Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (1 Viewer)

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Yes I did. But it says to adjust it after the temp reaches 160.

But I had to turn the screw out before it reached 160, because it was idling at 2200.
The adapter plate needs gasket sealer. Any exhaust or intake leaks will give false readings to the CPU. My first leak was that I forgot to plug the hole in the intake between the TB and #6 cylinder. The next was caused by header flange being thicker than the intake flange. The Ramflex gasket was ruined. I replaced it with Feldpro and cut C shaped washers to bring the manifolds flush. Besides my fumbling initial attempts, the Sniper had a faulty fuel pressure regulator sending fuel splashing out of the TB. Because of excess fuel, CPU ordered more air. After getting that squared away, I discovered I had a faulty HEI that was arcing back to the distributor shaft. It took a lot of time to sort it all out, but in the end, I learned a lot.
You need manifold vac to the brake booster.
You need ported vac to advance the distributor.
Get it running well then you can run vac to the charcoal canister and PCV.
 
I have been running the Sniper EFI with the stock Dizzy(no recurve), vac on the secondary and was wondering what the recommended timing would be as well as plug gap. I am noticing a bit of pinging and lower power on hills.
 
So I kept my factory hard lines in tack and that made it very easy for the return line. Coming off of the in tank pump I ran the 5/16 rubber fuel lines to the send and return factory hard lines. Under the hood I ran rubber 5/16 fuel lines off the factory hard lines and routed it in the exact location as the factory fuel lines under the hood. Even use the same plastic line holder sitting on the charcoal canister bracket. When I say I took factory route. I did all the way, I piped it up and around the valve cover etc. For the charcoal canister I ditched the entire factory setup hard line in frame include. I am running the GM canister that I have one side running to the hard line that goes to the tank via vacuum hose and then I ran vacuum hose to the hard line on the fire wall that runs to Driver side engine bay where the factory canister line is ran. Then I ran that to one of the vacuum ports on the Sniper. I've read that they need ported vacuum to operate, but my ported vacuum is ran to the Dizzy so I just hooked into vacuum and it seems to be working fine. Not pressure on tank and no leaks. I will try to get some pictures posted later tonight.
Gathering parts and planning for a Sniper install. I've read the Sniper install manual and it states 3/8" supply to the EFI... You used the factory lines all the way. I'm assuming that since our engines do not have the HP that the sniper is rated for, the 3/8" line is not required and 5/16" is sufficient?

I am also planning on running a Hyperfuel tight fit in tank pump with a Holley filter regulator close to the fuel tank to simplify the fuel line routing. I saw @FJ60Cam mentioned going this route and I like the idea of one fuel line running to the EFI.
 
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Gathering parts and planning for a Sniper install. I've read the Sniper install manual and it states 3/8" supply to the EFI... You used the factory lines all the way. I'm assuming that since our engines do not have the HP that the sniper is rated for, the 3/8" line is not required and 5/16" is sufficient?

I am also planning on running a Hyperfuel tight fit in tank pump with a Holley filter regulator close to the fuel tank to simplify the fuel line routing. I saw @FJ60Cam mentioned going this route and I like the idea of one fuel line running to the EFI.

I have been running mine for a year on the 5/16 lines with no issue. I am running an inline Walboro pump with the stock supply and return lines and am happy so far. The pump is not too loud but can be heard. I reccomend putting a fuel gauge inline just before the Sniper so you know you are good on pressure.
 
I have been running mine for a year on the 5/16 lines with no issue. I am running an inline Walboro pump with the stock supply and return lines and am happy so far. The pump is not too loud but can be heard. I reccomend putting a fuel gauge inline just before the Sniper so you know you are good on pressure.
I found a screen that tells pressure on the readout.
 
I found a screen that tells pressure on the readout.

Without a pressure gage, that number is going to be a math output. Better than nothing, but it's open to too many variables to be relied upon.

Sniper does, however, have provisions to add your own fuel pressure sensor. You'll need to calibrate the pressure to the sensed voltage, but it's a solid feature. I've wondered why Holley didn't include this as part of their master kit considering how sensitive the system has shown to be to fuel pressure.
 
Without a pressure gage, that number is going to be a math output. Better than nothing, but it's open to too many variables to be relied upon.

Sniper does, however, have provisions to add your own fuel pressure sensor. You'll need to calibrate the pressure to the sensed voltage, but it's a solid feature. I've wondered why Holley didn't include this as part of their master kit considering how sensitive the system has shown to be to fuel pressure.

I prefer a good old Analog pressure guage. I think it is more reliable. But that's my opinion and we all know the saying...
 
I prefer a good old Analog pressure guage. I think it is more reliable. But that's my opinion and we all know the saying...

I generally agree. The exception being that I'm not a fan of mechanical gages in car interiors. One of those little hoses fails and it's a real problem.

High quality sensors can be had for similar money as the mech units and they tie in so well to Sniper's system. It's hard to pass up.
 
I have been putting in line fuel pressure gauges in until I found that flow meter in the Sniper.

A little interesting bit. It was spiking higher pressures during a bad fuel filter event I was having the other day.
AFR started blinking red during acceleration and I toggled to the fuel pressure page and it would go from the Normal 60-70# to 125#

Once I added a new filter it stopped the AFR spikes and the pressures leveled out

It would seem logically that the pressure would go down with a clogged filter but nope.
 
I bet that's an artifact of the math. I bet a log taken during that time would've shown an interaction between injector flow rate / on-time and the indicated fuel pressure.
 
I have been putting in line fuel pressure gauges in until I found that flow meter in the Sniper.

A little interesting bit. It was spiking higher pressures during a bad fuel filter event I was having the other day.
AFR started blinking red during acceleration and I toggled to the fuel pressure page and it would go from the Normal 60-70# to 125#

Once I added a new filter it stopped the AFR spikes and the pressures leveled out

It would seem logically that the pressure would go down with a clogged filter but nope.
Does the 'puter allow you to create a customized "dashboard" or gauge display? The next step would be to have Bluetooth connectivity and an app...
 
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I generally agree. The exception being that I'm not a fan of mechanical gages in car interiors. One of those little hoses fails and it's a real problem.

High quality sensors can be had for similar money as the mech units and they tie in so well to Sniper's system. It's hard to pass up.

I do not have the pressure guage in the cab. It is at the Sniper. I have it for troubleshooting if it isn't running right etc...
 
Sniper + DUI timing set at?? Thanks
 
Try 10° BTDC. Listen for pinging under load. You may be able to go as much as 12° at your elevation. I wouldn't run over 87 octane in the mountains. Not enough air up there.
Too much advance can burn a hole in a piston or takeout part of your head gasket. I'd make sure the valve lash is good before setting timing.
 
Hello fellow Sniper EFI users, thanks to all for the info posted here it has been a great tool.

I am having a problem with a recently installed unit (2F) where the truck is super lean on cold start, IAC @ 100%. I have to hold it at 1500rpm just so it will run and not stall. After abouit a minute or two of that it will stay running. Once warm it runs totally fine.

Verified throttle blade settings multiple times (2-7%)
I've tried adjusting fuel prime from 150-200%
enriched the fuel table at cold temps
played with different IAC settings

Nothing really seems to make a difference... I'm scratching my head over here!

Thoughts?
 
Hello fellow Sniper EFI users, thanks to all for the info posted here it has been a great tool.

I am having a problem with a recently installed unit (2F) where the truck is super lean on cold start, IAC @ 100%. I have to hold it at 1500rpm just so it will run and not stall. After abouit a minute or two of that it will stay running. Once warm it runs totally fine.

Verified throttle blade settings multiple times (2-7%)
I've tried adjusting fuel prime from 150-200%
enriched the fuel table at cold temps
played with different IAC settings

Nothing really seems to make a difference... I'm scratching my head over here!

Thoughts?
Holley tech support has been very helpful to me.
Have you checked your valve lash?
Where did you mount the temp sensor?
Have you re-ran the wizard?

Mine idles fine on freezing start-up at 850 rpm. It runs best over 170°. Still likes to stall when down shifting to a stop when it's not over 160°.
 

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