Build 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup

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MoaByte said:
Holley tech support has been very helpful to me.
Have you checked your valve lash?
Where did you mount the temp sensor?
Have you re-ran the wizard?

Mine idles fine on freezing start-up at 850 rpm. It runs best over 170°. Still likes to stall when down shifting to a stop when it's not over 160°.
Click to expand...

I have not checked valve lash
Temp sensor is mounted in the block in place of the factory drain.
Yes I have re run the wizard.
Also FWIW still on stock dizzy set to 10 deg btdc with new plugs wires cap and rotor

Here are some data logs if someone wants to take a look. At this point it wasn't too bad because I had it running a bit beforehand and it warmed up a little bit.
Right now I'm charging the battery and letting it cool down again to get another data log.

Sniper data logs - Google Drive

drive.google.com drive.google.com

again in this video it was not running lean but still struggled to idle initially.

 
Last edited:
Travis Bickle said:
I have not checked valve lash
Temp sensor is mounted in the block in place of the factory drain.
Yes I have re run the wizard.
Also FWIW still on stock dizzy set to 10 deg btdc with new plugs wires cap and rotor

Here are some data logs if someone wants to take a look. At this point it wasn't too bad because I had it running a bit beforehand and it warmed up a little bit.
Right now I'm charging the battery and letting it cool down again to get another data log.

Sniper data logs - Google Drive

drive.google.com drive.google.com

again in this video it was not running lean but still struggled to idle initially.

Click to expand...


Try opening the idle screw a bit to get the RPMs up. Then wait until your temp is over 160*, and then follow the idle setting procedure in the Holley manual.
 
LimuEmu said:
I have been running the Sniper EFI with the stock Dizzy(no recurve), vac on the secondary and was wondering what the recommended timing would be as well as plug gap. I am noticing a bit of pinging and lower power on hills.
Click to expand...

Same here.
 
Stock dizzy has too quick of an advance curve without the EGR. Many are missing the limiting pin allowing it to over advance. Try backing it off a degree at a time until the pinging stops under load. Or try switching ports on the dizzy's vac ports.

MAP should stay fairly steady at steady idle. If it doesn't, you have engine issues to address. (MAP is a backward reading vaccine gauge)
 
MoaByte said:
Stock dizzy has too quick of an advance curve without the EGR. Many are missing the limiting pin allowing it to over advance. Try backing it off a degree at a time until the pinging stops under load. Or try switching ports on the dizzy's vac ports.

MAP should stay fairly steady at steady idle. If it doesn't, you have engine issues to address. (MAP is a backward reading vaccine gauge)
Click to expand...
Thanks, MAP seems super steady. I will try backing the base timing down a bit and see what happens. The engine runs pretty good it's just at lower RPMs with high load it starts sputtering, once it gets over like 2500RPM it smooths out. I'm suspecting the distributor may be conking out, when the engine sputters the tach signal gets all crazy.
 
Travis Bickle said:
...when the engine sputters the tach signal gets all crazy.
Click to expand...
That may be your problem right there. The EFI needs an accurate tach signal. For example I had a problem with (HEI) grounding through the shaft that caused poltergeist like behavior on the LCD.

A low RPM misfire could be the offending gremlin.
 
MoaByte said:
That may be your problem right there. The EFI needs an accurate tach signal. For example I had a problem with (HEI) grounding through the shaft that caused poltergeist like behavior on the LCD.

A low RPM misfire could be the offending gremlin.
Click to expand...

Had a Performance distributor coil start to go bad on me a couple of years ago. The tach display would jump all over and it ran poorly. Put a new coil on it and it ran normally. If the tach signal is jumping around make sure your connection is good, but you might also test your coil, they do go bad from time to time.
 
Travis Bickle said:
Hello fellow Sniper EFI users, thanks to all for the info posted here it has been a great tool.

I am having a problem with a recently installed unit (2F) where the truck is super lean on cold start, IAC @ 100%. I have to hold it at 1500rpm just so it will run and not stall. After abouit a minute or two of that it will stay running. Once warm it runs totally fine.

Verified throttle blade settings multiple times (2-7%)
I've tried adjusting fuel prime from 150-200%
enriched the fuel table at cold temps
played with different IAC settings

Nothing really seems to make a difference... I'm scratching my head over here!

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

based on things changing on warm-up, i would look at coolant sensor, just in general...not specific to this particular fuel setup.
 
Good deal. 100% = no change, so it usually takes a 50%+ increase on things like & prime to really see a noticeable change.
 
Not much going on in there, T. That's for setting base things like number of cylinders, boosted or NA, etc. It's either right for your engine or it isn't.
 
I Mean For F 60 at 87 oct
Engine Dsp = 256
Target Idle = 800
Cam = Stock
RPM to sniper / ignition type = Coil (-)
I know that but I mean
IAC position = 4% ?
Fuel Primer = 130% ?
Target AFR at Idle = 12.7 ?
Target AFR at cruiser = 14.3 ?
Target AFR at WOT = 13.8 ?
I am not sure about these, one more time thanks
 
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