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as dan is saying, that’s the info I’ve been getting. Long gone are Those shafts. Used seems the only option.
Inwill say the new seals go on easier test fitting so that gives me hope with the speedi sleeve. It’s possible I messed up that NOK seal trying to get it to fit. ive got gaskets on the way so I’ll seal it up next week and stab it back in.That should be fun...
other thoughts,10k miles ago this was clean. I’m assuming since my tcase vent was clogged, it was pushing oil everywhere. when the bad tcase/tranny seal filled up the tcase enough and drained the tranny, it quit spitting oil out the H55f shifter and pushed out the front input seal.
Just a theory. There’s not a lot of oil and it wipes off easy which makes me think it wasn’t happening a long time.
View attachment 2493710
So got the seals in. Not much difference at all. They aren't a true double lipped seal, I doubt those exist for this size according to the parts guy. He couldn't find any. I don't think they will be offset enough to move off of the groove if I remove the speedi sleev.
This is the direct replacement seal. 48mm x 32mm x 7mm. You can see the main seal lip is different. It's offset about .70mm to the best I can measure.
I'm leaning towards putting the new seal on with the speedi-sleeve and running with it. If it blows again I'll just just rebuild the whole tranny. Time/tools/shop area isn't the best and could potentially change any week now to moving and not having a space. I got the tranny pulled in 3 hours away from home, it's not terrible, but not a fun job. Rebuilding the tranny will take me quite a while learning I bet.
thoughts?
Keeping the speedi sleeve and going for regular size seal. These different brand seals seem to fit the speedi sleeve better, not near as tight as the NOK brand. hopefully this will fix for awhile as I don’t really want to rebuild a good working H55f.What is the verdict here? Keep the speedi-sleeve and go with a new seal and see how things go?
Original size seal? Or the taller one?
Stabbed it back in last night.
I only need to hook up drive lines, fill with oil, put shifter on and drive.
This is the seal I used. This species of seal, Harwal, is a close relative of the Narwhal...
Time will tell if this holds up like a NOK seal, or if the Narwhal was a good idea or not.
View attachment 2498315
View attachment 2498314
Shockingly, the tranny popped right in. Even that miserable upper starter bolt when in first trythat thing took me an hour the last time. I borrowed the cheapy harbor freight tranny jack and it worked quite well. I also used my ATV jack as it got a little tippy so I didn't want to take any chances. That also helped line it up better and then hold it up so I could put the crossmember back on.
The next step up jack would have been better from harbor freight, but this was free to borrow so I'm not complaining.
All in all, it took about 2.5 leisurely hours to replace the seal and put it back in minus the few steps I need to do to finish.
I hope I don't have to do this again for a while...
Sorry, just got caught up on this. Georg is the first call I would make to look for solutions on a tranny.
Or just Google “tranny solutions”...Sorry, just got caught up on this. Georg is the first call I would make to look for solutions on a tranny.
Just a little highway drive.
@robmobile73 13BT, 33" tires, 5,000' elevation, chuggin down the road. Cruise's along at 65 easily and I didn't have any issues running 70~71 the other weekend for 2 hours on the highway.
@saltycoconuts do you have a measured height of those Kenda Klever tires mounted? I'm guessing compared to the Yokohama muds it probably runs a little smoother and the taller helps with rpms. Now to find some cheap 17's that fit and buy new tires again??? hahaha
I want to like the khaki... but the black seems better suited to your truck.
Black with grey guts, tan with brown guts.