Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (1 Viewer)

[FJBen]

Forgot to say, I ended up adding 4 quarts of oil to the H55F thats how much had transferred to the t-case, filled it and leaked out when that front seal went. That seal was just hard brittle plastic.


In better news,
Today it's been 1.5 years since she first started after the rebuild.
I've driven 11,000 miles.

I'm not sure I want to go down the list of everything I've done since then, but here's a partial list....


Major PM or repairs
T-case rebuild
Front Axle Rebuild
Tie-Rod Ends
Front Brakes/rotors
Rear driveshaft rebuild/ujoints
Front input h55f speedy sleeve

Upgrades
Tires
Koito OEM headlight harness
Shocks
Stereo/amp/speakers/sub
EGT/Boost guage
Dawes device/MBC
Built seat extenders
Bimini/summer top
Rear swing out

Minor Issues
Voltage regulator failed
Intake gasket failed
Adjusted timing
Replaced HVAC controls
Alternator adjustment bracket broke when some bolts backed out

 

[badusmaximus]

I'm happy for you Ben! Thats a pretty big list for moving and all. Also happy for myself since I bought mine with a rebuilt t case as of December 2019. One thing I shouldn't have to worry about.

The manual boost controllers are great! I splurged on a turbosmart one and even then had to mess around with the fittings to make it work in the hose. I think I split the main hose, put adapter barbs on those fittings, and ran a smaller hose to match the MBC barbs. Mounted the MBC on the right inner fender. Works nicely as an altitude compensator.

You have a fibreglass windshield frame correct? I think its about time for me to find a spare..

 

[PabloCruise]

Forgot to say, I ended up adding 4 quarts of oil to the H55F thats how much had transferred to the t-case, filled it and leaked out when that front seal went. That seal was just hard brittle plastic.


In better news,
Today it's been 1.5 years since she first started after the rebuild.
I've driven 11,000 miles.

I'm not sure I want to go down the list of everything I've done since then, but here's a partial list....


Major PM or repairs
T-case rebuild
Front Axle Rebuild
Tie-Rod Ends
Front Brakes/rotors
Rear driveshaft rebuild/ujoints
Front input h55f speedy sleeve

Upgrades
Tires
Koito OEM headlight harness
Shocks
Stereo/amp/speakers/sub
EGT/Boost guage
Dawes device/MBC
Built seat extenders
Bimini/summer top
Rear swing out

Minor Issues
Voltage regulator failed
Intake gasket failed
Adjusted timing
Replaced HVAC controls
Alternator adjustment bracket broke when some bolts backed out



View attachment 2466398

Great picture!
4 quarts needed for the H55?!? She still shifted pretty well...

 

[FJBen]

I'm happy for you Ben! Thats a pretty big list for moving and all. Also happy for myself since I bought mine with a rebuilt t case as of December 2019. One thing I shouldn't have to worry about.

The manual boost controllers are great! I splurged on a turbosmart one and even then had to mess around with the fittings to make it work in the hose. I think I split the main hose, put adapter barbs on those fittings, and ran a smaller hose to match the MBC barbs. Mounted the MBC on the right inner fender. Works nicely as an altitude compensator.

You have a fibreglass windshield frame correct? I think its about time for me to find a spare..

Thanks! Yeah the only thing Ive done during the move is tcase/shocks/driveshaft./boost controller. Everything else was over 1.5 years. I'm way more motivated to drive than work on it

Yes I have an FRP fiberglass windshield frame from these guys out of Australia. FRP – Fiberglass Replacement Panels – Fiberglass Replacement Panels No idea how long its been on my cruiser but it works well.

 

[FJBen]

Great picture!
4 quarts needed for the H55?!? She still shifted pretty well...

Yep to top the H55F off. Yeah she shifted quite well. I believe that seal was so bad fluid must have been pumping backing and fourth quite a bit hence no hearing any noise or issues with the tranny.

 

[FJBen]

Snow Day...well I'm still at work. Drove from Nebraska to Colorado last night in the blizzard.

the Yokohama’s continue to impress.

decided to lock the hubs in.

icy, snowing, cold

warp speed...

 

[FJBen]

Going to pull the front driveshaft again and grease the slip yoke. The shop quoted $360 to rebuild using my u-joints so I don't know if thats normal or high priced. Not sure if I could find used one, probably not.

Wipers suck. Going to pull them out and clean them, maybe the bushings or something.

 

[PabloCruise]

Sounds like you made it!

Glad those Yokohamas are good!

I bet that front drive shaft was annoying with the hubs locked.

Maybe look up your flange pattern - might be same as a really common Cruiser, then you just need to get a used one and have them shorten it for front.

I need to look at the wipers on the 470, they don't return to the park position sometimes...

 

[FJBen]

Pulled the driveshaft in the cold and the vehicle dripping water and snow on me Took the slip apart, cleaned it and threw some Grease on it and slapped it back on not expecting much. I flipped it around, yoke down.
much better! Takes a bit of pushing to get it to move now at the slip and it doesn’t move much at all. I’m calling it good for now. I tested on a road with snow I found and up until 35mph no grrrr sound on Decel. Will have to wait to find a longer stretch of road to test higher speeds.

The wipers I pulled off and sprayed a little lubricant on the base. Put some new cheapo blades on and between the two, much better wipers. I wouldn’t call it excellent, but much faster movement. I should Probabaly pull the cowl and lubricate all parts, but I wasn’t that ambitious considering its 2 degrees out.

 

[badusmaximus]

Pulled the driveshaft in the cold and the vehicle dripping water and snow on me Took the slip apart, cleaned it and threw some Grease on it and slapped it back on not expecting much. I flipped it around, yoke down.
much better! Takes a bit of pushing to get it to move now at the slip and it doesn’t move much at all. I’m calling it good for now. I tested on a road with snow I found and up until 35mph no grrrr sound on Decel. Will have to wait to find a longer stretch of road to test higher speeds.

The wipers I pulled off and sprayed a little lubricant on the base. Put some new cheapo blades on and between the two, much better wipers. I wouldn’t call it excellent, but much faster movement. I should Probabaly pull the cowl and lubricate all parts, but I wasn’t that ambitious considering its 2 degrees out.

This is a massive cold front isn't it?

 

[PabloCruise]

This is a massive cold front isn't it?

Yes, unseasonably cold.
Below zero here this morning @ ~5000'.
This is definitely helping the firefighters dealing with some of the largest fires in state history, but the weather is also impacting their ability to be out and engaging the fire.

 

[PabloCruise]

Pulled the driveshaft in the cold and the vehicle dripping water and snow on me Took the slip apart, cleaned it and threw some Grease on it and slapped it back on not expecting much. I flipped it around, yoke down.
much better! Takes a bit of pushing to get it to move now at the slip and it doesn’t move much at all. I’m calling it good for now. I tested on a road with snow I found and up until 35mph no grrrr sound on Decel. Will have to wait to find a longer stretch of road to test higher speeds.

The wipers I pulled off and sprayed a little lubricant on the base. Put some new cheapo blades on and between the two, much better wipers. I wouldn’t call it excellent, but much faster movement. I should Probabaly pull the cowl and lubricate all parts, but I wasn’t that ambitious considering its 2 degrees out.

If there is no movement at the slip (ie, can't compress and shorten) be careful. You don't want front suspension articulation putting stress on the t-case because the front shaft can no longer shorten.

 

[FJBen]

If there is no movement at the slip (ie, can't compress and shorten) be careful. You don't want front suspension articulation putting stress on the t-case because the front shaft can no longer shorten.

Oh no it moves quite nice now, being able to slide with the grease. I mean there is nowhere near as much side/side play in that slip yoke like there was before. It's solid that way. It's still going to need new u-joints at some point. These don't feel awful, but might as well fix them.

 

[PabloCruise]

I wonder if a 62 runs the same flanges?

Find a rear and shorten it...

 

[FJBen]

Arts and crafts night...

I’ve been missing these fender skirts and it lets dirt, water, mud and snow all over my pretty 13BT.
I really wanted to get a set from trail Tailor, and Probabaly will if these don’t work out, but t-case/driveshafts took some budget for awhile.

I saw someone else on mud do this so I need to give them credit when I find the thread again.

went to Home Depot to get “runner”. It’s 2mm 26" Wide. Comes on a roll, number 1003-092-882. $3.47 per linear foot.
I got a little over 3 linear feet. Pretty flexible rubber, pretty tough.

then I created a pattern using CAD (cardboard aided drafting), traced it and cut it. High-tech.

Local Toyota dealer wanted .75 per clip! And they didn’t have any in stock. So I went to Lowe’s and found these. GM push clips. They fit snug but good.

They look alright, definitely not OEM or trail tailor good, but for now they should work and keep clean. They aren’t fully pushed in as I need to replace the front shocks hopefully this week.

But for about $16.00 and a couple hours, I can’t complain.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Nice. I honestly don’t think I paid more than that per side for OEM so 2x but I could be underestimating or under remembering.

 

[OGBeno]

Going to pull the front driveshaft again and grease the slip yoke. The shop quoted $360 to rebuild using my u-joints so I don't know if thats normal or high priced. Not sure if I could find used one, probably not.

Wipers suck. Going to pull them out and clean them, maybe the bushings or something.

New OEM drive shaft is still available from your local Toyota dealership for a very reasonable price.

 

[FJBen]

Nice. I honestly don’t think I paid more than that per side for OEM so 2x but I could be underestimating or under remembering.

Looks like they are $34.75 per side plus shipping from partsouq which probably puts you at $100 all said and done, same as trail tailors. low hanging fruit, cheap experiment and some free time lol.

 

[FJBen]

New OEM drive shaft is still available from your local Toyota dealership for a very reasonable price.

That is some interesting and great info. My local dealer wants $573 for that, next nearest dealer $555. Toyota list is showing $464. Lets just say some other dealers a little further away are going for considerably less. Thats quite the deal considering how much it would be to just rebuild mine.

Thanks for that info!

 

[FJBen]

Put the front shocks on. Went with heavier valving in the front, 360/80. I went with 360/80 as eventually I'll have a winch and more weight up there.

33-230368 26.38″ EXTENDED, 16.01″

Out of all 4 shocks on this rig, 1 of them was semi working, the rest were junk. The ride is much improved over large and jarring bumps. Also seems to have helped the sway on turns as well.