Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build...

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jb BJ73 said:
If it's setup right (can't see properly), then the middle plate should be locked to the flywheel-pressure plate, like truck twin plate setups are. Basically you double the friction surface.
Click to expand...

Yep that's it you can just see the centre plate locking into the flywheel in the bottom of the 1st pic, its made up out of a 2F pressure plate and 2x 2F clutch plates, its a pretty tight fit to get the release bearing in there but it just fits

still cant get my head around all this clutch clamping stuff we put a centreforce clutch in my other cruiser and the guy gave me a dual friction clutch plate with small segmented linings on one side and assured me that would give me better clamping than a standard lining, I guess he's the expert and it definitely clamps up tight but still doesn't sound right that less surface area would give me more clamping

sorry for the thread jack with all my clutch stuff

clutch2.webp


clutch2b.webp
 
sorry, i still can not see how it works ... mind fart.
flywheel/first disc/secondary flywheel/second disc
if the first flywheel is bolted to the engine
then the first disc (same as factory)
then the second flywheel is attached to the engine how? a special splined surface to the original flywheel? bolted to the crank? or it floats between the two discs?
if bolted to the crank then it doesn't move and the front disc is irrelevant.
if splined to the engine then how does the clutch disc attach to the input shaft?
if it floats between the two discs then the front disc is the only one that is actually working and the rest is for show.

anyone have a schematic of this layout?
 
crushers said:
sorry, i still can not see how it works ... mind fart.
flywheel/first disc/secondary flywheel/second disc
if the first flywheel is bolted to the engine
then the first disc (same as factory)
then the second flywheel is attached to the engine how? a special splined surface to the original flywheel? bolted to the crank? or it floats between the two discs?
if bolted to the crank then it doesn't move and the front disc is irrelevant.
if splined to the engine then how does the clutch disc attach to the input shaft?
if it floats between the two discs then the front disc is the only one that is actually working and the rest is for show.

anyone have a schematic of this layout?
Click to expand...

Over thinking it, that picture is worth 1000 words. :)
 
Cody, agreed.
then again, you look at the amount of material on the two disc compared to a stock disc ...
i can see the clamping force would have to be tremendous, picture HUGE leg muscle, so power assist would be a serious advantage here.
but
wouldn't you end up with the same "traction" using a stock idea with better material and a stronger pressure plate?

just curious.
 
yep just like the pic jb BJ73 posted but a home made version, the centre plate (or flywheel) is locked into the main flywheel and pressure plate but can float backwards and forwards to allow the clutch to release and engage, clamping pressure remains the same coz its just a standard 2F pressure plate but the clamping pressure is applied across twice as much surface area. The pressure plate still takes the same effort to release the clutch as if it was a standard 2F clutch but because of the 1" bore master cylinder we put in for the extra fluid displacement to separate the extra plates it makes it a very heavy leg breaking clutch. A couple of my mates down here made the clutch for me, they started making them 25-30 years ago when they started putting chev's into their 40 series cruisers and had problems with more HP, big tyres and clamping pressure with standard chev clutches compounded by the unavailability and difficulty of sourcing performance parts out here... that combined with their principle that you don't buy anything you build it :idea:

with relaxed import restrictions and the ease of global credit card buying its easy to get anything from anywhere in the world now other than the long wait for freight but they still wanted to make the twin plate clutch for my truck, we put a 6.0l vortec LQ4 engine in it so it needed something with strong clamping, I've used it for towing my other cruiser on a trailer a bit lately and the clutch is rock solid you'll stall the truck before theres and sign of clutch slip :)
 
injector pump reseal kit

Picking up the cruiser tomorrow. Leak has been fixed with the top seals being re-done on the injector pump. He adjusted the timing a bit as well and says he got a bit more power for me. The clutch booster is holding suction, so still haven't figured out why it makes a suction noise. U-Joints are good as well.

I will be posting these photos up in diesel section as well, but for reference, if anyone needs a seal rebuild kit for a rotary 3b II or 3b (I assume the pump is the same) here you go.

photo 1.webp


photo 2.webp
 
more power is from a snail to a slug
oh wait, yours is turbo'd so from a sea turtle to a snapper.
 
crushers said:
more power is from a snail to a slug
oh wait, yours is turbo'd so from a sea turtle to a snapper.
Click to expand...

Before the timing belt adjustment .........
0-60 ........possible under certain conditions ( downhill, tailwind, etc. )

After the timing belt adjustment ...........
0-60 ........possible under certain conditions ( tailwind no longer required )
 
Cruiser is back and running great. Originally the fuel was turned way too far up and they truck would not start or idle properly, that being said the short time I took it around the block and shop was pretty fun with all the extra power. The truck was moving pretty bloody quickly and pushing nearly 15psi.

Anyways, took a couple more days but fuel was backed off to stock...idle and throttle arm were all re-adjusted and back to running great. Everything else checked out and the guy who did the work felt the truck was in excellent condition mechanically and body wise. Sitting at around 10-11psi all out. After I put a tank of gas through it I will adjust to try and get around 12-13psi. Come the new year he is going to help me with the horrible electrical system and taps.

No leaks anymore and he informed me that kit I posted up worked perfectly.
 
gas ... really??
<grin>

you don't need to crank the fuel much on the 3B II to see an increase in performance with a turbo.
too much and you get to see black smoke, decreased fuel milage, increased EGTs.

<now, if you were to add a PI kit to that truck ... damn boy, you would be having fun>
 
a few years back i played with Propane Injection system that used boost pressure to activate the flow.
it was like adding a second turbo to the engine ... too much fun.

what i liked about the kit i used was the flow of the propane was gradual instead of a dump of fuel. made for a steady push back in the seat as it came on and way less stress on the engine.
 
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