Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (3 Viewers)

[Seth S]

Just finished reading through this whole thread and there is a TON of good info here. Thanks for blazing the trail and documenting the ups and downs as well. I have so many posts bookmarked and pictures saved from this thread alone.

Couple questions for @wngrog & @Dustin Messina, since you seem to have the most experience with the Sniper and distributors on 2 distinct 2F engines:
I have a 2F block on a stand waiting for an EFI system. Will an RV or other style grind cam be of any value, since "I've already gone this far"?
I currently run an MSD 6 box and stock ignitor and OEM large cap distributor (not recurved) for ignition, is there a compelling argument to switch to a DUI style dizzy?

im not running a sniper yet but your cam question is arbitrary to the sniper in that the sniper will adapt. So a more aggressive cam will still potentially help with engine performance and the sniper will adapt to the airflow that comes with the cam or bigger valves or headers etc.

 

[wngrog]

Bigger the better....may as well.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Just finished reading through this whole thread and there is a TON of good info here. Thanks for blazing the trail and documenting the ups and downs as well. I have so many posts bookmarked and pictures saved from this thread alone.

Couple questions for @wngrog & @Dustin Messina, since you seem to have the most experience with the Sniper and distributors on 2 distinct 2F engines:
I have a 2F block on a stand waiting for an EFI system. Will an RV or other style grind cam be of any value, since "I've already gone this far"?
I currently run an MSD 6 box and stock ignitor and OEM large cap distributor (not recurved) for ignition, is there a compelling argument to switch to a DUI style dizzy?

I know my truck ran exceptionally well with a Jimc recurved dizzy and igniter. I simply switched to clean up some more of the engine bay, but hind sight I probably would have kept this setup. That being said if you are throwing in a cam and going bigger why not throw a DUI and maximize any power gains????

 

[WSOPgold2012]

It’s actually not had an issue since I chanced vac lines when I came back from the Ozarks. Feels good. Still crap gas mileage compared to @wngrog. Checked today and just over 10 MPG. Nolens clocking over 13 mpg on his built 2f. It’s a land cruiser not concerned with mpg but I am curious if I’m still dumping fuel....

Curious what others with stock 2f and
sniper are getting for MPG??!!

Been a while + when last at cabin (my memory may be slightly off) I was experimenting with 87+85 octane. It ran just as good with either but i was getting better MPG with 87 after a cpl initial great readings with 85. Which i thought was odd. 1st tank i got 11mpg with 85 and 2nd 8 mpg. Think that pretty much ended my expreimenting with 85oct....lol. Believe I ranged 12-14MPG with 87oct Hard to make any real assessment as I wasnt there long, my driving was most often 7500' to 9700' and vice versa (not alotta Highway mileage) Rig has 33s as well.

 

[Seth S]

Been a while + when last at cabin (my memory may be slightly off) I was experimenting with 87+85 octane. It ran just as good with either but i was getting better MPG with 87 after a cpl initial great readings with 85. Which i thought was odd. 1st tank i got 11mpg with 85 and 2nd 8 mpg. Think that pretty much ended my expreimenting with 85oct....lol. Believe I ranged 12-14MPG with 87oct Hard to make any real assessment as I wasnt there long, my driving was most often 7500' to 9700' and vice versa (not alotta Highway mileage) Rig has 33s as well.

You need a data logger that records engine rpm, speed, gps location, and climbing/descending. Then you could get a really accurate picture of your driving scenario. Cruise on the highway at 45-50 mph is probably where you get the highest efficiency with greatest speed vs drag. I got 18 mpg heading East out of Colorado...but that was downhill for like 100+ miles

 

[Tough FJ60]

Good Morning Guy
Could someone explain to me if it is normal that my IAC pos % when i driving go up to 20%?
I set up the IAC pos AT 5% initial
Thanks

 

[Dustin Messina]

Good Morning Guy
Could someone explain to me if it is normal that my IAC pos % when i driving go up to 20%?
I set up the IAC pos AT 5% initial
Thanks

This seems fine mines always been in that area.

 

[wngrog]

Good Morning Guy
Could someone explain to me if it is normal that my IAC pos % when i driving go up to 20%?
I set up the IAC pos AT 5% initial
Thanks

Normal.

 

[EndlessAloha]

wyotovich and I have had some private conversation going on about his cable hook-up. My FiTech/Sniper installation kits come with the brass cable fitting that attaches the throttle cable to the throttle body arm, but a brass bushing is needed to adapt my cable fitting to the larger hole in the throttle body. I normally supply McMaster Carr 5/16" O.D. bushing #6391K114 for this adaption, but evidently the hole in wyotovich's Sniper View attachment 2015422View attachment 2015423View attachment 2015424throttle body arm is only 1/4" I.D., sooooo I have told him to merely drill the hole out from 1/4" to 5/16"

DOWNEY! I NEED THIS KIT FOR MY HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2300!! PLEASE PRIVATE MESSAGE ME!

 

[Downey]

Sent you a private message, thanks.

 

[EndlessAloha]

I’m liking the Holley setup on this hi-po 2F project. I was nervousAF firing up a new engine, even more so with a fuel injection kit (lots of possibilities for mistakes), but the Sniper fired right up. Just needed the timing set to idle smoothly.

I have driven it a little, and it runs great. Have to switch to a header (bad EX manifold) and put the factory air cleaner back on before I can fully evaluate.

View attachment 1822814

Do you have any pictures of how and where all the vacuum lines go? I’m trying to figure out why mine in idling so high. Might have the vacuum lines all mixed up.

 

[MoaByte]

Do you have any pictures of how and where all the vacuum lines go? I’m trying to figure out why mine in idling so high. Might have the vacuum lines all mixed up.

You likely have a vacuum leak.

 

[EndlessAloha]

You likely have a vacuum leak.

Only hose that isn’t connected, is the the one that comes off the valve cover that used to connect to the Weber.
I didn’t plug it either.

 

[MoaByte]

Only hose that isn’t connected, is the the one that comes off the valve cover that used to connect to the Weber.
I didn’t plug it either.

Keep looking.

 

[Dustin Messina]

Do you have any pictures of how and where all the vacuum lines go? I’m trying to figure out why mine in idling so high. Might have the vacuum lines all mixed up.

are you running a sniper or the weber you indicted a few post down?

 

[EndlessAloha]

are you running a sniper or the weber you indicted a few post down?

Running a Holley Sniper.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Have you followed the throttle blade adjustment procedure?

See page 45:

https://documents.holley.com/199r11321.pdf

 

[EndlessAloha]

Have you followed the throttle blade adjustment procedure?

See page 45:

https://documents.holley.com/199r11321.pdf

Yes I did. But it says to adjust it after the temp reaches 160.

But I had to turn the screw out before it reached 160, because it was idling at 2200.

 

[k91]

You have a vacuum leak. Mine did this initially and I was able to correct it mostly but ultimately removed the system entirely because I didn’t like the way it ran. Spray some carb cleaner at the base of the throttle body and see if you have noticeable idle change. That will tell you right away it’s indeed a vacuum leak. I changed out my carb insulator plate and it improved.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Yes I did. But it says to adjust it after the temp reaches 160.

But I had to turn the screw out before it reached 160, because it was idling at 2200.

This is typical. The throttle blades are arbitrarily set during assembly. The hot adjustment is a means of dialing it in for computer control of idle.

If you have the throttle blades closed all of the, then you have a vacuum leak. Air is still coming in from somewhere and the computer will feed it enough fuel to maintain the programmed AFR. The resulting rpm depends on how much air is coming in.

You have a vacuum leak. Mine did this initially and I was able to correct it mostly but ultimately removed the system entirely because I didn’t like the way it ran. Spray some carb cleaner at the base of the throttle body and see if you have noticeable idle change. That will tell you right away it’s indeed a vacuum leak. I changed out my carb insulator plate and it improved.