Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build...

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My 2L-TE (LJ78) had similar symptoms in cool weather. A 2nd glow cycle always corrected the issue.
 
Fuel leak

Where exactly is that fuel leak ? On the suction side or pressure side of the fuel pump? If its on the suction side, that could be the problem- it can suck air without actually leaking fuel.

I know some have tested this by modding a fuel cap with a pressure fitting, and pressurizing the tank and lines up to the fuel pump. Any leaks should reveal themselves. I dont really know much about this though.
 
Hand throttle. Useful for getting the truck to warm up a bit faster on cool mornings.

I had a similar sputtering/ rough starting issue on my cruiser. I replaced all the old soft fuel lines and found a leak in the line that goes from the lift pump to the filter. Replaced it and still had some issues. Found out my lift pump was bad, replaced it and now she starts about as well as a truck with way overdue injectors should.
 
usually prepump, being a 3B II engine the cap of the fuel filter housing has been know to hairline crack allowing spontaneous and random air leakage. you won't see fluid coming out (usually).
 
appreciate all the advice...lots to try and trouble shoot Friday.

Today was one of the coldest mornings we've had in a while and had an issue again. This time started then hard a hard time even running at all then stalled, did it again....Then the third time I turned the throttle up a bit, popped the hood and pumped the fuel filter pump and it cleared up within a couple seconds and was perfect. Had to make a couple stops today and every time started up without an issue. I'm wondering if it is a fuel and cold engine issue....

bj73_69.webp
 
it only takes a tiny leak to cause an issue. the "cold" causes things to shrink ... think swimming in a cold lake ... so what might not be an issue when warm could raise it's ugly head when cold.
 
I hope you get things sorted out, I think Rojo has been starting a little rough for me now that it has gotten colder. Tonight I think we are at 28 , that is pretty cold for us south eastern folks. I went out to start up and warm up Rojo, glowed twice , rough start , little smoke, then ran like a champ. i have been lazy the past few mornings and opted for the heated seats of the 100s.
 
hummm, i have had 13BTs, 3B,3B II start at -30C without being plugged in... so what is the problem
take each glow plug out, gently lock in a vise where the wrench goes on.
put the negative of the jumper cables to the vise and the positive to the end where the tiny nut goes on.
hold till bright orange, count the seconds till this happens.
when removing remember the plug is going to bitchin hot so use pliers and do not set on anything flamable.

if all the glow plugs are good then test the current that is getting to the busbar.

if that is good then the fuel system will be at fault

start cheap and work up
 
I'm sure this is a completely idiotic question, but how long should it take to glow doing the vice method?

Edit. Should you be hitting them with 12v or 24v? I would assume 24v but I usually assume things that don't matter.

Can't thank you all enough.
 
your truck is 24V so you need a 24V feed.
how long depends on the glow plug installed. in most cases 10-15 sec, i have seen longer, i have seen shorter but all 4 should take roughly the same time.
 
so I had it in today and like everyone else he figured on here my sporadic issues are with fuel starvation and air getting into the injector pump from where it is leaking.

They found the leak which almost stops once heated up and figures I should replace all the seals/gaskets. He informed me you can usually get kits to replace all the seals for around $40-50 and once I get that he will replace them for me. So, does anyone know if these kits are still available to replace the seals?

uploaded is the injector pump for my cruiser.

In other news the shop owner and his staff loved the Cruiser. I was offered two trucks as a trade by the one mechanic.

:beer:

diag_AVmtPP.webp
 

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