Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build...

[LDowney]

so if it's not one thing, it's another. I talked to John (gofast) when I first got my cruiser as well as Alberto about my clutch suction noise and they helped me figure out it was my clutch booster. I've had the cruiser for a while with the issue hoping to be able to not have to dump more money into it, but it is making more noise (suction) and I want to get it fixed before it completely takes a s*** on me.

can anyone recommend if it should just be rebuilt or if I need to replace the entire booster? Toyodiy shouws part numbers for internals and the entire booster. Also, what is the purpose of the clutch booster can it be possibly eliminated (dumb question I know), I have never seen one on my pick-up and other manual vehicles.

I hope after this and my injector seals being replaced I will be good for a while..............

cheers.

The booster can be easily rebuilt, had mine rebuilt locally for about $200. Before that I tried a chinese replacement, did not last long. They are reasonably easy to remove not that big deal.

Or they can be eliminated, would need a few parts and I am not sure the firewall pattern is the same, just fit a manual setup from a lower spec model. Need the master cylinder and possibly some rod from the pedal to cylinder, toyo diy should show the differences.

Any brake shop should be able to rebuild it easily.

I will be installing my re-built booster tomorrow from my BJ70. I had it re-built thru Mark's Offroad in Burbank, CA. He was able to rebuild my brake booster and clutch booster.

Also FYI, while was at my local NAPA over the weekend, the manager told me that they have a booster re-build service too. I don't know if all NAPA's offer this, but a local option is always good to have.

 

[crushers]

a bit of a pain but do the test, if it is leaking then either rebuilt or remove. the amount of pressure to activate is nothing really ... the girly trucks needed the booster.
best to get the proper master and rod to pedal and spring ... contact Akella, he will be able to help out. it won't cost much to convert over
but then neither does the rebuild.

 

[NGray]

Good to know Hulsty, thanks.

Thanks LDowney. Are you RHD or LHD?

I'll shoot him an e-mail once I have checked if it is leaking. If is definitely making a slurping noise, always has. I'll probably end up going with whatever is cheaper...whether it is removing or rebuilding.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

[cruiserdan]

My JDM BJ74 is not boosted (at least I have not noticed a booster on the firewall. I will confirm that tonight) and the clutch feels like, well, a clutch. the pedal effort is about the same as the clutch in my SRT8 Challenger. If its "heavy" I must just be acustomed to it.


EDIT......I haven't seen a booster because it is inside the cab.....


If I pump the pedal a couple times with the engine off the pedal effort does increase but it is not horrible.

 

[crushers]

nah, manual is not "heavy". i like either, my 75 is manual, my PZJ70 is assisted (external) ...

 

[NGray]

apparently you have to remove some bolts and what not.

if anyone needs a reference...post by urbancarrot a few years ago. https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/288478-bj74-clutch-booster-repair.html

 

[LDowney]

Thanks LDowney. Are you RHD or LHD?

My BJ70 is LHD (Canadian spec truck). I would expect the internal parts of the booster to be the same for LHD or RHD.

 

[NGray]

Thanks LDowney.

So a concerned citizen today thought I had my high beams on and decided he would flash me to inform me I was blasting him with too much light....I think he was a bit surprised when I returned the favour.

In other news I found out the Denso VE injection pump was made for lots of other vehicles, older VW's being one of them and was able to source a kit for $44 to re-do all the seals. Sadly when I went to pick it up the gentleman only accepted cash or cheque, neither which I had. The guy who will be working on the pump for me is going to pick it up on Thursday instead for me and I'll make sure to snap a photo of the box and part # for anyone who may need a seal rebuild kit one day.

 

[pablosubo]

You DO NOT want to remove the clutch booster.

Been driving my BJ70 withouth it for 3 years. Right now I got one from a lux spec bj70.
Its like day and night!

While driving on road it does not affect you so much, if you go either rockcrawling, or into heavy traffic, the difference is enormous.
After some hours of driving on this conditions without the booster, my leg started to really hurt, and when going to sleep at night, I felt my leg shaking for all the effort of the day.

I bought a BJ70 just to take the clutck booster, power steering and the h55 gearbox.

BTH, nice post. I really enjoyed a lot you "trip" along with you rig. Once you get confident with it, you will love it. REgards!
Pablo

 

[crushers]

disagree
no different than driving a 40 series with manual clutch

 

[sadam_husain]

you don't know about a heavy clutch until you use a 1" bore master cylinder we put one on my FJ75 to get enough fluid displacement to separate the twin plate clutch there a considerable amount of extra force required to displace fluid with a larger diameter bore you almost need both feet to push the clutch pedal in, I'm going to try going back to a stock master cylinder to see if I can get enough displacement to separate the clutch when I get around to it

 

[Gun Runner 5]

This conversation is making me like my auto gearbox more and more.

 

[crushers]

we are talking a stock clutch in a 3B, if my little wife can shift a BJ42 off road in the mountains
with no complaints or concerns than a man should be able to with ease ... unless he is a sissy boy, i guess.

side point:
never tried a 1" bore clutch master, never heard of one.
curious, why does a clutch system need an oversized master bore? you have fluid moving the release bearing the same distance whether stock clutch or HD killer "when engaged it is like i am welding the tranny to the flywheel" clutch plate and disc. so why the overkill on the cylinder?

 

[Chester]

we are talking a stock clutch in a 3B, if my little wife can shift a BJ42 off road in the mountains
with no complaints or concerns than a man should be able to with ease ... unless he is a sissy boy, i guess.

side point:
never tried a 1" bore clutch master, never heard of one.
curious, why does a clutch system need an oversized master bore? you have fluid moving the release bearing the same distance whether stock clutch or HD killer "when engaged it is like i am welding the tranny to the flywheel" clutch plate and disc. so why the overkill on the cylinder?

can we extrapolate that logic to the brakes? I'm not a girly guy, but I'm no gator stomper either, so if I can push the brake peddle and lock the pads to the rotor, then all the power assist or extra pressure in the world will just make it easier to shatter pads, it won't effect stopping distance, does that sound right?

 

[Gun Runner 5]

can we extrapolate that logic to the brakes? I'm not a girly guy, but I'm no gator stomper either, so if I can push the brake peddle and lock the pads to the rotor, then all the power assist or extra pressure in the world will just make it easier to shatter pads, it won't effect stopping distance, does that sound right?

I had to "Google" the word "extrapolate" ..............

a : to project, extend, or expand (known data or experience) into an area not known or experienced so as to arrive at a usually conjectural knowledge of the unknown area <extrapolates present trends to construct an image of the future>

Sorry ...... It's just not a word you often hear in Southern Georgia.

 

[Chester]

sorry 'bout that. I'm left handed too, but I'm right hand xpert cert. small bore auto and repeater 'cause they just don't make a right side or top eject chute for most austrian or russians. that's what happens to left hand in a right hand world, the spent cartridge hit's them in the eye and they step out in front of a truck, = shortened life span.
I think that's what would happen with peddles on the right too.

 

[crushers]

power brakes make the application of braking easier over manual brakes.
same principle to the clutch, the throw of the cylinder rod is what make the whole system work. a power assist clutch just makes it easier to "sit at a stop light with the clutch engaged" the whole time vrs "get your bloody foot off the clutch when sitting at a light"

i wonder how many release bearings and clutch jobs *(since you usually replace the clutch while you are in there)* have been because the idiot driver sat with the clutch engaged due to the EASE of holding the pedal down??

 

[sadam_husain]

side point:
never tried a 1" bore clutch master, never heard of one.
curious, why does a clutch system need an oversized master bore? you have fluid moving the release bearing the same distance whether stock clutch or HD killer "when engaged it is like i am welding the tranny to the flywheel" clutch plate and disc. so why the overkill on the cylinder?

1" bore master cylinder is an early 40 series (1970 ish) un-boosted brake master cylinder. The extra displacement is to get enough separation for the additional clutch plates.

 

[crushers]

holy s***, that is the first time i have seen such a thing ... thanks for posting.
but
i do not understand the principle behind it. you still only have the front disc to the flywheel for traction

<scratching head>

 

[jb BJ73]

holy s***, that is the first time i have seen such a thing ... thanks for posting. but i do not understand the principle behind it. you still only have the front disc to the flywheel for traction <scratching head>

If it's setup right (can't see properly), then the middle plate should be locked to the flywheel-pressure plate, like truck twin plate setups are. Basically you double the friction surface.