fortunately the easy-out was, for once, easy. I upgraded to hex screws but I can't remember where I sourced them.

x2 on replacing the hoses Bilt4me just mentioned.
 

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
Regarding the crank pulley bolt removal, I prefer using a 3/4" breaker bar with a 14mm (?) impact socket on a flywheel bolt. That's how you're going to torque it back on, so why not remove it that way? Just my opinion...

Makes good sense to me, but the starter bump method does work nicely too. Either way.
Good to point out the crank turn stopper - 14mm (?) impact socket on a flywheel bolt.

Don't be nervous about effecting your 1/2" torque wrench calibration.
The lever cannot physically do that.
It simply multiplies whatever your torque wrench is already doing, by the lever's mechanical advantage factor.
For instance, if it is clicking (calibrated) at 5% low, on 150ft-lb scale, then the lever multiplied result will also be 5% low, but on an expanded scale.
Think about the torque that is happening along any lever.
It is zero at your hand. No torque, only linear force. The handle is not twisting out of your hand is it?
Torque at the center of rotation is full. All torque, zero linear force.
Everywhere along the lever, it's a combination of the 2 forces, smoothly varying (inversely to each other) from one end to the other.
So, the 1/2" shaft on your torque wrench is sensing and reaction to that partial torque at that mid-point.
It sees, like 110ft-lbs (whatever you set it to click at, assuming you stop pulling there), NOT 304ft-lbs.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
86
Location
Penngrove, CA
P/N's too, perfect. Already replaced the belts; added to list. Anything else...?

Maybe the idler pully and A/C idler pully bearing, thermostat maybe? The list I posted is what I determined to make sence for replacment on my rig based on its condition and milage. That list of parts is about a $350 spend and you can ceratinly omit the fan clutch and water pump but my philosophy is if I have to loosen a bolt or nut on a part, and it doesn't cost all that much relative to my labor, I'm going to replace it...
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
510
Location
Richmond, VA
When I did my crank seal I used the starter bump method to get it off then torqued with my 250 LB torque wrench (a lot more readily available/cheaper) then gave it all I had with a breaker bar. Been good for like 15K miles so far. My oil pump seal replacement was a cluster F. I stripped like 3 screws even with a good fitting bit and impact (I think someone had tried to get it off before). Then my drill walked drilling out the screw and I had to put a helicoil in. Replaced the screws with allen head screws I found at Ace Hardware (Fastenal said I should tap them for 1/4" because they couldn't get the right metric size :rolleyes:).

While you're there clean as much as you can.. You will appreciate it in the future. Then you can observe for other leaks. I had to replace my transmission cooler hoses shortly after because they were leaking.
 

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
Makes good sense to me, but the starter bump method does work nicely too. Either way.
Good to point out the crank turn stopper - 14mm (?) impact socket on a flywheel bolt.

Don't be nervous about effecting your 1/2" torque wrench calibration.
The lever cannot physically do that.
It simply multiplies whatever your torque wrench is already doing, by the lever's mechanical advantage factor.
For instance, if it is clicking (calibrated) at 5% low, on 150ft-lb scale, then the lever multiplied result will also be 5% low, but on an expanded scale.
Think about the torque that is happening along any lever.
It is zero at your hand. No torque, only linear force. The handle is not twisting out of your hand is it?
Torque at the center of rotation is full. All torque, zero linear force.
Everywhere along the lever, it's a combination of the 2 forces, smoothly varying (inversely to each other) from one end to the other.
So, the 1/2" shaft on your torque wrench is sensing and reaction to that partial torque at that mid-point.
It sees, like 110ft-lbs (whatever you set it to click at, assuming you stop pulling there), NOT 304ft-lbs.
Sooo...this is why you don’t just put a pipe on the handle?
 

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
Sooo...this is why you don’t just put a pipe on the handle?
Not sure what you mean?
- Meaning just put a pipe on the handle of the 3/4" breaker bar? Fine. That's the "just reef on it" method. Torque-shmorque, good enough. :hillbilly:
- Meaning just put a pipe on the handle of your 150ft-lb torque wrench? Would still click at the same 110ft-lb, or whatever, per setting.
Or you would break the damn thing! Yeah, that's why.
 

jaymar

SILVER Star
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
1,379
Location
SoCal
I tried a regular screwdriver, then a hammer-assisted screwdriver, all to no avail. Then I went and bought a Craftsman impact screwdriver (electric screw gun kind of thing) an it zipped them out in a heartbeat. It was well worth the $65 I paid for the tool as saved in time and frustration.

And, even though you THINK you have a straight shot with the radiator out, it's not.

I also chose to change my transmission cooler hoses and my PS hoses and the paperclip.
Will I have room for a standard 3/8 battery-powered impact wrench, or does it have to be right-angle?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
10,543
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
Will I have room for a standard 3/8 battery-powered impact wrench, or does it have to be right-angle?
You'll have room for the standard 3/8" impact wrench. I used a Craftsman impact Driver C3 Liion 3 speed impact driver kit.

I twisted off (2) 1/2" breaker bars (Craftsman) trying to get the HB bolt loose on mine. The starter bump method didn't work at all. I had to borrow a 3/4" drive breaker bar and install a 3 ft pipe on it to break the bolt loose. I'm not a small guy, so getting there with the bar and breaker wasn't too bad for me. Putting it back together I had a 300 LB torque wrench that was 60" long to tighten it.

You can buy a 300 lb-ft TW from Harbor Freight for about $65. Yes, you CAN place a pipe on the handle of that one to get it that tight. Because that one is only about 24" long, so it's a tough pull (152 LB pull to get there)
 

Bambusiero

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
713
Location
Chandler, AZ
1961922


This sort of thing - multi-purpose 1/4" hex impact driver.
Fits in there with radiator in place.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom