Starting to look at replacing mine so following with interest
Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJBen
- Start date
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FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #682
They feel pretty good to me so far. If anything the rear might be a little too soft, when really loaded but that’s just a feeling. I could be wrong on that and haven’t fully loaded it so who knows.
I really wanted to do the Ironman foam cell pros. Rebuildable, but they are $250 each.
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #683
A few little easy cheap low hanging fruit before the next upcoming large project.
My old cover was cracked. These are cheap.
Missing a screw
I also replaced the brass pin as my horn had stopped working, and it was worn down. That was a little bit of a pain to put the C-clip on.
84312-32010
Not my picture, but you get the idea...
My old cover was cracked. These are cheap.
Missing a screw
I also replaced the brass pin as my horn had stopped working, and it was worn down. That was a little bit of a pain to put the C-clip on.
84312-32010
Not my picture, but you get the idea...
WarDamnEagle
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I bought all new dash screws when I bought that same radio surround. I think there's 20 of them.
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #687
Aaaand, another problem/interesting thing happening that has never happened before.
Drove to another office out on the highway. Mashed down on it pretty good. Boost fine til about 13psi, then overboost list comes on and boost instantly drops to zero power gone for like 5 seconds, then back to normal. First time I had that aww s*** moment like what just happened. The second time I didn't even have to stop, it just started working again. Wow, driving a non-turbo 3B is bad
This happened twice. Now I do have a dawes device, and part of me is thinking I may have a leak or something going on with that device. The only change has been the snorkel topper...
as far as I know, I do not believe that light actually cuts/turns off anything?
I believe that wastegate line I have has a leak that is only showing up under higher boost. Going to redo the line and see if that stops this issue.
Drove to another office out on the highway. Mashed down on it pretty good. Boost fine til about 13psi, then overboost list comes on and boost instantly drops to zero power gone for like 5 seconds, then back to normal. First time I had that aww s*** moment like what just happened. The second time I didn't even have to stop, it just started working again. Wow, driving a non-turbo 3B is bad
This happened twice. Now I do have a dawes device, and part of me is thinking I may have a leak or something going on with that device. The only change has been the snorkel topper...
as far as I know, I do not believe that light actually cuts/turns off anything?
I believe that wastegate line I have has a leak that is only showing up under higher boost. Going to redo the line and see if that stops this issue.
Maybe the DIY adjuster has a leak somewhere above that range. I like the punk rock ethos but I splurged on a Turbosmart one because R&D. Not sure what kind of pressure rating the brass stuff at the hardware store has. Could also be a leak in the lines? Recent cold weather....Aaaand, another problem/interesting thing happening that has never happened before.
Drove to another office out on the highway. Mashed down on it pretty good. Boost fine til about 13psi, then overboost list comes on and boost instantly drops to zero power gone for like 5 seconds, then back to normal. First time I had that aww s*** moment like what just happened. The second time I didn't even have to stop, it just started working again. Wow, driving a non-turbo 3B is bad
This happened twice. Now I do have a dawes device, and part of me is thinking I may have a leak or something going on with that device. The only change has been the snorkel topper...
as far as I know, I do not believe that light actually cuts/turns off anything?
I believe that wastegate line I have has a leak that is only showing up under higher boost. Going to redo the line and see if that stops this issue.
Couldn't say about the turbo lights, my 73 chassis doesn't have that but maybe the 71's/74's came with some sort of overboost protection?
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #689
I'm able to replicate this pretty easy, I've only done it 3 times, I don't want to mess with anything. Again, the only thing thats changed is the snorkel topper, which is weird.
I did find this separation/buldge on the 1 intake hose, and it appears my hose clamp on the right side will not super tighten up.
Probably should just replace both boots, and new hoses. I do find it interesting this only happened after the snorkel top change.
I believe they are 2" and 2.5" if I remember correctly. Now to go black or some other bling color...
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Warning lights only. The green one goes on at ~2 PSI and the orange one at ~15.5 PSI.
I have my Lower Shores compensator set up to just below 15.
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FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #692
New theory time that I think makes sense.
All this loss of power on ~14psi boost usually means boost leak, however I don't think it's a boost leak anymore.
I think my intake hose is collapsing. Part 17884. This part was already cracked and taped/repaired. I see that it's NLA. The reason I believe this is that the engine basically shuts down to almost no power, no response, no boost for a few seconds then comes back fine. I believe the noise I'm hearing is that hose collapsing shutting the engine off basically like the shutoff butterfly.
So I'm trying to figure out if I should just replace that whole piping from air-box to turbo inlet, or just that section? I like the factory look over silicon, but black hose shouldn't be too bad.
So @Gun Runner 5 I guess I can say now that the OEM snorkel top flows less air than the ram style as evident by that turbo trying to suck that intake pipe down.
I may do a quick test and pull the intake hose to have free-flow to turbo and see what happens there.
All this loss of power on ~14psi boost usually means boost leak, however I don't think it's a boost leak anymore.
I think my intake hose is collapsing. Part 17884. This part was already cracked and taped/repaired. I see that it's NLA. The reason I believe this is that the engine basically shuts down to almost no power, no response, no boost for a few seconds then comes back fine. I believe the noise I'm hearing is that hose collapsing shutting the engine off basically like the shutoff butterfly.
So I'm trying to figure out if I should just replace that whole piping from air-box to turbo inlet, or just that section? I like the factory look over silicon, but black hose shouldn't be too bad.
So @Gun Runner 5 I guess I can say now that the OEM snorkel top flows less air than the ram style as evident by that turbo trying to suck that intake pipe down.
I may do a quick test and pull the intake hose to have free-flow to turbo and see what happens there.
PabloCruise
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Or we could pull the hood, strap you to the fender and go do some wide open runs for you to get a visual...
I had similar happening on my turbo 2H. I had a silicone 90degree elbow just before the turbo inlet and it was collapsing this elbow. After some reading I found out that silicone hoses don’t work for suction, only for pressure. I found a rubber ish ribbed 90 degree elbow and that solved the problem. Maybe there are silicone hoses specifically for suction but I didn’t look.
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #695
Well, I didn't have a visual, but I do have test results! I pulled that intake of the air cleaner and basically have open to the turbo. Just for testing, as I don't need a bunch of crap flying into the turbo.
Turbo whistle, yay! Full boost to 15, no cutting out. Suffice to say, I think that fully cracked hose was collapsing with the new snorkel head.
Not the best quality, but I was trying to concentrate on driving and holding the phone. Not a full on mashing/race event, but just trying to get the boost to go on/off max.
Turbo whistle, yay! Full boost to 15, no cutting out. Suffice to say, I think that fully cracked hose was collapsing with the new snorkel head.
Not the best quality, but I was trying to concentrate on driving and holding the phone. Not a full on mashing/race event, but just trying to get the boost to go on/off max.
My BJ came with a 4" cone filter attached to the turbo. I quickly got rid of that and installed the stock airbox that (luckily) came in the parts pile with the truck.
I had to go to NAPA and get a piece of tubing to run from the air filter to the turbo housing. It is a straight shot- I think I turned the airbox top a bit. I poked a hole in the hose for the vacuum line. Works great- albeit not stock. All in like 30-40 bucks. The black rubber is way cheaper than silicon. I used a bandsaw to cut it then some medical shears to trim the edges to fit nicely. Just make sure to get extra hosing and give yourself room for error.
I had to go to NAPA and get a piece of tubing to run from the air filter to the turbo housing. It is a straight shot- I think I turned the airbox top a bit. I poked a hole in the hose for the vacuum line. Works great- albeit not stock. All in like 30-40 bucks. The black rubber is way cheaper than silicon. I used a bandsaw to cut it then some medical shears to trim the edges to fit nicely. Just make sure to get extra hosing and give yourself room for error.
I did not. I can pull it out a snap a pic tho. The vacuum hose end had a nipple fitting on it already (probably from PO if thats not a stock item) so I drilled a small hole and kinda just made it fit. I don't have the part number but it was a straight piece- I wanna say they came in either 18" or 24" lengths. I measured the ID of the fitting which was the same for both my airbox and turbo.
Basically just clapped it together- probably not "proper" by many people's standards but it does the job.
FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #699
Started pulling the tranny tonight. In about 2 hours of non-Chalant work I pulled driveshafts, starter, clutch slave, drained fluids, stick shifters, electrical, boots, carpet back and loosened all bellhousing bolts.
i would have got the whole thing dropped but I don’t have a deep socket for the crossmember mount here at the place I’m at away from home. I’ll stop by harbor freight and pickup a cheap set.
as for holding the rear of the engine up, anyone use a board across the fenders with a tie strap to the engine lift mounts?
Would be nice to have my overhead lift, but alas I’m not in my shop.
i would have got the whole thing dropped but I don’t have a deep socket for the crossmember mount here at the place I’m at away from home. I’ll stop by harbor freight and pickup a cheap set.
as for holding the rear of the engine up, anyone use a board across the fenders with a tie strap to the engine lift mounts?
Would be nice to have my overhead lift, but alas I’m not in my shop.
2fpower
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Well, similar but not the same, I used a ratchet strap around the frame on both sides, slung under the tranny -- to hold up my tranny when I pulled the engine out. Maybe that would work to hold the rear of the engine up for you.
